Jump to content
 

TSD's Workbench - SECR and Industrial modelling


Recommended Posts

On 28/07/2022 at 14:01, TurboSnail said:

Not sure on that one - on that particular design, with the wheels very close to the ends, it would have more bending force from the load than most wagons where the wheels are proportionally further inboard. But if it had pre-tensioning on the bottom of the solebars or something it could potentially bow up as the wood deteriorated. I'm no wagon construction expert...

 

However, I can confirm in this case that the sag is entirely accidental - a result of incorrect settings and curing of the 3D print!

Blame it on the hot weather.

 

All the best

Ray

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

A project that I've wanted to do for probably a decade at least, the old Golden Arrow Maunsell Diesel resin cast kit. I recently found a Bachmann 08 with enough body damage to make it cheap, but still runs really nicely (thanks to the huge motor and flywheel, 'biggest motor that will fit' might be the modelling equivalent of 'no replacement for displacement').

 

The resin castings show their age a bit, but can be cleaned up well enough with a bit of sanding and filler in the right places. Various handrails and footsteps added, as well as a rudimentary cab interior, and I couldn't really have given it any other number, could I?! Bit of weathering and some glazing and it should be good to join the fleet.

 

Speaking of weathering, anyone know where the exhaust was on these locos?

 

IMG_20220730_105714.jpg.7f3cbb05f85a3da92d7293a2acf89cb5.jpg

  • Like 12
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, TurboSnail said:

Speaking of weathering, anyone know where the exhaust was on these locos?

Same as on the other 350hp shunters, at the front left.

  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, TurboSnail said:

A project that I've wanted to do for probably a decade at least, the old Golden Arrow Maunsell Diesel resin cast kit. I recently found a Bachmann 08 with enough body damage to make it cheap, but still runs really nicely (thanks to the huge motor and flywheel, 'biggest motor that will fit' might be the modelling equivalent of 'no replacement for displacement').

 

The resin castings show their age a bit, but can be cleaned up well enough with a bit of sanding and filler in the right places. Various handrails and footsteps added, as well as a rudimentary cab interior, and I couldn't really have given it any other number, could I?! Bit of weathering and some glazing and it should be good to join the fleet.

 

Speaking of weathering, anyone know where the exhaust was on these locos?

 

IMG_20220730_105714.jpg.7f3cbb05f85a3da92d7293a2acf89cb5.jpg

Hi Mr Snail.

 

I have one of those old kits put by in the maturing cupboard as well.

 

I think that there were some differences in the wheels/cranks/rods etc when compared with the 08 and 09, but I cannot remember what they are. Looks good to me.

 

All the best

Ray

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Tom, 

 

That freelance BP 2-4-0T is rather delightful - would it be possible to ask for the key measurements please as I'm wondering now about a scratchbuilt 7mm version. 

 

Thanks,

 

Neil

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, NeilHB said:

That freelance BP 2-4-0T is rather delightful - would it be possible to ask for the key measurements please as I'm wondering now about a scratchbuilt 7mm version. 

 

Not precisely, as I made them up! Can't remember everything off the top of my head, but it's 4ft drivers and a 2ft8in lead wheel (though I think it would be better with a 3ft leading wheelset). Boiler approx. 4ft 6in diameter and 22ft 6in over bufferbeams.

 

Detailwise, it's based largely off the EWJR Beyers, no. 5 and 6, just much smaller: 

More info and some good pics here: https://www.warwickshirerailways.com/lms/smj_locos.htm

number-5-orig2.jpg

  • Like 5
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

The prototype (details also found here, which was used as source material for Warwickshire Railways - with my consent and cooperation) had 5’6” drivers, and 4’ leading wheels.

 

BP built smaller versions of this same basic design, minus the outside leading axleboxes, for the Isle of Wight Railway and a smaller one for the Isle of Wight Central Railway.

  • Like 2
  • Informative/Useful 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
33 minutes ago, TurboSnail said:

Two more wagons joining the fleet, I was originally planning to sell the lot, but I'm keeping the two Open As

 

Oh dear I've got a couple of your Open As from early in lockdown still in the not-quite-finished pile...  Apologies.

 

Rapido's re-announcement of the E1 in goods green should be spurring me on to sort out my Brighton goods stock.

  • Like 2
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I may have to nab an E1 myself - doubt it'd stay standard for very long though...

 

Don't know what it is about me and chopping up Brighton locos, most of the Terrier's I've had have ended up being made into something else too.

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

The recently completed, and now weathered and glazed, Maunsell 350hp. The kit is a bit old now, but still worth tackling with a bit of patience and filler!

 

IMG_20220809_081653.jpg.018032be845ec171c9823344060f0d64.jpg

 

And with some other recently completed and weathered wagons

 

IMG_20220809_081344.jpg.3b351d6ef5f989dc7006551b37b7c185.jpg

  • Like 8
  • Craftsmanship/clever 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Things are a tad quiet at the moment, but various projects are progressing - including making another Grant Ritchie 0-4-2st, after I regretted selling my earlier one. I'd got this far through the build using a 14" Hattons Barclay donor, but I've just managed to get hold of a 16" loco with a broken cab for a reasonable sum... The 16" version has the bigger tank and cylinders that would make it a bit more accurate, so I think I'm going to have to dismantle this one, somehow swap the cylinders onto the modified chassis and the tank onto this footplate and cab assembly. And hopefully I'll be able to do it neatly and can reassemble a 14" Barclay again from all the leftover bits! Since I'm not going to the trouble of making new wheels for it, or putting the cylinders in the correct position (they should be lower than the Hattons chassis position, and horizontal), is it worth it? Or have I finally gone mad 😆

 

image.png.2a9bf18236bffe3681fa1fdf0378a3c3.png

  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Caley Jim said:

Have you looked at the Tramfabriek ones? http://tramfabriek.nl/. Although it's an 'nl' Web address he's based in the UK. 

 

I do have a few of their motors in other projects, they seem pretty good but even one of their motors would be too big for this Sentinel, so I've got a Tsugawa RTR chassis to go under it.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 04/09/2022 at 06:08, AlfaZagato said:

First you had my attention.   Now you have my interest.   N scale?   These little 100hp Sentinels were neat.   Your print, or from Newman?   I think I saw he had done one of these.

 

Yep, in N - my own version - uses a slightly different chassis so the motor doesn't sit in the cab.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

After reducing a couple of Barclays to a big pile of bits, the Grant Ritchie 0-4-2st has been rebuilt with the larger tank and cylinders from the 16", but the footplate from the 14". Looks a bit better now it's chunkier.

 

And now I have the task of re-assembling all the leftovers into something!

 

IMG_20220904_140024.jpg.24f42f5d508714b26f537c2b87de7254.jpg

 

IMG_20220904_221421.jpg.4948cf5c9f562ef6715429c06f10db8a.jpg

  • Like 9
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Modelling efforts have been a bit quiet recently, but here's the second ROD green P Class I've repainted into no. 27 in grey in as many months - I made one, had to sell it to fund car repairs, and regretted it. Shortly afterwards, Hatton's were flogging them cheap, so I had another go! And I'm keeping it this time...

 

It's has the cab doors removed to show off some of the interior detail, some of the moulding lines filed off, and the section of the tanks that goes under the boiler cut out, which I think helps the tanks look a little more like separate parts. Also renumbered the ballast wagon behind it while I had the transfers out.

 

IMG_20221110_081505.jpg.ee3599f2f2c6c98c999f9dc42b917b29.jpg

  • Like 10
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

It's been a while since I posted anything - rest assured I am still modelling, just a little bit slower at the moment while I sort out various bits of "life admin". Anyway, I've been looking into electronics a bit more recently, one of the things I've tried is a DC "stay-alive" - or a capacitor, to the layman. I designed a small PCB for a total of 480uF with a low-value resistor in line to limit the charging current so I don't blow up my controller. 

 

I also picked up a cheap(ish) Terrier recently, a good candidate for comparison as it doesn't come with a flywheel but does have a cheap motor I can easily swap out for one that I can fit a flywheel to. I won't go into the full testing I did for now, but while the capacitor setup does technically work, it makes slow-speed control of the loco harder. That may be my fault for picking a relatively highly geared loco to start with, but it is tamed much better with a good old-fashioned mechanical flywheel. Which fits rather well actually, see photo below - almost like it was meant to be!

 

I might fit a small amount of capacitance to some small locos that I can't fit a flywheel in (Ruston 48DS, Peckett W4 etc.) but if there's space I prefer the mechanical setup. Now I just need a new body for that chassis...

 

image.png.c9b0ee37cd621dd9f861d1fa22b65485.png

Edited by TurboSnail
  • Like 6
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...