Jump to content
 

Which DC Controller?


Coombe Barton

Recommended Posts

Can anyone advise as to the relative merits of:

I'm going to be running Portescap and Mashima motors only. I know that the Morley has an integral transformer and that I'd have to buy external sources for the other two. (Incidentally any recommendations?)

 

This is to power a GW BLT terminus to fiddle yard and 57xx 0-6-0 pannier, 14xx 0-4-2 and 45xx 2-6-2 tanks. Maximim of 2 auto coaches or a dozen wagons with brake van, and no gradients. Shunting is extensive, so accuracy of control is important.

 

Point and signal controls are manual, and lighting and uncoupling AJs are the only other power requirement, probably using fibre optics and LEDs so no heavy power usage from the controller, I'll be using another power source for the solenoids.

 

As always, your help appreciated.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Can anyone advise as to the relative merits of:

I'm going to be running Portescap and Mashima motors only. I know that the Morley has an integral transformer and that I'd have to buy external sources for the other two. (Incidentally any recommendations?)

 

This is to power a GW BLT terminus to fiddle yard and 57xx 0-6-0 pannier, 14xx 0-4-2 and 45xx 2-6-2 tanks. Maximim of 2 auto coaches or a dozen wagons with brake van, and no gradients. Shunting is extensive, so accuracy of control is important.

 

Point and signal controls are manual, and lighting and uncoupling AJs are the only other power requirement, probably using fibre optics and LEDs so no heavy power usage from the controller, I'll be using another power source for the solenoids.

 

As always, your help appreciated.

 

 

John.

 

If it was me I'd go for the Gaugemaster 100M.Its the controller I use for my branch on my layout.It has a din plug connector for a handheld as well.It also comes with a lifetime guarantee.I have no portescaps so can't comment on their use here.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been using a Gaugemaster 100 all weekend at Alexandra Palace I've been using a Gaugemaster W handheld plugged in by the DIN plug. It's been fine at that show and quite a number of previous ones for slow speed running, admittedly I've been using it to control a variety of R-T-R locos, not Portescaps or Mashimas

Link to post
Share on other sites

Another vote here for the 100 + a W in hand. No Portscape but lots of different Mashimas.

 

But I can't comment on the Modelex or the Morley - not heard anything bad - in fact not heard anything about them at all - no need, the 100 (and other cannibalised Gaugemaster) + Walkabout have not let me down yet.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

The Mashima's shouldn't be fussy. There are two issues with portescaps 1. The motors respond quickly ( low inertia ) and can try to follow pulse controls or confuse feedback controllers 2. The life of the brushes are reduced if switched off and on a lot. Some pulse controllers may reduce the brush life.

Stewart Hines devised pentrollers to overcome these issues. However I understand these are no longer available. My portescap driven 0 gauge locos respond well to emmiter follower type designs i.e no pulses. Because the motorgearbox is effiecient I don't seem to have slow running problems with the ones I have. However I have run them on a friend's layout with Modelex controllers with no bad effects.

Donw

Link to post
Share on other sites

Can anyone advise as to the relative merits of:

I'm going to be running Portescap and Mashima motors only. I know that the Morley has an integral transformer and that I'd have to buy external sources for the other two. (Incidentally any recommendations?)

 

This is to power a GW BLT terminus to fiddle yard and 57xx 0-6-0 pannier, 14xx 0-4-2 and 45xx 2-6-2 tanks. Maximim of 2 auto coaches or a dozen wagons with brake van, and no gradients. Shunting is extensive, so accuracy of control is important.

 

Point and signal controls are manual, and lighting and uncoupling AJs are the only other power requirement, probably using fibre optics and LEDs so no heavy power usage from the controller, I'll be using another power source for the solenoids.

 

As always, your help appreciated.

 

We use Modelex controllers on London Road to supplement the Pentrollers. The Modelex were recommended by Tim Shackleton (former MRJ editor) based on experience of them on Roy Jackson's Retford layout. They are less sensitive to overloads (short circuits) than the Pentrollers and although the operators prefer these, we have found the Modelex units to be very good with smooth control.

 

Most locos we run have Mashimas (mainly 1224) with a few Portescaps.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Have used Gaugemaster for years both cased and hand held, have tried one or two others but always gone back to the Gaugemaster. Have used them on "N" "OO" and small "O" gauge layouts. Have not used them with portscape type motors as most stock has been ringfield or the newer drives from the likes of Hornby etc

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • RMweb Premium

I have used the Gaugemaster unit and found no issues whatsoever with it. It is robust and reliable and offers good control across the speed range. The rated power output is 1amp. To my eyes it looks just a mite dated but that is not a big deal.

 

I recently purchased a Morley Vortrak which is basically two Vector units combined to give four outputs. It has performed superbly. The operation of the controls is smoother than the GM and slow-speed control is better. The rated output is a slightly beefier 1.1amps, so nominally 10% more. I make regular use of the 5 metre wander leads of which two are supplied as standard. More could be purchased if required to plug into the other circuits. They are as smooth and responsive as the main unit and allow very precise operation of trains in my yard which is some distance from the panel and previously required a separate controller and a second operator. The only downside is that the centre off does not have a click or notch and until precise control is learned it is easy to suddenly reverse a train. It is also easy to inadvertently leave some power applied to the track - again it is simply a case of learning to check the marker on the dial is at the "Off" position.

 

The unit has a more modern and stylish appearance and mine - being the Australian model - has a built-in cooling fan. All Morley controllers also include a built-in CDU meaning your points do not need any more gadgets and can be wired very simply.

 

Overall I would rate the Morley product slightly ahead of the GM.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

hi

 

i have used h & m for years , they are bulit to last , I know a dealer that sells re-con duettes for £70 , plus he repairs them and makes bespoke units with c d u inside , plus he does a panel mounted duette with an equipment box to go under the layout .

 

my choice would be a duette .

 

tks

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...