Transferring a track plan to the baseboard

[millerhillboy]

I've currently got a pencil drawing (full size) that I produced using string, rulers and cut out point templates. I've basically proven, I think, anyway that the chosen track plan works as a proof of concept.

 

Two questions I have

 

1. Should I draw out the layout using some layout design software to get a more accurate representation of the track plan.

 

2. Whether I have a pencil drawing or a print out from whatever software how do I then transpose thus onto the boards? I feel for me it'd be better to have lines on the boards themselves to aid accurate track laying but I could be wrong with that

[66C]

If you decide to go for option 2, the traditional way is to draw a square grid on the original and then the same grid on the baseboards.  Mark each point where a track centre line crosses the grid on the baseboards by taking the measurements from the original.  Join the "dots" to transfer the drawing.

 

You have not said what type of track, or scale for that matter, and so the choice of software for option 1 would depend on that.  Bear in mind that one big advantage of using some kind of track planning software is that the alignments of track joins and the like will be better than you would be able to do manually.  Mind you, you would still have to print the whole thing out actual size - again that may be a factor in choosing the software to use.

 

Regards.

[Guest]

I think there's a lot to be said for drawing the plan onto the baseboard, but it's something I've never actually done. I prefer to come up with a plan using something like AnyRail and then purchase all the track components and temporarily "lay" the track as this allows for alterations. You can also then get a good idea of the way the final track plan will look. Quite often, I "play" and rearrange things that looked good on-screen but not so good in the flesh. A pot of map tacks from a nearby pound shop is all you need. Pieces can then be lifted and moved at will. Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

[enginelane]

On the WRMS new Stanley layout members used carbon paper under the full size track plan to mark up the position of running rails etc

[hockeyshooter]

I printed my plan from AnyRail 6 at 1:1 onto A4, cut the right and bottom margins off each sheet, then stuck them together with masking tape and to the bare baseboards with SprayMount. This has helped enormously in getting stuff in the right place!

[millerhillboy]

If you decide to go for option 2, the traditional way is to draw a square grid on the original and then the same grid on the baseboards. Mark each point where a track centre line crosses the grid on the baseboards by taking the measurements from the original. Join the "dots" to transfer the drawing.

 

You have not said what type of track, or scale for that matter, and so the choice of software for option 1 would depend on that. Bear in mind that one big advantage of using some kind of track planning software is that the alignments of track joins and the like will be better than you would be able to do manually. Mind you, you would still have to print the whole thing out actual size - again that may be a factor in choosing the software to use.

 

Regards.

I'm hoping it to be a mixture of code 55 peco N scale mixed with finetrax on the scenic side, which I believe can be done with careful height alignment at the interface between the two track types.

 

I belive SCARM has finetrax support, so that's a possibility although I've never actually used it.

 

I like the idea of getting the flow of curves into points correct as I feel that templates and pieces of string was only really good enough for the proof of concept plan.

[Siberian Snooper]

Tape down your drawn track plan onto the baseboard and push a pencil through the paper along your track centrelines at suitable intervals, then remove your track plan and join the dots.

[66C]

One option with Finetrax track and turnouts is to use Templot - the Finetrax turnouts are standard types and match the Templot designs very well.  Templot is excellent for getting really nice smooth transitions curves so worth considering.

 

Peco Code 75 turnouts can be approximated in Templot - if you would like a copy of a Templot file with these let me know.

 

Regards.

[Clearwater]

Is it possible in anyrail to print without borders?

 

David

[imt]

Is it possible in anyrail to print without borders?

 

David

Theoretically yes, but it is a mixture of what Anyrail does as it prepares the print and the printer hardware.  You need to set border less printing up in the printer driver (Print Setup box on the Anyrail printing page.  I must say it has never worked for me, and I have a fairly expensive printer (a Canon MG7550).  I end up with bits being cropped off at the edges.  I did it as per hockeyshooter's advice (post #5) - I found it easier to have an overlapping when sticking the sheets of A4 together.  Anyrail is absolutely exact in my experience.  I just cannot get the hang of border less printing!

[regme]

Hi

 

I went with the print it on paper, tape it down and lay the track over that option.  Down load a free CAD package, or if you access to AutoCAD to draw it up and print it.  You don't have to print it edge to edge just create the sheet size you want with a small overlap so you can tape them all together

 

Enjoy

[Crewlisle]

My layout is 8'6" x 7'6" on three interconnected levels.  What you want to do is ignore any computer planning models, sketch out your theoretical layout that you want, download some Peco point templates, place them where you want them on your available space & move them around as necessary.  Using a couple of lengths of flexible track, see if you can get a smooth curve between your points.  If not, adjust the position of your templates to fit.  As they say in the ship building/repair industry, 'If a curve looks right, it is right.'

 

Peter

[imt]

[]  What you want to do is ignore any computer planning models, sketch out your theoretical layout that you want, download some Peco point templates, place them where you want them on your available space & move them around as necessary.  Using a couple of lengths of flexible track, see if you can get a smooth curve between your points.  []

Peter

 

I met Peter and saw his layout at Alexandra Place recently.  His way obviously works!  He and I are of an age - but I worked in computing all my life so I tend to use technology first.  Technology works too, but you need to do it the way YOU are comfortable with.  Certainly my first layout was done the templates and flexitrack way.  One of the main problems with using computing software is that you tend to find it difficult to make curves flow the way you can by hand and eye.  It can look very rigid if you are not careful.  There is one piece of software that you can use for that - but Templot is complicated to use for a newbie.

[Alcanman]

I think there's a lot to be said for drawing the plan onto the baseboard, but it's something I've never actually done. I prefer to come up with a plan using something like AnyRail and then purchase all the track components and temporarily "lay" the track as this allows for alterations. You can also then get a good idea of the way the final track plan will look. Quite often, I "play" and rearrange things that looked good on-screen but not so good in the flesh. A pot of map tacks from a nearby pound shop is all you need. Pieces can then be lifted and moved at will. Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

wp_009.jpg

This is the exact method I've been using for the last few years, with the exception of using Peco track pins instead of  map tacks. The baseboard is topped with 3mm cork tiles to ensure the pins push in easliy.

 

Anyrail is very simple to use.  Track plan and finished product below

 

 

 

 

[DCB]

This is the exact method I've been using for the last few years, with the exception of using Peco track pins instead of  map tacks. The baseboard is topped with 3mm cork tiles to ensure the pins push in easliy.

 

Anyrail is very simple to use.  Track plan and finished product below

 

 

 

New layout 007.JPG

 

There seems to be an awful lot of kinks in both the drawing and the layout, If you butt templates together or points together you can easily get kinks.  I think you need to work with a straight edge and Mk1 eyeball to get the templates and track aligned correctly.  Personally I don't worry about full size templates I just lay the track straight using a long straight edge, a 24" ruler and file the rail ends up to get even rail gaps.  If the model is pre 1970s straight track should look straight if you sight along it.  For post 1970 it should look like a dogs hind leg. 

 

I do use track planning software but I prefer to do a sketch plan on an A3 sheet  to 1" to 1 ft scale with compass, home made point angle templates, and ruler to get a feel for what is achievable. 

[Alcanman]

There are no kinks. I always ensure smooth transitions and always make a visual check before finally laying track.