RMweb Gold lezz01 Posted October 9, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 9, 2022 The reason I said use waste pipe is because it's heat resistant. Regards Lez. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie586 Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 9 hours ago, lezz01 said: The reason I said use waste pipe is because it's heat resistant. Regards Lez. Good point. I'll have to try it and see, if not then find a better way of clamping it to flask. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted October 10, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 10, 2022 Oh, and I should have said just enough heat to make it go limp, too much and it starts to curl up, and you’ve lost it. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie586 Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 Had a little go this afternoon with thinner plasticard (0.45mm ish), a lot more tape and longer in the boiling water. Left it to cool by itself rather than plonking in cold water. Come out a lot better. I now need to cut lumps of it away where it meets the clerestory, maybe I should have done that when it was flat? 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold lezz01 Posted October 10, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 10, 2022 The problem with using a thermos is that there is a vacuum gap between the inside and outside of the flask so you don't get the full heat of the water transferred to the outer case Charlie. Regards Lez. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie586 Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 14 minutes ago, lezz01 said: The problem with using a thermos is that there is a vacuum gap between the inside and outside of the flask so you don't get the full heat of the water transferred to the outer case Charlie. Regards Lez. I didn't pour the water inside, Lezz. I laid it on its side in a washing up bowl with just boiled water in. I picked the thermos because it was the only thing I had about the right diameter, straight and long enough for a 45ft coach. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ChrisN Posted October 10, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 10, 2022 1 hour ago, Charlie586 said: I didn't pour the water inside, Lezz. I laid it on its side in a washing up bowl with just boiled water in. I picked the thermos because it was the only thing I had about the right diameter, straight and long enough for a 45ft coach. I tend to use jars for short coaches and whiskey bottles for longer ones, but it is getting the right diameter and the right length. I put the water inside so I can wrap boot laces around it. (I was advised masking tape but as soon as it heats up it falls off!) 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 If it were a largeish piece of metal and you had rollers, I would say yes, cut out the areas you need to first. But with a small piece of plastic, you may struggle to create a uniform curve with bits cut out, also it is more likely to try and spring back into its flat state. 2 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie586 Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 20 minutes ago, ChrisN said: I tend to use jars for short coaches and whiskey bottles for longer ones, but it is getting the right diameter and the right length. I put the water inside so I can wrap boot laces around it. (I was advised masking tape but as soon as it heats up it falls off!) The broad gauge 10ft wide roof seems a fair bit flatter than the ratio standard ones I compared it to. A whisky bottle might still work, but I gave up drinking about 10 years ago, I'll have to ask around. The electrical tape I used started peeling but just held it in place long enough to cool down. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie586 Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 31 minutes ago, MrWolf said: If it were a largeish piece of metal and you had rollers, I would say yes, cut out the areas you need to first. But with a small piece of plastic, you may struggle to create a uniform curve with bits cut out, also it is more likely to try and spring back into its flat state. I am thinking of trying a brass roof with 3d clerestory side on the next one. I'm just not sure if the surface difference will be too obvious. I haven't got proper rollers but i find brass is a lot easier than plasticard to shape with basic tools. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 Thin metal sheet can be curved on a rubber mat with something as simple as a rolling pin or a piece of round bar and a bit of downward force as you run the roller across it. 3 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold lezz01 Posted October 10, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 10, 2022 It sure can. 2 layers of sticky back neoprene on a bit of 9mm ply or chip board and then you just roll it with a gentle pressure making sure that the rolling pin is square on to the brass sheet and the jobs a good un! Regards Lez. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie586 Posted October 11, 2022 Author Share Posted October 11, 2022 I've used my socket set on smaller pieces of brass/nickel for the various splashers, smoke box surround etc. Not tried anything as large as a roof yet though. Little bit of cutting out clerestory holes while watching telly last night. Needs a bit more but it won't be that visible so I won't go silly on it. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie586 Posted October 14, 2022 Author Share Posted October 14, 2022 Roof superglued together. Needs a tad more tidying and maybe a tiny bit of filler before priming, plus lamps etc. I'll do a test of my usual grey primer and whiteish airbrush acrylic on a scrap piece first though just to check final colour. Meant to post this the other day, I found this thread on building 7mm broad gauge coaches on Western Thunder. https://www.westernthunder.co.uk/threads/on-heathers-workbench-wider-and-longer.5065/ There's really good detail and photos and as there isn't really any instructions it's come in helpful. 4 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie586 Posted October 17, 2022 Author Share Posted October 17, 2022 Soldered a bit more to the underframe yesterday. Needs a good tidy up. A few of the spring hangers are a bit wonky, the other side is neater. The springs and axleboxes are white metal so I'll do them last. The running boards that come with the etch are very difficult to bend with the tools I've got, so I bought some plasticard angle which needs trimming to shape. Roof isn't attached yet, still needs cutting back a bit. The first class compartments are in place but you can only really see a little bit of blue seat. 7 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Gough Posted October 17, 2022 Share Posted October 17, 2022 That really looks good Charlie - I like it! 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie586 Posted October 17, 2022 Author Share Posted October 17, 2022 7 hours ago, Nick Gough said: That really looks good Charlie - I like it! Thanks Nick. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie586 Posted October 27, 2022 Author Share Posted October 27, 2022 Another small update, been testing the plasticard strip I've got for rain strips This is 20 thou x 20 thou on the spare roof I hand formed the other week. It's the smallest strip I've got, it does look a bit big but weathering might help. Slaters also do a 10 x 20 thou, ebay seems to be the cheapest place to buy just that on its own. Not sure if I need it or will get away with this. Also started chopping the angle to shape for the running boards. Still a lot more to do on the coach. 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie586 Posted October 28, 2022 Author Share Posted October 28, 2022 The broad gauge carriage dump is probably a good place to compare the roof before I blow 7 quid on more plasticard strip (Embedded Wikimedia ) Bottom left is closest to the one I'm after. They were quite prominent on the real thing. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted October 28, 2022 Share Posted October 28, 2022 It looks as though there's a lot of convertible coaches in that line up. 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie586 Posted October 28, 2022 Author Share Posted October 28, 2022 1 hour ago, MrWolf said: It looks as though there's a lot of convertible coaches in that line up. They planned for the end of broad gauge well in advance, I can't remember the date off hand but I'm sure convertibles were being built around 1885, possibly earlier. The previous generation of coaches were similar to the third line of coaches up from the bottom (or 4th line up if you count the empty track), more of a square box than the later style. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted October 28, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 28, 2022 18 minutes ago, Charlie586 said: They planned for the end of broad gauge well in advance They'd gone through the same exercise twenty years earlier with the conversion of the South Wales main line. Looking again at the "dump" photo, there must have been one or two BG engines retained for moving stock about, to get the convertibles into the works for transfer to their new underframes? 2 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie586 Posted October 29, 2022 Author Share Posted October 29, 2022 9 hours ago, Compound2632 said: They'd gone through the same exercise twenty years earlier with the conversion of the South Wales main line. Looking again at the "dump" photo, there must have been one or two BG engines retained for moving stock about, to get the convertibles into the works for transfer to their new underframes? I hadn't thought of that. I suppose a horse or two could pull a 46ft carriage to the works, but to properly shunt them they would need an engine and a spare. There must have been broad gauge rails retained within the carriage and engine works for a good few years after 1892. There's a good article on this photo, by I think John Lewis, in a broad gauge society magazine where he identifies a lot of the carriages. I ought to dig that article out. 3 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Annie Posted October 29, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 29, 2022 14 hours ago, Compound2632 said: Looking again at the "dump" photo, there must have been one or two BG engines retained for moving stock about, to get the convertibles into the works for transfer to their new underframes? Somewhere I had a photo of one of the Broad Gauge engines that had been retained for shunting Broad Gauge rolling stock. I'll have to see if I can find it. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mikkel Posted December 7, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 7, 2022 (edited) On 28/10/2022 at 15:49, Charlie586 said: The broad gauge carriage dump is probably a good place to compare the roof before I blow 7 quid on more plasticard strip (Embedded Wikimedia ) Bottom left is closest to the one I'm after. They were quite prominent on the real thing. I think of this photo as "King Solomon's mines", due to the savannah-like appearance of the landscape behind the improbable wall. So perhaps they used elephants for the shunting. It's also an interesting study in eaves panels. Edited December 7, 2022 by Mikkel Spelling 8 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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