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Falcon Brassworks/Jidenco L&Y Railmotor Kit


Retro_man

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Having received the etchings from Falcon Brassworks this afternoon, I am now looking for the instructions.

 

I know Jidenco instructions are not the best and I will need to make many adjustments and alterations, however they may at least help me identify what some of the less obvious parts are.

 

Also if anyone has any other useful information it will be greatly appreciated.

 

I am aware some fittings are available from Shapeways.

 

Thanks in advance,

Steve

Canada

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Edited by Retro_man
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Hi Steve, I'm looking forward to following your build, I'm interested in one of these myself. Is it a new etch? I have heard that there may have been some dimensional inaccuracies on the old etch so you might want to check against a drawing? There are some excellent photos, information and a drawing of the loco in "Lancashire and Yorkshire Railway Locomotives" by Barry Lane and a drawing of the whole vehicle in "British Railcars" by David Jenkinson and Barry Lane.

 

Cheers

Simon

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Hi Steve, I'm looking forward to following your build, I'm interested in one of these myself. Is it a new etch? I have heard that there may have been some dimensional inaccuracies on the old etch so you might want to check against a drawing? There are some excellent photos, information and a drawing of the loco in "Lancashire and Yorkshire Railway Locomotives" by Barry Lane and a drawing of the whole vehicle in "British Railcars" by David Jenkinson and Barry Lane.

 

Cheers

Simon

Hello Simon,

 

It will be some time before I get around to the build - I just made sure I got the etches while they were still available.

 

Thank you for the tips on the books - I found British Railcars on AbeBooks but the Lancashire & Yorkshire Railway Locomotives book was a little too expensive.

 

I am not too worried about minor dimensional inaccuracies as long as it looks like a Hughes Railmotor when it is finished!

 

Cheers!

Steve

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  • 3 months later...

Hi - I bought one on ebay from I guess, Granddads bottom draw, as expected only one page of the instructions were included. Here is my work in the first week of nights after work, and comments on the kit

 

The flaw with ebay is how tarnished the old parts can be, you see in the first image it took a while to clean up the parts. Lots of elbow grease and Brasso, and a dremel with a polishing bit can help.

But if you want the solder to stick, its a must. 

 

on my cork placemat I rolled the sides with a length of brass rod to give it a tumblehome  and inclined the top edges inwards to support the roof

 

The coach is basic and goes together well, but I found the ends a little challenging, there are no seating of the end to the sides, it took some thought to get end square and at the right height

I work on a bed plate of alumiium thats flat, and solder does not stick to it. (Img 4 sqaring with a set square)

 

Img 5 the loco end goes in well, but I made a dremel disk cut in the roof supports as the sides are taller

 

LOCO

I dont like how they did this, but hey, work with whats there.

To get the boiler at the right height I had to guess which parts to use, then I used a small brass rod to roll them to fit the curves of the smoke box support, trial and error, then prey and solder.

 

I think the look of the water tanks need to look square, so I used some right angle brass to make sure the tank to and sides are all at right angles, images 6 7 9

The sides are so thin they flex in the wind, so I clamped each side between a square and a lump of brass - Img 8

 

Putting the boiler to the cab front is where I went wrong, I neglected to strengthen the running plate and ended up with the boiler mounting about 1mm too high.

There are two locating lugs for the cab front, and two for the front of the smoke box. Having aligned these up and making a tack solder, inspection look good, so I went on and soldered the boiler to the cab, and mount the tanks, soldering them to the boiler sides as well.

Later I realised the running plate had flexed and when straightened, the bottom of the smoke box support was 1mm in the air. !!!

Rather than risk unsoldering and doing more damage, the Gin convinced me to leave it be. Img 13

 

So after the first week Its like this as I search RmWeb looking for ideas on how to put a motor in this damn thing....

 

 

 

 

 

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Motors are a B***h sometimes,  they never seem to fit.

This is an attempt to fit a motor / gearbox into the L&Y

- and with a small boiler like she has, there aint much room.  So after looking at all sorts of combinations available to me, this was the closest.

 

BUT, and help me here, the motor hits the smoke box door, so I have to back the motor out 2mm ish

not so much of a problem, but I now think putting the cylinder blocks on will bring them away from the front of the loco,   ie they will be (in scale) 6 to 12 inches back

 

Anyone got an idea here ?

 

the last image shows how the motor chasis is too close to the back.

 

Apart from that, it looks like it will work.

 

 

 

 

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DS10 in a DS10 single stage 40:1 gearbox. the exposed shaft cut off. Fits a treat.

In 25 years I've had to replace the motor once when it wore out.

I realise the bottom of the boiler has to be cut away, but from my viewing distance I don't care!!

The chassis is mine. I used the highly scale Falcon valve gear and dress making pins. It is not complete 'cos, as bits wear out they drop off, it dosen't affect the running, which is stella. I have the option of replacing the valve gear with some more Falcon 'gear or a complete Blacksmith railmotor chassis. Not for a while yet. 

The loco body and the coach are the work of Mike Wiltshire, one Coachbogie of this parish. He got fed up with me producing the running chassis and saying I actually got this to work!!! He took it and the kit away and produced this!

One of the best Christmas presents I ever had!!

He panelled the sides as per the prototype in its last years and scratched the corridor end.

I think she is epic!!!

Oh yes, the crossheads are the two Falcon sides, a spacer mounted on brass square. The piston rod is a piece of brass rod soldered to this.

25 years, still working. I amaze myself most of the time!!!

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Thanks for the heads up on the valve gear. I made a start on it last night trying to figure how it went together, and decided to have a Gin instead.

 

I will do a google and look for the Falcon valve gear, do you know if its still made ?

 

And thanks for the additional photos.     If its not too much trouble could you do me a close up of the vale gear.

 

Kevin

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If you are still struggling with fitting a motor, whilst not as good as a RG4 and gearbox. How about either a gearbox from High Level or one of their motor bogies linked to a smaller motor, saving the RG4 for a loco which may do some shunting

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I doubt if you can get the valve gear fret now. To be honest, you could just as easily use a set of Jameson LMS gear or the Blacksmith GWR steam railmotor chassis.

I realsie that both of those are difficult to come by, sorry!

I'll endeavour to send you closeups of the remaining valve gear on my old lady today when I have time.

                                          Chris.

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Thanks for the heads up on the valve gear. I made a start on it last night trying to figure how it went together, and decided to have a Gin instead.

 

I will do a google and look for the Falcon valve gear, do you know if its still made ?

 

And thanks for the additional photos.     If its not too much trouble could you do me a close up of the vale gear.

 

Kevin

 

The kit I received from Falcon Brassworks last November (see post #1 above) included the valve gear etch - you could ask Samantha if it is available separately.

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<sandhole> Thanks

<retro man> Perhaps I have confused you, I have the fret, but its not clear to me how it fits together, nor how it attaches to the frame.

I think sandhole' s suggestion of the GWR railmotor might be a good place to find how it should assemble.

 

Thanks all

K

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<sandhole> Thanks

<retro man> Perhaps I have confused you, I have the fret, but its not clear to me how it fits together, nor how it attaches to the frame.

I think sandhole' s suggestion of the GWR railmotor might be a good place to find how it should assemble.

 

Thanks all

K

Sorry for my confusion.

 

I have the Jidenco instructions - not sure if you have them - but there is not much there in any case. Samantha at Falcon Brassworks did say they will email kit instructions if anyone needs them - perhaps they have been improved :-)

 

The Jidenco sketch does not show the coupling rod.

 

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Thank you for posting photos of your build, they will help me when I start on mine.

 

Steve

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Sadly looks like another range has all but ceased trading, as the person running the company has more pressing calls on her time. I think that comments from some members has bought the conclusion that its impossible to run a business when having extremely pressing and time consuming family commitments do not go hand in hand. 

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Thankfully, the Blacksmith's LNWR's Railcar had a much easier power bogie to build.

 

Only if building an 00 model. Likewise, the motor around which it was designed in not readily available now.

 

Not really relevant anyway as it is now in the hands of Coopercraft, so probably not available.

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two part rant

one - thanks retro man, I do have the image of what it looks like,  I was looking at the parts on the workbench and thinking....  There should be a frame that goes from port to starboard holding the pistons, making alignment points for the pins to hold the motion at some places.... 

Well, maybe not.

 

Like its said, find a similar motion (GWR Railmotor)   and learn.

 

<GRIN>

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