joseph Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 which one power cab or Hornby elite would members recommend.......... newby to dcc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBAGE Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 NCE Power Cab Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Ron Ron Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 There are several good to decent systems available, but the Elite won't get many recommendations (too clunky to operate). NCE PowerCab is a good (albeit dated in some respects) DCC system and is very well regarded. However it is a starter system and as such it comes with various limitations, including a low power output rating. That may not matter if your requirements do not exceed the PowerCab's capabilities. . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted January 16, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 16, 2017 NCE powercab.... you can always upgrade it to more ampage....Hornby Elite is a toy..... Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Savoyard Posted January 16, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 16, 2017 Another failry new option is the ACE DCC controller from Sig-na Trak a UK supplier. http://gfbdesigns.co.uk/products/321592--ace-dcs2044-35a-dcc-controller.aspx Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnd Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 Will agree about the Ace Sig-naTrak. Well worth a look . If you do decide to go for it buy it with the higher output transformer. For what the extra cost involved is it protects if you require more power in the future. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcaravanner Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 I know NOTHING about dcc I have just got a Hornby Elite and am waiting for the 4amp booster to arrive I will then get a few decoders and gradually start re powering my layout which at present has had ALL wiring removed I know there are some on here who will saying I have selected a poor controller simply because it is not to THEIR requirements but it met mine COST I do hope I can use it as well as I used to operate DC cabs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Why do you need a 4 AMP booster, what size is your layout? You could possibly have not removed the wiring from your analogue layout, as in a lot of scenarios you will be replacing some of what you have removed Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcaravanner Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Why do you need a 4 AMP booster, what size is your layout? You could possibly have not removed the wiring from your analogue layout, as in a lot of scenarios you will be replacing some of what you have removed First the old wiring was a bit of a bodge so needed tidying and now all lighting is LED instead of a mix of GOW and LED The actual layout is three tailchasers one with long inclines and numerous yards and a 2/3rds circuit branchline all in a loft 20 foot long by 12 foot wide and the main reason for changing was the 1 amp Gaugemaster controllers were cutting out far too often on the continuous runs my grandkids like to see ( long trains at scale speeds - not bad brainwashing for 9-18 year olds) Basically a tender powered pacific with 6 coaches was too much after 5-6 circuits the over heat cut out went off AND I have been wanting to go dcc for years just never had the money Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted January 20, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 20, 2017 Basically a tender powered pacific with 6 coaches was too much after 5-6 circuits the over heat cut out went off I might be wrong (I may be mis-understanding the situation), but I would venture to suggest that if that was the case then going DCC isn't really going to solve your problems as most chips don't have maximum current draw levels much above that, less in many cases ( I have always thought the Gaugemaster thermal cutouts were 1.5amp). Drawing more than an amp through overheating indicates that perhaps the locos need looking at otherwise you may just end up blowing decoders all the time as many loco motors won't draw that current level even under stall conditions. Izzy . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAF96 Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Elite comes with a 4-amp power supply as standard, so does your booster unit (if Hornby). You are probably already aware the booster is used to power and seamlessly control a separate electrically isolated track district under repeat dcc signals from the Elite controller, which must be the only one in circuit and only connected to the primary district. The signal and power booster does the rest. For simplicity and reliability of connection use diagram 4 method from the Hornby booster manual. These can be soldered connections rather than push in clips. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcaravanner Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Elite comes with a 4-amp power supply as standard, so does your booster unit (if Hornby). You are probably already aware the booster is used to power and seamlessly control a separate electrically isolated track district under repeat dcc signals from the Elite controller, which must be the only one in circuit and only connected to the primary district. The signal and power booster does the rest. For simplicity and reliability of connection use diagram 4 method from the Hornby booster manual. These can be soldered connections rather than push in clips. Will be soldering connections as I hate those connectors -I'm sure Hornby could come up with something more realistic The controller is not elite but Elink (din't notice my tablet change the spelling) with the Railmaster CD - not yet installed but the Elink is only 1 amp so the booster will help me get a continuous power around all the layout as using the gaugemaster I noticed that some areas had a drop in power so they have been soldered up to ensure conectivity Got some more to finish then can start connecting power upto the bus Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAF96 Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 ELink can use the 4 amp power supply without problem, in fact it can solve some problems. Have you had a browse on the Hornby Railmaster forums - lots of good info there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir TophamHatt Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Check out this thread: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/118773-nce-power-cab-or-prodigy-advance-which-one-to-go-for/ I was going to go for the NCE but I think I decided on the Prodigy Advance after reading through the thread. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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