BR/WR Siphon G diagram O.62 in 4mm scale

[Marshall5]

Are there any preserved O.33s?

I believe 9 O33's survive in various states from fully restored at the SVR and Didcot to semi-derelict at the Dean Forest:

O33  #2775 (DW150028) @ NRM Shildon as above.*

         #2790 (TDW 150027 @ DFR Norchard

         #2796 restored @ GWS Didcot.

         #2926 restored @ SVR

         #2943 (DB975841) OOU @ Long Marston

         #2980 @WSR (813 fund)

         #2983 (DB975783) @ GWSR Toddington

         #2988 (ADB975783) @ DFR Parkend (813fund) semi-derelict.

         #2994 OOU @ Bodmin (road?)

 * A similar vehicle is shown here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/81799-brw-ex-gwr-siphon-in-main-line-service-1964/

Ray..

[macgeordie]

Aargh, just realised a fundamental flaw in my simplistic thinking!  The early lots for O33 had DC brake gear/handles. Not sure now many changes would be required to the underframe for this. My original idea for producing this is that it would have been a simple tweak on the CAD to remove the sliding vents form the sides to produce the new Diag. I had not intended for completely new parts to have to be created.

 

Lot 1664 of 1994/1945 build dates appear to have the same lever brake so could be ok as is. From the diagram on page 62 of Slinn/Clarke it looks like it may be a fairly simple conversion to DC gear using DC brake gear etches from other sources but would need the exact layout confirming.

Hi Ric

 

It isn't really an issue, the modifications required to put Dean Churchward brake parts onto the etch are minimal. The bigger problem is so far the level of interest to date (16th Feb) as mentioned in post 67 above, amounts to 4 people which makes it totally unviable. I'll bring the request for interest further forward on the thread later in the week, but it doesn't seem likely we will get anywhere near the minimum of 20 required to make it break even.

 

Ian

[Horsetan]

... modifications required to put Dean Churchward brake parts onto the etch are minimal. The bigger problem is so far the level of interest to date (16th Feb) as mentioned in post 67 above, amounts to 4 people which makes it totally unviable. I'll bring the request for interest further forward on the thread later in the week, but it doesn't seem likely we will get anywhere near the minimum of 20 required to make it break even....

Futile as it is, make it 5.

[MJI]

Very nice, I do have some Lima converted ones to this type, but how much for a full kit?

[The Fatadder]

Very nice, I do have some Lima converted ones to this type, but how much for a full kit?

From this thread re a possible O33, http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/131276-possibility-of-o33-siphon-g-brass-kit/&do=findComment&comment=3047961 it was 26.50 for etches and 47 for a full kit.

 

I hope an O33 does happen so get voting, I am very tempted by an ex works O62 from the first batch that i believe I am right in saying entered service in 47

[MJI]

From this thread re a possible O33, http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/131276-possibility-of-o33-siphon-g-brass-kit/&do=findComment&comment=3047961 it was 26.50 for etches and 47 for a full kit.

 

I hope an O33 does happen so get voting, I am very tempted by an ex works O62 from the first batch that i believe I am right in saying entered service in 47

 

It is O62s I would want as NNVs

[bubbles2]

I too have several Lima conversions in maroon, blue and green and may well be interested in the kit depending upon price.

[57xx]

Futile as it is, make it 5.

 

HT, Can you go back to post 67 and hit Informative so we can keep count, thanks.

[57xx]

It isn't really an issue, the modifications required to put Dean Churchward brake parts onto the etch are minimal. The bigger problem is so far the level of interest to date (16th Feb) as mentioned in post 67 above, amounts to 4 people which makes it totally unviable. I'll bring the request for interest further forward on the thread later in the week, but it doesn't seem likely we will get anywhere near the minimum of 20 required to make it break even.

 

That's good to hear about the DC gear. As Rich alluded to above, I've also put a post in the GWR special interest section to try and gather support. Lets see how we get on with numbers.

[Horsetan]

HT, Can you go back to post 67 and hit Informative so we can keep count, thanks.

 

Now stands at 7.

[NCB]

Looking at the pic in #17 above, I don't think you can tell that the louvres aren't see througth. I suspect using the etch as is with the proposed paper mask if desired inside would do fine.

 

Nigel

[bubbles2]

I came across these pictures a while ago, not mine, from this site http://www.cyber-heritage.co.uk/north_devon_line_okehampton_web_optimised/1%20%20120%20runnung%20round%20parcel%20van.html

 

 

 

 

 

 

This one is from my Flickr collection

 

http://Ex GWR Siphon at Laira 1985 in use as an Enparts van by mailrail, on Flickr

[Pete Harvey]

nice looking car in the 5th picture

[Horsetan]

nice looking car in the 5th picture

 

Ford Corsair?

[Pete Harvey]

Yup Here's mine.

 

 

 

[Horsetan]

Yup Here's mine.

 

SH100420.jpg

Would I be right in thinking that yours has a somewhat more powerful engine than standard...?

[Pete Harvey]

No it has the standard 2ltr Essex V4 which I have fully rebuilt.

 

 

 

 

It's all in bits at the moment away having all of the body & paint done (Link below in signature)

[Horsetan]

....If any members feel the diagram O.33 would be of interest to them please tick the 'informative/useful' box for this post so I can judge whether there is sufficient interest before I go to a lot of additional effort.

 

15 now.

[macgeordie]

15 now.

Hi Ivan

 

Yes and I've had a couple of members pm me who are prepared to  take more than one so it looks like it will be a goer. I'll start getting the information together, the main thing I want is information on the positions of the battery boxes as most of the photos I have show the vans after they were modified for other purposes so if you have any information on the 'as built' that would be useful. If any members can point me in the direction of drawings or photos of the earlier batches of O.33 showing underfloor details that would be most helpful too, particularly Lot 1578. I have the Jack Slinn Siphons book but it doesn't show the underfloor layout very well.

The first 2 or 3 Lots had DC brake gear and the last two had the long handle brake. Lot 1441 had 7' wheelbase heavy bogies and Lot 1578 had 9' heavy bogies which is the version I have done for the O.62 so that simplifies things. I can add additional holes in the floor at the spacing for the 7' bogie in case anybody want to do that version using the MJT bogies and side frames. It might be possible to accommodate both Dean Churchward brake gear and the long handle version but I'll have to take a closer look at that as it will require more space on the etch.

 

I have ordered all the etches and other parts for the O.62 kits members have requested and should have them in about  2 to 3 weeks.

 

Ian

[Porcy Mane]

 

Oh for a time machine.

 

https://flic.kr/p/Yt5WG1

 

If I remember rightly the pic was published in an article on Syphons by Chris Leigh many moons ago.

[57xx]

Great news Ian. I was going to say I would probably up for two as well.

 

If we are still short of the min 20 required, I'll put my money where my mouth is and cover the cost of the extra etches required to get 20.

[57xx]

If any members can point me in the direction of drawings or photos of the earlier batches of O.33 showing underfloor details that would be most helpful too, particularly Lot 1578. I have the Jack Slinn Siphons book but it doesn't show the underfloor layout very well.

 

I only have one other book with a pic in, Russell's "Pictorial Record of Great Western Coaches" which has a line drawing with no underframe details and 1 side on picture that could be of some use. I'll dig the scanner out and send it over to you.

[bubbles2]

So I received my kit from Ian almost 10 days ago. I printed out the 13 pages of instruction and studied the many pictures on the disc.

 

In the instructions, there is much reference to using a resistance soldering unit (RSU) a tool which sadly I don't own. Researching RSUs I soon found that prices start from £200 and rise to a lot more but there are various instructions on the internet on how to build your own for a lot less.

 

How long would it take me to build my own RSU, assuming I could find all the parts needed? Also put off somewhat by the information that small bits of brass could evaporate into thin air if the RSU setting was too high.  Not wanting this kit to become consigned to the kits to build sometime draw I decided to press on with my trusty 25w soldering iron.

 

At the bottom of page 10, the instructions refer to fitting the roof rain strips and it says 'ideally they need fitting with an RSU as owing to the expansion issues it will be very difficult (but not impossible) to fit them by sweating them onto the roof '. 

 

As this sounded like the most difficult part of the kit to get right without an RSU and not wanting to glue the rain stips or use the alternative method of using wire, I decided to start with this reasoning if I managed this the rest could be built using my soldering iron.

 

Anyway here are the results and I can report that all went reasonably well. I removed the rain strips from the fret before tinning the backs and applied a small amount of flux paste to the roof and rain strips, using the holes in the roof as position guides I tacked each end in the correct place before running the iron along the rain strip holding it down with a cocktail stick to stop it popping up due to expansion.

 

 

 

[timbowilts]

So I received my kit from Ian almost 10 days ago. I printed out the 13 pages of instruction and studied the many pictures on the disc.

 

In the instructions, there is much reference to using a resistance soldering unit (RSU) a tool which sadly I don't own. Researching RSUs I soon found that prices start from £200 and rise to a lot more but there are various instructions on the internet on how to build your own for a lot less.

 

How long would it take me to build my own RSU, assuming I could find all the parts needed? Also put off somewhat by the information that small bits of brass could evaporate into thin air if the RSU setting was too high.  Not wanting this kit to become consigned to the kits to build sometime draw I decided to press on with my trusty 25w soldering iron.

 

At the bottom of page 10, the instructions refer to fitting the roof rain strips and it says 'ideally they need fitting with an RSU as owing to the expansion issues it will be very difficult (but not impossible) to fit them by sweating them onto the roof '. 

 

As this sounded like the most difficult part of the kit to get right without an RSU and not wanting to glue the rain stips or use the alternative method of using wire, I decided to start with this reasoning if I managed this the rest could be built using my soldering iron.

 

Anyway here are the results and I can report that all went reasonably well. I removed the rain strips from the fret before tinning the backs and applied a small amount of flux paste to the roof and rain strips, using the holes in the roof as position guides I tacked each end in the correct place before running the iron along the rain strip holding it down with a cocktail stick to stop it popping up due to expansion.

 

DSC_0204.JPG

 

DSC_0206.JPG

A very good effort indeed. A question for Ian, really, but what would happen if you attached the rainstrips in the middle first and worked outwards towards the ends? Would this also not work?

 

Tim T

[Horsetan]

So I received my kit from Ian almost 10 days ago. I printed out the 13 pages of instruction and studied the many pictures on the disc.

 

In the instructions, there is much reference to using a resistance soldering unit (RSU) a tool which sadly I don't own. Researching RSUs I soon found that prices start from £200 and rise to a lot more but there are various instructions on the internet on how to build your own for a lot less.

 

How long would it take me to build my own RSU, assuming I could find all the parts needed? Also put off somewhat by the information that small bits of brass could evaporate into thin air if the RSU setting was too high.  Not wanting this kit to become consigned to the kits to build sometime draw I decided to press on with my trusty 25w soldering iron.....

 

.....Anyway here are the results and I can report that all went reasonably well. I removed the rain strips from the fret before tinning the backs and applied a small amount of flux paste to the roof and rain strips, using the holes in the roof as position guides I tacked each end in the correct place before running the iron along the rain strip holding it down with a cocktail stick to stop it popping up due to expansion.

 

Looks legit from here.

 

I do have a couple of RSUs in the attic, but I can't remember ever using them. It's easier having the Antex 25w to hand anyway.