Great Southern Railway (Fictitious) - Signalling the changes...

[Regularity]

Depends what you mean by “plastic” (which is technically a property and not a material!)

 

Rowmark is one brand name of a suitable material.

[Skinnylinny]

Indeed, but Rowmark in thin (i.e. less than 1mm thick) sheets is rather expensive and I've tried a few brands of plasticard (with supervision) - Javis and Slaters and Plastruct, all of which failed to cut neatly. Card is easily and cheaply acquired!

[Skinnylinny]

Just a quick note to let people know that I probably won't be posting any updates for a while due to personal circumstances.

I hope you'll all understand.

[sem34090]

We're with you Linny.

 

Take all the time you need.

[Skinnylinny]

Well, I think I've recovered a bit. 

 

My flatmate and I are remarkably close - we've lived together for nearly four years now, and people comment that we interact like an old married couple, to the extent that we often refer to ourselves as "husband" and "wife". I have been almost adopted into the family by her parents, to the extent that the 5" gauge loco that I am working on was simply sent up to Edinburgh by her father on a trust basis, and I have been invited down to the parents' several times to "play" with the father's (12":1 foot) steam roller (a beautiful 1899-built Aveling and Porter 12-ton roller which he restored in their house's driveway).

 

Unfortunately, on Sunday night, she got a phone call that her father had been taken to hospital in an ambulance after a heart attack, and she and her brother were summoned home immediately. Sadly, he passed away during the morning of Monday, surrounded by his family.

 

As you can imagine, my flatmate has been very greatly affected by this, and (not wanting to belittle her suffering) it has also had a very deleterious effect on my mental health and moods. I'm starting to come back again with the kind help of several friends here in Edinburgh.

 

I've managed to distract myself somewhat with a little modelling during my less-dark times, with work continuing on the SE&CR push-pull. Hopefully there will be more photographs of this set taken over the weekend, once the beading is applied to the driving third.

 

 

For the 0-gauge modellers, I've managed to finish modifying the Condensed Milk Van drawings, and this has now had a test-cut, being designed to fit a Progress Products chassis and one of Tony Funnell's replica Hornby tinplate roofs. 

 

 

Finally, being inspired by Annie's work in the Virtual Pre-Grouping thread, I've downloaded a copy of Trainz 2009 for the times when I've not been able to get up and about, and have slowly been figuring out the program to create a small layout based on Linton (GSR), to get a feel for how the station can be operated. It seems to be possible to get quite a brisk service, but I'm still playing around with track plans a little.

 

 

More details of what I've been up to will follow, probably either tomorrow or over the weekend. 

 

It's good to be back!

[Edwardian]

Linny, very sorry to hear your sad news.  I am sure everyone here would wish to extend their sympathy and support. 

 

The ex-LCDR coaches look superb.  Also very clever of you to test your layout with a simulator; does n this mean we can expect a LB&SCR C Class on the 3D layout in due course?

[Skinnylinny]

Perhaps a GSR one, but probably not an LB&SCR one! I can just imagine the howls of anguish from the Men in Umber!

[RedGemAlchemist]

Sorry for your loss Linny. My heart goes out to you as well as your roommate and her family.

 

As for your modelling work, excellent as always.

Edited June 14, 2018 by RedGemAlchemist

[sem34090]

As I said via other channels I knew we'd all be with you, and the others are proving this!

 

The Men in Umber are always there... you may not see them, but they are omnipresent...

[Annie]

I'm sorry it's been a difficult time Linny and my heart goes out to your flatmate.

 

Playing Trainz certainly helps me when I'm feeling blue and I am absolutely drop jaw delighted with that picture you posted of your GSR layout.  I hope you will post more pictures of your lovely layout as it really does look great.

 

The 'condensed milk van' is wonderful.  I can see that becoming very popular once word gets around.  My own coarse scale 'O' aspirations have stalled once more, but a kit of the milk van will still be on my shopping list once you're released it for sale. 

 

Those SE&CR coaches have turned out beautifully and I can see them becoming very popular too.

[Skinnylinny]

Thank you all for the supportive comments. 

 

Annie, I dare say there will be more pictures of that layout coming soon - I'm undecided whether they belong in this thread or Virtual Pre-Grouping. At the moment the only scenic section is that around the station, with a road atop the retaining wall on three sides! I'm still very much finding my way with Trainz, but having lots of fun. If only I could work out how to hide the point levers that keep popping up in the middle of adjacent tracks! I'm still having trouble adjusting to the way Trainz handles terrain. 

 

I'm delighted with the milk van, and there will certainly be more news forthcoming about that soon. 

I hope to get some finalising work done on the SECR Push-Pull Set over the weekend, although not much is likely to happen on Saturday - it's Edinburgh Pride so I'll be going marching. That said, I may end up at the Hacklab as a nice quiet respite after all the noise!
The main trouble I'm having is finding suitable buffers. I see that Markits offer sprung ones, but only in one length. With these coaches being close-coupled in a set, I'll have to see what I can do to replicate the shorter ones within the set.

[Annie]

Point levers can be reversed to be on the other side of a point where there's a conflict with a neighbouring running line Linny. There are representational point rodding operated 'levers' available on the DLS as well which work well around stations or anywhere point levers wouldn't have been used and these can provide a solution as well.  If you want to drive yourself nuts you can even lay in the point rodding back to the signal box.

 

The landscape editor in Trainz can be a bit coarse in the way it operates as it works off the underlying grid on the virtual layout board and sometimes it created knots with itself which can be annoying.  Practice with the tools is the key and watch the sensitivity setting you're using as with it set too high changes can happen in unwanted and dramatic ways.

Edited June 15, 2018 by Annie

[Skinnylinny]

So, after a long march through the rain (this is Edinburgh, after all!), I retreated from the noise and hubbub into the Hacklab. The driving third of the push-pull has had its body built, and the beading applied. With so many layers of beading details, the corners aren't quite perfect, but I'm not sure if this is due to my build or a design issue. I don't know if these corners would be acceptable.

 

 

 

 

I'm still figuring out buffers, and I'm considering whether the Replica Mk1 coach underframe detailing sprues might be an easy way to provide the underframe detail - £1.95 gives two battery boxes and a dynamo which should be suitable for one coach, I think. As for the buffers, I'm wondering if the old Hornby plastic push-in buffer heads or maybe something from Markits might work.

[BlueLightning]

Looks good to me Linny!!

 

Can't wait for these to be available

 

Gary

[Skinnylinny]

Well, going on to something not laser-cut for a change... I have, for a while, liked the idea of mounting a camera in a model train, to give a driver's eye view, but I don't like having to unplug cameras, charge them, dismantle them to take out SD cards etc. However, on eBay for £15 I found this, which is a rather interesting bit of kit...

 

 

Sold as a "spy cam", which comes with its own lithium battery (providing an impressive 5 hours of video on a full charge!), the lens and camera part of this is impressively tiny:

 

The camera certainly seems to have a decent-quality image, but what really sold it to me is the antenna - the camera will broadcast over wifi to an app on a smartphone or tablet, giving an almost-live (there's about a half-second delay) video. While the battery is a bit too large to fit into a 4mm scale coach (I measure it at 40mm wide, 88mm long and 5.5mm thick) it should be possible to use two or three smaller Li-Po batteries, secreting these and the circuit board and antenna in the roof of a 4mm DMU, with the camera lens inconspicuously attached to the cab bulkhead. My plan is to use the bogie pickups on the Bachmann class 108 DMU (not exactly pre-grouping, but this is a prototype!) to provide power to a battery-charging circuit, thus hopefully allowing the camera to operate nearly indefinitely while being driven - the battery charges off 5V, although a bridge rectifier plus a 7805 voltage regulator will need about 8.5V to charge the battery. This should be an interesting project!

Oh, and a mugshot of me, taken with the camera while experimenting...

[Skinnylinny]

Well, it all fits quite nicely in the roof, although the circuit board gets a little warm (which can be felt through the roof - one to keep an eye on!), and while the video quality isn't *great*, that may partly be due to fingerprints/smudging on the windscreen. I'll take the whole thing apart again when I get home tonight, clean everything, and reassemble while wearing gloves. A disadvantage at the moment is that I have to remove the body to switch the unit on or off, and I've had to remove the lighting PCB from the roof (not that the interior lighting was even visible) which means the destination board no longer lights up. I've had to nibble away at the top of some of the vestibule dividers, but that isn't visible once the body is assembled.

 

 

 

And one of the inside of the body, where the parts are simply hot-glued in place:

 

 

I took a little video but I've smudged the windscreen so it's a bit blurry. I'll give everything a clean and try again later.

 

https://vimeo.com/275701664

 

edit: added this video: https://vimeo.com/275709869

Edited June 18, 2018 by Skinnylinny

[Andy Hayter]

Most of the videos I have seen like this have used the camera mounted on a flatbed wagon propelled by the motive power.

Presumably this avoids the problems of heat build up and distorted/hazy vision through the glazing.

[Skinnylinny]

Indeed this is the case - I've found that the heat isn't getting to the level of softening the plastic, and the wiring will shortly be modified to build in an on/off switch on the underside of the driving trailer, thus limiting the time spend producing heat. 

Cleaning the glazing with a very soft cotton bud and some cleaning solution has helped a little, but I am considering carefully cutting out that pane in the centre and replacing it with some actual glass, which would hopefully be less scratch-prone and also remove the distortion around the edges due to the prismatic effect of the moulded flush-glazing. The reason I'd like to keep the camera in a realistic body is that I'd like to use this at exhibitions with the club's layouts, and a camera on a flat wagon being propelled by a locomotive does look a little odd - not ideal for exhibition use!

[JCL]

Hi Linny

 

I've not been on RMWeb much recently and haven't had much time to browse at all. I've been into the Pre-Grouping section today and saw your posts on laser cut coaches I think you've done an amazing job there.

 

I've been putting together laser cut coaches myself and have used the tab and slot construction for GNR 6-wheelers to go with the upcoming Stirling Single, some bogie coaches (GNR and a GCR Barnum coach) and a GNR clerestory milk van. I'm currently looking at bogies in 1mm mdf, and they are coming out pretty well.

 

As you mentioned, I've also found that using tab and slot is definitely the way to go, I agree with you, you just can't put them together out of square! Initially I was using mount card and greetings card thickness material for the sides, but now materials I use are 1.5mm mdf for the base, 1mm mdf or mounting card for the side carcass, and I've just started using oiled board for the outer sides and panelling. I get the mdf whenever I travel to the UK from 4D Models in London - quite a way from you I'm afraid. Mike Trice introduced me to the oiled board and I like the fact that it is cheap, strong, cuts cleanly, doesn't warp and can be painted easily. I think you can get it from HobbyCraft. Its main constituent part is Manila card. I'm in Canada (currently being bombarded by hummingbirds) so this might not be available in the UK, but the glue I use is called Elmer's Probond Max, and I've not had problems with warping at all. To really make sure I don't have any problems, I glue my sides as shown in the photo below when I was using card - bulldog clips clipping onto a card brace to stop crushing. I've found that I have proper contact the entire length of the glued area.

 

 

Looking at your parts, we have taken part in parallel evolution, and I can see that yours would be very quick to put together - the main sticking point - ahem - would be waiting for the glue to dry.

 

You might not want to go this far, but I also produced seating and underframe details out of card and MDF (see below) - the tanks are donuts strung together on a cocktail stick. My downfall was also the buffers, especially as the Barnum ones have an integrated step, but I've found that using Shapeways I can produce 16 for $5. I may be able to get more on a sprue, but I only needed 16 for myself. 

 

 

I think what you're doing is brilliant and I've pressed the follow button to see how it all works out.

 

cheers

 

Jason

 

 

[Skinnylinny]

Thank you for the post, Jason, and welcome to this strange part of RMWeb! I'll have to have a closer look at your drawings once I'm home and have a screen bigger than a mobile phone.

 

I've given up and removed the cab front glazing from my DMU for now. The difference in the video quality is startling.

 

Edited June 19, 2018 by Skinnylinny

[RedGemAlchemist]

 

Hi Linny

 

I've not been on RMWeb much recently and haven't had much time to browse at all. I've been into the Pre-Grouping section today and saw your posts on laser cut coaches I think you've done an amazing job there.

 

I've been putting together laser cut coaches myself and have used the tab and slot construction for GNR 6-wheelers to go with the upcoming Stirling Single, some bogie coaches (GNR and a GCR Barnum coach) and a GNR clerestory milk van. I'm currently looking at bogies in 1mm mdf, and they are coming out pretty well.

 

As you mentioned, I've also found that using tab and slot is definitely the way to go, I agree with you, you just can't put them together out of square! Initially I was using mount card and greetings card thickness material for the sides, but now materials I use are 1.5mm mdf for the base, 1mm mdf or mounting card for the side carcass, and I've just started using oiled board for the outer sides and panelling. I get the mdf whenever I travel to the UK from 4D Models in London - quite a way from you I'm afraid. Mike Trice introduced me to the oiled board and I like the fact that it is cheap, strong, cuts cleanly, doesn't warp and can be painted easily. I think you can get it from HobbyCraft. Its main constituent part is Manila card. I'm in Canada (currently being bombarded by hummingbirds) so this might not be available in the UK, but the glue I use is called Elmer's Probond Max, and I've not had problems with warping at all. To really make sure I don't have any problems, I glue my sides as shown in the photo below when I was using card - bulldog clips clipping onto a card brace to stop crushing. I've found that I have proper contact the entire length of the glued area.

 

 

 

Looking at your parts, we have taken part in parallel evolution, and I can see that yours would be very quick to put together - the main sticking point - ahem - would be waiting for the glue to dry.

 

You might not want to go this far, but I also produced seating and underframe details out of card and MDF (see below) - the tanks are donuts strung together on a cocktail stick. My downfall was also the buffers, especially as the Barnum ones have an integrated step, but I've found that using Shapeways I can produce 16 for $5. I may be able to get more on a sprue, but I only needed 16 for myself. 

 

 

 

 

 

I think what you're doing is brilliant and I've pressed the follow button to see how it all works out.

 

cheers

 

Jason

 

 

 

Welcome to the Pre-Groupers, Jason! Put your feet up, make yourself at home, and let us... probably both please you with our modelling work and confuse you with the rambling that goes on in-between.

 

Thank you for the post, Jason, and welcome to this strange part of RMWeb! I'll have to have a closer look at your drawings once I'm home and have a screen bigger than a mobile phone.

 

I've given up and removed the cab front glazing from my DMU for now. The difference in the video quality is startling.

 

 

Like that layout, Linny. That's really pretty IMHO. Very bleak and wild, love that.

Edited June 19, 2018 by RedGemAlchemist

[Skinnylinny]

Thank you! Sadly neither mine nor 00 scale! It's the club's 0-16.5 layout, Talybont.

[Annie]

I do like your 'Barnum' Jason.  A very nice model indeed.

[JCL]

Thanks Annie. Sorry Linny for hijacking for a second, but if you would like the plans for the Barnum, they're on my thread in my signature (latest couple of pages) - feel free to do what you like with them.

[Skinnylinny]

 

Hi Linny

 

I've not been on RMWeb much recently and haven't had much time to browse at all. I've been into the Pre-Grouping section today and saw your posts on laser cut coaches I think you've done an amazing job there.

 

I've been putting together laser cut coaches myself and have used the tab and slot construction for GNR 6-wheelers to go with the upcoming Stirling Single, some bogie coaches (GNR and a GCR Barnum coach) and a GNR clerestory milk van. I'm currently looking at bogies in 1mm mdf, and they are coming out pretty well.

 

As you mentioned, I've also found that using tab and slot is definitely the way to go, I agree with you, you just can't put them together out of square! Initially I was using mount card and greetings card thickness material for the sides, but now materials I use are 1.5mm mdf for the base, 1mm mdf or mounting card for the side carcass, and I've just started using oiled board for the outer sides and panelling. I get the mdf whenever I travel to the UK from 4D Models in London - quite a way from you I'm afraid. Mike Trice introduced me to the oiled board and I like the fact that it is cheap, strong, cuts cleanly, doesn't warp and can be painted easily. I think you can get it from HobbyCraft. Its main constituent part is Manila card. I'm in Canada (currently being bombarded by hummingbirds) so this might not be available in the UK, but the glue I use is called Elmer's Probond Max, and I've not had problems with warping at all. To really make sure I don't have any problems, I glue my sides as shown in the photo below when I was using card - bulldog clips clipping onto a card brace to stop crushing. I've found that I have proper contact the entire length of the glued area.

 

Looking at your parts, we have taken part in parallel evolution, and I can see that yours would be very quick to put together - the main sticking point - ahem - would be waiting for the glue to dry.

 

You might not want to go this far, but I also produced seating and underframe details out of card and MDF (see below) - the tanks are donuts strung together on a cocktail stick. My downfall was also the buffers, especially as the Barnum ones have an integrated step, but I've found that using Shapeways I can produce 16 for $5. I may be able to get more on a sprue, but I only needed 16 for myself. 

 

I think what you're doing is brilliant and I've pressed the follow button to see how it all works out.

 

cheers

 

Jason

 

I've now had a chance to have a proper look through your photos, and they're very impressive! How do you find the oiled board for rigidity against the mount board? I find that the mount board is still slightly too soft at edges for my tastes - it holds up well enough but I don't know how long it'll last.

 

Your underframe equipment looks very nice and fine, especially your brake V hangers/vacuum cylinders. What material did you use for these? Is it also the 1mm MDF?

 

Thank you for the advice on 1mm MDF - I'm actually in London for a week next month, and I will certainly pop into 4D and pick up several sheets of it.

 

 

 

Going back to the SE&CR push-pull sets... unfortunately, after assembling the rest of the detailing around the chassis, the coaches... fell off at every set of points and some plain-track curves. I'm going to have to do a re-design on the chassis. Given the nature of these coaches, I want to be sure that they run reliably being both pushed and pulled. I think the issue lay in glue getting into places it shouldn't have done, but if I, the designer, can't get the chassis to work nicely, I'm not going to release it on the unsuspecting public. If I'm able to get the 1mm MDF while I'm down in London, I may consider re-designing the chassis in wood, which should have more rigidity than the card. If this works, I will also do the same with the Stroudleys (and happily supply previous buyers who want them with the new chassis free-of-charge, as long as they turn out better than the card ones!)