What's on your 3mm workbench

[Johnson044]

Ok - the idea was to make a model of La France as a Christmas present. Well - even though it's still Christmas that deadline has bitten the dust.However, I've made a start. 

 

The first issue is that it's a bit broad in the gauge, at around 15mm and the frames are very robustly integral with the footplate.

 

Having stripped the model down and ditched the chimney (vile), buffers (huge and unseemly) and tender (quite good but inappropriate, although does provide some spare bogie sides) I took a mini drill and stack of carborundum discs to the casting, put on some Floyd and ground away. Took a scalpel and emery paper to the main body casting and removed the plumbing that the GW didn't want either.

[Johnson044]

...and so it sat for a while until Boxing day, when I had a bit of a spurt of activity.

 

First thing was to sort out a tender - I'd luckily found one of about the right size as a part-finished white metal kit on ebay. Some handrails, a replacement rear step (from the discarded Nord tender) and some brake standards that I'd bought online and it's more or less there. 

 

The loco has gained a chimney and better front buffers, which I turned up from bits of 0 gauge frame spacer (chimney), Slaters axle (buffer heads) and wagon bearings (buffer housings), a re-profiled cab roof from Plastikard and some rather over-scale 4mm handrail knobs.

[Johnson044]

The bit below the footplate troubles me. Firstly, it's all pretty tiny. The eyesight isn't what it used to be and sometimes I struggle with 7mm. I've heard the full-size GWR Atlantic valve gear described as "Watchmaking" so that doesn't bode well for a start.

 

The first time reality hit was when I realised that the ambitious motorization plan just wasn't going to happen. The tiny Fauhaber I'd earmarked for La France was much to big to fit in the tightly corseted French firebox and has since found its way into an 0 gauge saddle tank (or parts thereof). The failure to hit the Christmas deadline was the next stumbling block.

 

Ok - so - La France will just sit in a siding (or more likely on a little hardwood base - but a bit nicer than the Chinese one).

 

The next stage is to see what can be done to make the wheels at least go around.

 

This is the fall-back position. Both sides are a mirror image - so the valve gear is in the same position on each side and not quartered. I'm keeping these bits in case it all goes butternut squash shaped.

 

The wheels themselves aren't too bad. I did have a grandiose scheme for pressing on some Ultrascale EM gauge tyres but it's not going to happen. The bogie sides are rather good.

[Johnson044]

However, N Brass are a really helpful establishment and they do some 21mm coupling rods and a useful etch of valve gear bits, plus some possible slide bars - and they sold me some Farish compound crossheads- I've cut the big ends off the Farish rods and soldered the remains to the N Brass rods so I have some of the correct length. I need some 14BA nuts and bolts for crankpins now - and I'll try cutting out some plastikard frames.

[Silverfox17]

2 hours ago, Johnson044 said:

The bit below the footplate troubles me. Firstly, it's all pretty tiny. The eyesight isn't what it used to be and sometimes I struggle with 7mm. I've heard the full-size GWR Atlantic valve gear described as "Watchmaking" so that doesn't bode well for a start.

 

The first time reality hit was when I realised that the ambitious motorization plan just wasn't going to happen. The tiny Fauhaber I'd earmarked for La France was much to big to fit in the tightly corseted French firebox and has since found its way into an 0 gauge saddle tank (or parts thereof). The failure to hit the Christmas deadline was the next stumbling block.

 

Ok - so - La France will just sit in a siding (or more likely on a little hardwood base - but a bit nicer than the Chinese one).

 

The next stage is to see what can be done to make the wheels at least go around.

 

This is the fall-back position. Both sides are a mirror image - so the valve gear is in the same position on each side and not quartered. I'm keeping these bits in case it all goes butternut squash shaped.

 

The wheels themselves aren't too bad. I did have a grandiose scheme for pressing on some Ultrascale EM gauge tyres but it's not going to happen. The bogie sides are rather good.

My Stirling single would not take a motor possibly smaller than your La France so I fitted a Halling bogie into the tender body.  I have motorised a few Atlas bodies but with Tri-ang TT chassis's.

[Johnson044]

A  tender drive is still a possibility Silverfox - but for now I'd just be happy if the wheels went round.

 

I've had a go at a very simple set of frames from various thicknesses of black plastikard, shortened the axles and modified some Slaters 0 gauge wagon bearings to suit. I bought some N Brass 21mm wheelbase coupling rods because that was the dimension I scaled off the cosmetic plastic rods that were glued directly to the faces of the wheels.However, when I set the axles 21mm apart (and 7' seems to be the correct wheelbase) the flanges clashed - I think in real life you could barely get a finger between the real flanges - much as the Bluebell Railway new build Beachy Head - so I'm not surprised I've hit a problem here. I've altered the frames to give about 0.5mm between the flanges and I'll have to see what I can do with the rods. Oh yes - I needed to remove some of the firebox behind the splashers too - but it does start to feel like there is some progress.

[Silverfox17]

10 hours ago, Johnson044 said:

However, when I set the axles 21mm apart (and 7' seems to be the correct wheelbase) the flanges clashed - I think in real life you could barely get a finger between the real flanges - much as the Bluebell Railway new build Beachy Head - so I'm not surprised I've hit a problem here

I admire you for even thinking of using the wheels and axles, all my Atlas conversions have a Tri-ang chassis in.

 

I have an Atlantic, SR H2, and as you say the flanges are very close together. It is fitted with Romford TT wheels which were too fine for what I wanted but 00 would not fit as the flanges would foul each other.

[Silverfox17]

Another TT rtr loco, this time also painted. This is a project from Lincoln-locos and Martin Olley.

 

 

[Johnson044]

I do like the railbus. I see that on Shapeways there is a 3mm scale version of the 00 Airfix one, which I'm tempted by. As a matter of interest how did you do the windows? Are they Kitmaster ones?

[Silverfox17]

41 minutes ago, Johnson044 said:

I do like the railbus. I see that on Shapeways there is a 3mm scale version of the 00 Airfix one, which I'm tempted by. As a matter of interest how did you do the windows? Are they Kitmaster ones?

This railbus was ready to run, the body and windows are 3D printed by Lincoln-locos, who make the chassis's too.  They also do the Park Royal (Airfix) but not the windows for it yet.  Lincoln-locos make over 60 3mm bodies from railbus/DMU/electric/diesel/steam.

[Benjamin Brady]

Hi All, 

 

I am just starting out in 3mm, after spending years helping to operate a 3mm layout and admiring the stock I have decided to take the plunge and have a go myself, here is the tender for a K2 which is my current project 

 

Benjamin

[bradfordbuffer]

4 minutes ago, Benjamin Brady said:

Hi All, 

 

I am just starting out in 3mm, after spending years helping to operate a 3mm layout and admiring the stock I have decided to take the plunge and have a go myself, here is the tender for a K2 which is my current project 

 

Benjamin

Looks good.....I bet your 'eggstatic' with the build!.....sorry I'm going back in my box!

[Benjamin Brady]

I know it, it is such a terrible location for shots :p I shall try harder next time 

[bradfordbuffer]

1 minute ago, Benjamin Brady said:

I know it, it is such a terrible location for shots :p I shall try harder next time 

 

1 minute ago, Benjamin Brady said:

I know it, it is such a terrible location for shots :p I shall try harder next time 

Don't worry wife but some stuff on ebay and Facebook once.....took photos on her desk in the background was her notice board with addresses, phone numbers and several pass words!...words failed me! Retaining was given!

I'm resisting temptation for more egg jokes..

[Silverfox17]

18 hours ago, Benjamin Brady said:

Hi All, 

 

I am just starting out in 3mm, after spending years helping to operate a 3mm layout and admiring the stock I have decided to take the plunge and have a go myself, here is the tender for a K2 which is my current project 

 

Benjamin

Is this from a kit or scratchbuilt?

[Benjamin Brady]

Hi, 

 

It is the London Road kit from the society. 

[Johnson044]

A little more progress on La France. I made a simple keeper plate from black plastikard, incorporating the dummy spring outlines and brake shoes from the Atlas model. The bogie now more or less done and I've (rather messily - but in mitigation I am used to 7mm scale) increased the centres of the coupling rods by soldering on some small brass washers which I filed up from some spare 0 gauge brake etchings. The coupling rod holes were about 1.5mm diameter and the holes in the "washers" just big enough to fit over the 14ba bolts which I'm using for crank pins, so the big original holes allowed for the centres to be adjusted to suit the frames. It does bind slightly (what a surprise!) but nothing that a bit of fettling won't put right. Not going to be powered but just in case one day a motorized inspection saloon gets coupled behind I do want it to be fairly free running.  Cylinders and valve gear (probably very simplified) next.

[Silverfox17]

6 minutes ago, Johnson044 said:

A little more progress on La France. I made a simple keeper plate from black plastikard, incorporating the dummy spring outlines and brake shoes from the Atlas model. The bogie now more or less done and I've (rather messily - but in mitigation I am used to 7mm scale) increased the centres of the coupling rods by soldering on some small brass washers which I filed up from some spare 0 gauge brake etchings. The coupling rod holes were about 1.5mm diameter and the holes in the "washers" just big enough to fit over the 14ba bolts which I'm using for crank pins, so the big original holes allowed for the centres to be adjusted to suit the frames. It does bind slightly (what a surprise!) but nothing that a bit of fettling won't put right. Not going to be powered but just in case one day a motorized inspection saloon gets coupled behind I do want it to be fairly free running.  Cylinders and valve gear (probably very simplified) next.

What have you set the wheels to, 12mm, 13.5mm or 14.2mm?  I don't know how the flanges will cope on track as they are very fine but I suppose on finescale track they might be okay.

[Johnson044]

It's 12mm Silverfox- not really intended to be a running model, just a bit of fun - the wheels have quite fine flanges and are, after all, plastic - but just in case a motorized dynamometer car or Ocean Mails van or something ever gets hung on behind I'd like it to be in with a fighting chance of at least one circuit before something melts.

[Johnson044]

I've been a lousy engineer. The coupling rods just turn on lengths of 14BA at the mo. I'll see if I can bore the eyes out a little and make some tiny sleeves of tube to go over the bolt thread and act as some sort of bearing. The half-finished 7mm scale 0-4-0 saddle tank that awaits seems absolutely huge!

 

Must do something about that curly handrail too...

[Silverfox17]

38 minutes ago, Johnson044 said:

I've been a lousy engineer. The coupling rods just turn on lengths of 14BA at the mo. I'll see if I can bore the eyes out a little and make some tiny sleeves of tube to go over the bolt thread and act as some sort of bearing. The half-finished 7mm scale 0-4-0 saddle tank that awaits seems absolutely huge!

 

Must do something about that curly handrail too...

When I have to use other than Tri-ang wheels I use the deluxe Romford bearings which have a thread on the spindle as well which a threaded collar fits on. This proved excellent on my Atlantic as the collar was a perfect fit in the Tri-ang coupling rods.

[Johnson044]

Yes- I saw those on your photo and l need to try to replicate them somehow. The wheels run reasonably truly, the quartering isn't far out and they are quite firm on the axles - unfortunately the 14ba's are threaded in from behind, with a dab of Loctite so trying to remove them and retro-fit some Romford ones would be too destructive so I'll have to see what I can make do with what I have. So used to what is available in the larger scale- TT's been quite a steep learning curve.

[Silverfox17]

18 minutes ago, Johnson044 said:

Yes- I saw those on your photo and l need to try to replicate them somehow. The wheels run reasonably truly, the quartering isn't far out and they are quite firm on the axles - unfortunately the 14ba's are threaded in from behind, with a dab of Loctite so trying to remove them and retro-fit some Romford ones would be too destructive so I'll have to see what I can make do with what I have. So used to what is available in the larger scale- TT's been quite a steep learning curve.

I understand the situation about the crankpins now so good luck. Look forward to seeing it finished. I do have an Atlas City of Truro to attempt one day and thought I had a good chassis for it but the wheelbase is wrong so needs a new one making one day.

Edited January 9, 2022 by Silverfox17

[Johnson044]

Having had a go at making some small crankpin bushes for one side and ended up with indifferent work that I have mixed feelings about I've taken a step back from the mechanical niceties and started painting. God it's all tiny! Not happy with the green - I tried Humbrol Nr 3 Brunswick Green and it doesn't look right to me- being decidedly polarised towards a freelance 7mm scale company for such along time I'd never realised just how different BR green and GWR green is! Silverfox - what paint do you use for your GWR locos?

 

[Silverfox17]

10 hours ago, Johnson044 said:

Having had a go at making some small crankpin bushes for one side and ended up with indifferent work that I have mixed feelings about I've taken a step back from the mechanical niceties and started painting. God it's all tiny! Not happy with the green - I tried Humbrol Nr 3 Brunswick Green and it doesn't look right to me- being decidedly polarised towards a freelance 7mm scale company for such along time I'd never realised just how different BR green and GWR green is! Silverfox - what paint do you use for your GWR locos?

 

My WR (or any BR region) locos are done with Precision BR green or Rover Brooklands green. The latter is slightly lighter than "proper" BR green but was used as a Dublo copy.  La France should be GWR green which I think has a different hue/shade and Precision do make that colour. Humbrol Brunswick is no where near.  In real life no BR loco was painted in Brunswick, the standard BR colour was something like  Land Rover mid or dark chrome green. The word Brunswick was used by a model magazine (50's I think) by mistake and readers continued its use incorrectly ever since.

 

Garry