new member, had a 30 year break

[BenScoobert]

Hi everyone

 

An introducer message here, I had a model railway built for me in 1981-1982 by my Dad, a few years later a divorce followed and it hasnt been set up since.

 

I've just built a new shed so we can empty the spare room ready for the arrival of our 1st child in September.

 

Which leads us to the spare space I have left in the shed, I'm trying my best to make everything fit under the 2ft perimeter shelf I have installed around the shed. The shed is 410cm x 195cm internally, this gives me a decent size layout potential.

 

I got all my old kit out and there is a bit less than I thought there was, I have about 6 locos and a couple of 125s plus lots of old rolling stock, a few station bits and no track as I threw it away when it had been in a damp loft and was beyond use. I also have a couple of old dc controllers, enough for 3 lines.

 

As I'm starting almost from a fresh start I had wondered about the new DCC systems, I'm quite into my computers and I could either throw a machine together for it or salvage an old laptop to dedicate to the job. At this stage I know nothing of DCC apart from I'd have to put a chip in old DC kit and even some of them cant be done as far as I know.

 

So thats it for now, I'm here to read and learn before I commit to purchasing anything so if anyone wants to point me in the right direction, I'm all ears.

Regards

Ben

[96701]

Hiya Ben, and welcome to the font of all model railway knowledge, some of it conflicting, so read carefully, and make your own mind up. There's plenty of time.

[Guest Max Stafford]

It's a bit of a culture shock in truth Ben when you come back to the hobby after that length of time. For a while you'll feel like Sam Tyler; "It's like I've landed on a different planet..."

However, you've landed in the right place - there is so much knowledge here to be shared. For best effect though, have a good think about your questions before you ask them so you really know what you want and the members know what you're asking.

So, I bid you welcome, enjoy your time here!

 

Dave.

[BenScoobert]

It's a bit of a culture shock in truth Ben when you come back to the hobby after that length of time. For a while you'll feel like Sam Tyler; "It's like I've landed on a different planet..."

However, you've landed in the right place - there is so much knowledge here to be shared. For best effect though, have a good think about your questions before you ask them so you really know what you want and the members know what you're asking.

So, I bid you welcome, enjoy your time here!

 

Dave.

 

Thanks, you're not kidding, I've just been browsing the DCC section, it seems to be the sensible option, which probably obsoletes 90% of what I have, I'm not sure I can DCC kit this old. I'll have a good search, if I dont find what I'm after I'm sure a DCC guru will point me right.

 

The DC controllers I have look like they may electrocute you when compared to todays models. Reminds me of when I turned on a CRT TV the other day for the 1st time in ages, after having an LCD TV for 3 years and rear pojection before that, it jolted to life with a power surge and I leapt a foot from it. haha

[96701]

If you want to know about fitting chips to old kit, try to be precise about describing the kit that you have. There are a number of people have successfully chipped Triang locos, so don't write them off, however I've got rid a few old things, mainly because they don't pass muster when compared to the new stuff.

[edcayton]

Hi Ben.

As I read your OP you are going to put the railway UNDER the shelf. Please think again about this because stuff will fall off the shelf and land on the railway! I would suggest that you put the railway as high as you can (4'6" to 5' depending on how tall you are.

 

Doing this will allow you to put shelves, workbench etc under the layout and the extra height gives clearance for annoying things like bikes and lawnmowers that tend to end up in sheds!

 

This makes viewing much more realistic, and the "duck under" (if you have one) easier. you can always invest in a little hop-up to stand on for work on the layout.

 

Best wishes

 

Ed

[Huw Griffiths]

As I read your OP you are going to put the railway UNDER the shelf. Please think again about this because stuff will fall off the shelf and land on the railway! I would suggest that you put the railway as high as you can (4'6" to 5' depending on how tall you are.

 

... This makes viewing much more realistic, and the "duck under" (if you have one) easier. you can always invest in a little hop-up to stand on for work on the layout.

There's another reason for not putting your layout under a shelf - the risk of bashing your head every time you need to deal with a derailed train. There's also the same problem when you're building your layout (or otherwise working on it).

 

I also agree with the comment about the stepstool - IKEA sell some great wooden ones - but I hope you don't have anything so high and far back that you have to stretch.

 

This is probably sounding like a lecture - I don't want it to. In my last job, I had to do some health and safety enforcement - mainly electrical - but I saw some accidents waiting to happen. I didn't enjoy telling people what they couldn't do - but it was a lot less tedious than all the paperwork if I didn't!

 

I also installed a lot of strain gauges - and quickly discovered the advantages of neat, well labelled, wiring. I've also seen the benefits on some club layouts (the wiring on some was anything but neat) - it's amazing how easy it is to get caught up in messy wiring, if you have to duck under a layout. The damage to the layout isn't pleasant - but it can be the least of your worries!

 

This is neither the time nor the place go into detail - when you're ready to build, there are plenty of people with good ideas about this and other aspects of building your layout. Quite a few of them are on this site - and lots of other model railway discussion sites.

 

This is a great site - and it's well worth sticking around. I'd suggest you look round - see what you like - ask questions. Some people might not like me saying this, but also check out a few other sites - do exactly the same there. While you're at it, why not also check out a few exhibitions and club open days? At this stage, you're not really locked into OO - or any other scale - you're also not locked into UK outline - or even standard gauge. I don't want to push you towards anything - and I'm not going to try. The point is that, right now, it makes sense to make sure you know what you're looking for - and that this is achievable.

 

You've already got some excellent advice (not to rush in headlong) - and it sounds like you're heeding it.

 

In time, you'll work out what you really want to do - by then, you'll probably also have a few layout ideas sketched out. This is where this site really comes into its own - there's nothing like loads of pairs of eyes to stop you making an expensive mistake!

 

It sounds as if you've already discovered one mistake a lot of people make - and it concerns track. I'm guessing that your old track was the steel stuff a lot of firms stick in train sets - and it has this nasty habit of rusting. The simple answer is to get nickel silver track in future. It isn't a brilliant conductor of electricity, but this is easy to take care of when you wire the layout.

 

There are other aspects to track selection - your choices will be affected by what you run on it (and how old it is). I'd rather not go into a lot of detail right now - but I'd advise you to ask questions when you're ready.

 

In the meantime, please carry on looking - and asking questions. Above all, take things at your own pace. We all want you to enjoy the hobby - I'm sure that plenty of us would be happy to answer questions (if we know the answers ourselves!).

 

All the best,

 

Huw.

[DavidB-AU]

Your 30 year old models aren't necessarily obsolete, but there is no comparison to the quality of mechanisms available today.

 

You might give some serious consideration to N gauge as one loop around the walls of your shed would be more than a scale mile. The new Farish and Dapol equipment is outstanding compared to even 10 years ago and most of it is DCC ready.

 

I concur with Huw - a visit to a local exhibition and talking to other modellers will be a great benefit. Don't be afraid to ask questions. There are no dumb questions.

 

Cheers

David

[BenScoobert]

If you want to know about fitting chips to old kit, try to be precise about describing the kit that you have. There are a number of people have successfully chipped Triang locos, so don't write them off, however I've got rid a few old things, mainly because they don't pass muster when compared to the new stuff.

 

I may ahve to post pictures of what I have, some of it has no name on, like my 45 peak just says made in hongkong on the bottom and nothing else, I know my scotsman is Hornby as it was the full trainset kit, I have an old solid metal loco which I had valued by a shop and said he would give me £80 for it so I guess its worth double that. All I really know at the moment is it is all no newer than 1982.

 

Hi Ben.

As I read your OP you are going to put the railway UNDER the shelf. Please think again about this because stuff will fall off the shelf and land on the railway! I would suggest that you put the railway as high as you can (4'6" to 5' depending on how tall you are.

 

Doing this will allow you to put shelves, workbench etc under the layout and the extra height gives clearance for annoying things like bikes and lawnmowers that tend to end up in sheds!

 

This makes viewing much more realistic, and the "duck under" (if you have one) easier. you can always invest in a little hop-up to stand on for work on the layout.

 

Best wishes

 

Ed

When I said to get everything under the shelf, I meant everything else I'm trying to save the shelf for the layout, the shelf is 1m high all the way round, but I cant really go higher as I designed the roof for my 5'9" head, so no steps to reach up or ill be banging my head on the roof.

This is probably sounding like a lecture - I don't want it to. In my last job, I had to do some health and safety enforcement - mainly electrical - but I saw some accidents waiting to happen. I didn't enjoy telling people what they couldn't do - but it was a lot less tedious than all the paperwork if I didn't!

 

I also installed a lot of strain gauges - and quickly discovered the advantages of neat, well labelled, wiring. I've also seen the benefits on some club layouts (the wiring on some was anything but neat) - it's amazing how easy it is to get caught up in messy wiring, if you have to duck under a layout. The damage to the layout isn't pleasant - but it can be the least of your worries!

 

This is neither the time nor the place go into detail - when you're ready to build, there are plenty of people with good ideas about this and other aspects of building your layout. Quite a few of them are on this site - and lots of other model railway discussion sites.

 

This is a great site - and it's well worth sticking around. I'd suggest you look round - see what you like - ask questions. Some people might not like me saying this, but also check out a few other sites - do exactly the same there. While you're at it, why not also check out a few exhibitions and club open days? At this stage, you're not really locked into OO - or any other scale - you're also not locked into UK outline - or even standard gauge. I don't want to push you towards anything - and I'm not going to try. The point is that, right now, it makes sense to make sure you know what you're looking for - and that this is achievable.

 

You've already got some excellent advice (not to rush in headlong) - and it sounds like you're heeding it.

 

In time, you'll work out what you really want to do - by then, you'll probably also have a few layout ideas sketched out. This is where this site really comes into its own - there's nothing like loads of pairs of eyes to stop you making an expensive mistake!

 

It sounds as if you've already discovered one mistake a lot of people make - and it concerns track. I'm guessing that your old track was the steel stuff a lot of firms stick in train sets - and it has this nasty habit of rusting. The simple answer is to get nickel silver track in future. It isn't a brilliant conductor of electricity, but this is easy to take care of when you wire the layout.

 

There are other aspects to track selection - your choices will be affected by what you run on it (and how old it is). I'd rather not go into a lot of detail right now - but I'd advise you to ask questions when you're ready.

 

In the meantime, please carry on looking - and asking questions. Above all, take things at your own pace. We all want you to enjoy the hobby - I'm sure that plenty of us would be happy to answer questions (if we know the answers ourselves!).

 

All the best,

 

Huw.

I'm not sure what a strain guage is...... but you are right, i will be labelling everything on the underside for my own sanity, especially if I plan to get the signalling right.

I went to the Halifax model rail show last year, lots of good ideas, I just bought a few lengths of old track on ebay for £2, it will give me a chance to test what actually works.

 

Your 30 year old models aren't necessarily obsolete, but there is no comparison to the quality of mechanisms available today.

 

You might give some serious consideration to N gauge as one loop around the walls of your shed would be more than a scale mile. The new Farish and Dapol equipment is outstanding compared to even 10 years ago and most of it is DCC ready.

 

I concur with Huw - a visit to a local exhibition and talking to other modellers will be a great benefit. Don't be afraid to ask questions. There are no dumb questions.

 

Cheers

David

 

I have always considered N guage, I'm not particularly attached to the kit I have so I will take a look at what is available these days, back in the 80s they were new and I remember my Dad said they lacked detail.

 

Thanks to everyone for the advice so far

[BenScoobert]

ok, I've just had a quick photo shoot, I'm sure the age of some of these will amuse you

if anyone has any idea of value or if they can be DCC converted I'd live to know, at this point im not sure if ill drop to n guage or DCC what i can

 

the old metal one I mentioned

 

a box of random trucks

 

this station is solid metal

 

 

the underside of the santa fe

 

Hornby shunter

 

my original hst

 

a hst i was given about 20 years ago

 

a little clock work engine, sadly no longer winds

 

an old triang controller

 

a box of coaches and randoms

[Huw Griffiths]

When I said to get everything under the shelf, I meant everything else I'm trying to save the shelf for the layout, the shelf is 1m high all the way round, but I cant really go higher as I designed the roof for my 5'9" head, so no steps to reach up or ill be banging my head on the roof.

Ben,

 

You were right about that controller - it's probably older than me - and electrical safety standards have moved on a lot since it was made. Also, it's been stuffed away in a damp loft - so moisture has probably got at the innards - better safe than sorry.

 

A metre high sounds like a sensible height for a layout - you could comfortably see (and operate) it sitting down. If you haven't already put in the shed wiring, you might also want mains sockets at a similar height (you'll want to keep them accessible) - another issue here is to make sure moisture can't get at the wiring. There are recognised ways to do this - but I'm not going to say what they are on a public forum site. I'm not being a spoilsport - I just don't want anyone who doesn't know what they're doing to get ideas they don't fully understand and make a dangerous mess of things!

 

At this point, I'd better explain where I'm coming from. I'm an electrical engineer, in my mid 40s - and, for many years, I worked in a University as an instrumentation technician. This is how I came across strain gauges. Strain gauges are very small (typically about 10mm by 5mm) pieces of thin insulating material, with a fine metal grid etched onto them - a bit like a miniature printed circuit board. They need to be glued firmly in place, very accurately and facing in exactly the right direction - and wires are taken from them to a data logger. Usually, the wires go to solder terminals - and thicker wires go from there to the data logger. Also, there might be dozens of gauges at different places on the same specimen. All of this means that the wiring - and glueing - requirements are probably far more demanding than what you'll get on a model railway layout. It does, however, force good practice.

 

This is why I was mentioning about neat wiring (which is easy to trace and can't get pulled accidentally). There are a number of ways of doing this - but the key thing is to keep wires neatly in place, in clearly defined "runs". Colour coding is a big help with tracing wires - it's also worth fitting numbered labels to both ends of all wires (also at intermediate points, if you've got long runs, or at the ends of baseboard sections). This brings me to another point - I hope you're splitting the baseboard / shelf into a number of separate sections, which can be removed individually at a later date. Apart from making it easier to work on, this would also allow you to move the layout if you move house. This might mean adding a few more supports - or chopping the board into shorter pieces - but I think it's worth the effort at this stage. This "modular" approach is also useful with wiring - if you get a problem, it allows you to isolate sections for faultfinding. You'd need to make reliable connections between boards - but I think this is a price well worth paying.

 

 

Anyway, I think you'd rather read about your models.

 

The metal tender loco is probably Hornby Dublo (could be Wrenn, as I think they took over some of their designs) - I suspect the station might also be Dublo. I don't pretend to be an expert on these, as they were before my time. This sort of stuff sometimes comes up on "Flog It!" and other antiques programmes - you might be looking at about 50 or 60 years old - there are collectors, but I don't think they pay a fortune.

 

The wagons are probably about 40-ish years old - I recognise some of them as being the same as ones I had in my first Triang Hornby trainset in 1972 - the designs had been around for a while then and stayed in production for a while after. They're probably not worth much. I also noticed a Rosebud leaflet - Rosebud made a number of plastic OO kits about 50 years ago - they were later rebranded as Airfix - surviving designs are now being sold by Dapol.

 

The Great Western "101" tank, the "Hymek" and the HSTs are Hornby - 70s or early 80s. Like the Scotsman, the HSTs have since been replaced by an improved, all-new, model.

 

The "Peak" is probably of a similar vintage - first produced by Palitoy / Mainline, the moulds passed to Bachmann.

 

One other thing I've noticed is in the picture of the Mehano SantaFe switcher. Some muck has found its way between the wheels (and probably into the mechanism). This is a common problem, which could affect running in the future - nothing that a clean can't take care of! There's plenty of advice about this - probably on this website - I'd take note of the advice, as some parts are best cleaned or oiled and other parts are best left alone. Also, some cleaning chemicals could damage the insulation on the motor windings - they can also damage bodyshells or paint jobs. You'd also need to know how to take locos apart and reassemble them - if the locos have any instruction sheets, these might give some guidance on this. If you're a member of a model railway club, you'd also be able to get some advice there. It's like a lot of things - rather tedious - not difficult - but you need to know what you're doing.

 

 

Anyway, I'm sure you've got far better things to do than plough through my ramblings. I don't want to stop you.

 

Regards,

 

Huw.

[45156]

Welcome aboard

 

By now, you will have an idea that there's a lot of knowledge and experience on here - indeed, some of the best modellers in the country hide on RMweb under pseudonyms, but I can assure you that they will not look down on you as a newcomer, and will treat you well (except if you stray into W&S, the social zone) were anything goes.

 

Your metal station is almost certainly Hornby Dublo, and a lot of the rolling stock appeats to be Tri-Ang or Tri-Ang Hornby or just Hornby - all derive from the same Rovex parentage essentially. Modern Hornby is really the grandson of Tri-Ang, and Hornby Dublo was a Meccano brand - of course the original Meccano went under in the 1960s, and the Hornby name was bought by Tri-Ang, and in time this became Hornby hobbies after a lot of corporate rejigging.

 

The other modern makers are Bachmann (which derives from Mainline/Palitoy), Dapol (which inherited a lot of the old Airfix patterns) and Heljan, which is a Danish maker.

 

The modern models are streets ahead of what you will remember - shame that the ready to use track has not progressed in the same radical way!

 

Your old controller is a Tri-Ang P5.5 transformer/controller from the 1960s and is very basic indeed by today's standards - it is a simple transformer with a bridge rectifier, a couple of smoothers, and a rheostatic controller. There's no electronics at all in it, and apart from the safety issues of using it. it is likely to be less reliable that either a Gaugemaster or a Morley - if you decide against DCC, these two are your best options as most modern motors respond well to these controllers - I prefer the Morley myself.

 

Hope this helps and welcome again

Stewart

[Huw Griffiths]

Your old controller is a Tri-Ang P5.5 transformer/controller from the 1960s and is very basic indeed by today's standards - it is a simple transformer with a bridge rectifier, a couple of smoothers, and a rheostatic controller. There's no electronics at all in it, and apart from the safety issues of using it. it is likely to be less reliable that either a Gaugemaster or a Morley - if you decide against DCC, these two are your best options as most modern motors respond well to these controllers - I prefer the Morley myself.

This is good advice. There are several good modern makes of controller - but you can't go wrong with either of these makes.

 

As for DCC, I've never used it - but I've been trying to learn about it, out of technical interest. I know you've had 2 different books on the subject recommended to you:

 

• Ian Morton: Aspects of Modelling - Digital Command Control
• Nigel Burkin: Digital Command Control for Railway Modellers

I'd happily recommend either of these - or, indeed, both of them. Both are well written - and cover the important stuff thoroughly - which you get is down to personal preference.

 

While I think about it, you might also wish to see if any local model railway shops are holding open days / mini exhibitions - especially if they're DCC themed. You don't have to buy anything - but they can be a good chance to speak to people from manufacturers and importers. You can also get hold of literature about different systems - and find out what all the jargon means.

 

Talking of literature, a lot of manufacturers have PDFs of manuals and other technical stuff on their websites. Although some of it goes over my head, there are a few things you need to check before you buy. Apart from whether the controllers and decoders are capable of controlling enough trains, or sourcing enough current, you also need to know whether you can work out how to use them.

 

This is where exhibitions, club open days and shop DCC events really come into their own. The people at these events expect to be asked questions. At last year's DCC day at OnTracks, there were people there from Hornby, Gaugemaster and Roco/Fleischmann - all were giving straight answers - none were trying to force instant sales - the general line seemed to be that they'd much rather people wait and get what was suitable for their needs. If there are any similar events near where you live, I'm sure you'll get similar treatment - if you don't, you know exactly what to do!

 

Anyway, that's enough from me.

 

Regards,

 

Huw.

[45156]

 

• Ian Morton: Aspects of Modelling - Digital Command Control
• Nigel Burkin: Digital Command Control for Railway Modellers

I'd happily recommend either of these - or, indeed, both of them. Both are well written - and cover the important stuff thoroughly - which you get is down to personal preference.

 

 

Both of these worthies are (or were) RMWeb members - Ian is current - not sure about Nigel, but I think he's still lurking out there.

 

They both really know their stuff, and Ian also has pubished a similar book on DC control and wiring

[BenScoobert]

Yesterday was a disappointing day, I went to 2 model shops to get an idea of how much my kit would fetch towards an N guage layout. It seems the shops are only interested in new 2nd hand stuff, 5 years or newer

So I think a decision has been made for me, I'm on 00 guage with my existing kit, some of it should convert, the rest will either sell or look pretty on sidings.

 

The old metal stations I'm sure I will sell, they appear to be of medium value and I don't want to use them as they don't look realistic when compared with todays kit.

 

I'll keep my eye out for one of those books you recommended, I had a talk with a guy yesterday regarding the joy of points and frogs, benefits of plastic vs metal etc.

I really could do with finding a shop or other member who has a DCC layout, I'm in West Yorkshire if anyone wants to offer

 

I'll check out millenium models in morley on my way home form work.

[beast66606]

I really could do with finding a shop or other member who has a DCC layout, I'm in West Yorkshire if anyone wants to offer

 

We are near Chester and we will be having an open day with our layout Widnes in the not too distant (hopefully, got to chat with the team and owner of the facility first!) future or you could visit anyway with prior agreement of a suitable date/time. We have Digitrax DCC, Peco track and use computers for simulation of power boxes, controlling our scratch built signals - by the time the open day arrives we may also have some automatic (computer controlled) trains !

[BenScoobert]

Ben,

 

You were right about that controller - it's probably older than me - and electrical safety standards have moved on a lot since it was made. Also, it's been stuffed away in a damp loft - so moisture has probably got at the innards - better safe than sorry.

 

A metre high sounds like a sensible height for a layout - you could comfortably see (and operate) it sitting down. If you haven't already put in the shed wiring, you might also want mains sockets at a similar height (you'll want to keep them accessible) - another issue here is to make sure moisture can't get at the wiring. There are recognised ways to do this - but I'm not going to say what they are on a public forum site. I'm not being a spoilsport - I just don't want anyone who doesn't know what they're doing to get ideas they don't fully understand and make a dangerous mess of things!

 

At this point, I'd better explain where I'm coming from. I'm an electrical engineer, in my mid 40s - and, for many years, I worked in a University as an instrumentation technician. This is how I came across strain gauges. Strain gauges are very small (typically about 10mm by 5mm) pieces of thin insulating material, with a fine metal grid etched onto them - a bit like a miniature printed circuit board. They need to be glued firmly in place, very accurately and facing in exactly the right direction - and wires are taken from them to a data logger. Usually, the wires go to solder terminals - and thicker wires go from there to the data logger. Also, there might be dozens of gauges at different places on the same specimen. All of this means that the wiring - and glueing - requirements are probably far more demanding than what you'll get on a model railway layout. It does, however, force good practice.

 

This is why I was mentioning about neat wiring (which is easy to trace and can't get pulled accidentally). There are a number of ways of doing this - but the key thing is to keep wires neatly in place, in clearly defined "runs". Colour coding is a big help with tracing wires - it's also worth fitting numbered labels to both ends of all wires (also at intermediate points, if you've got long runs, or at the ends of baseboard sections). This brings me to another point - I hope you're splitting the baseboard / shelf into a number of separate sections, which can be removed individually at a later date. Apart from making it easier to work on, this would also allow you to move the layout if you move house. This might mean adding a few more supports - or chopping the board into shorter pieces - but I think it's worth the effort at this stage. This "modular" approach is also useful with wiring - if you get a problem, it allows you to isolate sections for faultfinding. You'd need to make reliable connections between boards - but I think this is a price well worth paying.

 

 

Anyway, I think you'd rather read about your models.

 

The metal tender loco is probably Hornby Dublo (could be Wrenn, as I think they took over some of their designs) - I suspect the station might also be Dublo. I don't pretend to be an expert on these, as they were before my time. This sort of stuff sometimes comes up on "Flog It!" and other antiques programmes - you might be looking at about 50 or 60 years old - there are collectors, but I don't think they pay a fortune.

 

The wagons are probably about 40-ish years old - I recognise some of them as being the same as ones I had in my first Triang Hornby trainset in 1972 - the designs had been around for a while then and stayed in production for a while after. They're probably not worth much. I also noticed a Rosebud leaflet - Rosebud made a number of plastic OO kits about 50 years ago - they were later rebranded as Airfix - surviving designs are now being sold by Dapol.

 

The Great Western "101" tank, the "Hymek" and the HSTs are Hornby - 70s or early 80s. Like the Scotsman, the HSTs have since been replaced by an improved, all-new, model.

 

The "Peak" is probably of a similar vintage - first produced by Palitoy / Mainline, the moulds passed to Bachmann.

 

One other thing I've noticed is in the picture of the Mehano SantaFe switcher. Some muck has found its way between the wheels (and probably into the mechanism). This is a common problem, which could affect running in the future - nothing that a clean can't take care of! There's plenty of advice about this - probably on this website - I'd take note of the advice, as some parts are best cleaned or oiled and other parts are best left alone. Also, some cleaning chemicals could damage the insulation on the motor windings - they can also damage bodyshells or paint jobs. You'd also need to know how to take locos apart and reassemble them - if the locos have any instruction sheets, these might give some guidance on this. If you're a member of a model railway club, you'd also be able to get some advice there. It's like a lot of things - rather tedious - not difficult - but you need to know what you're doing.

 

 

Anyway, I'm sure you've got far better things to do than plough through my ramblings. I don't want to stop you.

 

Regards,

 

Huw.

 

Thanks for all that Huw, feel free to ramble, it all helps me

 

Thed currently is powered from the house by a long extension into a 6 way adaptor with individual switches on each socket, I have 2 70w 6ft strip lights mounted and a dehumidifier to keep it dry(er), all fairly low voltage with fuses and an over heat protector in the extension

 

I'm going have a clean up and test of the kit I have, thanks for pointing me towards identifying them

[BenScoobert]

We are near Chester and we will be having an open day with our layout Widnes in the not too distant (hopefully, got to chat with the team and owner of the facility first!) future or you could visit anyway with prior agreement of a suitable date/time. We have Digitrax DCC, Peco track and use computers for simulation of power boxes, controlling our scratch built signals - by the time the open day arrives we may also have some automatic (computer controlled) trains !

 

Thanks for the offer, if I cant find anything a little closer I might just take you up on that.

[Stubby47]

Thanks for the offer, if I cant find anything a little closer I might just take you up on that.

 

Don't hesitate !!!!! I believe these open days are a) quite rare, B) fairly limited in number of visitors, and c) a chance to see an excellent layout.

 

This is from someone who is 350+ miles away and is green with envy...

 

Stu

[Huw Griffiths]

So I think a decision has been made for me, I'm on 00 guage with my existing kit, some of it should convert, the rest will either sell or look pretty on sidings.

Not so fast, Ben.

 

The model shops are probably looking for stuff they can sell quickly, for people to drop onto their layouts (or hack to bits) - this is why they're only interested in recent stuff.

 

A lot of your stuff would be of more interest to collectors - like the Dublo - given time, you're likely to come across someone who actually wants it.

 

Quite a few modellers are into what's known Stateside as "rubber gauging" - dabbling in a few scales. There's nothing to stop you doing this. There's also nothing to stop to knocking up a wall display case for your existing models.

 

 

What you don't want to do is feel trapped in a particular scale, just because you've got some existing stock (which you probably wouldn't want to run anyway).

 

Far better to decide what scale you really want to go for - and go for it. If you don't, every time you look at your layout, you'll be thinking "what if ..." - I don't think you'd enjoy it at all.

 

Let's get mercenary about this. Think about the stock you've already got - how much of this would you actually run - and how much would this be worth? How much would you be spending on new stuff, in any scale? My guess is this is probably many times what your existing stock is worth - and you'd be spending all of this in a scale you don't even like! Please don't go there, for your own sanity.

 

 

Now about those open days - they sound great. The clubs who own these layouts will have good reasons for using one make of controller - or track - or anything else, for that matter. They might also be thinking about what they'd get for their next layout - again they'll have reasons. They won't mind you asking what those reasons were - or if you've got any other questions - that's why they hold these events.

 

You might also find (or be in) a decent club near where you live - what gear do they use (and why)? If you know somebody who already uses some kit - and they're happy with it - this is likely to be a big plus.

 

 

Ultimately though, it's your hobby - and your money - go for what you want, not what somebody else does (or doesn't)!

 

Regards,

 

Huw.

[Huw Griffiths]

The shed currently is powered from the house by a long extension into a 6 way adaptor with individual switches on each socket, I have 2 70w 6ft strip lights mounted and a dehumidifier to keep it dry(er), all fairly low voltage with fuses and an over heat protector in the extension

You might also want to invest in a plug or adaptor containing a RCD (also known as "residual current device", "residual current breaker" or "RCB").

 

These also used to be known as "earth leakage circuit breakers" or "ELCBs" - which tells you what they do.

 

Normally, there shouldn't be any current going to ground (as it would probably also go through anyone unfortunate enough to be there) - so these things are designed to kill the supply if they detect any current through the earth wire. Far better than the current killing ... !

 

These things aren't expensive - I think of them as a "must have" - I won't use any electrical stuff outside (or in the shed) without one. I'd also go for a reputable brand - I want the thing to work (but I don't want it to need to)!

 

While on the subject of electrical safety, when did you last give your extension lead a through look-over? My guess is quite a while ago. In this time, the wire or plug could have been damaged - or the plug or socket cable grips could have worked loose. Better safe than sorry.

 

Regards,

 

Huw.

[BenScoobert]

Not so fast, Ben.

 

The model shops are probably looking for stuff they can sell quickly, for people to drop onto their layouts (or hack to bits) - this is why they're only interested in recent stuff.

 

A lot of your stuff would be of more interest to collectors - like the Dublo - given time, you're likely to come across someone who actually wants it.

 

Quite a few modellers are into what's known Stateside as "rubber gauging" - dabbling in a few scales. There's nothing to stop you doing this. There's also nothing to stop to knocking up a wall display case for your existing models.

 

 

What you don't want to do is feel trapped in a particular scale, just because you've got some existing stock (which you probably wouldn't want to run anyway).

 

Far better to decide what scale you really want to go for - and go for it. If you don't, every time you look at your layout, you'll be thinking "what if ..." - I don't think you'd enjoy it at all.

 

Let's get mercenary about this. Think about the stock you've already got - how much of this would you actually run - and how much would this be worth? How much would you be spending on new stuff, in any scale? My guess is this is probably many times what your existing stock is worth - and you'd be spending all of this in a scale you don't even like! Please don't go there, for your own sanity.

 

 

Now about those open days - they sound great. The clubs who own these layouts will have good reasons for using one make of controller - or track - or anything else, for that matter. They might also be thinking about what they'd get for their next layout - again they'll have reasons. They won't mind you asking what those reasons were - or if you've got any other questions - that's why they hold these events.

 

You might also find (or be in) a decent club near where you live - what gear do they use (and why)? If you know somebody who already uses some kit - and they're happy with it - this is likely to be a big plus.

 

 

Ultimately though, it's your hobby - and your money - go for what you want, not what somebody else does (or doesn't)!

 

Regards,

 

Huw.

 

Yes its true, they have to make a living, I guess I could sell stuff off individually if it comes to it. via ebay or forum etc

 

I fancy trying N guage, one guy mentioned there isnt much available dcc ready in N, is that the case? I guess they are harder to chip due to the size

 

You might also want to invest in a plug or adaptor containing a RCD (also known as "residual current device", "residual current breaker" or "RCB").

 

These also used to be known as "earth leakage circuit breakers" or "ELCBs" - which tells you what they do.

 

Normally, there shouldn't be any current going to ground (as it would probably also go through anyone unfortunate enough to be there) - so these things are designed to kill the supply if they detect any current through the earth wire. Far better than the current killing ... !

 

These things aren't expensive - I think of them as a "must have" - I won't use any electrical stuff outside (or in the shed) without one. I'd also go for a reputable brand - I want the thing to work (but I don't want it to need to)!

 

While on the subject of electrical safety, when did you last give your extension lead a through look-over? My guess is quite a while ago. In this time, the wire or plug could have been damaged - or the plug or socket cable grips could have worked loose. Better safe than sorry.

 

Regards,

 

Huw.

 

I'll grab one next time im at stax, the extesion is pretty new, it passes through a hole in the window frame into the kitchen and plugs in, nothing moves it or can knock it as its out of the way.

[Huw Griffiths]

I fancy trying N guage, one guy mentioned there isnt much available dcc ready in N, is that the case? I guess they are harder to chip due to the size

I'm afraid I can't help you on the N gauge - but I'm sure there are plenty of people here who can.

 

I'm actually heading in the opposite direction - On30 - but I know exactly where you're coming from.

 

I haven't gone digital yet - as I don't have a layout, there's no point! The reason I'm interested in DCC is that I'm scratchbuilding some freelance railcars and "critters", so I'm allowing for DCC retrofit at a later date. The other benefit for me is that it makes the internal wiring easier to trace. (I won't be posting pictures any time soon, as I don't have a digital camera. There wouldn't be much point, as I don't have much to take pictures of!)

 

 

You might be wondering why I was so quick to jump on your "the decision is made, but I don't like it" comment. Most people have come across the "lost cost" trap at some time. Many have fallen into it - it's human nature. It's also easier to spot from a distance.

 

I actually encountered this trap in my final year project, on my HND! I was shown a power relay - and asked to come up with a lab class, so future students could work out its characteristics. When I tested this relay, I noticed that something wasn't quite right. I could have ignored the problems and ploughed on regardless. Instead, I looked at things more closely - and realised that I'd be wasting my time (and everyone else's). I changed my project - it now became a fault analysis of this relay. The final outcome was that I got an excellent mark on my project. (Thinking about it years later, there could well have been a reason why the college didn't want to spend much money on a test rig for the relay - did they suspect that there might be something wrong with it? I wonder ... !)

 

There's another reason why it's easy for me to be objective (possibly even cold and calculating) - I'm not directly affected. I live at the opposite end of the country and use public transport - so I've never met you (and probably never will). One of the most useful aspects of sites like this is the chance to get things looked at by people who can recognise things, but aren't directly involved. Thankfully, some of these people know rather more than I do!

 

 

Changing the subject slightly, I hope you're able to make that open day - it's the sort of event where you'll get advice that's worth getting.

 

I don't know if Barrow Hill is within striking distance of where you are - although it's too far for me, I reckon it'll be good.

 

As there'll be a load of guys there from a major model railway magazine (ModelRail), it's likely there'll also be people who'd have some idea of where to get good info. I'm sure they must have heard of other people in a similar position to you.

 

(I'm certain they have - editors, or other people connected with magazines, sometimes go to these events to find things out for themselves. Please don't ask me how I know!)

 

The same would also be true of the people from Hornby Magazine (many of whom are on MRF) - I'm sure they've also heard of your situation.

 

(Incidentally, some of the ModelRail people are on this site - why not check out the "media" section?)

 

I wonder if either of these magazines have any plans for an advice article on this theme? (I'll have to stop thinking aloud!)

 

 

Anyway, that's enough from me for now.

 

All the best,

 

Huw.

[Huw Griffiths]

I'll grab one next time im at stax, the extesion is pretty new, it passes through a hole in the window frame into the kitchen and plugs in, nothing moves it or can knock it as its out of the way.

I hope animals can't get at it - real railways have lots of problems with rats gnawing at cables.

 

Either that, or they're just looking for yet another excuse not to bother running their advertised services, after people have paid to travel on them. I'm only 90 percent sure which version to believe!

 

Regards,

 

Huw.

[Andy Y]

Welcome aboard Ben and I'd also like to thank Huw and the other contributors to this topic as a real shining example of sound advice and a warm welcome to someone who's wandered in and engaged the site. :icon_clap: