Airbrush bath

[Rich Papper]

Hello All,

Apologies if this is posted in the wrong section, I've done a few hours of searches and hit a wall. Does anyone know what to soak a well used airbrush in - both the solvent and the container? I am quite adept at stripping mine into bits and giving it a go with an aerosol reamer, cotton buds, kitchen roll and mini bottle brushes - but it never seems to quite get everything. And of course every little bit that sticks, just gives something for new muck to stick to. I could do with something to immerse the bits in and leave it for a bit of a soak. I have tried this before - used the aerosol reamer (a lot of it!) and a takeaway container. Came back down the next morning, looked at the layer of fumes near the ceiling of my kitchen and at the gelatinous mass on the draining board, and then ordered a new airbrush. I'd really like not to do that again - but what would be strong enough? Are there certain types of plastic that can withstand it? And better options for a solvent than spraying a whole can of reamer out?

Any suggestions very gratefully received. Thanks,

Rich

 

[RichardS]

Rich - solvents and plastics are often not comfortable bed fellows so best avoided unless you know they ones in use don't react.  A glass vessel such as a pyrex bowl would be non-reactive to almost anything. (Stainless) Steel would also be an option.

 

To answer your question folk will need to you explain what paints you have been using and what might be lurking in your air-brush.

[airwimp075]

Rich,

I have no hands on experience of the deluxe materials brush magic but I seem to recall seeing a review on one of the modelling magazines attached DVDs where it was used to soak a dismantled airbrush. I believe it can be returned to it's bottle post soak prolonging it's life and making it more economical. I have no link to the company but have used other products from their ranges and I am more than satisfied with them. Here's a link I found to their website, I'm sure others outlets will stock it.

https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/gb/rc-modelling/20-brush-magic-5060243901354.html

 

Hope it helps.

Jason

[Rich Papper]

Rich - solvents and plastics are often not comfortable bed fellows so best avoided unless you know they ones in use don't react.  A glass vessel such as a pyrex bowl would be non-reactive to almost anything. (Stainless) Steel would also be an option.

 

To answer your question folk will need to you explain what paints you have been using and what might be lurking in your air-brush.

Useful advice already, thank you. Paints are predominantly Railmatch enamels, but do occasionally use Phoenix as well. I have used acrylics, but not for years and not with this airbrush. Biggest problem with airbrushing for me has always been varnish. Hate the stuff - never seem to get it mixed right, on right or cleaned right.

 

Rich

[Rich Papper]

Rich,

I have no hands on experience of the deluxe materials brush magic but I seem to recall seeing a review on one of the modelling magazines attached DVDs where it was used to soak a dismantled airbrush. I believe it can be returned to it's bottle post soak prolonging it's life and making it more economical. I have no link to the company but have used other products from their ranges and I am more than satisfied with them. Here's a link I found to their website, I'm sure others outlets will stock it.

https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/gb/rc-modelling/20-brush-magic-5060243901354.html

Hope it helps.

Jason

Will do some research on it, thank you. Suspect it will be another of those things Royal Mail won't want to handle so will have a good read in case I can pick it up at a show - unless anyone else out there has any other ideas?

 

Love RMWeb for things like this. Thanks to all, even if you're just reading past.

 

Rich

[Kylestrome]

I almost hate to say this, but really you should never let your airbrush get into the state that you need to take such drastic measures. Frequent flushing during use, and a complete strip down clean at the end of a spraying session, should be part of the routine of using an airbrush.

[idd15]

You could try ordinary household Dettol.  I was advised to use this by my brother in law who is a very good plastic modeller and a dab hand with an airbrush.  He uses Dettol to strip paint off parts which do not meet his high standards and he sprays mostly enamels.  We had a stainless steel sink which had become very stained and messed up with emulsion and acrylic paints due to a lot of decorating and college artwork going on at the same time!  Some Dettol and elbow grease and the sink was almost as good as new.

 

Might be worth checking on some of the plastic modelling forums to see what people advise there.

 

Cheers

idd

[ROSSPOP]

Hi Rich

 

I see you use enamels....good , but I can`t read what airbrush you are using.

 

Mine are Badger 200 and Badger Anthem and both are predominantly metal with Nylon seals.

I also occasionally use an  Aztec airbrush which is plastic / nylon.

 

these are the best cleaners for airbrushes. I use a 50/50 mix. WEAR A MASK.

 

 

Xylene alone is also an excellent enamel paint thinner and is quick drying.  WEAR PROTECTIVE GLOVES.

 

you always need to have a jar of the above mix to hand and spray through you airbrush between each colour change and IMMEDIATELY  after you have finished.

 

I get my cleaners off ebay..........  I get various cheap glass cooking dishes from Wilko`s.

Edited October 15, 2017 by ROSSPOP

[Mick Bonwick]

As RichardS has said above, a glass dish will be perfect. Enamel paints can be thinned with cheap white spirit and the airbrush can be flushed through during your session and cleaned out afterwards by using the same stuff.

 

As Kylestrome says above, there shouldn't be any hardened paint anywhere on the airbrush, but if you miss some (!) it can be removed using a cocktail stick dipped in isopropyl alcohol. When you take out your airbrush to use it, it should be as clean as the day it first came out of its box.

[Quarryscapes]

proper car paint thinners will do, though you'll find dried enamels the hardest to shift. Do not allow it to get on the rubber seals of the air valve though, it will destroy them. I've always found plastic ice cream tubs plenty resistant to just about every harsh chemical I use, but for jobs like this I find that taking out the nozzle and soaking that in a cap full of thinners is enough rather than the whole brush. In my Iwata airbrush the biggest paint trap seems to be the hole at the back of the paint cup where the needle comes though, you can't get in there and clean it with the needle in situ so there always seems to be a small line of paint around it that goes hard and causes the needle to jam in place if I leave it too long. 

Edited October 16, 2017 by Quarryscapes

[RexAshton]

I almost hate to say this, but really you should never let your airbrush get into the state that you need to take such drastic measures. Frequent flushing during use, and a complete strip down clean at the end of a spraying session, should be part of the routine of using an airbrush.

Not much help to the OP

[RexAshton]

I've had a Badger 200 for over twenty years and its always been flushed through with cellulose thinners (Read the safety instructions and abide by them). On the odd occasion when the contents have gone hard a good soak in the same stuff works a treat.

[Jol Wilkinson]

I agree with Rex that cellulose thinners is a good solvent for soaking out enamels, cellulose, etc. If you can strip the airbrush down so that it would fit in a glass jar with metal lid, then that would make a good container to leave the bits to soak overnight. You shouldn't need to fill the jar as the fumes will soften up any paint not immersed and a shake will usually do the job.

 

You should be able to buy cellulose thinners in a good local car spares shop ()who will also be cheaper than the likes of Halfords). If you can get "gun wash" standard thinners, this should be cheaper.

 

Check first though that your airbrush has no plastic parts, one of the reasons I have stuck with the metal Badger models.

[JeffP]

For soaking, I can recommend Wickes Paintbrush CLEANER, the blue stuff.

 

It doesn't dissolve polythene, so Tupperware type containers are fine, I even put a lid on.

 

And it's water miscible to remove it all, once done.

[tamperman36]

I have an idea for you about what to use as a bath. Thinking outside the box, how about a metal bread baking tin available from most large supermarkets or pound shops.

[wirey33]

I find that the glass jars that come wrapped around hot dog style sausages are ideal for soaking long thin things.

 

The contents are pretty acceptable too.

 

Railmatch Warning Panel Yellow is a very close match to French`s mustard; don`t get them mixed up.

[bertiedog]

As said, never let paint dry in the air brush, especially Acrylic.....always clean the gun whilst things are "wet", and use the same thinners that the paint uses.

To clean the gun take a two litre drinks bottle, and poke a hole to suit the gun into the area just short of the top, on the side, and replace the cap with a cloth.(kitchen towel is ok),

Then just blast the stuff into the,bottle, and then wipe away any thinners from the outside of the nose of the airbrush.  Adjust the needle to the coarsest position, and move it forwards to fine, this will clear the needle of build up.

The bottles in general resist cellulose thinners etc, but if it goes cloudy just make a new one. Do not leave the thinners in the bottle, dispose of them.

Stephen

[nickwood]

Not much help to the OP

It is once he's got it clean again.

[JeremyC]

Another vote for cellulose thinners (Sold in car paint places as 'Standard Thinners')

I would definitely recommend buying it from a specialist paint supplier. Halfords charge £7.50 for 500ml, but I got 5 litres for about £8.50 from a specialist.

Edited October 16, 2017 by JeremyC

[Banger Blue]

In Novembers Hornby mag, there is a review of an 'Airbrush Bath' described as a digital ultrasonic cleaner.

 

Cat no: VGT 2000, RRP £45,

 

www.airbrushes.com

 

no connection to the company etc or even an airbrush user - just saw the review in the mag and thought it sounds like what the OP is after

Edited October 16, 2017 by Banger Blue

[57xx]

Don't pay any extra for a VGT2000 if it's labelled as an "Airbrush bath" - it is just a generic ultrasonic cleaner. They can be had for around £40 from several places.

[Torper]

 They can be had for around £40 from several places.

 

And for considerably less than that from other sources.  Every now and again Lidl and/or Aldi have them, for example - I bought mine from one of them and I think it was less than £20.

 

DT

[Mick Bonwick]

The original poster uses mainly enamel paints and therefore solvent thinners. Ultrasonic cleaners at the budget end of the market are made of plastics that are not suitable for use with solvent fluids. They're fine with acrylics and acrylic thinners.

[ROSSPOP]

If you clean/ flush through your airbrush as you go along it won`t clog.... an utrasonic cleaner won`t improve on poor technique.

Most , if not all, problems mentioned on forums about airbrush use are down to FTF...Failure To Flush........  or........FTT ...Failure To Thin  the paint effectively, particularly when acrylics are involved.

 

Edited October 17, 2017 by ROSSPOP

[Torper]

The original poster uses mainly enamel paints and therefore solvent thinners. Ultrasonic cleaners at the budget end of the market are made of plastics that are not suitable for use with solvent fluids. They're fine with acrylics and acrylic thinners.

 

Although the VGT2000 mentioned above is made of stainless steel, the instructions clearly state that it should not be used with solvents "due to fumes".

 

DT

Edited October 17, 2017 by Torper