Manning Wardle L Class 0-6-0 (Agenoria Kit)

[doilum]

And while I remember, warming the loco with a hair dryer before painting helps too.

No doubt you are about to get lots of advice on the relative merits of tarbrush,airbrush and rattle can.

[Regularity]

And while I remember, warming the loco with a hair dryer before painting helps too.

 

I have put locos in the oven, set at 50 deg C, for a few minutes to drive off any moisture and to warm the body up.

No doubt you are about to get lots of advice on the relative merits of tarbrush,airbrush and rattle can.

Use whichever you are used to, would be my advice.

If you want to try a new technique, try it out on something cheap, nasty and discardable until you have got the hang of it, not on your new engine!

 

That really is a cracking Model.

[jdb82]

Looking great. I have always found that an immediate coat of primer is required. Overnight gives shiny brass too long to start oxidizing. The same applies to soldering, reclean the contact area immediately before applying flux.

And while I remember, warming the loco with a hair dryer before painting helps too.

No doubt you are about to get lots of advice on the relative merits of tarbrush,airbrush and rattle can.

Part of the problem with an immediate coat it that I can’t really get inside the smoke box to dry it out that quickly. After being immersed in water it takes overnight to really dry it out. Maybe the oven is the way forwards as Regularity suggests above. I have some time this morning, so another quick going over with the Gariflex block, another dunk in the cleaner, a bake in the oven and then a coat of primer seems to be the order of the day.

And then the quarter finals of the Brunei Badminton open, as I actually managed to win a couple of matches yesterday

Edited March 10, 2018 by jdb82

[doilum]

I had forgotten your location. I am much closer to Barnsley. I have often delayed loco painting until we have that three day heatwave that passes for summer round here.

Not sure how an equatorial climate effects the weathering of brass..speeds it up?

[jdb82]

I had forgotten your location. I am much closer to Barnsley. I have often delayed loco painting until we have that three day heatwave that passes for summer round here.

Not sure how an equatorial climate effects the weathering of brass..speeds it up?

 

 

Haha, we certainly don't need to wait too long for that 'warm' day! To be honest though, when it comes to the weathering of brass, I've not really had anything to compare it to, as I never built a kit in the UK. From a visual perspective, I tend to have 24 hrs before I notice much of a difference in colour. The heat certainly helps with paint drying times though!

[jdb82]

True to form, I lost the badminton. I consoled myself by priming 'Hamburg', which seemed like good therapy (or at least provided me with a good excuse to get to the workbench!). 

 

Got into all the nooks and crannies, and behind all the pipework fine, and seem to have a nice smooth base coat. I did end up with some condensation being blown through the airbrush, which has discoloured the primer (on the left tank top, and the side of the right tank), but doesn't seem to have affected the surface texture at all. As the top coat will be black, I don't envisage this being a problem. Hopefully.

 

Does anyone else have a problem with condensation and airbrushes? I wondered if it was partly a product of living in a hot, humid climate?

 

 

 

 

Slightly disappointed by how many imperfections, especially with the castings, have been shown up by the primer that I hadn't spotted before painting! Close-up + primer = cruel

Edited March 11, 2018 by jdb82

[doilum]

Condensation is a problem with all air delivered paint. Have you a water trap on the compressor?

[Simond]

I added a coil of 8mm copper pipe as a condenser & trap to mine. It works, but needs to be blown through.

 

Not recommended, will buy next compressor with tank, trap & regulator.

 

But the current one works...

 

Best

Simon

[jdb82]

Condensation is a problem with all air delivered paint. Have you a water trap on the compressor?

 

Yep, although it has clearly collected quite a bit - this is a good 24hrs after use, and there was a little puddle on the floor. 

It's a pretty cheap compressor - one of Sparmax's basic models; no tank, and I'm still using the basic coiled hose that came with it. You have to take what you can find out here! Really meant for painting nails I believe....the shop assistant gave me a bit of a funny look when I bought it!

The humidity here is pretty high, and that can't help.....

I might need to limit my spraying time each session - it was only towards the end of covering the whole body I had any problems

 

[Simond]

That looks like it has a bleed valve, you can put a length of tube on the outlet, and run it into a bottle or something under your desk, and open that valve very slightly - it should hiss gently, and blow the water out continuously. (and still maintain spraying pressure)

 

If it's made for a nail bar, you'd have to assume it's going to get more use, and more continuous use than even the most determined modeller would ever subject it to.

 

best

Simon

[jdb82]

That looks like it has a bleed valve, you can put a length of tube on the outlet, and run it into a bottle or something under your desk, and open that valve very slightly - it should hiss gently, and blow the water out continuously. (and still maintain spraying pressure)

 

If it's made for a nail bar, you'd have to assume it's going to get more use, and more continuous use than even the most determined modeller would ever subject it to.

 

best

Simon

 

 

Cheers Simon, I'll give it a go. It does hiss and I do get a small puddle underneath it. 

Think it's aimed at more of a hobbyist nail painter than nail bar use though - it was only about 60 quid ;-)

[jdb82]

Back to the workbench today after a couple of weeks of craziness at work, followed by a week recuperating staring at a volcano and beach from a rather nice pool in Bali. Living this side of the world does have it's perks ;-)

 

Anyway, last news was that I'd primed the body, and just before I went away, I managed to paint the buffers, steps and cab. The cab isn't as yellow as it appears in the photo, although it's a deeper colour than intended.....needed a bit more white to make it more creamy.

 

 

Today, I masked everything (with the exception of one or two small parts.....intentionally, of course!) that isn't going to be black. Not the neatest of jobs in terms of bits sticking out all over the place, but it did do the job. 

 

 

A deep breath was taken, and on with the black coat. I can't help feeling this is probably a bit like watching your child growing up......it was all beautiful as a baby-faced brass beauty, and then it grows up.....

I knew it already, but painting was always going to be the most challenging aspect of this build for me. Whilst I'm fairly handy and practical, artwork is not my strength! I did manage to avoid any runs in the paint, which is the thing I was most concerned about.

 

 

I think she'll need another coat though, as looking at the photo below, the right side of the running plate, left as you look at the photo, hasn't had an even covering. This is something I only noticed looking at the photo - it was obviously difficult to tell with all the paint wet, and it's currently drying under it's ice cream tub to keep the dust off. Also, there are areas like under the lip of the chimney, and underneath the tank step that got missed, as by the time I thought about them, I couldn't then turn the model upside down. Ah well, learn as you go..... To steal Bucoops's signature below his posts, I still very much have my modelling L plates on. 

 

 

Now to the biggest booboo I made, which never crossed my mind before applying the black coat: when painting the cab a couple of weeks ago, I didn't mask off the windows, and a small amount of cream coloured enamel (satin) was spread onto the tank top behind one of the tank pipes. The black paint I have used is acrylic (Vallejo model air), which has otherwise covered really well. However, as we know, oil and water do not mix particularly well, and the black won't cover the cream. I'm reluctant to get the thinners out, as this might affect the surface of a wider area.... what would any wise heads out there do? 

 

 

 

[jdb82]

Unable to think of a better way, I rectified the paint mistake on the tank top by using thinners in the end.I have a couple of very fine cotton buds, and so worked away at the affected area until the paint was removed. As it also removed the primer, I reapplied this before giving the model another coat of black, cover anything I'd missed first time round. Although you can see a small 'ridge' where the old paint meets the new, I think a good job on the weathering in this area will make that disappear. Drying acrylics in the heat here doesn't take very long (touch dry at least), and so I was able to unwrap the masking to see it's basic livery together for the first time. 

 

 

 

 

Next, the coupling hook needs painting black, and the coupling links need adding, before the whole lot gets a coat of satin varnish before I weather it. 

[jdb82]

Dabbled with airbrushing the buffer beams and some weathering powders on the smokebox this morning. Whist not perfect, it's definitely given the loco a bit more of a 'used' look to it. Haven't done anything to the smokebox door yet, so still looks a bit shiny.

Not quite sure what's going to happen to the weathering powders once I varnish it; the plan is to vanish in satin first so I can add some washes more effectively, before then giving it a final matt coat of varnish to seal everything in.

 

 

[doilum]

Unable to think of a better way, I rectified the paint mistake on the tank top by using thinners in the end.I have a couple of very fine cotton buds, and so worked away at the affected area until the paint was removed. As it also removed the primer, I reapplied this before giving the model another coat of black, cover anything I'd missed first time round. Although you can see a small 'ridge' where the old paint meets the new, I think a good job on the weathering in this area will make that disappear. Drying acrylics in the heat here doesn't take very long (touch dry at least), and so I was able to unwrap the masking to see it's basic livery together for the first time. 

 

IMG_7454.JPG

 

IMG_7455.JPG

 

IMG_7457.JPG

 

Next, the coupling hook needs painting black, and the coupling links need adding, before the whole lot gets a coat of satin varnish before I weather it.

 

Removing masking tape as soon as the paint is touch dry is the recommended method. Do not leave it overnight as it may pull off the paint beneath. I was given the advice by a time served car painter as I tackled my first lambretta nearly fifty years ago.

[Simond]

I suggest that you think carefully about varnishing - if you invest time and effort in getting different colours and textures, sealing it in will diminish that, particularly the texture element

 

I never varnish my models, the paint and transfers seem to survive ok

 

Lots of different views out there of course

 

Best

Simon

[jdb82]

I suggest that you think carefully about varnishing - if you invest time and effort in getting different colours and textures, sealing it in will diminish that, particularly the texture element

 

I never varnish my models, the paint and transfers seem to survive ok

 

Lots of different views out there of course

 

Best

Simon

 

mmmm.... food for thought. 

Does the weathering powered not get worn off after a while?

[Simond]

Yes,

But it adds to the effect, and you can always add more

 

Best

Simon

[jdb82]

You know you're getting close to the end when the name plates go on :-) I made a little card template to ensure the plates were level and in the same place on both tanks. A small dab of Araldite was used to stick the plates to the tank, and held there for a few moments until the card template could be pulled away. 

 

Also installed the various elements of the cab. Now for the washes on the tanks and boiler.

 

 

 

 

[Gordon A]

Nice job.

 

Look at real working steam locos and you will see the chimney and smoke box are a grey colour due to heat.

 

Gordon A

[jdb82]

Nice job.

 

Look at real working steam locos and you will see the chimney and smoke box are a grey colour due to heat.

 

Gordon A

 

 

Thanks Gordon,

 

Just in the process of weathering her now, so will get to work with the grey weathering powders :-)

[Simond]

looking good!

 

you need to curve the roof just a little more, stop the light showing through underneath.  fingers and thumbs job...  gently!

 

the other thing is that the buffer heads look a bit conical rather than domed, might want to take a file / some emery cloth to them too. 

 

this is going to be excellent!

 

best

Simon

Edited April 3, 2018 by Simond

[jdb82]

And so comes to an end(ish) my first kit build. There are still a couple of bits to do - altering some of the weathering in a couple of places that the closeup photos have revealed to be not as intended (although I didn't see these whilst I was painting it!), and also I still need to add couplings and vacuum pipes, neither of which I can purchase here in Brunei. I may attempt to make some from scratch at some stage.

 

For a first go, I'm pretty 'chuffed' with it to be honest! Thanks for all the help and advice from everyone who has contributed - I have learnt a huge amount (and still plenty to learn)! Painting and weathering still remain top of my skills list that I need to acquire - it looks great from a distance, but not sure it would pass muster against the pros......

 

Having worked on the wheels a bit, she runs really well, on the one piece of uninterrupted straight piece of track I have. Maybe one day it can have a go on a proper layout.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next up is a Manning Wardle L Class, also from the Agenoria range. With a baby on the way, I have a deadline of mid-September to get it completed by before modelling time becomes even more restricted than it already is!

[jdb82]

looking good!

 

you need to curve the roof just a little more, stop the light showing through underneath.  fingers and thumbs job...  gently!

 

the other thing is that the buffer heads look a bit conical rather than domed, might want to take a file / some emery cloth to them too. 

 

this is going to be excellent!

 

best

Simon

 

 

Roof has been attended to - as you say, just a gentle bend with the fingers. The buffers I will smooth out - gonna be away for the next few days if all goes to plan, but will get onto it when I get back. Thanks for all your help and advice over the last few months!

[Regularity]

Nice.

 

You missed a bit.