What's on your 3mm workbench

[TT100 Diesels]

Tales from High Peak Junction workshops, a.k.a. my workbench.....

 

The met camm DTS front end repairs are nealy finished, meantime...

 

 

Etched Park done a lash up with a class 104 DTS to keep the service running.

 

Nothing more to report on 37403, its currently UVS waiting on the transfers and nameplates from Railtec.

 

Back to the 08 poor running on my layout saga. Spent a lot of time on the match truck Conflat. Painted up the extra liquid lead now its set. Took ages over setting up the wheel backs pick ups so they are not too stiff and not too loose spring pressure, plus on the bar coupler hole, opened it out a bit so the coupling bar had a bit more slop so the conflat can more easily find its own level and not potentially off load the 08 end wheelset due to a too stiff coupler. 

 

Result, I am pleased to say. Test running has been good, best the 08 has run on my layout ( It did run ok on a billiard board flat test track at the recent Bingham 3mm meet ).

 

 

The gubbins, decoder wire and micro connector twixt 08 and Conflat, all wheel pickups on the Conflat, liquid lead added to centre area to add more weight to aid  current pickup. Thanks again to @bradfordbuffer for the prototype pics up thread of 08's with match trucks, at least I have got my justification now!

 

 

And, on the layout. I even treated the Conflat to some stickers. Dug out my 3mm scale Woodhead transfers and found a random 'DBxxxxxx' number set, found a 'Derby' and a 'Match Truck', they will do and look the part. Just needs weathering now. I like the 'Derby' as the 08 is a DY allocated example.

 

Got there in the end despite such previous  setbacks as a wheel coming off the 08 and bonding in liquid lead on the Conflat foul of the wheel flange clearance area....🤔.

 

Cheers

 

D.

[TT100 Diesels]

Just another bench update on existing work.

 

 

"Collision" repairs completed on the met camm DTS. Need to blend some more weathering in, but thinking that may as well do that at the same time I start on 37403. 

 

 

Super pleased with the repairs and blend in, when comparing the repaired photo with the damaged end photo here. Ended up having to paint the whole front end yellow again to top of windscreen level, with lower strength yellow washes higher up the front to try to blend it in.

 

37403 "Isle of Mull". The transfers and nameplates arrived from Railtec. 

 

 

First side of the loco with the main decals and plates applied. Letting it all proper dry before turning over to do the other side. Trying to be super careful with these, they are the biggest transfers I have applied so far. So still plenty of scope for me to err, make a mess.....🤔.

 

But hopefully if it all comes good, it should look the Eastfield westy's whatsits..😁.

 

Cheers folks

 

D.

[bradfordbuffer]

29 minutes ago, TT100 Diesels said:

Just another bench update on existing work.

 

 

"Collision" repairs completed on the met camm DTS. Need to blend some more weathering in, but thinking that may as well do that at the same time I start on 37403. 

 

 

Super pleased with the repairs and blend in, when comparing the repaired photo with the damaged end photo here. Ended up having to paint the whole front end yellow again to top of windscreen level, with lower strength yellow washes higher up the front to try to blend it in.

 

37403 "Isle of Mull". The transfers and nameplates arrived from Railtec. 

 

 

First side of the loco with the main decals and plates applied. Letting it all proper dry before turning over to do the other side. Trying to be super careful with these, they are the biggest transfers I have applied so far. So still plenty of scope for me to err, make a mess.....🤔.

 

But hopefully if it all comes good, it should look the Eastfield westy's whatsits..😁.

 

Cheers folks

 

D.

That's better .....daisy is better! The 37 looks absolutely brill

[Red Devil]

1 hour ago, TT100 Diesels said:

Just another bench update on existing work.

 

 

"Collision" repairs completed on the met camm DTS. Need to blend some more weathering in, but thinking that may as well do that at the same time I start on 37403. 

 

 

Super pleased with the repairs and blend in, when comparing the repaired photo with the damaged end photo here. Ended up having to paint the whole front end yellow again to top of windscreen level, with lower strength yellow washes higher up the front to try to blend it in.

 

37403 "Isle of Mull". The transfers and nameplates arrived from Railtec. 

 

 

First side of the loco with the main decals and plates applied. Letting it all proper dry before turning over to do the other side. Trying to be super careful with these, they are the biggest transfers I have applied so far. So still plenty of scope for me to err, make a mess.....🤔.

 

But hopefully if it all comes good, it should look the Eastfield westy's whatsits..😁.

 

Cheers folks

 

D.

Looking good, I'm having difficulty not being dragged forwards in time after your LL 37, I seem to have become quite interested in Bridgeton Central, not seen any pics of 403 there but a few others....including this one of 405....difficult to resist but I have too much earlier stuff!

 

[TT100 Diesels]

Cheers for the kind words @Red Devil and @bradfordbuffer, the Bridgeton pic is fantastic, Glasgow suburban grot with spades of atmosphere. Someting like that would make a fantastic layout. Looking your way Red Devil, no pressure......😉. Sorry to drag you forward, but LL 37's what's not to like, and you can still have Birmingham Sulzers of both flavours in the mix!

 

Back to my bench:-

 

 

Decals now 100% finished. So its, varnish to protect them and weathering next.

 

Cheers

 

D.

 

PS - Daisy sends her thanks for your concern Mr Buffer.

[TT100 Diesels]

More from the bench......

 

 

First up, "Daisey" the DTC is now released back to traffic after collision damage repairs. Compare with DMBS on the left. Weathering of buffer beam is not quite the same but it is at the opposite end and looks better than this tablet cam grab (honest). But super pleased with the yellow front end refinishing.

 

 

Also released to traffic is the match truck with extra pick ups for the 08 (Conflat). Again, tab cam grab seems to loose the subtleties of the weathering.

 

Right, that is the orses duvers and starter. Now for the main course.

 

 

Been weathering this today. Monster..........

 

Just imagine it on full thrash on the Fort William sleeper grinding up to Rannoch Moor.......

 

 

Need to let it settle on me, still a few more tweaks here and there, but probably about 90% there with the weathering.

 

 

In the end I tried to follow a pic of 37406 at Queen St I took. Unfortunately only found two pics of 37403 on the web, for the period I was after, and not particularly clear. 403 was absolutely filthy, a lot more than the "406" version, but the one I tried to follow captures the essence of a West Highland Line /4 to me.

 

Again, poor quality tab cam grab, it looks tons better in the flesh.

 

Cheers

 

D.

 

Edited May 9 by TT100 Diesels
Spelling

[03060]

12 hours ago, TT100 Diesels said:

More from the bench......

 

 

First up, "Daisey" the DTC is now released back to traffic after collision damage repairs. Compare with DMBS on the left. Weathering of buffer beam is not quite the same but it is at the opposite end and looks better than this tablet cam grab (honest). But super pleased with the yellow front end refinishing.

 

 

Also released to traffic is the match truck with extra pick ups for the 08 (Conflat). Again, tab cam grab seems to loose the subtleties of the weathering.

 

Right, that is the orses duvers and starter. Now for the main course.

 

 

Been weathering this today. Monster..........

 

Just imagine it on full thrash on the Fort William sleeper grinding up to Rannoch Moor.......

 

 

Need to let it settle on me, still a few more tweaks here and there, but probably about 90% there with the weathering.

 

 

In the end I tried to follow a pic of 37406 at Queen St I took. Unfortunately only found two pics of 37403 on the web, for the period I was after, and not particularly clear. 403 was absolutely filthy, a lot more than the "406" version, but the one I tried to follow captures the essence of a West Highland Line /4 to me.

 

Again, poor quality tab cam grab, it looks tons better in the flesh.

 

Cheers

 

D.

 

Great work Dave on all fronts ... but those photos of 37403 immeadiately brought the sound of a 37 growling up Glen Falloch into my ears ... which is always a sign of a great model !!

 

Looking forward to seeing this in the flesh sometime, so to speak.

 

Marvellous !! 
 

Regards,

Ian.

[TT100 Diesels]

Glad you like it @03060, still the enamel weathering washes are hardening off so I have put it to one side for a while before it gets rattle can matt varnish spray...don't want a repeat of the class 20 issues.

 

In the meantime, got out my bag of 8 x Dogfish ballast hopper kits.

These are Cambrian Models kits from the society shop.

 

 

Started the first one to get a measure of how it goes together. As the instructions state, its not the easiest to build and I agree with that. 

 

Also made up 16 wheelsets from 9mm dia flat pack wheels and axles. Set the b2b, blob of super glue to lock that and two coats of enamel frame dirt on the front of the wheel pans.

 

 

Here is the first chassis glued up. Its right fiddly, you need to kind of glue it all together and manipulate it to get the wheelsets in then fettle it all square before the poly cement goes off.

 

So, something new again to do, never done any hopper wagon kits before. 

 

Cheers

 

D.

[03060]

1 hour ago, TT100 Diesels said:

Glad you like it @03060, still the enamel weathering washes are hardening off so I have put it to one side for a while before it gets rattle can matt varnish spray...don't want a repeat of the class 20 issues.

 

In the meantime, got out my bag of 8 x Dogfish ballast hopper kits.

These are Cambrian Models kits from the society shop.

 

 

Started the first one to get a measure of how it goes together. As the instructions state, its not the easiest to build and I agree with that. 

 

Also made up 16 wheelsets from 9mm dia flat pack wheels and axles. Set the b2b, blob of super glue to lock that and two coats of enamel frame dirt on the front of the wheel pans.

 

 

Here is the first chassis glued up. Its right fiddly, you need to kind of glue it all together and manipulate it to get the wheelsets in then fettle it all square before the poly cement goes off.

 

So, something new again to do, never done any hopper wagon kits before. 

 

Cheers

 

D.

Hello Dave,

 

Very interested in the Dogfish build as I've also got a box with about 6 of these in a cupboard somewhere ... not much call for them on a 1920s S&DJR layout but maybe one of Lenny's Bo-Bos might tempt me to build them just for a change of subject, although I really need to finish a couple of other things first.

 

Anyway ... watching with interest and good luck with the build.

 

Regards,

Ian.

[03060]

15 hours ago, TT100 Diesels said:

Glad you like it @03060, still the enamel weathering washes are hardening off so I have put it to one side for a while before it gets rattle can matt varnish spray...don't want a repeat of the class 20 issues.

 

In the meantime, got out my bag of 8 x Dogfish ballast hopper kits.

These are Cambrian Models kits from the society shop.

 

 

Started the first one to get a measure of how it goes together. As the instructions state, its not the easiest to build and I agree with that. 

 

Also made up 16 wheelsets from 9mm dia flat pack wheels and axles. Set the b2b, blob of super glue to lock that and two coats of enamel frame dirt on the front of the wheel pans.

 

 

Here is the first chassis glued up. Its right fiddly, you need to kind of glue it all together and manipulate it to get the wheelsets in then fettle it all square before the poly cement goes off.

 

So, something new again to do, never done any hopper wagon kits before. 

 

Cheers

 

D.

Just looking at your photos again Dave and just wondering if this is the sort of kit where making a little jig out of wood on which to help build the chassis and maybe another for the hoppers (can't remember if they are a one piece moulding or not ?) 

 

Thinking ... build upside down with 5 pairs of parallel holes for the stantions to slot into either side of a raised rectangle to build around, handrail part left until all of this was set and upright again (I'd have to dig my kits out again to see if this is how the parts come (?))

 

When 'batch building' this might be worth the time and effort to get everything square once the first one has been done and you know what is required.

 

.... Just thinking out loud.

 

Regards,

Ian.

Edited May 14 by 03060
More thoughts added.

[TT100 Diesels]

That is an interesting point. I am planning to complete this first one as a stand alone following the instructions. Then review and see if a jig might be feasible. I also want to check if there is sufficient flex in the chassis to ping the wheelsets out and back in again now the glue has hardened off, as adding them at the time as per instructions requires two sets of hands!

 

If it were 'just' the chassis parts needing to come together, it would make it so much simpler to my mind. 

 

Although relatively complicated, the one big advantage of following the instructions and having the wheels present allowed me to also quickly plonk it on the track and gently 'ease' the core chassis while the glue was still soft so the wheels sat square on the track.

 

Still, much to think about before I commit to the production run!

 

Cheers

 

D.

 

[bradfordbuffer]

16 hours ago, 03060 said:

Hello Dave,

 

Very interested in the Dogfish build as I've also got a box with about 6 of these in a cupboard somewhere ... not much call for them on a 1920s S&DJR layout but maybe one of Lenny's Bo-Bos might tempt me to build them just for a change of subject, although I really need to finish a couple of other things first.

 

Anyway ... watching with interest and good luck with the build.

 

Regards,

Ian.

Buy 5 get one free has a lot to answer for....so I'm in the ME TOO moment....6 in draw waiting.....

G

[TT100 Diesels]

Hi folks,

 

Just a quick update on what I posted 2 hours ago above, been up to the bench, was able to pop out and in the wheelsets no issue at all, despite the 'fragile' nature of the core skeleton chassis. It is however quite flexible, so I guess its a case of treat it carefully. I am sure it will stiffen up nicely once the single piece hopper is bonded in place.

 

Apologies to all the veteran wagon kit builders for my 'faff' type progress, these hoppers are a new one on me, and I have not really built that many wagon kits so far 🤔.

 

Cheers

 

D.

[Lacathedrale]

On 13/05/2024 at 23:25, TT100 Diesels said:

Also made up 16 wheelsets from 9mm dia flat pack wheels and axles. Set the b2b, blob of super glue to lock that and two coats of enamel frame dirt on the front of the wheel pans.

 

 

I think I'm overcomplicating things on these - is there a simple method for getting them on straight and centred on an axle? I've been using the tailstock in a lathe to push the axle into the wheels up until now.

[TT100 Diesels]

2 hours ago, Lacathedrale said:

 

I think I'm overcomplicating things on these - is there a simple method for getting them on straight and centred on an axle? I've been using the tailstock in a lathe to push the axle into the wheels up until now.

 

Faced with a packet of loose wheels and axles, I was thinking that I might need to make a jig to help with accurate assembly.

 

However, I decided to just mess about with them and see how easy it is or not to just push the wheels on, using a bit of scrap wood to protect the pin point axle end while pushing wheels on. By simply measuring the distance from pin point axle end to outer face of wheel pan on each and equalising it got them about right, then in with a b2b gauge to tweak the absolute setting.

 

Ok the first one was a bit of a faff, but once I got a measure of the approx distance from pin point to outer face by eye, deciding to just have a go the same methodology on the other 15 wheelset components needed for the wagon build was actually surprisingly quick and easy. 

 

Perhaps if I had 50 odd to do, developing a jig might have been worth it, but the 16 I needed were done quick. It was a pack of 20, some wheel pan bushes were not right so out of true wheels, so effectively of no use. All my other stocks of 9 and 10.5 wheelsets came ready assembled so only required a b2b check before use.

 

Hope this makes sense. Also, I don't possess any proper machine tools.

 

Cheers

 

D.

 

[Red Devil]

There's 438 miles on the clock ...

Half a tank of diesel left.....

It's dark and I can't find my glasses....

Sod it!

 

With apologies to Mr Belushi and Ackroyd!

 

Well had a run down to Swindon for the 3mm Society AGM yesterday. 

 

Now that they're out in public a and also available to pre order I thought that some pics of the BG kit may be of interest....

 

Website is here

https://3drailworks.com/store/

 

And a few pics....

 

 

 

 

To me it looked a very nice model, underframe detail is all there and at the price mentioned to me with the 3mm Society membership discount looked pretty reasonable for what you get. I've already stuck an order in. There was also a few samples of other Mk1 stock that could come through afterwards. It quite simply looks a rattle the box kit and available with both 12 and 14.2 mm wheel sets.

 

Hope they do well with it.

 

[TT100 Diesels]

That's a lovely looking BG, thanks for posting @Red Devil. More 'wallet stress' !

 

Workbench progress, 37403 still waiting for me to be in the right 'mood' to tackle the flush glazing, I know from previous loco's, need to feel up for it, as there is little margin for error.

 

In the meantime the test build of the first of the Dogfish ballast hopper wagons has been progressing very nicely.

 

 

By taking the good advice in the instructions, painted the hopper separately, but when dry fitting it all together, there is not much wriggle room for some areas of chassis plus it looked like weathering would also be difficult, especially dry brushing into tiny spaces.

 

So I decided to go the whole hog and paint and weather the three main sub assemblies before bonding them together. So these are, hopper, chassis and discharge chutes. 

 

The pair of wheelsets have since had some white dry brushing as well.

 

 

So, all together now ! The only areas not weathered on the test build are the upper vertical hopper sides, because I need to order up the decals from Railtec and apply them pre weathering.

 

 

View on opposite vac cylinder end. I will be honest, the hopper to chassis fit is not perfect, so I ended up on a compromise job. But at this scale, its ok at layout viewing distance. The actual model is about 50% smaller than this cruel close up !

 

 

Peering over into the hopper. Once the final bit of weathering is done, I think the rattle can matt varnish should tone it all down and blend it all together nicely.

 

Thinking about the other 7 wagons, it will need to be a sub assembly build,  paint, decal, weather type procedure, then bring them all together and glue them all up at the end.

 

Still giving thoughts to @03060 's advice on a chassis jig, but now I know I can pop the wheelsets in later ok, I don't require two pairs of hands, so may do one more chassis freestyle and decide after that one.

 

Cheers

 

D.

 

[TT100 Diesels]

Hi,

 

Bit of another update on 37403. In theory it should be finished as its flush glazed now. Finished the glazing earlier today, but that job has forced on some further rework.

 

Total of 18 glazing pieces required cutting and individually fettling. The 4 engine room ones, while simple in shape were virtually too small to handle, but somehow managed. But the cab windscreens have been fighting me all the way.

 

The second  centre screen was cut just a bit too small so in the bin and another done. But the curved screens took ages and offering them up, fettle a bit more with a sanding stick, offer up .... repeat ad infinitum. One would think they are perfect, fraid not, even after all that faff, there ok but not super crisp. But about the best I can do anyway.

 

So after all the initial cutting and test fitting, got to the final fit stage and the damned curved screens were at it again. Would have thought they had not already been test fitted.... Loads of faff, multiple offering up trying for that final push fit and hold in the aperture so then come from behind with thinned gloss varnish to capillary into the glaze / aperture interface to lock them in.

 

Anyway, ended up with some front of aperture paint damage and also a bit of filler out (filler to improve window aperture shape when compared with pix of real 37's). So been out with a 10/0 super fine brush, back filling with matt black into the damage and into any gaps twixt glazing and frame. 

 

The paint repairs shout out, so ended up doing both bonnet and windscreen areas with weathered black to blend it all in, so more 10/0 brush action so as not to mess up the original paint job.

 

It now needs a day at least for it to harden off, then a dead careful enamel wash of roof dirt so it looks weathered again. Still, nearly there now !

 

 

403 back on the bench, all the glazing in and both ends windscreen frame / apertures paint re worked and black areas re done 100% with weathered black.

 

Cheers,

 

D.

 

[97406]

7 hours ago, TT100 Diesels said:

Hi,

 

Bit of another update on 37403. In theory it should be finished as its flush glazed now. Finished the glazing earlier today, but that job has forced on some further rework.

 

Total of 18 glazing pieces required cutting and individually fettling. The 4 engine room ones, while simple in shape were virtually too small to handle, but somehow managed. But the cab windscreens have been fighting me all the way.

 

The second  centre screen was cut just a bit too small so in the bin and another done. But the curved screens took ages and offering them up, fettle a bit more with a sanding stick, offer up .... repeat ad infinitum. One would think they are perfect, fraid not, even after all that faff, there ok but not super crisp. But about the best I can do anyway.

 

So after all the initial cutting and test fitting, got to the final fit stage and the damned curved screens were at it again. Would have thought they had not already been test fitted.... Loads of faff, multiple offering up trying for that final push fit and hold in the aperture so then come from behind with thinned gloss varnish to capillary into the glaze / aperture interface to lock them in.

 

Anyway, ended up with some front of aperture paint damage and also a bit of filler out (filler to improve window aperture shape when compared with pix of real 37's). So been out with a 10/0 super fine brush, back filling with matt black into the damage and into any gaps twixt glazing and frame. 

 

The paint repairs shout out, so ended up doing both bonnet and windscreen areas with weathered black to blend it all in, so more 10/0 brush action so as not to mess up the original paint job.

 

It now needs a day at least for it to harden off, then a dead careful enamel wash of roof dirt so it looks weathered again. Still, nearly there now !

 

 

403 back on the bench, all the glazing in and both ends windscreen frame / apertures paint re worked and black areas re done 100% with weathered black.

 

Cheers,

 

D.

 

 

That really looks the part and well worth the effort and trouble. Before the advent of Laserglaze, I used to cut my glazing from acetate sheet and I worked out an approach where I got a strip that fitted between the sides of the aperture, then worked on the bottom, then the top until it fitted. I feel for you damaging the paint putting it in, I’ve had that a few times too, including when I refitted the cab glazing onto a Hornby 87 and removed great flakes of paint from the windscreen frames.

 

One thing to add is windscreen wipers, but you can drill a couple of holes vertically down  into the bonnet tops under the centre of the driver’s and secondman’s screen and superglue a short length of wire in each side a la Bachmann’s 37s and 40s. They add that little finishing touch and change the character of the cab ends a touch.

[TT100 Diesels]

Thanks for all the interest everyone, and also your kind comments @97406, anyway my faffing is over now with 37403, the final minor bonnet area re-weathering has been finished, so a couple of final pics for the workbench thread.

 

 

 

There are some pix of it in context, but rather than do the usual and debut it on High Peak Junction, it was sunny this morning so I put Crate Lane diorama out in the garden for some natural light pictures.

 

So that's it, no more 37403 faff on this thread......😉.

 

If your interested in the Crate Lane pix, follow the link in my signature panel,

 

Cheers

 

D.

[TT100 Diesels]

Moving back to the Dogfish ballast hopper kit test build, this is now essentially completed, with decals applied, top panels weathered and matt rattle can varnish applied. Couplings not fitted, that is for when all 8 are done.

 

Vac cyl end.

 

Think I got that ' rusty, dusty' look with 'some' olive green still present. Most pics on Paul Bartletts excellent wagon site are just shades of rust!

 

 

Went to town on the inside, as well as the matt varnish, some white weathering powder was added and sprayed over again. Kind of liking the empty look.

 

Other loco bits and bobs carried out were sorting a coupler on one end of both 45127 and 37403. Both locos have since hauled trains now on HPJ layout for the first time as finished locos.

 

 

On the Peak, 0.5mm dia rod drilled into the bogie headstock and secured with super glue and painted matt black to "hide" it. At this end, during the build, I omitted the two yellow pipes (MR air), and the ETH jumper cable, since I figured they would get in the way of the coupling loop, they would have done.

 

 

On the 37, the only thing I did to make provision for a coupler hoop when populating the buffer beam detail on one end was to model the screw shackle as folded back on itself and stowed on the draw hook. It worked and gave me sufficient clearance for a coupling hoop.

 

 

This was a bit trickey..... Took a couple of goes to bend up a passable coupling hoop from 0.5mm dia rod to squeeze in between the mini ploughs to engage in holes in the bogie transom drilled at an angle. A drop of super glue fixed it all. 

 

The coupling hoop was painted matt black before final fit up. Really very pleased how this turned out, it would have not looked so good if it had to be fixed off the actual mini ploughs.

 

Thanks as always for the interest in my stuff.

 

Cheers

 

D.

[BigAndy]

On 19/05/2024 at 22:08, Red Devil said:

There's 438 miles on the clock ...

Half a tank of diesel left.....

It's dark and I can't find my glasses....

Sod it!

 

With apologies to Mr Belushi and Ackroyd!

 

Well had a run down to Swindon for the 3mm Society AGM yesterday. 

 

Now that they're out in public a and also available to pre order I thought that some pics of the BG kit may be of interest....

 

Website is here

https://3drailworks.com/store/

 

And a few pics....

 

 

 

 

To me it looked a very nice model, underframe detail is all there and at the price mentioned to me with the 3mm Society membership discount looked pretty reasonable for what you get. I've already stuck an order in. There was also a few samples of other Mk1 stock that could come through afterwards. It quite simply looks a rattle the box kit and available with both 12 and 14.2 mm wheel sets.

 

Hope they do well with it.

 

Thanks to Red Devil for that mini revue!

 

I am one half of the developers of the BG and I'd just like to say, this is not a kit, it's a fully ready, NRTR model - just like Lenny's Motive Power at Lincoln Locos.

 

It will come fully assembled, bearings, wheels all fitted for you and in a bespoke transportation box. You can plant it straight on your layout then all you'll have to do is paint it.

What we believe is a first in 3mm, we have developed a close coupling NEM pocket system that will hold the coaches close together on straights and then expand on curves, before closing up again on the next straight.

We've designed it to take one of Westhill Wagon Works 6mm Hunt magnetic couplings - you'll just need to clip the coupling into the pocket. Of course, if you like, you can always use the TT120 coupling or indeed an N gauge NEM compatible coupling. It's up to you!

 

There is also the option of purchasing a completely and fully ready to run, professionally painted BG via the website too - if you feel your painting isn't up to it!

 

The BG will also come with laser cut flushglazing for you to fit, but if you wish to purchase a fully RTR BG, then all that will be fitted for you.

 

There will be professionally taken photos of the full range of BG's appearing on the website within the next week or so, you can therefore, see the standard at which I airbrush and paint my models for you.

 

In the meantime, if you'ld like to have a look at my own website, it's:  www.javmar.co.uk

 

There is a link on the homepage for the BG's if you wish to go to the website for them, or you can also get to the coaches via: www.3drailworks.com

 

We will be at DEMU Showcase this year with our JAVmar trade stand, where you will be able to see the fully decorated BG's up close and personal.

 

There is also a large range of 3mm 3D printed detailing parts that will be available via 3dRailworks very soon. I hope to have a large selection of these detailing bits with me at Showcase, so do come along and have a chat! There will be such goodies as Mini ploughs, High intensity headlights, air pipes, ETH sockets and all sorts of different bits for you to have a look at.

 

We've also developed 3d printed BR MK1 bogies, Commonwealths and of course B4's. Again, very soon via the website, these will be available to purchase on their own without the necessity to purchase a BG.

 

BTW, if you do have a look at us on 3drailworks, you'lll see that appearing very soon will be a 63.5ft MK1 FK and also a 63.5ft BCK - all complete with interiors. Again, we'll have some of the prototype printed versions of these for you to pore over at Showcase!

 

cheers for now

 

Andy

[bradfordbuffer]

15 minutes ago, BigAndy said:

Thanks to Red Devil for that mini revue!

 

I am one half of the developers of the BG and I'd just like to say, this is not a kit, it's a fully ready, NRTR model - just like Lenny's Motive Power at Lincoln Locos.

 

It will come fully assembled, bearings, wheels all fitted for you and in a bespoke transportation box. You can plant it straight on your layout then all you'll have to do is paint it.

What we believe is a first in 3mm, we have developed a close coupling NEM pocket system that will hold the coaches close together on straights and then expand on curves, before closing up again on the next straight.

We've designed it to take one of Westhill Wagon Works 6mm Hunt magnetic couplings - you'll just need to clip the coupling into the pocket. Of course, if you like, you can always use the TT120 coupling or indeed an N gauge NEM compatible coupling. It's up to you!

 

There is also the option of purchasing a completely and fully ready to run, professionally painted BG via the website too - if you feel your painting isn't up to it!

 

The BG will also come with laser cut flushglazing for you to fit, but if you wish to purchase a fully RTR BG, then all that will be fitted for you.

 

There will be professionally taken photos of the full range of BG's appearing on the website within the next week or so, you can therefore, see the standard at which I airbrush and paint my models for you.

 

In the meantime, if you'ld like to have a look at my own website, it's:  www.javmar.co.uk

 

There is a link on the homepage for the BG's if you wish to go to the website for them, or you can also get to the coaches via: www.3drailworks.com

 

We will be at DEMU Showcase this year with our JAVmar trade stand, where you will be able to see the fully decorated BG's up close and personal.

 

There is also a large range of 3mm 3D printed detailing parts that will be available via 3dRailworks very soon. I hope to have a large selection of these detailing bits with me at Showcase, so do come along and have a chat! There will be such goodies as Mini ploughs, High intensity headlights, air pipes, ETH sockets and all sorts of different bits for you to have a look at.

 

We've also developed 3d printed BR MK1 bogies, Commonwealths and of course B4's. Again, very soon via the website, these will be available to purchase on their own without the necessity to purchase a BG.

 

BTW, if you do have a look at us on 3drailworks, you'lll see that appearing very soon will be a 63.5ft MK1 FK and also a 63.5ft BCK - all complete with interiors. Again, we'll have some of the prototype printed versions of these for you to pore over at Showcase!

 

cheers for now

 

Andy

Ohhh golden age of 3mm thanks for time and effort ....I hope it will be well supported by members

G

[BetweenTheTunnels]

23 hours ago, BigAndy said:

It will come fully assembled, bearings, wheels all fitted for you and in a bespoke transportation box. You can plant it straight on your layout then all you'll have to do is paint it.

 

We've also developed 3d printed BR MK1 bogies, Commonwealths and of course B4's. Again, very soon via the website, these will be available to purchase on their own without the necessity to purchase a BG.

Andy

 

Well done on this. For me, im not convinced that at £59 a go, they are a viable option (nothing against the build, quality or design, just purely on cost) .... although having just finished designing some etches for a Mk1 SK coach, I may of course change my mind once I've worked out the cost of my etched version and factored in wheels and 3D printed interior!   But for many they may well provide an easy option in to 3mm, so i hope things work for you.

 

Richie

[bradfordbuffer]

1 hour ago, BetweenTheTunnels said:

 

Well done on this. For me, im not convinced that at £59 a go, they are a viable option (nothing against the build, quality or design, just purely on cost) .... although having just finished designing some etches for a Mk1 SK coach, I may of course change my mind once I've worked out the cost of my etched version and factored in wheels and 3D printed interior!   But for many they may well provide an easy option in to 3mm, so i hope things work for you.

 

Richie

Do you know worsley works do a range of mk1 etches including sk?