Manning Wardle L Class 0-6-0 (Agenoria Kit)

[jdb82]

I need a diagram! Can’t do it on the iPad. I’ll try to explain;

 

Put the wires through the frames so they are sticking out further than the hangers will.

Cut the thin tube to fit between frames and back of the hangers, These will be more-or-less the thickness of the wheels in length. Depends on clearance etc.

Solder this lot up solid.

Cut away the wires between the frames if needed

Carefully trim back the sticking out wires so they are long enough for the hangers to hang on, but with not much more than the thickness of the hangers sticking out past the end of the tubes.

This provides the pivots.

 

Then solder the hangers to the stretcher beams. They should clip on and off the pivots easily, and pivot fore-and-aft easily too. But they won’t go side to side. You can lean the brake shoes against the wheels whils the solder the beams on, but but if you do, make sure you clean any flux splashes off your wheels or the dreaded rust monster starts...

 

Finally, clip all the hanger assemblies onto the chassis and solder the brake pull rods to the beams. adjust the clearance to the wheels by ensuring the rod that connects to the cylinder (or handbrake) crank is the right length. You might have to arrange this to clip in too.

 

HTH

Simon

 

 

Ahhhhaa! The lightbulb above my head has finally come on! Sorry....that took me a while. I had it in my head that the tube would go on the inside of the frame. Now it makes sense! Next job is to find some suitably sized brass tube....

[Regularity]

I need a diagram! Can’t do it on the iPad.

You just need to fork out a few quid on a decent app.

[Simond]

Nah!

 

I could have got out of bed and used TurboCAD on the computer, or gone into work, and used Solidworks, but I chose to stick with the coffee-in-bed lie-in!

 

Best

Simon

[jdb82]

Folded up the steps and soldered them together this afternoon, and attached them to the running plate. Just the lamp irons to attach, and then that's everything built up and attached. That being said, I'll need to do some work to make the cab roof detachable, and I've still the pickups to do, although that's a job for after I've painted it.

 

 

 

[jdb82]

Just been playing around with my airbrush was kindly bought for me at Christmas - first time out of the box and the first time I've ever used one. It is a thing of beauty, and very simple to use and strip down. The Agenoria kit comes with the option of making either the long or the short tank versions of the loco, and so I had a few spare etches to experiment on. 

 

To keep it über simple, I cleaned the etches up an gave them a coat of surface primer. To my delight, I got a silky smooth, even finish. I have an energy saving bulb in my lamp at the moment which seems to cast some very bright white areas of light, as well as some yellower areas - it's a much more uniform covering than it perhaps looks in the photos below.

 

My question is how much paint would you expect to use on what is essentially 2 long tanks of a model? Although I didn't fill the colour cup full, it took 2 cups of primer to cover these 4 etches. It probably amounts to about 3-4ml. It seemed to disappear very quickly - am I using far too much paint, or does that sound about right? I only brought 2 17ml bottles of primer out with me, and I'm worried I won't have enough!

 

 

Edited February 13, 2018 by jdb82

[Gordon A]

Don't forget the vacuum pipes - posts 81 & 82.

 

Gordon A

[doilum]

Almost enough here to build a clone. This is really good way to start scratchbuilding.

[doilum]

The red one is the kit. I returned from a comfort break at Telford in 2016 to find a gentleman looking somewhat perplexed at the two. I realised from his jumper that it was Pete Stamper. " the red one is yours........"

[jdb82]

Don't forget the vacuum pipes - posts 81 & 82.

 

Gordon A

 

 

Not forgotten them - they have been ordered (not part of the kit unfortunately), but post out here can take 7-8 weeks to arrive from past experience! Depending on when they do finally turn up, they may be soldered on, or they may be an Araldite addition! They'll make it on to the model at some stage though......promise.

[jdb82]

Almost enough here to build a clone. This is really good way to start scratchbuilding.

 

One step at a time! Build a few kits first, then scratch building after that! Painting is the bit I'm least sure about, so I thought using these spare bits would be could to develop a bit of confidence before tackling the real thing

[N15class]

I started with the scratch building, could not afford kits on an apprentices wage.

[Simond]

It’s certainly true that you can buy a lot of brass and a few good tools for the price of a kit.

 

But it’s the research that you get with the kit (at least the better kits) that is often forgotten in the price. If you’ve got drawings, and they’re detailed enough, and dimensioned, and a few photos, then scratchbuilding-with-purchased-components is a great pleasure, but it’s a big “IF”. If you have to chase every detail through countless books, museums, web searches, etc, you’d better be more patient than I am...

 

Best

Simon

[doilum]

Agree entirely, but cloning is a cheap way of obtaining a second loco. Using surplus parts is a good start which helps to build skills. This develops confidence to tackle more complex or challenging kits. If you are happy with the outcome you start saving up for the wheels and motor, if not use it for painting practice.

Building the clone in tandem allows you to "borrow" components before committing to expenditure.

[jdb82]

Lots of bits and pieces from the cab, and the rods cleaned up and reading for priming.

 

 

Cab pieces, rods, brake hangers and chassis after priming. Even priming is a bit of a learning curve... having practiced using a 0.2mm needle in my airbrush, I swapped to a 0.4mm needle as it kept becoming clogged up. This obviously delivers a significant amount more paint, and I ended up getting a bit of a 'drip' on the left hand end of the chassis side. At the moment, I'm unsure whether to leave it and put it down to experience, or use a fine grade of wet/dry paper and sand it down a bit. Also managed to pull a bit of the primer off the front face of one of the rods as I removed it from the paper I'd painted it on to, so will need to tend to that too.

 

[Simond]

A drop of acetone will remove any (and all) paint you’re not happy with. Probably worth having another go, rather than rubbing down.

 

Best

Simon

[jdb82]

A drop of acetone will remove any (and all) paint you’re not happy with. Probably worth having another go, rather than rubbing down.

 

Best

Simon

 

 

Thanks Simon, I'll give that a go when I'm ready to prime the loco body. Quite a bit of cleaning and polishing on that to do first mind.....

[doilum]

I would start by trying the sanding. Acetone or cellulose thinners can be plan B. Make sure it is fully dry and hard. Start with gentle use of 600 grade . Use it wet with a drop of washing up liquid. Move on to 1500 grade. One sheet each of 600, 1200 /1500, 2000 grade will last for years of loco building.

[Simond]

It’s certainly possible to sand down a drip, but my guess is that removing the paint, and respraying will be quicker & get a better finish, (and be more interesting & provide more spraying practice), even when taking into account the time to clear up afterwards.

 

Hence the suggestion.

 

Best

Simon

[Simond]

And another thought!

 

You might want to glue or solder your footplate crew to the footplate - it looks like it’s a drop-in, so that’s a practical solution

 

‘ course, you’ll need to paint them too!

 

Best

Simon

[fredwrekin]

Hello John,

I've been following this thread with interest as I'm building the same kit. I started just after Christmas, so I'm a bit behind you (not started on the boiler yet), working on the cab interior at present. Like you I'm making this as a separate assembly. May I ask how you intend to hold all the separate parts together once painted, particularly the tank extensions? Should say this is my second loco build, the first being a Connoisseur 0-4-0 which had much more comprehensive instructions. Must also say you're making a cracking job of this build.

 

cheers

 

Steve B.

[jdb82]

Hello John,

I've been following this thread with interest as I'm building the same kit. I started just after Christmas, so I'm a bit behind you (not started on the boiler yet), working on the cab interior at present. Like you I'm making this as a separate assembly. May I ask how you intend to hold all the separate parts together once painted, particularly the tank extensions? Should say this is my second loco build, the first being a Connoisseur 0-4-0 which had much more comprehensive instructions. Must also say you're making a cracking job of this build.

 

cheers

 

Steve B.

 

 

Thanks Steve! Been a bit of a learning curve for me but it all seems to be coming together quite nicely now. 

My plan for fixing the cab interior is to add short lengths of square brass bar (I think 1.5mm) to the cab walls for the drop in floor, tank extensions and backhead to butt up against. I'll then add a drop of Araldite to each one to glue them in place once everything is painted up. Not sure this is very conventional, but I didn't fancy my chances of: a) getting my soldering iron in to make a neat enough job without access from the back, and b) having enough room to paint it neatly, as space is pretty tight on these small tank engines. 

 

Just out of interest, are you building the long or short tank version?

John

[fredwrekin]

Thanks Steve! Been a bit of a learning curve for me but it all seems to be coming together quite nicely now. 

My plan for fixing the cab interior is to add short lengths of square brass bar (I think 1.5mm) to the cab walls for the drop in floor, tank extensions and backhead to butt up against. I'll then add a drop of Araldite to each one to glue them in place once everything is painted up. Not sure this is very conventional, but I didn't fancy my chances of: a) getting my soldering iron in to make a neat enough job without access from the back, and b) having enough room to paint it neatly, as space is pretty tight on these small tank engines. 

 

Just out of interest, are you building the long or short tank version?

John

I was thinking along similar lines for fixing the tanks extensions. I too am building a short tank 'Canal' class.

[jdb82]

I was thinking along similar lines for fixing the tanks extensions. I too am building a short tank 'Canal' class.

 

 

I much prefer the Canal tanks.....always think the long tanks look a bit out of proportion. 

I have a few photos of No.67 that my dad took, which although is a long tank (Sweden type), will be good for the chassis and cab details. Give me a shout if you want them. I never made it up to the KWVR to see Hamburg that I'm modelling, and have just had to make do with photos from the web.

[doilum]

Assuming footplate crew are whitemetal, drill through the heel of the boot and super glue a length of brass wire into the leg. A locating hole can be drilled from the underside of the cab and the fgure added when needed. Secure with solder and trim off with dremel. Like many other modellers I have found this to be the only truly reliable method of populating layouts.

[Simond]

on layouts,, I wholeheartedly agree, the leg spike is perfect.  On locos, i usually solder their boots to the footplate.  Unless it's plastic, then I revert to the leg spike.

 

best

Simon

Edited February 22, 2018 by Simond