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Guest Isambarduk

You will have great fun with your most fortunate purchase, Ruston; well done!  The cessation of the production of the 85A Hunslet was a sad loss to 0 gauge but Martin did go on to give the world Templot instead. 

 

The Hunslet kit is very well engineered and lends itself to easy mods.  I bought one and reworked it quite a bit to become the first of the class, Airedale, which was a little different from the production run of the 'standard' 15" class.

 

post-5428-0-19376700-1370850669.jpg

 

There is a little about how I did this at: www.davidlosmith.co.uk/HunsletAiredale.htm

 

Please keep us up to date with pictures as you progress, Ruston.

 

David

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Morning Dave,

 

I have bought yet another loco. Brianthesnail advertised it on here and within 5 minutes of the ad going up I'd seen the ad and arranged to buy the kit.

 

It's a 15" Hunslet 0-6-0ST and the kit is by 85A models. It's a plastic kit with a RTR chassis and was already partly built, all I had to do was fit the fiddly bits and assemble the sub assemblies into a loco then weight it and paint it.

 

I'm making a few small alterations - I've cut the lip off the chimney to make it a plain stovepipe chimney (ike the engines of this type that were fitted with Kylpor exhaust system), have added a wooden cab floor and handbrake column (I don't know if the kit is meant to come with a column but if it did it wasn't in the box). I'm thinking of making some representation of an underfeed stoker.

 

attachicon.gif85AHunslet-001.jpg

 

attachicon.gif85AHunslet-002.jpg

 

When I saw this advertised I had a quick look myself and thought it would look good on BTS.

 

Well here it is!

 

The build looks good and I'm looking forwards to seeing the finished result.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

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The 85A Hunslet was a splendid model. I picked this one up on eBay for £85. A buffer was missing , some handrails were broken and there were no reversing or brake levers. All of these faults were easily corrected. I then added lamp irons, sand-pipes, guard rails over the bunker spectacles, front steps and operating gear for the sand-boxes. I fitted DCC sound. She was a nice model, but has since been sold as I have a surfeit of Hudswell Clarkes.

post-13142-0-35500700-1370926682_thumb.jpg

post-13142-0-60137300-1370926684_thumb.jpg

post-13142-0-12404300-1370926687_thumb.jpg

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After seeing those I'm not sure I'll dare to post any pictures of mine when it's finished.

 

Oh, come now, no false modesty. We've seen the quality of your modelling and weathering - I'm fully expecting  your Hunslet to be a gem.....

Edited by chaz
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Don't get me wrong, I'm happy with what I do and my engines are alright but they're not quite as good as those by Chris and David. Lining being the main difference and the weathering being another (not to mention the general standard of workmanship).

 

Someone who I know and who had seen my 7mm narrow gauge layout in the flesh so-to-speak, and who isn't a member of this forum, once told me that he'd been looking on here and saw modelling by "Ruston" and that he knew immediately that it was my modelling as he recognised my "style" long before he knew for sure who Ruston was.

 

The aim with a layout, especially when it comes to painting and weathering, is for it to look as much like the real thing as possible. If you have a certain style then surely you've failed in this to some degree...

 

Enough talk, I'm off to finish detailing the cab. I'm off work sick today so I may as well use the time contructively.

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It's just about finished.

post-494-0-80287000-1371155374.jpg

It's a very simple kit to built and the moulded detail is excellent. It's a bit sparse on the small details though, especially in the cab - or it could just be that mine had parts missing. I've chipped and test-run it and it performs well. It'll even drive on the first of 28 notches on the Dynamis.

 

Things I've added are as follows:

 

Sand pipes

Window protector bars on cab rear

Regulator handle

Reversing lever

pipes & wheels

Wooden floor

Fire iron brackets

Brake Column (duplicate from a brass kit)

Lamp iron & lamp at front

Oil cans

Crew

 

Making the protector bars

post-494-0-12282900-1371155444.jpg

 

I'll get some photos of it on the railway tomorrow.

 

You really wish you'd kept it now, don't you, Matt (Brian)? :stinker:  It knocks the spots off any Dapol 08 IMHO.

Edited by Ruston
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"The aim with a layout, especially when it comes to painting and weathering, is for it to look as much like the real thing as possible. If you have a certain style then surely you've failed in this to some degree..."

 

No, not at all !

 

Chris Nevard's layouts are instantly recognisable, as are Sandhills', and neither could be said to be lacking in realism.

You have an exquisite style you should be proud of.

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That's a great result. :)

 

Brings back memories of pleasant hours in the workshop designing and making the tooling. And not so pleasant hours sweating over a hot moulding machine to churn them out. Time marches on though -- it's now 15 years since the last one went out. Where does it all go?

 

Martin.

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It's just about finished.

attachicon.gif85AHunslet-016.jpg

It's a very simple kit to built and the moulded detail is excellent. It's a bit sparse on the small details though, especially in the cab - or it could just be that mine had parts missing. I've chipped and test-run it and it performs well. It'll even drive on the first of 28 notches on the Dynamis.

 

Things I've added are as follows:

 

Sand pipes

Window protector bars on cab rear

Regulator handle

Reversing lever

pipes & wheels

Wooden floor

Fire iron brackets

Brake Column (duplicate from a brass kit)

Lamp iron & lamp at front

Oil cans

Crew

 

Making the protector bars

attachicon.gif85AHunslet-005.jpg

 

I'll get some photos of it on the railway tomorrow.

 

You really wish you'd kept it now, don't you, Matt (Brian)? :stinker:  It knocks the spots off any Dapol 08 IMHO.

Very nice job. No idea what you were worried about.

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Nice result Dave, but I'm not sure if the cropped chimney improves the appearance, although the original is rather on the tall side.  Its reminiscent of the chimneys on the ten NCB Yorkshire Area 15" Hunslets fitted with Hunslet underfeed stokers and Kylpor exhausts, although they were perhaps slightly larger in diameter and had a fabricated base.

Edited by PGH
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Thanks for the comments, chaps.

 

Philip, regarding the chimney - you're right, the replacements do seem wider then the original and the little triangular pieces show up in your photo. I may have a go at making one at a later date. I haven't done anything about the stoker though. It wouldn't be something a loco shuffling a few wagons up and down somewhere like BT&S woiuld ever need. I have plans for a colliery layout though so I will fit it if and when I build that.

 

post-494-0-65624100-1371214877.jpg

 

post-494-0-98213700-1371214919.jpg

 

post-494-0-33342400-1371214963.jpg

I've added a saw and a woodpile for lighting up the engines. The sign inside the cab reads "Any driver permitting unauthorised persons to ride on the loco will be liable to dismissal". So don't go to Bury's and expect a cab ride. Damn elf n safety!

 

post-494-0-38466500-1371215021.jpg

 

An envelope from Narrow Planet landed today. It consists of name and number plates for the W4, name and number plates for the X2 (Admiral Duncan, w/n 1888) and names for the Manning Wardles (Jervis and Pellew) so I'm off to fit those now.

Edited by Ruston
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Perhaps the hunslet is something you might think about Chris, another one for the Ixion stable... Then again I'm hoping that someone has a go at Bellerphon and her sisters :whistle:

An Ixion Bellerophon? Now that's a good idea'!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Following the British naval heroes theme, here are Jervis and Pellew.

post-494-0-73090300-1371225490.jpg

Although the Narrow Planet site doesn't list Manning Wardle style plates, Steve can do them as shown here.They're not particularly cheap but when compared to the overall cost of these locos it's not much. Why spoil the ship for a ha'penn'orth of tar? One of my pet hates are models of industrials sporting what are obviously BR diesel names with fonts that look out of place.

post-494-0-30988900-1371225713.jpg

 

And Admiral Duncan, plates fitted and weathered - not too much though. The lining took a lot of work so I don't want to hide it.

post-494-0-34338300-1371225896.jpg

I replaced the dodgy gearset and box with a set of 40:1 from Roxey and, after running in on the rollers, it runs acceptably.

post-494-0-07013100-1371225929.jpg

 

A close up of the works plate.

post-494-0-05165000-1371225972.jpg

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Nice touch there Ruston Dave, tell me do you spray or brush paint your models?  It looks like you have sprayed them as the paint looks light and "real like" and not like a painted toy, oh joy!

Very well done again, you do have a light touch and a VERY keen eye for detail for the whole scene from the locos through to the quiet corner of the yard.   That in my opinion brings the scene to LIFE.

 

I constantly look at your work for hints on how to make the scene look real, it's not just about how many rivets the loco boiler has, but also about the yard cat or the gaffer having a sly read of his newspaper or that pile of junk & litter, all helping to bring the model scene to life.

 

Great stuff indeed.

 

Regards

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Nice touch there Ruston Dave, tell me do you spray or brush paint your models? 

Everything is brushed. The only spray I use is primer out of a rattle can. An air brush is one of those things sometimes think I'd like to have a go with but then, IMHO, whilst airbrushing is superior when in the hands of an expert, there's a lot of rubbish airbrushing about and it seems to be something that takes a lot of learning to be able to master so I'll stick with tried and tested methods. Besides, if I got good at it my existing models would look poorer in comparison and the airbrushed ones would stand out as being better. I think a lot of creating a complete scene is down to doing everything to a similar level and nothing standing out as better or poorer than anything else.

 

On the other hand I could be rubbish with an airbrush and make a right old mess!

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An idea:

5-minute epoxy.....Mix a small amount and form a blob on the end of a wooden skewer (of appropriate dia.) keep rolling/rotating the skewer to defy the effects of gravity, until the resin is half-cured (almost-firm and barely-tacky) and then 'pull' a strand (as if were toffee or semi-molten glass) into a "pig-tail" using fine/pointy tweezers.....the pulled strand would naturally stay wider at the root and thin out as it twists towards the tweezers......hold as steadily as you can until the cure firms....though if it wilts; carefully playing a little heat from a heat gun will make the resin re-soften, permitting adjustment of the "pig-tail".

 

Bit of 'trial and error' with the half-cure aspect and the twist, and there`d be subsequent trimming needed (of course) but it should work....then shape the thicker (root blob) end like the real one`s metal-cup.

 

Tried it, Debs. It don't work. At least I can't get it to work so I've given up on it.

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I often come to visit B,T&S..........I find Ruston`s work to be inspiring; a reminder of what interest, detail and realism can be created within a little footprint.......My 'modelling mojo' has been rather low recently; but having just reviewed all of this thread; I feel it`s time to get stuck-in again........a 'Ministry' tank-wagon, beckons.

...Thank you, Dave. :good:

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thank you, Debs. It's nice to know I've inspired someone, especially if it's to do something industrial or something other than box-opening.

 

Speaking of which, I've done a bit of box-opening myself. I have finally got around to buying an Ixion Hudswell. I'm sure it's been reviewed before but I may as well give my two penn'orth...

 

post-494-0-53487700-1373305728.jpg

 

As you can see, I bought the black version but unpainted would be more apt as everything that's black appears to be just the bare plastic, complete with fingerprints in the glue where one of the guard irons has been fixed to the frames and the shinyness of the glue at both sides of the rear of the bunker, which are in need of some filler in the gaps between sides and rear. The red bits are painted but the paint is a bit flaky in places with bits missing from the driving rods.

 

As you can see in the pic, the saddletank has distinct lines along its length as if it was half-etched brass that had been formed wrong and not the plastic moulding that it is. The handrails are a bit too bendy for my liking and the pipework and injectors ought to be painted and not simply left black.

 

Despite these observations it looks like a Hudswell and I'm not sending it back, as I'm a modeller and not a box opener. I'll fill the gaps, smooth down the lines on the tank and replace the handrails with scratch built brass versions. I'll then paint and weather it before it enters service.

 

I've tested it on the rollers on straight DC and it runs very smoothly in both directions, right down to under 10 on the dial of a Gaugemaster series E controller so the first job will be to fit a suitable decoder just to make sure it runs as well on a track before do anything irreversible.

Edited by Ruston
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