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Brian's 7mm Diesel Workbench, Belated up-date!


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Now if anyone wants to do the transfers Tim that would be a show stopper as it pasted in a train.

 

Made use of some nice weather today so here it is so far.

 

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End nearly done, just the door dandles to add.

 

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Looks untidy but you can't see it!

 

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This was a swine to bend as it's so long.

 

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The gutter where the half etch line is on the left and right sides is should be bent up slightly but I can't grip it! so I think I might solder a strip of brass on the edge to represent the edge of the gutter.

 

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Again, not very pretty from the top but it works fine. One thing though, don't hover the iron on it too long as the brass will warp with the heat.

 

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The little brackets slotted in the frame are for the coupling to anchor to. Should be clear later, I hope.

 

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The doors should go into a slot you have created by soldering 2 strips of brass on the edge of the ends.

 

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The doors are designed to hang of the top runner but it was a swine to fold the top of the door over into a U shape. I had to go to a friend who had some better equipment than I had. In all honesty it does not need this U bending as the door could just be soldered to the runner strip I think when I get that soldered up.

 

Pete Harvey has done a nice set of pdf drawings to help the build on this but we are still making it up as we go along as this is the prototype!

Edited by brian daniels
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post-6766-0-19372700-1352112577.jpg

This was a swine to bend as it's so long.

post-6766-0-03849200-1352112613.jpg

The doors should go into a slot you have created by soldering 2 strips of brass on the edge of the ends.

post-6766-0-73604500-1352112624_thumb.jpg

The doors are designed to hang of the top runner but it was a swine to fold the top of the door over into a U shape. I had to go to a friend who had some better equipment than I had. In all honesty it does not need this U bending as the door could just be soldered to the runner strip I think when I get that soldered up.

 

Pete Harvey has done a nice set of pdf drawings to help the build on this but we are still making it up as we go along as this is the prototype!

 

Hello Brian,

 

the ends are looking v.nice.

 

But I'm having a job at getting my head around the roof. In photo 9 it looks like you have a one piece roof. But in photo 16 it only looks like a part roof and the sliding side, and it looks very similar in photo 17. Could you please show me and maybe a few more how these parts relate to one another.

 

On the real thing how do the doors open?

 

Confused of Barrow.

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Hello Brian,

 

Pete has sent me the PDFs and all is a lot clearer now.

 

For bending up the gutter, you could use a pair of smooth jawed pliers and do it a bit at a time and then finish it off in a smooth jawed vice. It's not elegant but if you take you time it will work. Or you could use a set of bending bars and do it in a couple of goes, the hard part is to get the "joint" between the bends to look like it was all done in one go.

 

OzzyO.

 

PS. if it doesn't work you can always take it off and solder a length of strip in place.

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I have finished both ends now. I also added the thin strip under the frames to make the L shape strengthening strip all the way along the bottom edge. So it was on with having a go at erecting the body. Hopefully Ozzyo the doors will be a bit clearer? The doors do need a bit of tweaking to get the angles on the tops the same as the slot in the ends.

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Hello Brian,

 

with the PDFs and the photos of the full wagon all is a lot clearer now. When I spoke to Pete yesterday I mentioned to him about the size of the wagon and it being a hollow box, and that you could get a lot of drumming from it. To stop that happening I mentioned about filling the body (after its built) with something like the fill and fix foam. It wont add to much weight (I wouldn't think it would need it) but should cut down any noise.

 

Have you any thoughts about this? I mention this now as you would need to drill some holes for the foam to go into.

 

How did you get on with the gutter?

 

OzzyO.

Edited by ozzyo
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Brian,

 

I do like this Cargowaggon and your build looks very neat. After seeing the first post I did a search on the net for build details of the IWB and have not found anything as yet. What can you say about when these wagons were introduced into the UK and the numbers of them?

 

regards, Graham

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Brian,

 

I do like this Cargowaggon and your build looks very neat. After seeing the first post I did a search on the net for build details of the IWB and have not found anything as yet. What can you say about when these wagons were introduced into the UK and the numbers of them?

 

regards, Graham

 

See http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/german2doorvan

 

Paul Bartlett

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The only problem with that foam is it's rate of expansion: if you add too much, it'll literally tear the model apart.

 

Hello Jeffp,

 

I did say holes, I was thinking about three at each end, one to apply the stuff through and two to let any excess out. The stuff in the cans may be a bit of over kill. But you can get some for model boat building that may work better.

 

OzzyO.

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Now I have got this far that's it until next week as I am off to Salzburg for a couple of railtours this weekend :locomotive:

 

As this is a prototype I think I will see how it sounds with nothing inside. So long as it's all soldered together tight it might be ok. I have not had time to have a look at the guttering Ozzyo, 10 hour afternoon/evenings this week at work unfortunately which does not leave much time for modelling :resent:

 

By the way the centre roof and doors were only hanging on loose just to see how it looked when I took these pictures. Hopefully have another session on it in a weeks time and get the doors on it permanently.

 

Nice set of pictures Paul. Do you have any with the yellow Cargowaggon on?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Now I have got my holidays and Heljan class 40 testing out of the way I have done a bit more to the wagon. It's now on bogies and has couplings. The bogie pivot is designed to use a Slaters 3/16 wheel bearing as a bush. So I thought I would use a piece of 3/16 brass rod as the pivot with a spring clip to secure it. I used this method on a US 7mm loco sometime back and it works well and gives you a quick release option! The spring castings fit like a glove in the etched holes for them. I did have to file down the axle ends to get them in the bearings. I have just soldered up 2 side doors so should not be long before I get it finished.

 

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Thats a monster of a wagon Brian, and looking good too. Very much like that bogie attachment as well! If I remember correctly the real things are quite noisy so don't go too heavy on the noise deadening in the model.

JF

Edited by Jon Fitness
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  • 2 weeks later...

Well with work and exhibitions out of the way for a bit I can get back to modelling. I have added the door strapping, handles and bottom runners so can fix the doors in place now. At Reading I bought some L angle to represent the roof guttering as there was no way I could bend up about 1mm of the edge of the brass roof. It's not right but it's better than nothing. I hope to get it finished by the end of the week.

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Wasn't he doing a YC25 bogie?

 

Brian,

 

He is doing this bogie [LHB or whatever], and several variants of the YC25 + is at an advanced stage with several vehicles that ride on them - though I don't know all the details.

 

Regards,

 

David Parkins

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