Earlswood Nob Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 This is my first posting of my attempts at kit building/bashing. I purchased a Kay??™s LNER C1 Atlantic kit a while ago on a certain auction site and have decided to build it as 3279 as rebuilt with K2 cylinders and a high running plate. The first problem was the Kay??™s slab brass atom bomb proof chassis. I decided to build my own from half inch brass strip. Careful measurement of the Isinglass drawing gave a chassis 135mm long with a cut out approx 35mm x 4mm from the front top and 39mm x 8 mm from the rear top of the chassis. There are also bogie wheel cut outs from the front lower of the chassis. Driving axles were 56mm and 84mm from front and 9mm from top of chassis. There were also two small lightening holes between the driving axles, but these would be behind a wheel. The chassis side members are illustrated below and show my amateurish engineering skills The chassis was assembled using Comet jigs and frame spacers A set of Romford wheels was included with the kit and this led to the second problem; the wheels touched at the rim tips. A set of Markits RP25 wheels borrowed from another project solved this. Next came a Comet 6??™3 bogie with Gibson wheels. I did try a Comet pony truck for the trailing wheels, but it was too long and would have required removing some metal from the lower rear chassis which is already slim. The next idea is an axle in a tube which will simulate the Cartazzi axle boxes. Now a pause while waiting for a suitable motor and gearbox to arrive. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 I have a built C1 with a derailing trailing wheel. Can you please post a picture on how you have fixed it to the chassis. Looks good so far Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earlswood Nob Posted October 29, 2009 Author Share Posted October 29, 2009 Trying to solder the round tubing to the underside of the frames was a failure, as was the soldering the tube between two small lengths of brass soldered to the bottom of the frames The next attempt was the soldering of a tube to a frame spacer and soldering the spacer between the frames. It was decided to use 3mm tubing with 3mm to 2mm reducing bushes on the axle which will give a reasonable bearing surface for the axle to run it. An old spacer was found and an 8BA nut and bolt was used to clamp the tube to the spacer for soldering. As 3mm tubing was used, it was possible to use jig axles to line up the axle tube. Two pieces of nickle-silver strip (from a valve gear fret) had 1mm holes drilled 32.5mm apart and these placed over the points of the jig axles. Next will be the gearbox & motor Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
number6 Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 I have a built C1 with a derailing trailing wheel. Can you please post a picture on how you have fixed it to the chassis. Mick - I have had to cure the same with a Brighton version. Eventually I settled on a system that allowed the axle to float about in two elongated axle holes and then applied downward pressure on the axle using sprung thick brass wire. It seems to do the trick and is tweaked to sit on the centre of the axle. I tried all sorts of things including the axle in a tube and soldered to the frames on a springy arm, and a conventional pony type arrangement but that waggled around too much. This axle helps turn the loco into a curve when running in reverse and seems to stablise it when running forward because of the long overhangs front and rear. Like the handbuilt chassis - best of luck Earlswood! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earlswood Nob Posted November 5, 2009 Author Share Posted November 5, 2009 The Highlevel Hiflier 40:1 gearbox was easy to assemble with Mashima 1420 mounted vertically, and running with unconnected driving wheels was smooth at a scale 5mph. The Kay??™s connecting rods were backed up by a piece of nickel silver from the fret of Comet frame spacers. The pic shows Comet LMS cylinders, slidebars, and crossheads together with a Gibson A2 valve gear fret which will also replace the Kay??™s C1 coupling rods with their marine type big-end. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 The Highlevel Hiflier 40:1 gearbox was easy to assemble with Mashima 1420 mounted vertically, and running with unconnected driving wheels was smooth at a scale 5mph. The Kay??™s connecting rods were backed up by a piece of nickel silver from the fret of Comet frame spacers. The pic shows Comet LMS cylinders, slidebars, and crossheads together with a Gibson A2 valve gear fret which will also replace the Kay??™s C1 coupling rods with their marine type big-end. Looking great Earlswood, perhaps some Comet Jigs need to be on my shopping list Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earlswood Nob Posted November 6, 2009 Author Share Posted November 6, 2009 The Gibson valve gear fret items are to the left. On the right are two expansion links and valve gear bracket I found in a box of oddments from long discarded projects, these will be used in the final valve gear for the loco. The Gibson rods see very flimsy compared to the Comet rods that I have used before. I??™m wondering if a jamming piston rod will wreck the gear, and I??™m thinking of using a piece of tubing as piston rod guides. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earlswood Nob Posted December 31, 2009 Author Share Posted December 31, 2009 This project has been suspended due to problems with valve gear. When I pluck up the courage to make custom links I will resume. New Year project include LNER R1 0-8-2T from Nu-cast Q1 with plasticard side tanks, bunker, cab etc. Prelimary work is going well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 I hope you get round to bringing this back soon - I've been watching it. Ask Mick Nicholson for any information about the R1: he's building one in nickel-silver at the moment. I think you'll find pictures on the old forum. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earlswood Nob Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 Putting aside problems with valve gear. The Mashima 1620 was attached to a High Level Highflier 40:1 gearbox, the coupling roads are the original Kay??™s rods backed by a strip of scrap nickle silver from the frame holding etched components. In this state the chassis will run smoothly down to less than scale 5mph. The Comet cylinder framework has a short piece of brass tubing soldered between the frame to act a piston rod guides. The lost wax piston rods and original Kay??™s connecting roads The top one I tried to fix the connecting road to the crosshead by soldering, but gave up and used the largest size Romford rivet, which is easier to remove if a mistake has been made. The connecting rod and crosshead looks OK in this pic So who spotted the deliberate mistake? I forgot about the droplink. From the other side another error is shown. The piston rods & slidebars are too short. Oh well, I suppose you learn from your mistakes Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 Hi Is the Con Rod too short ? it looks like the piston is going back a long way in last photo?? hence the problem ?? I still havent looked at my C1, how is your Cartazzi axle fixed into the chassis ? I cant really see how you have fixed yours in the photo cheers Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earlswood Nob Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 Hello MICK I find pony trucks with a short length of pivot are easily derailed. I have since built an N2 with a fixed trailing axle and it seems to work better. For this Atlantic I cut a length of 1/8in bore tubing, put three 1/8 to 2mm reducing bushes in the tube. The tube was soldered to a frame spacer and the spacer soldered inside the frame members. So the trailing axle is fixed, but with a little more sideplay than the driving axles. It seems to work for me, but I haven't yet tried it with a tender attached. Good luck and thanks for the interest. Earlswood Nob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 Hi Might try that as the wheelbase will be no longer than a Pacific so it should still go around bends. Mine lacks any form of spring control and I think just lifts as soon as it goes into a curve especially in reverse. good luck Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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