Water based Acrylics

[Fixair]

I have built 1/72nd Aircraft for many years using enamel paints but I built up a considerable stock of acylics. As a returner to Model Railways I have tried the acrylics and have problems especially in the area of adhesion and masking that I never have with enamels. I have used Mr Hobby 1000 Sufacer as a primer, Humbrol No 1 plus other matt primers. I use Tamiya masking tape and allow all paints to properly cure yet when I remove the tape I get flecks of acrylics peeling off and sometimes it comes off like sheets of clingfilm. I  am ready to launch the whole lot into the bin.

 

Advice most welcome.

 

Ron

[Quarryscapes]

Lightly buff the primer with a fibreglass pencil followed by an old toothbrush to remove the fibreglass dust before painting, and don't handle with bare hands. Masking tape should always be removed before paint is dry. 

[The Johnster]

I use acrylics for everything these days as I model within the living area of the house and will not have paint or brush cleaning smells; also, I like the ease of application and simplicity of brush cleaning.  I have not ever encountered such problems as you describe.  I imagine 1/72 aircraft kits are made of the same sorts of plastic material that most rtr railway models are, and have to say I cannot understand why you are having problems; you are clearly an experienced modeller even if you have been out of the railway game for a while.

 

Are you applying the paint too thick? Acrylics don't cover in the same way as enamels and are less opaque, if that's the right word.  I prefer to water them down by about 30% and apply 2 or 3 coats sparingly to build the surface up; this means the first coat is thin and watery enough to key properly to the model's surface, and subsequent coats will key readily to the first one.  As Quarryscapes says, a primer used on a smooth glossy surface will benefit from roughing up with a fibre pen, but unless I am applying paint to a high gloss surface I generally don't bother with a primer on plastic.  I do, however, wipe the surface to be painted over with a damp cloth soaked in warm water and a little washing up liquid, and try not to handle the surfaces to be painted after that.

 

My advice would be to stick with it, I am sure you will develop a successful method that suits you, and if you can't, revert to enamels the use of which you are comfortable with.  Don't go chucking otherwise good models in the bin; you can always strip them and start again!

[Edwardian]

I have built 1/72nd Aircraft for many years using enamel paints but I built up a considerable stock of acylics. As a returner to Model Railways I have tried the acrylics and have problems especially in the area of adhesion and masking that I never have with enamels. I have used Mr Hobby 1000 Sufacer as a primer, Humbrol No 1 plus other matt primers. I use Tamiya masking tape and allow all paints to properly cure yet when I remove the tape I get flecks of acrylics peeling off and sometimes it comes off like sheets of clingfilm. I  am ready to launch the whole lot into the bin.

 

Advice most welcome.

 

Ron

 

Cheapest here may be best.

 

I undercoat everything, whitemetal and plastic, with Halford's grey spray primer.  It has no problem taking water-based acrylics. 

 

All items below have been undercoated with Halford's grey primer and painted with Citadel, Vallejo or Humbrol water-based acrylics (generally used indiscriminately). 

[lapford34102]

All sound advice so far but you haven't said what make of acrylics

Stu

[Fixair]

All sound advice so far but you haven't said what make of acrylics

Stu

I use Humbrol and Xtracrylics. I have used Halfords Auto Plastic primer and that proved to be a disaster. I used it from the aerosol can but I have read that it is best applied through the airbrush having been decanted but I am not that confident. I thin the acrylic paint sufficiently not to 'pool' and apply evenly with several coats. I have used Tamiya tape since it was first released with no problems even after letting the enamel cure completely. Obviously different paints require different techniques but I am at a loss as to what I am doing wrong. I use an Iwata Eclipse Airbrush. I also find that when trying to put right the blemishes it is really difficult to flat the area off with up to 2000 grit wet and dry. I can never get the paint edge to feather like enamels. I reckon I will wind up with a draw full of unused paints.

[Edwardian]

I use Humbrol and Xtracrylics. I have used Halfords Auto Plastic primer and that proved to be a disaster. I used it from the aerosol can but I have read that it is best applied through the airbrush having been decanted but I am not that confident. I thin the acrylic paint sufficiently not to 'pool' and apply evenly with several coats. I have used Tamiya tape since it was first released with no problems even after letting the enamel cure completely. Obviously different paints require different techniques but I am at a loss as to what I am doing wrong. I use an Iwata Eclipse Airbrush. I also find that when trying to put right the blemishes it is really difficult to flat the area off with up to 2000 grit wet and dry. I can never get the paint edge to feather like enamels. I reckon I will wind up with a draw full of unused paints.

 

I think the Halfords plastic primer might be different from their 'Boggo' primer.  The standard primer you can use for anything. Some have even said it will adhere to brass, i.e. rather than etched primer, but I cannot testify to that.

 

The materials I pictured above were selected because they include white-metal, hard plastic and soft plastic. It is all the same to a can of the Halfords primer.

 

In all the years I have used this, I have never had an issue.

[MikeTrice]

 I have used Halfords Auto Plastic primer and that proved to be a disaster.

In what way?

[57xx]

I think the Halfords plastic primer might be different from their 'Boggo' primer.  The standard primer you can use for anything. Some have even said it will adhere to brass, i.e. rather than etched primer, but I cannot testify to that.

 

It is allegedly, although not sure exactly in what way other than being more expensive. I've always used the regular one too and have painted over it using both enamel and acrylic paints. And yes, it adheres to brass handrails I've put on wagons with no issues. Not tried a full on brass kit yet...

[spenc]

I use plastic car primer which I leave to dry for 24hrs then I use Railmatch and humbrol acrylic paints with no problems.

Steve

[Kris]

 The standard primer you can use for anything. Some have even said it will adhere to brass, i.e. rather than etched primer, but I cannot testify to that.

 

 

It sticks to brass a treat, having used it on loco's, wagons and coaches in a variety of scales. 

[Blackstoat]

Hi

 

Is the acrylic paint lifting from the primer. Or is the whole lot coming off?

 

Andy

[Blackstoat]

... and what exactly are you painting? Plastic kit? Plasticard ? ??

 

Andy

[Nearholmer]

I've also had great success with basic Halfords primer, but another one to consider is Holts duplicolour primer. It has higher build than Halfords, so probably not ideal in smaller scales and on fine detail, but it renders a finer finish and has even better adherence to 'slippery' plastic and to brass, and is good on wood, where it has a very slight grain- filling property. Comes in red oxide as well as grey. Ideal for larger scale wagons etc.

[Gwiwer]

I use Jo Sonja's (which might not be available in the UK) and Railmatch but don't like Humbrol acrylics.  

 

The first two brands I find will grab with, and in many cases without, undercoat and can be successfully thinned and mixed as required.  The Humbrol ones don't seem to share those properties and also don't clean nicely out of some brushes meaning those have to be treated with soap which doesn't always do them much good long term.