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Hand controller for testing Loco's


tender
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I came into model railway a few years ago and plumped straight for DCC control.

However whenever i buy a new loco i have to faff around getting a bench power supply out, length of track etc to test the loco on DC before fitting a decoder. I'm always aware that a slip of the hand on the voltage knob of the power supply could apply 36V to the track probably destroying the motor.

So i've decide to make a small DC shunting plank specifically for testing new Loco's and photographing my collection.

 

For this i will need a DC hand controller and i'm thinking of the Gaugemaster COMBI as it comes with Wall Wart power pack and can be picked up fairly cheaply (£35).

 

Is there anything else out there that i should consider?

 

 

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I came into model railway a few years ago and plumped straight for DCC control.

However whenever i buy a new loco i have to faff around getting a bench power supply out, length of track etc to test the loco on DC before fitting a decoder. I'm always aware that a slip of the hand on the voltage knob of the power supply could apply 36V to the track probably destroying the motor.

So i've decide to make a small DC shunting plank specifically for testing new Loco's and photographing my collection.

 

For this i will need a DC hand controller and i'm thinking of the Gaugemaster COMBI as it comes with Wall Wart power pack and can be picked up fairly cheaply (£35).

 

Is there anything else out there that i should consider?

Certainly you need to avoid 36 Volts to any 12 Volt model, or the smoke that makes it work will escape!

 

Sounds like a good choice to me.

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Batteries especially rechargables pack a considerable punch and can make motor wires glow red hot (I melted a class 37 body once) if shorted so the pragmatic solution is as outlined by Crossland above.

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I use a rolling road on a short length of track fed from the motor terminals of a decoder. 

 

That's a neat solution until one shorts across the track/rolling road with an accidentally dropped metallic item. Another culprit is the metal chassis block of a Hornby 31 that can short across the wheels if it isn't level on the track/rollers as there is so little clearance between the wheels and chassis

 

This subject of a cheap DC controller (for those that are DCC users) was partly discussed here

 

 I can't find Dagworth's solution of a battery pack and potentiometer.

 

(edited for clarity)

 

Cheers,

Mick

Edited by newbryford
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 I can't find Dagworth's solution of a battery pack and potentiometer.

 

 

I don't think it was anything of mine, I use either a Duette or an old Lima trainset controller when I want to run something in.

 

Andi

Edited by Dagworth
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I don't think it was anything of mine, I use either a Duette or an old Lima trainset controller when I want to run something in.

 

Andi

 

Ah - Ok ANdi, thanks for the clarification - I thought it was you with a simple/cheap solution (maybe another fellow DEMU-er then?)

 

Cheers,

Mick

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I do use a rolling road but remain well aware that a loco running on one is only supporting its weight, not dragging ot around a track.

I had an old tired ringfield diesel that ran beautifully on the RR but couldn't pull itself around the track.

I have a few old analogue controllers that I can use if I need to run a pre-chipped loco, in fact one runs the DC tram shuttle at the far end of the board, but find the 9v battery is an instant option when applied to the wheels of an upturned loco in hand.

Rob

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