brossard Posted June 2, 2017 Author Share Posted June 2, 2017 (edited) Well Chris, absent any other dissenting opinions, and as I've already done the ends crimson, I'll leave things be. Slaters notes don't mention end colour and it is impossible to tell from the B&W photos I have. You're right about being dirt coloured, I'm sure that's how they'll end up. I'm shocked and appalled that you would bring "luck" into the equation. Thanks John Edited June 2, 2017 by brossard 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted June 2, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 2, 2017 I that sometimes the luck element comes into it when large items come out of the moulds. I don't think they always set the same, particularly curved roofs. Mine was definitely a different shape to the end and not a good fit at all. Much filing, filling and cursing. Pleased yours was OK. Regarding liveries, I think we can sometimes disappear down rabiy holes looking for absolute rules on shades, colour, lining, dates and application. IMO there's lots of variations of 'standard' liveries that can be observed from photos which result from the workshop's interpretation of the standard, the materials to hand, the skill of the operative and sometimes bloodymindedness. I think there was also a hierarchy of care, top level, most care prestigious express locos down to humdrum shutters. Then new coaching stock down to old patched up carriages. Then wagons. As you go down the scale I think there was less oversight and more chance of variation from the standard. There always seem to be exceptions to rules and a photo for everything you thought not possible (generally appearing after a project is completed). Safest bet is to model from a photo. Comparatively easy for big shiny expresses, less so with wagons. As a point, I do have a photo of a rake of clays wagons. All the same diagram number bit but one has the livery applied the same - shades, lettering location and style differ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted June 2, 2017 Share Posted June 2, 2017 Hi John, Not quite the same van, but I built this one a few years ago and sprayed it in a grotty crimson. Martyn. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted June 2, 2017 Author Share Posted June 2, 2017 Ah yes, moulding quality can be hit or miss I guess. In that respect luck does play a part. As I've mentioned I don't get too het up over exact shades. In this case I do have some Humbrol Acrylic BR Crimson which looks to be quite good. Even so paint was usually made up at the shop to the official recipe so its' shade might vary from place to place. I like to get things as right as I can but, as you say, the reality can be somewhat chaotic. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted June 2, 2017 Author Share Posted June 2, 2017 Hi Martyn, that's the passenger brake I mentioned above I think. Nice looking model. Do they make pots of "grotty crimson"? I'll hang on a bit to see if anyone has anything on the PLV/CCT. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted June 2, 2017 Author Share Posted June 2, 2017 Well, here is the van so far: P1010001-006 by John Kendall, on Flickr I did manage to get a good fit, down, to some extent to some careful fettling. The solebar tabs need to be proud of the floor to fit into the bufferbeam recess at the end so some material shaving there. I also reduced the width of the solebar tabs slightly. The bottom horizontal supports for the body strapping were sanded down a bit and the top ones snipped off. I used Humbrol acrylic BR crimson and brush painted (BR paint is hard to come by here). It came out quite well I think. I think I spotted a bristle stuck in the paint so that will have to be excised and retouched. After all the shouting is done I will varnish so that covers a multitude of sins. I added weight IAW G0G guidelines or 1g/mm of length or ~225 gms. There are also a pair of struts holding the sides apart, don't want them bowing. John 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted June 4, 2017 Share Posted June 4, 2017 Nice job on the van John, very nice indeed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted June 4, 2017 Author Share Posted June 4, 2017 Thanks George. More progress today but slow. Pics soon. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted June 5, 2017 Author Share Posted June 5, 2017 It's taken a fair while to get the construction of the van done: P1010001-008 by John Kendall, on Flickr The first obvious thing is that the ends are now black. This is typical of BR crimson/red stock.I got the steps installed and evidently not perfectly. I'll go back and see if I can't tweak them.Ironmongery is installed with commode handles, lever handles and T handles on the doors. I chemically blackened these and then, after installation polished the frequently used surfaces.Chalk plates are done in grimy black.Note the vacuum pipe is attached to a strut. I used black tack to stick the connector in the socket.The steam pipe (for which there was no hose in the kit) is attached by a chain (made by twisting wire strand) to a small hook that I made.The final task this evening was to spray with gloss varnish to give transfers something to stick to.These are on order from Cambridge Custom Transfers.John 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guius Posted June 5, 2017 Share Posted June 5, 2017 Enjoyed following your progress with this model John, thanks for keeping us up to date. Best Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted June 5, 2017 Author Share Posted June 5, 2017 Right Guy, a bit more to do. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted June 8, 2017 Author Share Posted June 8, 2017 I got the transfers done using Cambridge Custom Transfers Sheet BL97: P1010001 by John Kendall, on Flickr The transfers are very good and I am pleased with the results. I sprayed a coat of Dullcote to tone down the gloss.Glazing next. A few words on the transfer sheet. There are transfers for 26 vehicles, but only three sets for this Dia SR3101 CCT. Two of the numbers are for 1951 builds. One is for a 1928 build. To be clear, there are transfers for 9 GWR CCTs of varying dia. There are 2 sets for the SR Ferry Service vans 2 for the SR bike vans and several for SR PMV of varying Dia. My opinion is that this is a useful sheet. John 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted June 8, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 8, 2017 The S1 sheet is very useful too. I've identified which wagons I'm very unlikely ever to have and kitbash those to make others I need. CCT are a very good product and, aside my comments on cost / sheet size, highly recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted June 8, 2017 Author Share Posted June 8, 2017 IIRC Chris, sheet S1 is for the Parkside range. Parkside, unlike Slaters, provide transfers in all their kits. Curious about the advantage(s) of S1. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted June 8, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 8, 2017 IIRC Chris, sheet S1 is for the Parkside range. Parkside, unlike Slaters, provide transfers in all their kits. Curious about the advantage(s) of S1. John Yes that's right John S1 suits the Parkside range, which is why I asked CCT about the possibility of a similar sheet for the Slater's. Why did I get the sheet? Because the CCT transfers are better than Parkside IMO and I bought a fair few of the kits second hand minus transfers. There's some transfer sets that suit, with a slight alteration or substitution other wagons. The main thing was the variety of transfer types on the sheet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted June 8, 2017 Author Share Posted June 8, 2017 Ah thanks Chris. I don't mind Parkside's transfers, but each to their own. I had rather a rum do with my Class 15 transfers and posted some comments about them there. Nothing specifically wrong with the transfers, more to do with my management of them. Makes sense if you're buying second hand certainly. I'm something of a transfer hoarder and keep everything. Certainly a similar omnibus sheet for Slaters would be handy. I've found Fox to be useful for some of my Slaters kits. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium cctransuk Posted June 8, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 8, 2017 IIRC Chris, sheet S1 is for the Parkside range. Parkside, unlike Slaters, provide transfers in all their kits. Curious about the advantage(s) of S1. John Sheet S1 is primarily for the Parkside range of 4mm. scale kits, which don't include transfers. I offer it for other scales - including 7mm. scale - because the Parkside 4mm. scale range is so comprehensive, and 7mm. scale modellers find the sheet covers much of their wagon and NPCCS transfer needs. If you want to see what it covers, just go to http://www.parksidedundas.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_PARKSIDE_DUNDAS_ROLLING_STOCK_KITS.html . Regards, John Isherwood, Cambridge Custom Transfers. https://www.cctrans.org.uk/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted June 8, 2017 Author Share Posted June 8, 2017 (edited) I've built a fair few Parkside kits in both scales John. As you say, no transfers for the 4mm ones, so S1 is a useful thing to have. I didn't know about it. You are definitely on my list for future needs. It strikes me John, that a picture of the transfer sheet would help people when making their choice. John Edited June 8, 2017 by brossard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium cctransuk Posted June 8, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 8, 2017 I've built a fair few Parkside kits in both scales John. As you say, no transfers for the 4mm ones, so S1 is a useful thing to have. I didn't know about it. You are definitely on my list for future needs. It strikes me John, that a picture of the transfer sheet would help people when making their choice. John John, It might - but it'd also be useful to anyone wanting to clone my products. However, genuine enquiries via e-mail will be responded to with a low res. image of the contents sheet. Regards, John. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted June 8, 2017 Author Share Posted June 8, 2017 I rather thought that would be the reason. Thanks John. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted June 10, 2017 Author Share Posted June 10, 2017 I got the glazing and bars in. So many opportunities for things to go pear shaped. The windows were no bother really, I used canopy glue. It looks like PVA but dries kind of rubbery and, of course, clear.The bars were another story. I initially used canopy glue but it wicked between the bars and glass making an unsightly mess. Out they came. After refreshing the paint which had chipped with all the abuse I did them again but used black tack to stick them in. This is similar to blue tak but much stronger. P1010001-001 by John Kendall, on Flickr Roof went on without too much trouble.John 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sulzer Bear Posted June 11, 2017 Share Posted June 11, 2017 That's a nice built, especialy the underframe and brake rigging came out nice. That was where I was browsing Google for, I needed detailed pics to build some models of LB&SCR coaches in as preserved condition, meaning these are running on modified and shortened PMV underframes. The thing where I really struggled with was the brake rigging, and the pictures in your topic are really helpfull, now I can start stripping everything I already made, because it's all wrong! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted June 11, 2017 Author Share Posted June 11, 2017 Ha ha SB, sounds like you're like me with an obsession for things that can't be seen clearly. I too have struggled in the past to get info on underframes of various vehicles and I really appreciate the pictures that were so kindly supplied. Good luck with your build. I'd be interested to see how you get on. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted June 6, 2020 Author Share Posted June 6, 2020 It's been an age but I finally got around to weathering: Airbrush and powders. John 6 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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