Hornby track; why not?

[ddoherty958]

Having read the BRM for a while I haven’t seen a layout with Hornby track. It’s always peco. Why? Hornby track is relatively cheap and a good way to start. I’m using it. If you’re concerned with looks weather it with an airbrush and you can’t tell anyway. So why not?

[timbowilts]

Having read the BRM for a while I haven’t seen a layout with Hornby track. It’s always peco. Why? Hornby track is relatively cheap and a good way to start. I’m using it. If you’re concerned with looks weather it with an airbrush and you can’t tell anyway. So why not?

The main objection for a lot of people is the “train set” geometry with very sharp curves. That said it’s your railway so if it fioats your boat then run with it

 

Tim T

[ddoherty958]

The main objection for a lot of people is the “train set” geometry with very sharp curves. That said it’s your railway so if it fioats your boat then run with it

 

Tim T

I know what you mean about the curves but this is a relatively expensive hobby so cheap track is useful.

[The Johnster]

AFAIK Hornby code 100 track is compatible in profile, geometry, and joiners with Bachmann and Peco setrack, but Peco has a better reputation for build quality and reliability.  I have one Hornby 4th to 3rd radius curved point in my fiddle yard, and while I have not had any trouble with it, it feels distinctly flimsier than my Peco turnouts.  

 

The advantage of not using setrack is that you can model much more realistic curves.  No.1 curves are sharper than any real curve even in a siding on real standard gauge railways, and even no.4 are much sharper than anything on a running line.  The very sharpest main line curves scale out at about 4 foot radius in 00.  Of course, this needs a lot of room, and we compromise, running at scale speeds far higher than would ever be permitted over such curvature in reality.  Another major advantage is of course that you can use flexible track rather than restrict yourself to the straights and curves of setrack geometry, though you can of course use them together if you wish.

 

If you are happy with the appearance of the very sharp curves of train set track, this is fine and so long as you heed the manufacturer's recommendations about minimum curvature the trains will run over it without any problem.  My layout uses Peco Streamline except the Hornby curved turnout already mentioned, minimum medium radius pointwork section, and a minimum general curvature radius of 3 feet, on the visible scenic section.  Hornby setrack pointwork and fixed curves are much too sharp for my taste; they look very wrong to me!  Shortly after I began running on the unfinished layout, it became apparent that my eyesight and hand/eye coordination had deteriorated to an extent that prevented me using scale couplings, and I 'reverted' to tension locks (this is a whole nother story), which enabled me to use small radius Peco Streamline turnouts in the fiddle yard, and I have been able to squeeze another 2 roads in as a result; 2 more trains!

 

It comes down fundamentally to the extent to which you are prepared to compromise on scale appearance to get more layout in the space available to you, and even Pete Waterman doesn't have unlimited space; his layout compromises on scale in the fiddle yards same as everyone else's!

[ddoherty958]

So what I think I should do is use peco code 100 on the scenic section and Hornby track in the fiddleyards. What do you think?

[sub39h]

Hornby track and Peco set track are exactly the same sizes and can be used completely interchangeably. Peco track is cheaper, more reliable and made in the UK. It is a no brainer on which to choose.

[ddoherty958]

Right-oh.

 

It is decided.

Peco code 100 on the scenic section and maybe Hornby in the fiddleyard depending on price.

[jamesg]

Crossovers made with Hornby small radius points can be improved by cutting some rail from the diverging track, bringing the two parallel tracks closer together.  A mini grinder is the best tool for cutting rail.  An advantage of using the small radius points is that the length of the track formation is reduced, useful if you don't have a lot of space to store the layout.  Ebay is a good place to find bundles of track, if you're patient you can find Hornby points for just a few pounds each when purchased in bundles.

 

As well as weathering the sleeprs, painting the rail sides with a rust colour will make any code 100 rail look smaller and close to scale.  I've always used a brush so masking isn't required.

[ddoherty958]

Right-oh.

 

It is decided.

Peco code 100 on the scenic section and maybe Hornby in the fiddleyard depending on price.

Actually I’m rethinking this. I don’t want to replace my entire collection of track. I have enough to make a layout already. So Hornby it is.

[Legend]

I’m surprised you find Hornby cheap. They actually charge quite a lot of money for what is now an old track system. Must have made them fortunes over the years. If you like Setrack , and there’s nothing wrong with that, then Peco do make a Setrack Range, fully compatible with their code 100 streamline and usually less expensive than Hornby . I also tend to think Peco points last longer than Hornby ones. I would also watch out for Hornby curved points, they caused me no end of derailing , usually Bachmann locos and in particularly a Voyager I had. As a result I took them out completely

Edited July 26, 2018 by Legend

[frobisher]

I’m surprised you find Hornby cheap. They actually charge quite a lot of money for what is now an old track system. Must have made them fortunes over the years. If you like Setrack , and there’s nothing wrong with that, then Peco do make a Setrack Range, fully compatible with their code 100 streamline and usually less expensive than Hornby . I also tend to think Peco points last longer than Hornby ones. I would also watch out for Hornby curved points, they caused me no end of derailing , usually Bachmann locos and in particularly a Voyager I had. As a result I took them out completely

The problem with the Hornby curved points is that they are formed of a series of second radius curves and straight sections! The Peco Setrack ones follow the same geometry, but they might be a little better but I have no direct experience of them

 

Cheaper still is the Bachmann range which is the Roco tooling that was used for Hornby before they started making their own in China.

[cravensdmufan]

I've used Hornby 2nd and 3rd radius curved track quite extensively under my hidden sections, picked up s/h really cheaply from Toyfairs and exhibitions. The hidden sections disguise a few tight curves on the layout.  I found Hornby track sections good and solid actually. But I always use Peco streamine flexible for exposed scenic sections.

 

It's also a useful template as most modern locos specify 2nd radius minimum.  But be sure that it's the more modern nickel silver type as the old steel stuff will cause heartbreak due to tarnishing - I learned the hard way and hadn't spotted a steel piece until a whole section was laid and I found locos were stalling! 

[ddoherty958]

I've used Hornby 2nd and 3rd radius curved track quite extensively under my hidden sections, picked up s/h really cheaply from Toyfairs and exhibitions. The hidden sections disguise a few tight curves on the layout. I found Hornby track sections good and solid actually. But I always use Peco streamine flexible for exposed scenic sections.

 

It's also a useful template as most modern locos specify 2nd radius minimum. But be sure that it's the more modern nickel silver type as the old steel stuff will cause heartbreak due to tarnishing - I learned the hard way and hadn't spotted a steel piece until a whole section was laid and I found locos were stalling!

I’m so divided! I don’t want to pay to replace my entire track collection and at the same time I want the semi a to look good! What do I do?!?

[AngusDe]

I’m so divided! I don’t want to pay to replace my entire track collection and at the same time I want the semi a to look good! What do I do?!?

 

There would be no benefit replacing Hornby with peco settrack on a like for like basis. 

 

Points will wear out with time, but can be replaced as required, but that's it really.

 

You can improve the appearance with weathering, and careful planning to minimise reverse curves through pointwork and hide tight curves etc.

 

So, f you are getting satisfactory running and fun operation from your existing set up, there's no need to change. 

 

Of course, in the future when designing your next layout, any new trackwork would be better with flexi track and larger radius points etc but you can still use the Hornby track in the hidden sections, fiddle yards etc.

 

Angus

[dolydd]

I’m so divided! I don’t want to pay to replace my entire track collection and at the same time I want the semi a to look good! What do I do?!?

Ive built virtually all my layout with peco track and points bought on ebay for about a quarter the price of new and not had any problems.

 

I agree that Hornby curved points are best chucked away, but Hornby flexible track is fine and easier to shape. Stick to peco joiners as Hornby ones are too tight. Best of all are Gaugemaster joiners.

 

Whatever you choose, painting hides a load ofissues. Have fun!

[009 micro modeller]

I find there is a bit more detail of the chairs on Peco track, but this is something that either gets obscured by ballast or is too far away to notice on a layout.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

... this is a relatively expensive hobby so cheap track is useful.

 There's a  proverb for this: 'buy cheap, pay twice'. I have Peco streamline still in use over 40 years old, and some of that is flexitrack that did time outdoors.

 

So what I think I should do is use peco code 100 on the scenic section and Hornby track in the fiddleyards. What do you think?

 I think that over time you will discover that the standard set track points are too small radius for really reliable running , and you will get rid of the whole lot. (That's provided you don't give up this hobby out of disappointment.)

 

The best 'model railway' thing I ever did in my teens was to follow guidance from experienced modellers and abandon set track - the very same design set track that is still on sale roughly fifty years since it was introduced, adn it was already of dated design then! - and move to a flexitrack system. Yes, it is more restrictive in layout possibilities in any given space because curve radii are larger, points are longer. But in terms of running reliability it's day over night superior, and the Peco flexitrack if used carefully will probably outlive you in serviceable condition.

[ddoherty958]

There's a proverb for this: 'buy cheap, pay twice'. I have Peco streamline still in use over 40 years old, and some of that is flexitrack that did time outdoors.

 

I think that over time you will discover that the standard set track points are too small radius for really reliable running , and you will get rid of the whole lot. (That's provided you don't give up this hobby out of disappointment.)

 

The best 'model railway' thing I ever did in my teens was to follow guidance from experienced modellers and abandon set track - the very same design set track that is still on sale roughly fifty years since it was introduced, adn it was already of dated design then! - and move to a flexitrack system. Yes, it is more restrictive in layout possibilities in any given space because curve radii are larger, points are longer. But in terms of running reliability it's day over night superior, and the Peco flexitrack if used carefully will probably outlive you in serviceable condition.

So peco flexitraxk everywhere?

[MGR Hooper!]

I have Hornby track only for OO gauge. Really cannot see how Peco's build quality is better. It's the same. Unless I am going finescale or opting for Code 75 etc, then there's no other choice but Peco which is why you see most people with Peco.

 

Other than that I've seen no difference between Peco's setrack, Hornby's track and Bachmann's track. They're all the same.

[ddoherty958]

I have Hornby track only for OO gauge. Really cannot see how Peco's build quality is better. It's the same. Unless I am going finescale or opting for Code 75 etc, then there's no other choice but Peco which is why you see most people with Peco.

 

Other than that I've seen no difference between Peco's setrack, Hornby's track and Bachmann's track. They're all the same.

Whilst that is true I have noticed unrealistic curves with the Hornby corners, you can’t really make a gentle sweeping curve.

[Neil]

As has been mentioned one of the potential problems with Hornby track is the rather sharp divergence of the points another is that they only come in dead frog format. However sharp radius points can be just the thing to suggest industrial sidings where often in real life the trackwork was more convoluted and compressed than on the main line. it is possible to convert Hornby points to live frogs, it's about half an hours work to pull out the rails from the frog, cut away the plastic frog, file up a couple of replacement rails, insert  and solder them up. I'll do a couple of photos later on if there's interest.

[Chimer]

Whilst that is true I have noticed unrealistic curves with the Hornby corners, you can’t really make a gentle sweeping curve.

 

You can't make a gentle sweeping curve with anybody's "corners" (fixed radius curved tracks), you have to use somebody's (not necessarily Peco's) flexitrack.

 

I'm sure I will now be told someone makes 6' radius setrack curves …….. 

[ddoherty958]

You can't make a gentle sweeping curve with anybody's "corners" (fixed radius curved tracks), you have to use somebody's (not necessarily Peco's) flexitrack.

 

I'm sure I will now be told someone makes 6' radius setrack curves ……..

Yes but I think people prefer Peco’s track as it’s higher quality and more realistic. Apparently.

[alan_parkes]

Having read the BRM for a while I haven’t seen a layout with Hornby track. It’s always peco. Why? Hornby track is relatively cheap and a good way to start. I’m using it. If you’re concerned with looks weather it with an airbrush and you can’t tell anyway. So why not?

My 8 x 4 layout uses 90% Hornby track, including small radius turnouts and curved turnouts, plus a few pieces of flexi to fill the gaps and complete the layout.

I accept the shortcomings, I only use 2nd and 3rd radius curves, and accept the non-prototypical look. But, crucially, it all works, with a range of locos and stock, sometimes carefully chosen to fit with the shortcomings, it gives me pleasure and makes me HAPPY and that, to me, is what this hobby is all about.

[luckymucklebackit]

One think to remember is that Peco Streamline Points and Hornby Settrack points cannot be mixed in a formation  (such as a ladder or crossover) .  Peco Streamline points are a 12 degree angle of turnout, Hornby (and any other settrack) are 22.5 degree.

 

Jim