Imaginary Locomotives

[Satan's Goldfish]

Ok, following the above, here we have EP1 (probably should be EDP1 really now), with 2x DC pans (for when it's drawing a lot of current), 1x AC pan, third rail collection shoes, a diesel engine for running off the juice. I've refrained from asymmetrical cabs just because DVT running wasn't a thing back when this would have come to life. Radiators because even Electrics needed cooling ('Roarers' anyone?) In theory, it could run under AC, start the Diesel engine before running out of wire, then use that to gap fill before putting up the 1,500V DC pans for woodhead without stopping. Any guesses on HP ratings in it's various formats?! (>6,000 AC, 2,000 DC, <2,000 Diesel?)

 

[russ p]

It definitely should be multi-voltage to take coal trains over Woodhead and all the way to Fiddlers Ferry via Crewe.

 

Surely EP1 though?

EP1 was the NER 2-C-2 electric locomotive No13

[runs as required]

Now that Raven body would be truly spectacular on such a muscle bound giant lekky.

dh

[cheesysmith]

That electrodeltic beast would have at least 4800bhp using standard EE its (motors from a 4rep/73). If built using AC converted to DC, it would have the same power under both voltages. Put2 6 cylinder thumper engines in (one in each half) and you could have 1600bhp for diesel. Cant see any advantage over using a pair of Co Co bogues, and i dont think it would be able to use its full power on the SR due to the amount of juice it would draw.

[Dr Gerbil-Fritters]

Ooh look, here are three EP1s waiting to take over from steam locomotives at Grantham sometime in the early 60s

 

 

That can't possibly be a mountain in the background; there are no mountains in Lincolnshire!

[FPH 603]

Ooh look, here are three EP1s waiting to take over from steam locomotives at Grantham sometime in the early 60s

 

9cabf198cda93baaefa20b2d8f1f0ca1.jpg

 

That can't possibly be a mountain in the background; there are no mountains in Lincolnshire!

They came from America... From the opposite of Lincolnshire... The steam will disappear, with these monsters taking their place! We've waited a very long time, but they've finally come. Here comes the EP1!

[LNWR18901910]

20180321_131857.jpg

 

How about this for a powerful steam beast.

 

I created her yesterday in just over an hour, granted I know she has 2 domes on the boiler, this will be corrected and probably the firebox need to be bigger as does the tender but for now she's unpowered and needs some work on the 5 driving axles to make them turn properly.

 

The reason for this is because the 3rd driving wheelset is the 1 thats causing the problem.

 

This is because the loco chassis with the 1st 3 axles is the pre loco drive Hornby chassis from a tender driven loco when they started to appear with the finer valve gear so the 3rd axle was sprung to maintain contact with the rails.

 

Today I fitted a piece of 10 thou plasticard but it could be thicker ( possibly  40 thou ) above the axle bearing holder for the 3rd axle and initially it seemed to cure the problem but its difficult to tell what thickness of plasticard or possibly brass is needed to keep the 3rd axle from slopping around.

 

It was doing that before I fitted the plasicard shim and as a result the wheelset constantly derailed causing the wheels to stop turning which is why I fitted the plasticard in place ( it is not glued in so it can be easily removed ).

 

Also may I ask if anybody found a way to stop the bearings on the old tender drive loco chassis from coming loose all the time, the only thing I can think of is to remove the 1st 3 axles and glue the bearings in place then refit the wheels and clean up once dried but I need to get opinions on this 1st before I do anything to it.

 

I probably also should have used maybe 20mm or 22mm driving wheels for such a beast of a loco but I only have 6 x 22mm wheels from a kitbuilt V2 after the chassis snapped between axles 2 & 3 and could not be repaired.

 

Added to that also that I have never dealt with fitting crankpins into romford or markits wheels nor have I dealt with building valve gear except in O Gauge ( less fiddly because if the size of the parts ).

 

This is a project that I would seriously like to finish and make it run on the heaviest trains I could couple her to haul single handed or with banking assistance only if needed.

Nice locomotive! Does it run well?

[Joseph_Pestell]

Nice locomotive! Does it run well?

Only if there are three firemen on the footplate or a corridor tender for frequent changeovers.

[Suzie]

Perhaps what is required for ultimate power steam in the UK loading gauge is a 'Reverse Fairley' with the chimney in the middle and a tender at each end with driving controls in the end of the tenders. You can then have two firemen in each end shovelling the black stuff in, double the grate area with two fireboxes, and the boilers can be an efficient length. If riding was good enough perhaps there would be enough power for 140mph running.

[melmerby]

I have yet to figure a number for her.

 

Any suggestions appreciated. 

Which period of numbering?

You would also need an LNER class designation.

 

Maybe it would have to come under "Miscellany" = Z?

 

Keith

Edited March 22, 2018 by melmerby

[melmerby]

Perhaps what is required for ultimate power steam in the UK loading gauge is a 'Reverse Fairley' with the chimney in the middle and a tender at each end with driving controls in the end of the tenders. You can then have two firemen in each end shovelling the black stuff in, double the grate area with two fireboxes, and the boilers can be an efficient length. If riding was good enough perhaps there would be enough power for 140mph running.

Mechanical stokers? Or oil fired as some of the unusual US locos were (Cab Forward)

 

Keith

[Tic-toc]

Mechanical stokers? Or oil fired as some of the unusual US locos were (Cab Forward)

 

Now there's an idea, how about creating some fictitious cab-forward designs, possibly for oil-fired loco's, or even a "what if pulverized coal firing had worked?". Be interesting to see.

[Budgie]

This is the 1st time I have tried to build such a loco with 10 coupled 26mm driving wheels on the same chassis but the 3rd axle in particular causes a few problem itself because of the setup the main part of the chassis used before the loco driven A3/4 models were introduced.  The 1st 3 driving axles are from the tender driven version and the thicker coupling rods from axles 3 - 5 are from the 1990s version if the A1/3/4 locos as I did not have enough of the finer rods to match them all up.

 

I have yet to figure out a drive system for the loco aswell as a number for her.

 

Any suggestions appreciated.

Would it run better if some of the wheels were flangeless; either on the third axle, or on the second and fourth?

[Satan's Goldfish]

Ooh look, here are three EP1s waiting to take over from steam locomotives at Grantham sometime in the early 60s

 

9cabf198cda93baaefa20b2d8f1f0ca1.jpg

 

That can't possibly be a mountain in the background; there are no mountains in Lincolnshire!

You have found my inspiration I do like the little Joe's.

[melmerby]

Were any LNER Locos numbered in the 67xxx,  68xxx or 69xxx ranges besides garratt 69999.  If not then she could be given any 1 of almost 3000 numbers.

At nationalisation no LNER locos were numbered above 10000* but under BR they were put in the 6XXXX series and yes plenty of 67XXX, 68XXX and 69XXX, the last before the Garratt was 69937 a Q1

 

*10000 of course became 60700

 

Keith

Edited March 22, 2018 by melmerby

[LNWR18901910]

Hi LNWR18901910

 

I am having a few issues trying to get all 5 axles to turn freely without getting jammed at various points of each turn of the wheels.  Sometimes she'll run freely in both directions with the use of 2 locos moving her as she is currently unpowered.

 

I think the spacing between the 3rd and 4th axles is slightly too much and posdibly causing the problem.

 

This is the 1st time I have tried to build such a loco with 10 coupled 26mm driving wheels on the same chassis but the 3rd axle in particular causes a few problem itself because of the setup the main part of the chassis used before the loco driven A3/4 models were introduced.  The 1st 3 driving axles are from the tender driven version and the thicker coupling rods from axles 3 - 5 are from the 1990s version if the A1/3/4 locos as I did not have enough of the finer rods to match them all up.

 

I have yet to figure out a drive system for the loco aswell as a number for her.

 

Any suggestions appreciated. 

Oh, dear. I hope you'll get her fixed, soon. Me, I am working on a Mk II of my LNWR Mogul using a Bachmann G2A. I was thinking of calling it a G27. What do you think?

[DCB]

20180321_131857.jpg

 

How about this for a powerful steam beast.

 

I created her yesterday in just over an hour, granted I know she has 2 domes on the boiler, this will be corrected and probably the firebox need to be bigger as does the tender but for now she's unpowered and needs some work on the 5 driving axles to make them turn properly.

 

The reason for this is because the 3rd driving wheelset is the 1 thats causing the problem.

 

This is because the loco chassis with the 1st 3 axles is the pre loco drive Hornby chassis from a tender driven loco when they started to appear with the finer valve gear so the 3rd axle was sprung to maintain contact with the rails.

 

Today I fitted a piece of 10 thou plasticard but it could be thicker ( possibly  40 thou ) above the axle bearing holder for the 3rd axle and initially it seemed to cure the problem but its difficult to tell what thickness of plasticard or possibly brass is needed to keep the 3rd axle from slopping around.

 

It was doing that before I fitted the plasicard shim and as a result the wheelset constantly derailed causing the wheels to stop turning which is why I fitted the plasticard in place ( it is not glued in so it can be easily removed ).

 

Also may I ask if anybody found a way to stop the bearings on the old tender drive loco chassis from coming loose all the time, the only thing I can think of is to remove the 1st 3 axles and glue the bearings in place then refit the wheels and clean up once dried but I need to get opinions on this 1st before I do anything to it.

 

I probably also should have used maybe 20mm or 22mm driving wheels for such a beast of a loco but I only have 6 x 22mm wheels from a kitbuilt V2 after the chassis snapped between axles 2 & 3 and could not be repaired.

 

Added to that also that I have never dealt with fitting crankpins into romford or markits wheels nor have I dealt with building valve gear except in O Gauge ( less fiddly because if the size of the parts ).

 

This is a project that I would seriously like to finish and make it run on the heaviest trains I could couple her to haul single handed or with banking assistance only if needed.

I have put a bit of 2 amp fuse wire between the bearing and the chassis and forced the bearing in the chassis which stops the slop.  The Yanks had this problem so they came up with Duplex 4-4-6-4s etc with 4 X cylinders 2 to the 4 coupled wheels and 2 to the other 6 coupled wheels.   

[runs as required]

..... Me, I am working on a Mk II of my LNWR Mogul using a Bachmann G2A. I was thinking of calling it a G27. What do you think?

Sacrilege Sir!

Waste of a Whale G2A

Why not convert to a eight coupled LNWR "Piano Front" Compound - quite a rarity in the modelling world.

IIRC it was a "piano front" whose boiler exploded so horrendously at Buxton.

 

dh

[The Johnster]

It may need to be a 4-10-4 (and mechanically stoked); that is a small firebox for the big boiler!

 

This is gonna run and run...

[melmerby]

Maybe it should be a 2-10-4?

 

Here is what a British 2-10-4 could look like:

 

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/eb/Class_21_no._2551_%282-10-4%29_a.jpg

 

Keith

Edited March 23, 2018 by melmerby

[LNWR18901910]

20180323_165341.jpg20180323_165407.jpg

 

Here is the latest on my 4 - 10 - 2 project.

 

As can be seen from the pictures I have completely removed the tyres from the 2nd & 3rd axles in order to try and level them out and get them closer to turning freely.

 

I was left with no choice but to remove the tyres as they were causing a seesaw effect and preventing all 5 axles from making contact.

 

She's still jamming a little around the 5th axle.

 

You may recall I said about the wheels slopping around, it turns out its to do with the diameter of the axles coupled with the internal diameter of the bearings being used.

 

I fitted the 1990s bearings which are thicker and also have a larger internal diameter on the 5th wheel set so now I've got to find a wheel set with the older axle on it and hopefully use that in place of the current wheels on the 5th axle.

 

She's getting closer to a towed or pushed running trial but I've got to iron these wheel issues before that happens. 

I hope it runs well. What is its purpose - freight, passenger or mixed-traffic?

[JimC]

If you want some inspiration for very large British outline locomotives see if you can find a copy of A E Durrant's "Swindon Apprentice". Dusty Durrant was a Swindon apprentice in the late GWR/early BR days, and a draughtsman at Swindon when the standards were being drawn up. He filled his sketchbooks with drawings of the enormous locomotives that he felt BR should have been building. Among his sketches are an express 4-8-4 with a matching 2-12-2 freight locomotive, and the comment that a mixed traffic 2-10-4 could also have been schemed out from the same components. As Durrant, flights of fancy apart, was a trained locomotive designer, one may assume his  sketches are not utterly ridiculous and might well be a useful pattern. You can be assured that they have nothing that is obviously GWR about them.

[sir douglas]

there has been much on here of GWR garratts but on whim 10 minutes ago i built myself on on MS paint with a Hornby 2800 and a king, and using my dad's garratt book next to me for proportion and styling inspiration

 

the bogies are straight 2800 without any changes, the boiler is an enlarged king with a longer firebox, the tank and bunker and cab are chopped up from the king, the black line indicates the max height to work within taken from the king

 

it took 3 minutes to throw together this midland compound 4-6-0, i stuck in the nice round number of 3000 since i cant see anything on the midland loco wiki inbetween the 2899 of the 240 class and the 3845 4F

[LNWR18901910]

there has been much on here of GWR garratts but on whim 10 minutes ago i built myself on on MS paint with a Hornby 2800 and a king, and using my dad's garratt book next to me for proportion and styling inspiration

 

the bogies are straight 2800 without any changes, the boiler is an enlarged king with a longer firebox, the tank and bunker and cab are chopped up from the king, the black line indicates the max height to work within taken from the king

gwr garratt.jpg

 

it took 3 minutes to throw together this midland compound 4-6-0, i stuck in the nice round number of 3000 since i cant see anything on the midland loco wiki inbetween the 2899 of the 240 class and the 3845 4F

MR compound.jpg

Nice! I bet it;s worth a challenge in 00 scale!

[JimC]

The other option to consider firebox wise would be to shoehorn in a Duchess one. There's no real reason to use a narrow firebox on a Garratt. A King barrel with a duchess firebox is arguably what the Great Bear should have had.