Ruston Posted May 19, 2012 Author Share Posted May 19, 2012 Cheers, Debs! Nowt much to report lately but I have been working on another loco kit (although I really ought to get the wiring fixed and get the layout working again) that's been unbuilt and in its box for far too long. I won't bore you with the construction as I think we all know what a load of flat sheets of etched brass look like. It's a Markham 0-4-0ST an the kit is from Agenoria. I intend this one to be really filthy and uncared for so even at the basic paint stage I've already used Maskol over a rusty coloured base coat and pulled bits off to effect peeling paint and a nameplate that's either been stolen or sold to an enthusiast. I've only just made a start on the frames, which are to be fully sprung, using Slaters hornblocks and guides. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 Cheers Ruston many thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted June 4, 2012 Author Share Posted June 4, 2012 (edited) The Markham is almost finished. It needs some pickups fitting and it's ready to go. I've fitted the decoder but haven't been able to test it yet. It has been tested on the rolling road with straight DC and seems quite smooth. As you can see I've really gone to town with the weathering! Looking at the photos It could do with some representation of grease on the buffer blocks so I'll see to that when I have it apart to fit the pickups. The acid test for the springing will be once it's actually running on track. This is the first one I've built with springing so we'll see how it goes... Edited June 4, 2012 by Ruston 17 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TimC Posted June 4, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 4, 2012 I like the Markham, Dave, very nice! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 Looking at the photos It could do with some representation of grease on the buffer blocks.... Funny you should put that right under the picture, as it's exactly what I thought as I scrolled down!! Other than that... fantastic!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart-AU Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 HI... Only just found this thread and I must say you have done a great job on the layout and rolling stok. Enjoyed the vid Thanks for sharing Stuart-AU Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted June 14, 2012 Author Share Posted June 14, 2012 (edited) I've finished the car park. I started work on it a couple of months ago by rolling and laying air-dring clay. I could only roll up to a size of around 6x5 inches and eventually covered it all by butting the pieces up against each other but as the clay dried cracks appeared at some joins. The clay was painted with Humbrol acrylics. I've taken advantage of some of the cracks by filling them with weeds. I was asking elsewhere on the forum about weeds and grass for O gauge but I found this Noch stuff in my local model shop today. I also built a chain link fence out of suitably sized softwood strip and off cuts of netting intended as a fly curtain for the conservatory. This is made from nylon or something similar and the holes are hexagonal so I thought it would be ideal for a fence. Edited June 14, 2012 by Ruston 18 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TimC Posted June 15, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 15, 2012 Dave - Very nice! Love the car park - I've got something similar to do on Somerset Lane so will try the clay (was it Das? or something similar). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted June 15, 2012 Author Share Posted June 15, 2012 Thanks, Tim. I don't think it was DAS and I've thrown the empty packet away so I can't tell you what it was. I'll look in the model shop where I bought it the next time I'm there. I settled on clay after considering painted foamboard and deciding that it was too perfectly flat and textureless. I also considered pouring polyfilla, as I did with the loading shed yard but didn't want a repeat of all that mess again. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ruston Posted June 18, 2012 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 18, 2012 (edited) I've been doing some work on the other end of the railway. Here is the tank filling stage, backscene building and the tar still. I cheated and bought the brick building. It's a resin product from Skytrex and I've added the canopy, pipe brackets and pipes. I bought it for £25 unpainted but the painted items sell for £50! Are there really people so rubbish at modelling that they'll shell out another 25 notes for the sake of an hour or two and a few pennies worth of paint? The tar still and other bits. It's scratchbuilt and loosely based on something real but what all the pipes do is anyone's guess. If in doubt blind them with science! ;-) It needs weathering yet. Edited June 18, 2012 by Ruston 21 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 2mmMark Posted June 19, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 19, 2012 Wow, that last photo (DSC00836a) is stunning. I was convinced I was looking at the real thing. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted September 14, 2012 Author Share Posted September 14, 2012 (edited) It's been almost 3 months since I posted anything about this but then there's not been anything to report until this week. Having had a relatively quiet week work-wise I've cracked on with the scenics at the end of the railway that is, as yet, unballasted. I've put down some hardstanding in the form of stone setts (scribed DAS clay). I've never used this stuff before and all I can say is that scribing the setts is tedious! Other things have been making a ladder for and handrail around the storage tank, a hut/yard office, a low-relief building to go at the far end, and a perimeter wall and gates. The Hut: Built from plasticard and English bond embossed plasticard, cornflakes packet roof tiles, umbrella spoke gutter and plastic rod downpipe. The door and window frame are resin parts and the spout is a whitemetal casting. The wall: English bond embossed plasticard sandwiching foamboard. When it came to finishing off the top I gave it a lot of thought - something like this wouldn't have had anything fancy as capping, such as stone, and would probably have had brick stretchers across the top but, as far as I know, there's no such thing in the Slaters range. Individually cutting out bricks from the sheet would take forever and would look rough as there's no way of cutting the mortar course accurately enough. So it looked like I would have to put capping stones on it but then, whilst delivering a load to a company in some back street or other in Sheffield, I spied a wall that was finished with a layer of mortar with lots and lots of broken glass stuck in it - a crude attempt at keeping ne'er do wells out. I took a piece of glass and ground it up with a pestle and mortar. I then ran a layer of superglue along the top of the wall and tipped the ground glass onto it. There's rather more glass than on the prototype but it looks OK. I'll just have to be very careful if ever I have to re-rail a wagon in the nearest siding! Edited September 14, 2012 by Ruston 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 Your usual excellent work Dave - love the glass, and the building. Keep it coming - please.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 2mmMark Posted September 17, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 17, 2012 The brick walls around the NPL in Teddington were topped with the mortar/broken glass mix and I can recall seing it used elsewhere too. Seems to have fallen out of favour these days. Looks like a good deterrent to exhibition pokers & prodders...! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45157 Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 Nice and spot on accurate. As a lad in the late 50s early 60s, I remember the local glass works had broken bottles cemented onto the top of the boundry walls. regards Stewart Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted October 3, 2012 Author Share Posted October 3, 2012 I'm glad that it's appreciated. I don't think I've seen it modelled before. I've been working away on this area of the layout and will soon have some more photos to post but here's a crappy one I took on my phone to show progress. After scribing them I went over the setts again to knock off the square edges but I don't think that I rounded them off enough now they're painted. I used different shades of beige/khaki/brown/grey acrylics to pick them out and then sloshed a load of thined black enamel on to get into the mortar and to tone down the whole lot. They could probably use a coat of matt varnish before they're finished. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ruston Posted October 7, 2012 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 7, 2012 (edited) Back on page 4, and almost two years ago, I dismantled a Land Rover. Well here it is rebuilt. The three quarter tilt is made from newspaper with a plasticard frame inside. The rolled up flap is made from brown paper. The Lincoln arc welder is made from bits of plasticard/strip/tube with copper wire wound and painted for cables. It's taken longer to rebuild this than it did my real series 2! A shot of the Peckett in the works area after more work has been done and the ballasting completed. Edited October 7, 2012 by Ruston 21 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 That series II truck cab is excellent. We had one when we were kids, and I hated it (previous Landy was a pre-series I). One of us had to take turns riding in the back, and I always felt out of it and lonely when it was my turn......... (I didn't have to share it with a PTO driven welder, though!). Your model takes me right back. That Pecket is looking the Dogs B....... as well! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ruston Posted October 10, 2012 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 10, 2012 It's not that good, Giles. With my Series Land Rover rivet counting head on the sills are too shallow and the door hinges are wrong for a 2. The model was obviously based on a series 3 but we'll gloss over that. A couple of pictures showing some more of the end of the layout and featuring my latest loco - a Manning Wardle class H. More details about the loco in my blog thing - link in signature. 24 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 Ah.... Headlights are in the grill in the series II position though....... Love the Manning Wardle - wish I could justify getting one! The buffers need dirtying to match the rest, but I'm by jealous. Best, G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc smith Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 Thanks for PM'ing me the link to this thread I can't believe I've missed it! Just goes to show how much good stuff there is on rmweb these days Cracking modelling sir, just cracking Then whole thing has a lovely grimy atmospheric feel to it, and your level of detail is high, and consistent throughout Super stuff - keep 'em coming Cheers 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheCromptonParkinson Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 I've only just seen this too, hate missing such awesomeness. Really REALLY like it. Some of those views show how nailed you've got the whole industrial atmosphere. I wanna see some more! Oly 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ruston Posted November 17, 2012 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 17, 2012 For the first time since I started this layout I have played with it run it properly. A bit of fettling on some dodgy connections and a going over of the track with a graphite stick on the railheads seems to have allowed much better running for one thing. I've also given some purpose to shuffling the wagons around... I printed off a sheet with each item of rolling stock and each location that wagons can be shunted to, and then glued them onto a coco pops box. Once dry the sheet was cut up to make cards. The hidden sidings can only take a locomotive and up to four wagons each so that is the maximum train length and therefore the amount of cards that are picked. If a tank wagon is picked it can only go to the tank loading/discharge siding so no location card is picked for it. If an open wagon or van is picked then a location card is also picked with it. The locations are Building A, Building B, Gate 3 siding and Loading Dock. The wagons are placed in the train in the order their cards are picked and the loco is despatched from the shed to the exchange sidings to collect whatever the BR trip engine has left there... Each wagon is then shunted to it's destination. Any wagons already in the locations are assumed to be finished with (i.e. if they brought goods in they are now empty and if they came in to take a load they are now loaded) and have to be moved and assembled into a train to depart. It makes operating the layout that bit more interesting as one has to think about how to split the rake and get each wagon to where it has to go. All couplings have a steel link a the end and are coupled using a pen torch that has a length of brass wire, with a tiny magnet on the end, soldered onto it. 20 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bufferbeam Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 Superb, really like the aerial views. The layout has genuine atmosphere. Looking forward to seeing more of it. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 Some great stuff happening here, keep it up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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