Restoring a Triang Loco

[Jack]

Our son has been given an old Triang ATT 0-4-0 loco by a relative.  The loco has been stored for the last 30+ years in a damp garage and is thus covered in crud (not rust, it just seems to be corrusion and dust around the wheels etc).  What is the best way to clean this off and get it moving again?  I've already removed the motor, which was fine after a drop of oil, but the wheels are pretty solid and seem to be rivetted on!

 

Why am I spending time on this, which has a financial value of probably 0?  Because the last owner died of leukemia aged 11, hence it being stored in a garage.  His mum has only just been able to face clearing the stuff out, and thought our son might like the engine.  I thought it would therefore be really good to get it working for the next time she pops round.

 

Any help owuld be greatly appreciated.

[DCB]

I don't recognise the ATT description, Triang became Triang -Hornby about 1969 ish.  I guess it is the US pattern 0-4-0T.  The coupling rods should be screwed on and easy enough to remove if its Triang Hornby. If not ignore this advice as the loco is not the Triang design..   Don't try to remove the wheels, remove the pick up plate and oil the axles with Peco Electrolube or similar and keep working them till they free off.

If you try to remove the wheels the strip metal chassis sides often bend ruining the chassis, the plastic bushes will almost certainly disintegrate and if you press the non insulated wheels off they are sods to get back on in the right pace for quartering and then often work loose and don't make electrical contact.  Just clean the wheel backs on the pick up side.  The pick up will be a spring on 90% of these chassis, the originals had brass strip and non see through wheels but they are 60 years old.  If you must remove the wheels support the inside of the chassis and drift the wheel off with a punch against the axle.  You can use Markits wheels and Romford gears on a 1/8" axle with top hat bushes on these chassis without any mods so they can run on code 75, equally keep the standard gears and use Markits Triang axles with Romfords.

 

The Triang 0-4-0 Chassis is a great piece of kit especially the X04 powered one and can be (ab) used in all sorts of applications undreamed of by the designer. The 4 wheel power bogie is even better engineered and both types will run just about for ever.

 

The least said about the steam loco body the better, though with a couple of hours work it can be made to look quite reasonable.

Edited June 13, 2018 by DavidCBroad

[Steamport Southport]

I think he wants to keep it "as is" rather than altering it for sentimental reasons.

 

 

 

If it's mainly the crud you want to get rid of then I would suggest a bit of WD40 applied with a cotton bud and/or cocktail stick and remove it gently a bit at a time. 

 

I take it it's the version at the bottom of this page.

 

https://tri-ang.weebly.com/att-tri-ang-locomotives.html

 

If so, if you need spares then try Peters Spares as they sell most of the old Triang spares.

 

https://www.petersspares.com/

 

 

 

 

Jason

[BernardTPM]

The wheels would probably benefit from a good scrubbing with an old toothbrush which should remove any loose accumulation.

[RedgateModels]

Let me know if you need any spares Jack, I might be able to help

[stewartingram]

I think he wants to keep it "as is" rather than altering it for sentimental reasons.

 

 

 

If it's mainly the crud you want to get rid of then I would suggest a bit of WD40 applied with a cotton bud and/or cocktail stick and remove it gently a bit at a time. 

 

I take it it's the version at the bottom of this page.

 

https://tri-ang.weebly.com/att-tri-ang-locomotives.html

 

If so, if you need spares then try Peters Spares as they sell most of the old Triang spares.

 

https://www.petersspares.com/

 

 

 

 

Jason

 

Avoid WD40 - the supreme bodger's tool, do the job properly. Also avoid 3-in-1 oil.

Really it needs stripping & cleaning by hand. A picture would be good to identify it, and give better advice though.

I have had many locos through my hands in earlier years as one who serviced Hornby locos for the local shops. Old Triang/Hornby never die, they are everlasting! Come back to us with a little more info please?

 

Stewart

[BR60103]

ATT is probably American Train and Track. Part of their line was TriAng with the couplers changed to NMRA style. Most of it was the Transcontinental style; I remember the RDC but I never had any.

I don't know if the wheels were improved or left at TriAng standard.

 

found a reference  http://ho-scaletrains.com/att-american-train-track/

Edited June 14, 2018 by BR60103

[Jack]

I think he wants to keep it "as is" rather than altering it for sentimental reasons.

Yes, we'd like to keep it as near to original as possible. I need notice at a recent show that we could probably pick up a replacement for about £10-15, but that isn't really the point. Thankfully it is complete, aside from needing a clean.

 

 

I take it it's the version at the bottom of this page.

https://tri-ang.weebly.com/att-tri-ang-locomotives.html

Thats it, at the bottom of the page labelled "Tri-ang R852T 0-4-0 'Continental' Tank Locomotive", although it is from a red box Hornby/Triang trainset.

 

Thanks for your help everyone. Scrubbing with a toothbrush should certainly be OK, and lubricating properly, I was just wondering about the cleaning agent (if any).

[BernardTPM]

You might find this article useful - seems it shared the chassis with a diesel too, one similar but not the same as the NBL shunter on the 'Polly/Nellie' chassis, also shown as a comparison in that article.

[Jack]

Thanks all.  A good scrub with hot water and an old toothbrush got the worst off, then i went over the metal parts with a wire brush.  All running fine now

[hayfield]

Thanks all.  A good scrub with hot water and an old toothbrush got the worst off, then i went over the metal parts with a wire brush.  All running fine now

 

 

Jack

 

Glad all is now OK, these chassis are quite bomb proof. One trick is to beef up the loco by rejuvenating the motor, either replacing the magnet with a new neoprene one or buy a button neoprene magnet and add it to the back of the original magnet

[stewartingram]

Jack

 

Glad all is now OK, these chassis are quite bomb proof. One trick is to beef up the loco by rejuvenating the motor, either replacing the magnet with a new neoprene one or buy a button neoprene magnet and add it to the back of the original magnet

 

Or keep it original and remagnetise it? (I can do that if need be).

 

Stewart

[Corbs]

Jack

 

Glad all is now OK, these chassis are quite bomb proof. One trick is to beef up the loco by rejuvenating the motor, either replacing the magnet with a new neoprene one or buy a button neoprene magnet and add it to the back of the original magnet

 

Neodymium?

[Jack]

Well, the loco is back together and working as it did in the 80s ... i think it will need some improved pickups and some way of taming it a little ... it can easily out pace Percy, pure Scalextric joy, but on full power there is no way it will make it round R3 curves

 

Thanks for your help everyone.  Pics will be taken the next time we have a running session.