Pete Harvey Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Looks great Brian should look good when you have weathered it. Pete 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ngtrains.com Posted July 11, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 11, 2012 Brian Would I be right in thinking the orange conduits from the cab to the end are to do with its departmental use? I used to see the two departmental ones, either at the research centre or at the Mickleover test track. I used to cycle past the test track getting to Mickleover Model Railway club and I don't recall those conduits but then they were pretty grubby when I saw them and it was only ever from a distance. We used to get chased off if we tried to get closer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 Lovely bit of modelling, ............but I STILL think they are beyond ugly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted July 12, 2012 Author Share Posted July 12, 2012 Yes Paul the orange conduit is an add on when Derby Research had it. They originally put one orange pipe on it and looking at pictures it later aquired a second one. The white pipe down the other side goes to a air brake pipe on the bufferbeams so I think this was the only Clayton to get air braked! Jeff, lets just say they were different. Which unlike the railways of today did give us some variety. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Hi Brian, Struggling to find the parts to make up the water filler on the TPO. I have the little hook like casting and the V shaped main casting but as for the pipe and the retaining fittings, not too sure where they are. Cannot see anything like what you have on yours. Are they JLTRT parts or from some other supplier. Thanks AJ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Hi Brian, Slightly off topic but as we are talking brake pipes, etc, are your screwlink couplings just chemically blackened or painted ? I am asking as I have tried various blackening agents and also made sure the casting are clean and degreased and have never been able to get the blackening to adhere very well to the castings, this goes for CPL as well as jltrt's castings. Any advice would be much appreciated. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted July 16, 2012 Author Share Posted July 16, 2012 Martyn the couplings are blackened with "Birchwood Casey Brass Black Metal Finish to Blacken or Antique Brass, Copper or Bronze" so it says on the bottle. It's the same bottle as the Gun Blue they do but it does some castings better whereas the Gun Blue is ok for steel wheels. I got it at a show some time ago. AJ you have all you are going to get I'm affraid. The pipe is made from the .7mm wire supplied and fixed in the ends with 2 split pins. Do any of my pictures show the top ok? I used a small piece of tube soldered onto the "roof wire" into which the end of the water pipe going up and over the end springs into so you can get the roof off. Is that clear enough? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Martyn the couplings are blackened with "Birchwood Casey Brass Black Metal Finish to Blacken or Antique Brass, Copper or Bronze" so it says on the bottle. It's the same bottle as the Gun Blue they do but it does some castings better whereas the Gun Blue is ok for steel wheels. I got it at a show some time ago Thank you Brian, I will see if I can track some down. I have already got the normal "Birchwood Casey" gun blue which like you say is fine for the Slaters wheels, but looking at your couplings they are spot on at what I am trying to achive. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 (edited) Hi Brian, Looking at the pictures I can see how you have arranged it all. On the roof just after the V fitting the pipe goes into a split pin into which you have fitted the tube to retain the pipe ends allowing the pipe to be 'split' allowing the roof to be removed. Also the vertical section of the pipe on the end wall is held in place by two other split pins. Very neat. Shame about JLTRT not supplying the parts to do all this as part of the kit. Thanks for the help and advice. Edited July 17, 2012 by two tone green Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Star Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 Brian, You seem to include everything that can be seen on the prototype.... even if the parts are not in a JLTRT big-white-box. So what do you do about cab lighting and illumination of dials? thanks Graham Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 (edited) Since taking up building JLTRT kits it became obvious very quickly they are not all they are cracked up to be. Parts are missing, instructions are terrible, the build quality is not what it should be for a kit costing as much as they do and more niggling things. But the support from JLTRT and of course Brian on here is very good. Its a shame JLTRT don't have better quality control as it would certainly affect their bottom line in a positive way for them and for us an all round better experience building the kits. Its only the skill and help provided by the likes of Brian that make the kits into models that are not far off JLTRT. Edited July 17, 2012 by two tone green 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 The above, and the price for something that SHOULD be perfect for the money, is the reason I have NOT already bought at least a Peak and a Western. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Star Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 Sorry to come back again... to add to my post of earlier today. How have you done the lighting for the marker and tail lamps of a JLTRT diesel? For example:- * where have you mounted the LEDs? * how have you formed the "lens" on the outrside of the body? * if the floor of the diesel body comes away for access to the decoder and motor, how have you arranged the wiring between the LEDs and the decoder? thank you, Graham Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted July 18, 2012 Author Share Posted July 18, 2012 (edited) Hi Graham, the red lights I use are lighthouse LED's that pass through the tail light hole and if you are lucky and the body is not too thick the end forms the lights lens on the outside. I connect the wires from the chassis to the body with small 4 pin connectors, sometimes useing 2 if there are alot of wires. As there is nothing to stop you connecting these the wrong way round add a dab of white paint on one side of both parts so you can orientate them correctly the next time you part them. You can see in the last picture that I use a 7mm copperclad sleeper as a busbar to collect all the wire in a neat'ish pile. You can cut the copper to make seperate areas for tail lights, headlights, cab lights etc. One area is used to solder all the return wires from the lights together and then solder just one wire from here to the small connector. For headlights I use 16V Miniatronics bulbs mounted in an alluminium tube to support them and help dissipate any heat. I use 16V, running on 12V so they are not at full brightness or heat! You can see on the last picture the 2 diodes on the copperclad sleeper to control the direction of the headlight bulbs as this model is DC. Edited July 18, 2012 by brian daniels 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomstaf Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 (edited) Hi Brian, Just looking back at your nicely done RMB. Do you know which diagram the kit covers (97, 98 or 99)? Cheers Tom Edited July 18, 2012 by tomstaf Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted July 18, 2012 Author Share Posted July 18, 2012 Hi Brian, Looking at the pictures I can see how you have arranged it all. On the roof just after the V fitting the pipe goes into a split pin into which you have fitted the tube to retain the pipe ends allowing the pipe to be 'split' allowing the roof to be removed. Also the vertical section of the pipe on the end wall is held in place by two other split pins. Very neat. Shame about JLTRT not supplying the parts to do all this as part of the kit. Thanks for the help and advice. Glad you managed to sort out what I did, I am better showing rather than writing what I do! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted July 18, 2012 Author Share Posted July 18, 2012 Hi Brian, Just looking back at your nicely done RMB. Do you know which diagram the kit covers (97, 98 or 99)? Cheers Tom Affraid I don't know Tom. I just looked on the JLTRT website and they don't say. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Bob Reid Posted July 18, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 18, 2012 (edited) By default Tom the RMB kit covers both diagrams 98 or 99 (you can specify the bogie type anyway) so therefore from 1813 to 1882. You can equally use the same kit for diagram 97s (1801-1812) that had the additional seating bay replaced with the same store cupboard as the 98/99 having also lost the bodylight at the same time (though the roof vent and fan layout would need changing as would the rainstrips from straight to curved.....) See here in the 'junior' scale department Edited July 19, 2012 by Bob-65b 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomstaf Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 Affraid I don't know Tom. I just looked on the JLTRT website and they don't say. Thanks Brian, I did the same, but the RMB didn't have a diagram number. Bob's post has sorted this out for me though. Cheers Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomstaf Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 By default Tom the RMB kit covers both diagrams 98 or 99 (you can specify the bogie type anyway) so therefore from 1838 to 1882. You can equally use the same kit for diagram 97s that had the additional seating bay replaced with the same store cupboard as the 98/99 having also lost the bodylight at the same time (though the roof vent and fan layout would need changing as would the rainstrips from straight to curved.....) See here in the 'junior' scale department Thanks Bob, Very helpful Cheers Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Bob Reid Posted July 19, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 19, 2012 (edited) No problem Tom. In the posting I gave the wrong number range since corrected - here's the full correct list (as built and originally allocated)..... Lot 30485 Diag 97 E1801-1812 Built York 1958 BR Bogies Lot 30507 Diag 98 SC1838-1848, S1849-1852 Built Wolverton 1960 BR Bogies Lot 30520 Diag 99 W1813-1816, M1817-1828, SC1829-1837 Built Wolverton 1960 CW Bogies1 Lot 30670 Diag 99 E1853-1864 Built Wolverton 1962 CW Bogies Lot 30702 Diag 99 M1865-1870, E1871-1882 Built Wolverton 1962 CW Bogies 1 There is evidence to suggest that despite the diagram book (and Parkin), some of the vehicles within this lot were supplied with BR Bogies at least at first anyway. Edited July 19, 2012 by Bob-65b 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 Hi Brian, Its TPO questions again. This time its alarm gear. The end view of the coach shows quite nicely the alarm gear arrangement but where did you get the parts. Totally different to mine. The BR Mk1 coach instructions for my BG and TPO both shows photos of the parts in brass and white metal and titled alarm gear. The assembly instructions shows three half moon shapes and the .7mm wire but the nothing like the parts included except the wire. Is your set up another of your do it yourself piece of modelling engineering or the parts were in the box. And Pete Waterman keeps saying his kits are simple !!!!!!!!!!! BG now, did the BG have a water filler. me thinks not. Last one for tonight, where does the steam heat pressure relief valve go? A polite answer please.. Thanks for your help Brian, much appreciated. After doing these two coaches the other ten will be easy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted July 23, 2012 Author Share Posted July 23, 2012 TTG the communication cord tell tails are from CPL Part number 1C ref 120. BG's do not have water fillers or the casting on the roof. If you find out where the steam valve goes please tell me! I have just finished the ABS steel open that I airbraked with the help of some castings from Appleby. Just weathering to do later. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 Hi Brian, Thanks for the info. Will have to try to find out just how the JLTRT parts fit for the alarm and if I find out about the steam valve I will certainly let you know. Excellent looking wagons. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Bob Reid Posted July 23, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 23, 2012 Any chance of a photo of the steam valve....? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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