Adrian Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 Hello Adrian, nice looking job there. It seems strange that M.O.K. did not design any form of compensation into the rear bogie. Maybe at 7'-- 7'6" W.B. they though that it was unnecessary. What is that strange upright thing above the rear axle for? The compensation is more than likely to be unnecessary but having gone to the effort of fitting sprung suspension then fitting the beam compensation just seemed appropriate to do. The upright "thing" is actually above the front axle as it's the trailing bogie. There is a slot in the chassis so I presume it's going to limit the rotation of the bogie. The bogie has plenty of movement on the track and there are some lateral control springs to fit as well, I think it's more when you pick the loco up it'll stop the bogie from spinning through 180 degrees. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 What is that strange upright thing above the rear axle for? OzzyO. A real blond moment there. OzzyO Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike47j Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 How did you fold the top of the cab sides, did you bend it before fitting ? I'm building the narrow gauge version, and its the next step on the body, although I still have a lot to do on the chassis. I'm not sure about the instructions, they start off very detailed, but seem to fade out towards the end. Just find the parts and make it look like the photos. Mike Johnson Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 How did you fold the top of the cab sides, did you bend it before fitting ? I'm not sure about the instructions, they start off very detailed, but seem to fade out towards the end. Just find the parts and make it look like the photos. Yes I bent the top of the cab before fitting. IIRC I used a length of 3/16" silver steel bar clamped in the vice. I then just used finger pressure to bend the etch round to shape, using the line of rivets to line up along the bar. I know what you mean about the instructions, the major construction parts are included, but for example as detailed earlier the etchings around the door suddenly appear in the photo's with no mention about them, and yes it seems a lot of the detailing just has to be done with reference to the prototype photo's. Somehow I get the feeling I'm going to get to the end of the build and have dozens of little castings left and wondering whether they should be fitted or not! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ngtrains.com Posted February 23, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 23, 2012 Adrian, Watching this build with interest as I have an MOK Class 4 mogul to build and I plan on springing it in a similar way to your 2-6-4. i am sold on springing over simple compensation having seen sprung loco's running and just gliding along. Were you tempted at all to spring the rear truck? I haven't tried to work out how to do but do wonder if some springing could be built in to the end of the beams - something like counter bore the pad in the beam and the top of the axle box for a coil spring. I am sure the compensation will be fine, it just seems like stopping short having sprung the drivers. Anyway, crack on with it, I'll start mine when you've finished Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Hello Paul, I have sprung the compensation beams on some G.W.R. Castle bogies but not above the axle box's, but at the mid point of the beam using Slater's plunger pick up springs. I also fit a spring onto the bogie pivot so I may be over egging the pudding. If that was good enough for Collett it should be good enough for us. Also Collett didn't use the pivot spring like we do. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 Were you tempted at all to spring the rear truck? I haven't tried to work out how to do but do wonder if some springing could be built in to the end of the beams - something like counter bore the pad in the beam and the top of the axle box for a coil spring. I am sure the compensation will be fine, it just seems like stopping short having sprung the drivers. I did consider springing the axles as well, various schemes, most of them as you mention having a little sprung pad on the end of the beam, with either a straight wire or coil spring like a plunger pickup. I even bought a set of phosphor bronze working leaf springs for wagons from MMP with the thought of replacing the cast item with a working version! In the end I couldn't work out anything I was happy with and simple. However the main bogie pivot suspension unit in the chassis is sprung so the bogie is not completely unsprung, just not on the axles. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike47j Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Somehow I get the feeling I'm going to get to the end of the build and have dozens of little castings left and wondering whether they should be fitted or not! I've spent some time going through the remaining parts, photos and instructions. Matching the castings to the photos has taken some time, but at least they have descriptive names in the instructions. (Well, 3/27 is called "Filter" in the list of castings and "Water feed valve" in the photos.) So, I don't think there are any which can't be fitted (except for a spare mechanical lubricator). Although a better photo of the manifold and train heating valve pipework would be good to have. The etches are another problem, they don't have any clues as to what they are. Etched parts 011, 062, 063, 075, 142, 159, 180, 190, 200, 204, 208, 236, 237, 242, 251, 253, 256, 275, 279, 280, 301, and 302 are the ones I can't place. Some etched parts have been replaced by castings, and some of them have the same number as another etched part, so perhaps most are no longer needed. I guess that 180 might be a speedometer mounting bracket, and 236 a cover behind the chimney on some (all?) locos, but the rest are a mystery. Mike Johnson Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted March 5, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 5, 2012 Adrian, what's the wheelbase of this kit, I've noticed some differences in various manufacturers offerings, I'm really looking at the buffer to trailing wheel centre to see if one will fit in the run-round on Fourgig East. 400 quid seems quite reasonable although the wheels etc will set me back a bit too Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike47j Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Buffers to trailing wheel 295mm ? I spent some time making the buffers but ... The buffers are just under 12mm, but they are not yet attached. The buffer beam is on a short bit of footplate, which is not yet attached to the boiler. The boiler is not yet attached to the rest of the body The body should be held by 1 screw to the chassis, but not yet. So plenty of room for error. It is an expensive kit, but very enjoyable (except for the bunker sides). It's my first loco with outside value gear and that seems to be fitting together OK. I also paid £7.50 to have Dave roll the boiler and smokebox, £7.50 for his crankpins with very slim heads, and £10 for postage. A speedometer casting is available but not included. As well as wheels, it also needs the ABC motor and gearbox which I'm still waiting for, pickups, dcc decoder, number plate .... Mike Johnson Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 .....400 quid seems quite reasonable although the wheels etc will set me back a bit too I just wish we had a Standard kit of this quality in 4mm scale. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted March 12, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 12, 2012 Buffers to trailing wheel 295mm Thanks Mike, looks like if I had a cut down buffer stop at the end of the headshunt I should be able to fit one in... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike47j Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Some photos of details of 80151 on Bluebell, tank tops, plate behind chimney, manifold, whistle, train heating valve, evacuator (whatever that is) ? Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 ^ Very useful close-ups! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike47j Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Some small details from 80064 in the shed on the Bluebell. Not sure about the lamp brackets in the kit, there are castings but not enough, there are also some etched parts. I just noticed that the lower 2 on the smoke box can use the etched ones. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 Has this thread started again, at all? I'm getting withdrawal symptoms...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 Has this thread started again, at all? I'm getting withdrawal symptoms...... You're not the only one!! It's getting very close to the top of the "to do" pile, it's not been forgotten just not the highest priority at the moment. I've been putting it to one side whilst I decide what to do about the valve gear. I much prefer steel for valve gear but the kit has nickel castings so I was contemplating making some new valve gear. However a meeting over the summer with a fellow S7 modeller I was offered the sage advice to build it as it is supplied to get a rolling chassis. Then later on if I decide to replace the valve gear I can. Somehow I suspect that I'd never get round to replacing the valve gear as I'll have moved on to the next project. So I've taken the advice and will now plough on with the valve gear with the supplied castings. Many thanks to the other poster for the detail photo's they are appreciated and have been closely studied. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 There's probably not much wrong with nickel-cast valve gear.......although I did once use stirrups made from nickel which broke just as the horse took off over a jump.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted September 20, 2012 Author Share Posted September 20, 2012 There's probably not much wrong with nickel-cast valve gear Apart from it being the wrong colour. It's just a pet peeve of mine, people go to extraordinary lengths to get a loco painted in the correct colour but then find nickel valve gear acceptable. Valvegear is steel and should look like steel, so I'll be experimenting with tinning all the castings to improve the colour. Sorry I'll get off my soapbox now! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 Have you tried blackening n/s, then burnishing it? just a thought. I wonder WHY no-one does etched steel valvegear? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 I wonder WHY no-one does etched steel valvegear? My guess would be because nickel silver doesn't rust. We all know how hard it is to keep the steel tires on Slaters wheels rust free. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted September 20, 2012 Author Share Posted September 20, 2012 Have you tried blackening n/s, then burnishing it? just a thought. I wonder WHY no-one does etched steel valvegear? Slaters do etched steel couplings rods, but that's about the limit of suppliers. My guess would be because nickel silver doesn't rust. We all know how hard it is to keep the steel tires on Slaters wheels rust free. I've never had any problem keep steel rust free. I've a Dean Goods loco built 26 years ago - the steel coupling rods are still rust free. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 Might it also be because n/s is so easy to solder? And steel isn't? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted September 20, 2012 Author Share Posted September 20, 2012 Might it also be because n/s is so easy to solder? And steel isn't? once again - never had any problem soldering steel. The coupling rods on my Jinty are soldered steel etchings. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 I've never had any problem keep steel rust free. I've a Dean Goods loco built 26 years ago - the steel coupling rods are still rust free. once again - never had any problem soldering steel. The coupling rods on my Jinty are soldered steel etchings. Looks like you've got us stumped there Adrian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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