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CARROG in 4mm & Ruabon discussion...


coachmann
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Yes, my finger tips ....  :biggrin_mini2:

 

I am pretty thick skinned anyway......One need to be on forums.....but I also have the usual solderers burned finger tips which helps considerably when holding small items like droplight while one edge furthest from the finger is tagged with a spot of solder. The rest of the droplight is then easily soldered while pressing it down with a pointed file. I hope you can visualize this description.

 

95% of my own coach sides have the droplights etched in, but it is not always possible, the LMS Period II D1782 being one such case. I do not mind the time-consuming soldering in of loose droplights when using other manufacturers etchings for convenience. Some Comet sides have etched-in droplights.

 

Thanks Coach

 

After decades of playing guitar, the tips of my left fingers are pretty solid too.  Hopefully they won't complain with the soldering.

 

Cheers

 

Peter

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Yes, my finger tips ....  :biggrin_mini2:

 

I am pretty thick skinned anyway......One need to be on forums.....but I also have the usual solderers burned finger tips which helps considerably when holding small items like droplight while one edge furthest from the finger is tagged with a spot of solder. The rest of the droplight is then easily soldered while pressing it down with a pointed file. I hope you can visualize this description.

 

95% of my own coach sides have the droplights etched in, but it is not always possible, the LMS Period II D1782 being one such case. 

 

What's the saying, the trick is not minding that it hurts? :no:

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Larry

 

Thank goodness you are detailing this as I was worried you might delete the previous post. I need to do the same with mine. But I don’t know when given all the other stuff I am working on.

 

Paul

I feed 0 gauge things through occasionally just to keep the pile down! For instance, two wagons were weathered today while doing the auto trailer, although I don't have the time to do full 'Jintyman' weathering jobs. Coaches are in limbo (I do like the Dapol B-Set) until I can sit down with my good friend the CAD expert and discuss a few ideas.

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Coaches are in limbo (I do like the Dapol B-Set) until I can sit down with my good friend the CAD expert and discuss a few ideas.

 

 

Ooooh does that mean some upgrading parts???? ;)

 

I have two Dapol B'sets now to deal with, after I acquired a Cardiff set a few weeks back.

I've sent some figures off to Claudia Everett for painting as she does some amazing work with figure painting, and these will be living in the Brass E147 single composite brake coach.

Her work can be found here:  https://www.cice.space/

 

Sorry for the  :offtopic:  Coachman.

 

Jinty ;)

Edited by Jintyman
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I've sent some figures off to Claudia Everett for painting as she does some amazing work with figure painting, and these will be living in the Brass D147 single composite brake coach.

 

 

As a matter of interest, what is the origin of the E147?

 

I would actually prefer a single coach rather than the E140 (?) Dapol B set, I have as I prefer the smaller flat ended brake composite.

 

It would also fit into my single coach train hauled by non auto fitted tank locos.

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Larry,

 

Lovely work on the auto coach.

 

David,

 

As a matter of interest where did you get the E147?

 

I have a Dapol E140(?) B set but would actually prefer  a single shorted  brake coach with flat ends to haul around with non auto fitted tank locos. 

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As a matter of interest, what is the origin of the E147?

 

I would actually prefer a single coach rather than the E140 (?) Dapol B set, I have as I prefer the smaller flat ended brake composite.

 

It would also fit into my single coach train hauled by non auto fitted tank locos.

 

 

Hi Richard,

 

The E147 is one of the Tower Brass units that I recently acquired from that auction site. 

As standard it came with the shorter inside buffers which I've replaced with a full set of correct longer buffers from Markits.

The main problem with it is that the wheels are incorrect and they will not ride over my track without catching. I am going to replace them with new bogies and FS wheels as it looks quite a pain to extract the wheels from the San Cheng bogies.

 

Hope that helps

 

Jinty ;)

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Hi Richard,

 

The E147 is one of the Tower Brass units that I recently acquired from that auction site. 

As standard it came with the shorter inside buffers which I've replaced with a full set of correct longer buffers from Markits.

The main problem with it is that the wheels are incorrect and they will not ride over my track without catching. I am going to replace them with new bogies and FS wheels as it looks quite a pain to extract the wheels from the San Cheng bogies.

 

Hope that helps

 

Jinty ;)

Thank you that is very helpful, especially the information about the wheels.

 

I believe that at one time there was a 7 mm kit of the E147 available, I suspect from Westdale.

 

Another alternative would be to get some sides etched up, although as a one off that would be rather expensive.

 

Laser cut aero modelling ply is the other thought.

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I did the E147 in 4mm and would have blown it up to 7mm had I not 'discovered' the Dapol bow-end set. 

 

Jinty, where do you obtain your GWR bogie kits?

 

 

I have a pair of Scorpio 8' Fishbelly bogies from Scorpio spare, but I'm replacing the bogies on the E147 with 9' Pressed Steel Wayoh bogies from Invertrain, found here: http://www.invertrain.com/

I used Wayoh bogies on my Autotrailer and they looked great.

 

Jinty ;)

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I kept a particular sound decoder when everything 4mm was disposed of, as I wanted to use it in a 7mm loco. But which one? After putting the idea on hold last December, I bit the bullet today and placed an order. Champing at the bit now! 

 

It was 60 degrees in the shed this afternoon and so another attempt was made to synchronize the chuff rate with the driving wheels on the GWR Pannier. Not being a techno, I don't understand why a Zimo sound decoder from one outlet holds the chuff rate accurately over quite a wide speed range while a Zimo from another sound producer has been a right sod and goes out of synch at around say 35mph.

Edited by coachmann
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This afternoon, PGH and I spent a relaxing hour watching and listening to the Dapol 'Jinty' moving coal on his colliery layout after he kindly fitted the sound equipment. I will spend some time on the CV's tomorrow, time permitting, and then do a short video. 

 

As followers of this thread will have gathered, I no longer have the free time that I took for granted for all those years, and in all probability never will have again. Getting the 7mm scale station buildings out of the way was an achievement (I couldn't face doing it all again!), but it has to be said I would not have contemplated going 0 gauge had I known what was just around the corner last Winter. 

 

PS: PGH posted while I was typing this and making tonight's meal, so thanks Phil.   :good:

Edited by coachmann
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Not sure if you are aware or even want/need one, Larry, but the Lionheart/Dapol 64XX/74XXs are now back in stock - eg. at Kernow Model Rail Centre - http://www.kernowmodelrailcentre.com/p/55334/7S-024-004-Dapol-64xx-Pannier-Tank-Steam-Locomotive-number-6439

Cheers CK. Just checked Tower, and they have them as well so must be readily available, I just want / NEED, the 45XX next.

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I don't understand why a Zimo sound decoder from one outlet holds the chuff rate accurately over quite a wide speed range while a Zimo from another sound producer has been a right sod and goes out of synch at around say 35mph.

 

There is no intrinsic difference in the decoder; the difference is in the sound project.

 

The user will require to set the sync for each individual model as small variances can mount up to through sync out.

 

There are several factors which can affect sync and the sound author will have used them or not depending upon the effect which was being sought. (or whether they know about them).

 

For greatest accuracy, CV158 = 0.

 

Then set chuff rate using speed steps in the order 10 - 20 and adjusting value in CV267 to achieve sync.

 

Then at Speed Step 1, fine tune the slow speed sync with CV354.

 

In 0 gauge you may be able to fit a Sync Disc and reed switch to the decoder (from Paul Martin, see here http://www.ngtrains.com/Pages/Synch_Cam/soundsynch.html )

 

Then CV268 = 1 will give perfect sync at any time and any speed. (In this case you can forget about CV267 and CV354)

 

Best regards,

 

Paul

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