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“Highland Sulzers” - Inverness TMD in the 80's - P4


Indomitable026
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Just thinking this through, instead of the joggle, what if the wire went all the way down and out the bottom end of the tube and then was bent back on its self?

 

Would that have the same effect of preventing the switch rising?

 

I’m sure there’s good reasons for the accepted methods...

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2 hours ago, Indomitable026 said:

Just thinking this through, instead of the joggle, what if the wire went all the way down and out the bottom end of the tube and then was bent back on its self?

 

Would that have the same effect of preventing the switch rising?

 

I’m sure there’s good reasons for the accepted methods...

It slides under the adjacent stock rail, so it’s not just preventing the switch from rising, but more importantly from rising above the adjacent stock rail.

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8 hours ago, Regularity said:

It slides under the adjacent stock rail, so it’s not just preventing the switch from rising, but more importantly from rising above the adjacent stock rail.


So if I’m reading this right were looking at something like this - excuse the drawing...

 

06309873-4A49-4C41-8E1C-3EC3D92CA717.jpeg.de6eac6a5f2ea96c021568ee7b5d8780.jpeg

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I've found operation of the blades and tie/stretcher bars to be an area that seem to get glossed over in a lot of the books/articles on track construction. 

 

Personally I've never bothered doing it that way with three bends. Rightly or wrongly I've previously got away with just an L bend in the wire soldered to the inside of the blade. Think the bar in the turnout operating units on Fryers are at something like 16.5mm centres.

I do have an issue with one of the blades occasionally rising up; to date it hasn't caused any running problems,  but it doesn't look great.  Alternative would be to solder a tab of nickel silver to the underside of the blade that goes under the stock rail, or a pin through the web of the stock rail that aligns with a hole in the blade.

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22 minutes ago, Mark Forrest said:

I've found operation of the blades and tie/stretcher bars to be an area that seem to get glossed over in a lot of the books/articles on track construction. 

 

Personally I've never bothered doing it that way with three bends. Rightly or wrongly I've previously got away with just an L bend in the wire soldered to the inside of the blade. Think the bar in the turnout operating units on Fryers are at something like 16.5mm centres.

I do have an issue with one of the blades occasionally rising up; to date it hasn't caused any running problems,  but it doesn't look great.  Alternative would be to solder a tab of nickel silver to the underside of the blade that goes under the stock rail, or a pin through the web of the stock rail that aligns with a hole in the blade.


I’ve purposely drawn this subject out because I’ve found the same - a lack of information.
 

Yes I was wondering if to go down the tab route.

 

Thank you for suggesting that.

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17 hours ago, Indomitable026 said:

Just thinking this through, instead of the joggle, what if the wire went all the way down and out the bottom end of the tube and then was bent back on its self?

 

Would that have the same effect of preventing the switch rising?

 

I’m sure there’s good reasons for the accepted methods...

 

I did that with the 5 turnouts on my last P4 layout and had no issues with the switch blades lifting or otherwise going where they shouldn't have...

 

John

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Day off today, so getting a few jobs done on the layout.

 

I’ve had the board down so I took the opportunity to do a couple of under the board jobs.

 

I’ve put a bottom on the wash road pit and also fitted the Tortoise mounting units in position.

 

6B428140-172E-413A-81C5-B1E7D30F4859.jpeg.ad16992ce1c600b31559bc59d7e871fc.jpeg

 

I’ll touch up the paintwork later. I know it’s under the board and you can’t see it but I like things neat and I know it’s there...

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45 minutes ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

Could I respectfully refer you to Dave's website for the timbering arrangement?

 

http://www.lanarkshiremodels.com/lanarkshire models and supplies website_157.htm

 

Mike.

 

Chairs only on single rail sections and sleeper spacing modified to suit? Or in the case of the style in Damian's photo, no chairs on the triple rail section.

 

rps20180206_104545.jpg.cb6122d019cc5b6ef0a521d6e819e2ac.jpg.0c0fb9bd2ba0a18cbe0cb73ce0889f5d.jpg

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On 17/12/2020 at 09:26, Mark Forrest said:

I've found operation of the blades and tie/stretcher bars to be an area that seem to get glossed over in a lot of the books/articles on track construction. 

 

I agree. Found it very frustrating that all the books etc concentrate on rails, sleepers, chairs, gauging but omit the bit that makes it work. 

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Nice clear photo of a bufferstop here (although appreciate it is likely to be a different type).

It does appear to have chairs on some of the double rail sections, possibly special chairs?  I've seen a photo somewhere that looked like it showed a chair with keys on both the inside and outside of the rail.

 

What you really need is a good clear photo of the prototype. 

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4 hours ago, Indomitable026 said:

I’ve just coated it all now with some base colours ahead of ballasting.

 

C5DB60DA-2A19-471E-9F84-EF9EE371907B.jpeg.8f92591e829332fc6b1c32de3adb6a67.jpegC340D099-5DFA-4CA4-8624-5DC67D17A97E.jpeg.39f48db259d53d6a01b3cd1b04d25a1b.jpeg

 

Further dry brushing weathering will be added later.

 

 

Looking good, but have you run out of fishplates? 

 

You've reminded me that when I assembled some brass bufferstops for Foundry Lane I glued a square of paper between the support brackets and the cross bar.  This prevents a short when a wheel (inevitably) bridges the gap between the running rails and the bufferstop.

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