SR 4 Wheeled CCT

[brossard]

Todays' work has been to correct the errors of yesterday.

 

P1010001-001 by John Kendall, on Flickr

 

I removed the vacuum and steam pipes and made corrections.  I kept the old vacuum pipe but bent it to crossover nearer the vacuum cylinder.  I replaced the steam pipe with tube of the next larger OD and arranged it to have a low spot where I made up a drain valve.

The pipes did not run along the structure but were inset.  I glued on brass strips similar to what the photos show and soldered the pipes to those.

I also noticed that the outer V hanger near the cylinder should be cranked outward so I did that.  I also refined the cylinder itself and added a safety loop over the actuating crank.

 

Great fun this trying to replicate photos.

John

Edited May 29, 2017 by brossard

[Jintyman]

Lovely job with this, very meticulous.

As Muddys, I have one of these to build, based in the 60's era for Talyllyn.

 

Watching with interest.

 

Jinty

[brossard]

Thanks Jinty, hope this is of some help.

 

John

[brossard]

I think I have the underframe construction complete:

 

P1010001-003 by John Kendall, on Flickr

 

Things added since yesterday:

- safety chains on the brake yokes
- safety loops on the outer manual brake actuators
- trusses
- brake handle s and guides
- spring and axleboxes.

 

Unless anyone can think of something I missed off.

 

P1010003 by John Kendall, on Flickr

 

Lovely side view showing all the busyness, just what I like.

 

Yes it STILL runs.

Last night I began to turn my thoughts to the body.  I reviewed my window bars against the photos and realized I was the victim of an optical illusion.  The verticals should be behind the window frame and not visible.  I therefore refined what I had by repositioning my verticals 1mm to the side.

 

P1010004 by John Kendall, on Flickr

 

I also cleaned them up ready to install.  I think I'll leave the light grey primer as the final colour.

John

[2ManySpams]

Looks the dogs danglies.

 

There's folk that say detailing an underframe is pointless but I think it's very worthwhile for low shots like that - lifts the model from toy train to realistic replica IMO.

[gwrrob]

Beautifully modelled .

[brossard]

Thanks guys, I've always thought detailing underframes is very worthwhile, even on 4mm models and titivated most of mine.  It does elevate the model.

 

Cheers

 

John

[brossard]

Another question.

 

As I contemplate completing this model, my thoughts turn to transfers.  I checked Fox and they seem to have a sheet for the BR Mk 1 CCT (I have a JLTRT kit in the queue), but I can't see anything for this van - also CCT.  Slaters annoyingly only provide transfers for the SR pre nat. van.

 

It's the data list that I'm most concerned about, I think I have most of the other markings on my HMRS coach sheet.  Any suggestions?

 

John

[Enterprisingwestern]

If Railtec don't do them, Steve also does custom work.

 

Mike.

[mike hughes]

^{Cambridge Custom Transfers do them. Not sure which sheet without looking.}

 

^Michael

[Dan Randall]

Another question.

 

As I contemplate completing this model, my thoughts turn to transfers. I checked Fox and they seem to have a sheet for the BR Mk 1 CCT (I have a JLTRT kit in the queue), but I can't see anything for this van - also CCT. Slaters annoyingly only provide transfers for the SR pre nat. van.

 

It's the data list that I'm most concerned about, I think I have most of the other markings on my HMRS coach sheet. Any suggestions?

 

John

Hi John

 

I had the same problem with my BR blue version (which I'm ashamed to say, after several years, is still unfinished...!).

 

 

 

I designed some suitable transfers using TurboCAD and had them printed by a company in Australia called Steam & Things, as I couldn't find anyone in the UK to do them at the time. This was before Railtec came on the scene.

Anyway, if you're modelling BR blue, I believe the PMV/CCT transfers are now part of Steam & Things' range. The numbers are from another source, hence the difference in colouring!

 

Also, it was me that designed the etched window bars seen in Pencarrow's build, but I only had about two or three sets done, as part of a batch of assorted stuff and have none spare. Good job with your scratchbuilt ones though - I thought it too much of a faff, hence the etches, though why Slater's don't include these (or indeed, suitable transfers), is a mystery!

 

 

Regards

 

Dan

Edited May 31, 2017 by Dan Randall

[2ManySpams]

My van is for the BR(S) steam period and is finished in green with yellow transfers. It also annoyed me that Slater's didn't include late period transfers, particularly as it's not a cheap kit. This late peiod blindness is common across their range. I discovered that the majority of my wagons, the Slater's and the brass kits needed transfers and therefore stumped up the cash for the Cambridge Custom Transfers pack covering lots of different wagons. This includes some for the CCT and PMV. I ordered some custom transfers from Railtec for another project two years ago. Gave up in the end as they never made it to production.

 

Yes the etched window bars for my kit came from Dan, very kind of him indeed. When I was modelling 4mm I used a Roxey etch for all the Parkside kits. Not sure if they do a 7mm version.

 

The biggest challenge you have left now is getting a neat join between the ends and roof. In my kit the match was quite poor, hence why I build the body as a removable unit from the chassis rather than adding the roof to the finished body.

[cctransuk]

^{Cambridge Custom Transfers do them. Not sure which sheet without looking.}

 

^Michael

 

See Sheet BL97 at https://www.cctrans.org.uk/products.htm .

 

Regards,

John Isherwood,

Cambridge Custom Transfers.

[2ManySpams]

See Sheet BL97 at https://www.cctrans.org.uk/products.htm .

 

Regards,

John Isherwood,

Cambridge Custom Transfers.

Hi John, Fantastic transfers, love how fine they are and how thin the backing film is. Used them lots in 4mm. The main thing that put me off using them in 7mm was the £20+ pack price.

 

The big difference between 4mm and 7mm modelling IMO is that you have fewer wagons in the same space and generally only ones or twos of each wagon type. In the case of Sheet BL97 I doubt that many folk would have even close to 26 vans in 7mm, the majority of purchasers will probably only use a couple of transfers off the sheet - leaving a lot unused. As a buyer that doesn't make economic sense.

 

Would sales be improved by the 7mm sheets having fewer types or variants, therefore being smaller and cheaper? That's why in the end I went for the S1 sheet, £91 is a lot for a single hit but much better value in the long term. Would you also consider a similar all in one sheet for the Slater's kits? That would be excellent.

 

Apologies for the diversion John.

[cctransuk]

Hi John, Fantastic transfers, love how fine they are and how thin the backing film is. Used them lots in 4mm. The main thing that put me off using them in 7mm was the £20+ pack price.

 

The big difference between 4mm and 7mm modelling IMO is that you have fewer wagons in the same space and generally only ones or twos of each wagon type. In the case of Sheet BL97 I doubt that many folk would have even close to 26 vans in 7mm, the majority of purchasers will probably only use a couple of transfers off the sheet - leaving a lot unused. As a buyer that doesn't make economic sense.

 

Would sales be improved by the 7mm sheets having fewer types or variants, therefore being smaller and cheaper? That's why in the end I went for the S1 sheet, £91 is a lot for a single hit but much better value in the long term. Would you also consider a similar all in one sheet for the Slater's kits? That would be excellent.

 

Apologies for the diversion John.

 

My transfer sheets are all designed at 4mm. scale - that's where the vast majority of sales are made. Modellers in the minority scales - and that does include 7mm. scale - persuaded me to sell my range, resized for their scales.

 

This only makes any kind of financial sense if those sheets are straight rescales - any sheet redesign work cannot be justified.

 

7mm. scale versions of 4mm. scale A6 size sheets occupy an A4 sheet - ie. four times the area of paper. Postage of an A4 sheet is also at the LARGE LETTER rate. Recognising that four times the price would be rather high, I actually only charge three times the price - that being roughly the scale ratio by printed area of 7mm. versus 4mm. scale.

 

I realise that the price for 7mm. scale sheets is not inconsiderable, but that is the only way that I can supply the rescaled versions of my transfer range.

 

Sorry,

John Isherwood.

Edited May 31, 2017 by cctransuk

[brossard]

Wow guys this is an overwhelming response.  Don't know where to start.

 

Dan I did go through your archived thread and found some very interesting pointers.  My window bars were inspired by your etch.  I also put 4 holes in the wheels although whether I got that right I don't know.

 

Slaters do some mysterious things.  Some kits have the transfers, others only some and others still none at all.  Some kits include the screw link coupling while others, like this, don't.  It would help if they indicated in their blurb what extras are needed.

 

Chris, your point is something I'm quite concerned about.  I've done the body in two halves and painted inside and out (primer).  I hope that by offering up the body to the chassis I can identify problem areas and get them sorted.  Fingers crossed.

 

John, thanks for your link.  Enough transfers for 26 vehicles seems rather a lot but getting good quality transfers is top priority.

 

Cheers all, more pics soon.

 

John

[brossard]

A bit more progress. 

 

I did the roof the other night.  Not as drama free as other projects.  The rainstrips are provided in the kit but are thin and brittle.  When I started to clean one up it broke so I abandoned the notion and, instead, used Evergreen 0.040" x 0.040" (1mm x 1mm) strip.  This is flexible and can be teased into a curve easily.

 

P1010001-004 by John Kendall, on Flickr

 

The other dramatic moment was that as I rummaged in the box for the roof vents, I couldn't find them.  I can't say whether they were missing from the kit or whether I lost them.  Anyway, I attacked my now bulging spares box and came up with some.

I used UP Dark Grey (it was handy) on top of grey primer.  I don't get bent out of shape trying to use the official BR colour.  Whatever colour the roof was when outshopped it would quickly get filthy.

 

I've also done some work on the sides and ends:

 

P1010002 by John Kendall, on Flickr

 

Outside is currently in red oxide primer.   As pointed out by Pete and becasse above, the insides of these were painted a pale green after consultations with union.  I have no idea whether the green I used is correct.  I was in the hardware store buying wood to complete my layout boards and bought a can of Krylon Catalina Mist.  It quite a pleasing colour.

 

I'm still a bit confused about the actual colour of the bars visible through the windows.  In B&W photos, it is obviously a light colour.  If Pete and becasse are out there, can you confirm that the bar colour was pale green on both sides.

I hope to tack one side to the underframe (still in paint) and to make sure things fit.  Fingers crossed.

John
 

[2ManySpams]

I think the comment was that the window bars were painted light green when built both sides. I presume this was either before fixing them to the body or before the glass was fitted (if the beading was outside). Once in service I guess future repaints didn't get access to the side of the bars that faced the glass and therefore they remained light green unless replaced for some reason.

 

How do your ends fit into the roof? Mine were awful, different shape and gaps.

[brossard]

Thanks Chris, you confirm what I thought so I'll paint the outside of the bars green too.

 

I haven't checked the fits properly yet.  Previous Slaters kits that I've done have been quite good.  The underframe paint needs to harden before I can move forward.

 

John

[Enterprisingwestern]

I used UP Dark Grey (it was handy) on top of grey primer.  I don't get bent out of shape trying to use the official BR colour.

 

 

I don't think those of us outwith the UK can be too worried. I've got grey, maroon and blue from the local Chinese supermercado to try as equivalent BR colours, if not, it's Vallejo or Tamiya non railway colours from my nearest modelshop. Even when the "correct" colours are available, as you say, with weathering they turn out completely different.

Pragmatism rules.

 

Mike.

[2ManySpams]

I don't think those of us outwith the UK can be too worried. I've got grey, maroon and blue from the local Chinese supermercado to try as equivalent BR colours, if not, it's Vallejo or Tamiya non railway colours from my nearest modelshop. Even when the "correct" colours are available, as you say, with weathering they turn out completely different.

Pragmatism rules.

 

Mike.

Mike, how long before they let you back in the country?

[brossard]

Great minds think alike Mike.  Getting UK colours in North America is quite difficult (there is one place:  http://www.modelrailwayimports.com/suppliers.php, Steve makes an appearance on here from time to time) so we must make do.

 

John

[Enterprisingwestern]

Mike, how long before they let you back in the country?

 

My first term is up soon, I'm trying for parole due to good behaviour, but seeing as you lot have cut us all adrift with Brexit I don't think you want us back.

God help you after next week, it's no good coming crying to me begging for forgiveness and asking for accomodation.

 

Mike.

[brossard]

Another question, in the crimson era were the ends of these CCTs black or crimson?  I have a very nice Hornby crimson passenger brake (a picture of one was provided by Craig in post # 21) which has black ends.  I'm just at the point of painting the body, which BTW, I got to fit very well.  The roof too seems a good fit.

 

John

[2ManySpams]

You're lucky with the roof John.

 

I think the ends were dirt coloured. Jesting aside, it's very difficult to tell from photos what colour they were actually painted. I suspect that both options may be right depending upon who, when and where the repainting happened.