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Progress on Yeovil


Laurie2mil
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Yeovil is Southern steam but it does show how well suited 2mm is to replicating realistic curves.  A layout to show off HSTs would make a good model. Lets hope Lqwrie has inspired you.

 

Don

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3 hours ago, Donw said:

Yeovil is Southern steam but it does show how well suited 2mm is to replicating realistic curves.  A layout to show off HSTs would make a good model. Lets hope Lqwrie has inspired you.

 

Don

 

Aside from Copenhagen Fields, when you look at what Jerry is achieving with his Bath Queen Square, and Laurie is doing with Yeovil .. for 2FS its all VERY inspirational.

 

1 hour ago, queensquare said:

I have a 2FS HST which will unapologetically get a run into Bath now and again. We are occasional visitors to Laurie and Yeovil…..!😊😊

 

Jerry

 

Let me know Jerry, I'll pop over and we can do a passing shot! 😂

 

Rich

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On 07/04/2023 at 19:36, queensquare said:

I have a 2FS HST which will unapologetically get a run into Bath now and again. We are occasional visitors to Laurie and Yeovil…..!😊😊

 

Jerry

fantastic can i run a 12 car CEP even if the 3rd rail is missing ?

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7 hours ago, Sithlord75 said:

You'll just have to wait for the Bullied Pacific and 11 on.  Did the ACE go anywhere near here?  Can't remember.

 

The ACE would have gone down the main line through Yeovil Junction about 2miles from the town. I dont think it would have stopped their but I may be wrong.  

 

Don

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24 minutes ago, Donw said:

 

The ACE would have gone down the main line through Yeovil Junction about 2miles from the town. I dont think it would have stopped their but I may be wrong.  

 

Don

 

Non-stop on the through lines (as it was from Salisbury to Exeter). NB, taking an HST round those curves at 90 would be around double the speed limit, good though it might look (not that they were strangers to the area on diversion).

 

Adam

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Thank you all again for your interest and suggestions.  To pick up on a couple of specific comments. 

 

Yes, all of the points (and signals when I get round to them) are/will be activated by analogue servos controlled by Megapoints servo-controller boards, which even I with my non-electronic brain find easy and flexible to install, straight-forward to programme, and slick in operation.  I think the cost of this arrangement compares very favourably with, eg, Cobalt or Tortoise motors, which are currently advertised at £15-18 each cf. c. £12 per servo/MP operated point (the 12-channel Megapoints control board operates 12 points for £66 + servos and microswitches @ <£3 each).  I don't have any experience of Megapoints other than the Servo Control Boards, but I'm certainly a fan of those.

I believe there was an occasion when the up ACE passed through Yeovil Town (? major works closing Honiton Tunnel, or ? flooding at Cowley Bridge): routed from Exeter to Taunton along the GW line, thence the Branch through Langport-Martock-Hendford to Yeovil Town, then Town -> Junction, reversing there to continue on its more familiar Southern metals.  So certainly a precedent for a Bulleid with lots on leaning into the reverse curves on the Town-Junction line (in addition to Rule 1 which positively demands it).  Another reason would be one of the summer Sunday excursions starting from Yeovil to the coast - and the Southern berthed stock overnight at Yeovil Town for excursions from Sherborne as well.  Though 11 on may be excessive for the annual Sunday School outing.  Line speed was 40mph max. but the curves were sharp so the leaning into them was quite visible (and I've attempted to be prototypical re this on the model).

 

As for HSThingummies, 12-car CEPs and other electric acronyms.  The ultimate objective (dream) would be to assemble a stud of locos and stock sufficient to operate a representative sequence of movements and services at different periods, but this would be so great and varied that stock and particularly locos will always be the limiting factor for the project in my lifetime.  So any that can be begged, borrowed, loaned, afforded, traded - in fact, anything that moves - will always be most welcome.  No need to wait until I make the coffee.

 

Laurie

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I hope that Laurie doesn't mind my cluttering up his thread with my build progress but here goes anyway ...

 

Some time ago, I suggested to Laurie that since Modbury is essentially finished that I wouldn't mind making one or two bits and bobs for his Yeovil project - I enjoy all elements of railway modelling and since I didn't need to actually build anything other than rolling stock for my own project that one or two side projects would be quite nice for my own interest as much as anything else!

 

We tentatively agreed that I would try to build the Pen Mill signal box, and Laurie furnished me with what few photos he possessed of the Pen Mill engine shed area that included "Yeovil Pen Mill South" signal box, along with his track plan as this illustrated the small amount of real estate available for the box to fit in.  Essentially, the signal box sits within the diverging roads of the GWR line from Pen Mill station towards Weymouth and the link line from Pen Mill to Yeovil Town.  From the various plans Laurie had we estimated that the box was only about 16'0" x 12'0" in footprint.

 

With these dimensions in mind, and a reasonable (although not close up) photo of the step end of the signal box, a CAD drawing was produced using the imported photo as a scale to ensure that the height and width of the box were in proportion, and the front, rear and other end drawn up based on other GWR signal boxes.  Unfortunately, Yeovil Pen Mill box seems to have been one of the relatively rare Type 2 boxes, so the resulting drawing is not an accurate rendition of the actual signal box at Pen Mill but is my best guess from the information I have available.

 

PenMillSignalBox.jpg.bb69cb2580a7a9084de24d186b2eb8f0.jpg

Basic CAD drawing of Yeovil Pen Mill Signal Box (as originally drawn).  Following a discussion with Laurie, we believe from the only (very distant) photo we have of the rear and non-step end that there was a small timber extension (possibly toilet) cantilevered out above and to the left of the locking room door as I have drawn it.

 

Although I have printed a couple of copies of the above drawing onto card with a view of making a mock up, in the end I dispensed with that idea and went straight into cutting plasticard!  The following sequence of photos shows the lead up to the current state of play - the brickies have completed their work and are now waiting for the carpenters and joiners to come onsite.

 

2.jpg.cbf682743a9d6a1ffd59db24e5494ef8.jpg

The basic carcass of the locking room was built up in 0.040" plasticard with the door and window openings slightly bigger than the actual furniture will require.  An outer skin of Slater's brick plasticard (0.020") was welded in place (with the door and window openings correctly sized (this forms a small rebate behind the brickwork into which the actual door and windows will eventually sit).

 

As may be seen in the above photo, I favour butt (rather than mitred) joins at the corners of my buildings, so once the solvent had fully dried, the excess lengths of walls were cut and sanded back to be flush with their 90 degree counterparts.  The brick courses (well mortar lines) were made good around the corners with a fine 3 square (triangular) escapement file.

 

The following 3 photos show the current state of play (before the carpenters and joiners turn up) :

4.jpg.f0537a534e0baf79f2d361e3216b80e1.jpg

Once the back wall had been added, suitably sized pieces of plain 0.020" plasticard were welded in place before the internal skin of brick plasticard was welded in place.

 

5.jpg.0f4f2d0c2688d650d1ba7c2e0af96936.jpg

A small step was added for the locking room door, and strips of 0.020" added in the window reveals for the sills.  The arch brickwork around the tops of the window reveal was simply formed by skrawking parallel lines 0.5mm apart on a piece of 0.020", a strip 1.5mm was cut off perpendicular to the scribed lines, then a razor blade used to cut into each groove about 2/3rds (i.e. leaving about 0.5mm of groove attaching each brick to the adjoining one).  This action causes a gentle bend along the strip just right for an arch.

 

6.jpg.efff1e9c55c2738281fb1ed62f86a736.jpg

The chimney stack was made up as a separate component, the basis being a 2mm square section of plastic around which brick plasticard was layered - ideally I would have used 3mm square plastic but didn't have any in my stock (until I had finished the chimney when miraculously I found a 6" length in a bag of odd strips of plasticard!!)  Once complete, the stack was fixed in place centrally on the back wall.

 

Before I can make a start on the upper wood work, I will paint all of the brickwork.  The plan is to paint the whole in a mortar colour, and when dry I will dry-brush various brick shades diagonally to hopefully pick out the individual bricks.

 

Thanks for looking

Ian

 

 

 

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Is it the box shown in the photo a third of the way down this webpage that you are doing Ian?

 

https://www.yeovilhistory.info/penmillstation.htm

 

https://maps.nls.uk/geo/explore/side-by-side/#zoom=20.2&lat=50.94316&lon=-2.61530&layers=117746211&right=ESRIWorld

 

Simon

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1 hour ago, 65179 said:

Is it the box shown in the photo a third of the way down this webpage that you are doing Ian?

 

https://www.yeovilhistory.info/penmillstation.htm

 

https://maps.nls.uk/geo/explore/side-by-side/#zoom=20.2&lat=50.94316&lon=-2.61530&layers=117746211&right=ESRIWorld

 

Simon

Simon,

Yes, the box is at the end of the engine shed complex, in the junction of diverging lines.

Ian

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1 minute ago, Ian Smith said:

Simon,

Yes, the box is at the end of the engine shed complex, in the junction of diverging lines.

Ian

 

That NLS link is the first time I've had a 'hit' with one of the 1:500/1:528 maps!

 

Simon

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3 hours ago, Ian Smith said:

I hope that Laurie doesn't mind my cluttering up his thread with my build progress but here goes anyway ...

 

Some time ago, I suggested to Laurie that since Modbury is essentially finished that I wouldn't mind making one or two bits and bobs for his Yeovil project - I enjoy all elements of railway modelling and since I didn't need to actually build anything other than rolling stock for my own project that one or two side projects would be quite nice for my own interest as much as anything else!

 

We tentatively agreed that I would try to build the Pen Mill signal box, and Laurie furnished me with what few photos he possessed of the Pen Mill engine shed area that included "Yeovil Pen Mill South" signal box, along with his track plan as this illustrated the small amount of real estate available for the box to fit in.  Essentially, the signal box sits within the diverging roads of the GWR line from Pen Mill station towards Weymouth and the link line from Pen Mill to Yeovil Town.  From the various plans Laurie had we estimated that the box was only about 16'0" x 12'0" in footprint.

 

With these dimensions in mind, and a reasonable (although not close up) photo of the step end of the signal box, a CAD drawing was produced using the imported photo as a scale to ensure that the height and width of the box were in proportion, and the front, rear and other end drawn up based on other GWR signal boxes.  Unfortunately, Yeovil Pen Mill box seems to have been one of the relatively rare Type 2 boxes, so the resulting drawing is not an accurate rendition of the actual signal box at Pen Mill but is my best guess from the information I have available.

 

PenMillSignalBox.jpg.bb69cb2580a7a9084de24d186b2eb8f0.jpg

Basic CAD drawing of Yeovil Pen Mill Signal Box (as originally drawn).  Following a discussion with Laurie, we believe from the only (very distant) photo we have of the rear and non-step end that there was a small timber extension (possibly toilet) cantilevered out above and to the left of the locking room door as I have drawn it.

 

Although I have printed a couple of copies of the above drawing onto card with a view of making a mock up, in the end I dispensed with that idea and went straight into cutting plasticard!  The following sequence of photos shows the lead up to the current state of play - the brickies have completed their work and are now waiting for the carpenters and joiners to come onsite.

 

2.jpg.cbf682743a9d6a1ffd59db24e5494ef8.jpg

The basic carcass of the locking room was built up in 0.040" plasticard with the door and window openings slightly bigger than the actual furniture will require.  An outer skin of Slater's brick plasticard (0.020") was welded in place (with the door and window openings correctly sized (this forms a small rebate behind the brickwork into which the actual door and windows will eventually sit).

 

As may be seen in the above photo, I favour butt (rather than mitred) joins at the corners of my buildings, so once the solvent had fully dried, the excess lengths of walls were cut and sanded back to be flush with their 90 degree counterparts.  The brick courses (well mortar lines) were made good around the corners with a fine 3 square (triangular) escapement file.

 

The following 3 photos show the current state of play (before the carpenters and joiners turn up) :

4.jpg.f0537a534e0baf79f2d361e3216b80e1.jpg

Once the back wall had been added, suitably sized pieces of plain 0.020" plasticard were welded in place before the internal skin of brick plasticard was welded in place.

 

5.jpg.0f4f2d0c2688d650d1ba7c2e0af96936.jpg

A small step was added for the locking room door, and strips of 0.020" added in the window reveals for the sills.  The arch brickwork around the tops of the window reveal was simply formed by skrawking parallel lines 0.5mm apart on a piece of 0.020", a strip 1.5mm was cut off perpendicular to the scribed lines, then a razor blade used to cut into each groove about 2/3rds (i.e. leaving about 0.5mm of groove attaching each brick to the adjoining one).  This action causes a gentle bend along the strip just right for an arch.

 

Before I can make a start on the upper wood work, I will paint all of the brickwork.  The plan is to paint the whole in a mortar colour, and when dry I will dry-brush various brick shades diagonally to hopefully pick out the individual bricks.

 

An alternative, which is quicker and can produce excellent results, is, having allowed the mortar colour paint to dry very thoroughly, to lightly sand and/or scrape the brickwork. This leaves most of the mortar colour where it should be and the bricks a variegated dusty red colour. It only works because the underlying plastic is approximately the right colour (although I have found ways round that in the past) and I have tended to use a mortar colour that is closer to light grey than to sand but a lot depends on what the prototype looked like. You can also add dabs of green mortar colour in areas that might have been affected by damp.

 

If the idea tempts you try it out on a small spare piece of brick plasticard first.

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Fabulous Laurie!

I knew you were building Yeovil Town, but had no idea that it had expanded to include the whole triangle!

I'm truly impressed by the scale and spectacle of the project.

Best wishes,

Dave.T

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 A little progress on the Pen Mill signal box.  Initially, I was going to paint the brickwork before making a start on the upper works, but in the end I decided that I would be handling the model quite a bit so have delayed the brickwork painting until the stage I have now reached.

 

Since the first instalment, I have again been studying the post card view which is the only view that we have of the rear and non-step end of the box.  The signal box (and the Pen Mill engine shed complex) can be seen in the middle distance, and my interpretation of this view is that the signal box has a window in the upper storey to the right of the chimney stack, which makes some sense as the line to Yeovil Town station runs behind the box.  With that in mind, I have removed a window sized area from the back wall in this corner.

penmill-c1910.jpg.30aaaafd32d5a20d6d3b273fa421ca73.jpg

The post card view that shows the rear of the signal box.  The whitewashed cattle pens are towards the left of the view, slightly further to the right is what looks like another wooden signal box but is in fact a Linesman's hut (according to one of the large scale maps Laurie has).  The subject of this build is the signal box immediately to the right (and nearer to the camera) of the Linesman's hut.

 

The following photos show the state of play of the model :

7.jpg.0d825cd48e172af868bd69566e962f86.jpg

The upper works have been cut from 0.020" plasticard (the parallel plank grooves having been scrawked on first).  Once fitted in place, various strips of suitably thick plasticard were used to build up the framing on the basic elevations.

 

8.jpg.6124d6027595575471d79e406554bec1.jpg

The corner posts had pieces of Evergreen 0.030"x0.030" welded in place to build up the profile of the corner posts (as the butted sides and ends left an L shaped corner post).  Once fully dry, a fine file was applied to ensure the posts were square and the correct size.  The window sills were 0.015" plasticard strips cut to fit between the framing, and sit atop of the scribed panels.

 

9.jpg.8e075e3ce15de44e699971e0f155973a.jpg

The odd shaped piece of plastic in all these photos is effectively a "ring beam" that will give strength to the corner posts and form the framing above the window and door openings.  This was cut from a piece of 0.060" plastic sheet so that it fits between the walls and corner posts.  The hole in the middle is to allow me to get into the upper floor area to furnish it after painting.  The hole will also serve as a method to allow the roof sub-assembly to be retained - the plan is to have a removable roof.

 

10.jpg.8b681c11bc4c7c47441dbe28e0cb0618.jpg

The "ring beam" temporarily slotted into position.

 

11.jpg.b4e43dbdec629ca1894b046fa9f2de4c.jpg

Another view with the "ring beam" temporarily popped in place.  This view also shows the new window reveal in the back wall of the signal box.

 

The next job will be to paint the brickwork.  Then the steps, doors and windows can be made and fitted.

 

Thanks for looking

Ian

 

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This signal box is coming on beautifully, Ian: a big thank for your work on it and the contribution it will make to the Pen Mill end of the Yeovil project.  We have both poured over the few photos of it we can find, and the blurred postcard you show above is the only one which shows its rear, with what we take to be an upper story extension ?WC.  The box closed in February 1937; here is an enlargement from the best picture I have of the front, complete with wobbly chimney (I'm happy for you to keep yours straight, Ian!): 

 

CCI_000015-Copy.jpg.27161920d27beb696c7e1a9ab9833e11.jpg

 

Still at the Pen Mill end, we were pleased to welcome our chairman to the NMAG meeting last Sunday, where he educated us all about bridges and viaducts, occupation bridges and culverts, and drainage and the the folly of underestimating its importance.  He brought with him another gift for Yeovil, the A30 road overbridge which will be the scenic break at the Pen Mill end.   This is an elegant elliptical stone arch which is better recorded photographically than the signal box.  Alisdair has modelled it complete with the wooden staircase which gave access to the shed and signal box from the road above:

 

IMG_3295.jpg.a75627d2bc79697c059a0b11a29153cf.jpg

 

IMG_3297.jpg.67447a04fc41b2ccf05b2585362173de.jpg

 

The bridge obviously needs properly bedded in (the 2mm ply needs to be properly shaped and stuck down flat onto the baseboard), and will need to be lift-offable in case the switch underneath it needs attention.  A big thank you also, therefore, to Alisdair. 

I - and Yeovil - are very fortunate to benefit from the skills of both Ian and Alisdair, and to others who have contributed to the project in an increasing number of areas.  Thank you!

 

Laurie

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PS.    To DLT: thank you for your interest and encouraging comments.  Modelling the triangle was not on the original agenda, but became possible when the railway room became available (another way in which I am a lucky boy).  It looks a large expanse in modelling terms, but is still contracted to less than 1/3 of the real thing, which means it will have to be visually presented as 3 dioramas (one in each corner) separated by the coppices and trees which lined the river, instead of the singular continuous expanse of river plain that it appears to be in reality - but I think that will still work artistically.

Laurie

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Just a little bit of progress on the Pen Mill signal box (I've been baby and dog sitting so have been away from the work bench for a couple of days).  However, before embarking on those duties I did manage to get a bit of paint on the box.  The whole of the brickwork was painted in a mortar colour (actually Precision Paints GWR Light Stone let down with a dash or two of white), then the bricks themselves were applied by dry brushing a couple of red brick shades mixed up from Humbrol 73, 100 & 113.

 

The views below show the results :

 

12.JPG.db198f3c9aed262d02ffb2c6e2a2de2c.JPG

 

13.JPG.d9f1f922a44cb98de644e9e3c73c8fc7.JPG

 

14.JPG.0aab40f6ab1ebd84f803d555fea54b82.JPG 

 

Before I start to paint the box's exterior woodwork, I want to paint the inside.  But before I do that I have decided to make up the levers.  These are simply a representation as although there are lots of windows experience shows that they won't be that easy to see so the fidelity of some nice etched levers seems an extravagance.

 

15.JPG.80013c5140af821ceecade2d4fcae847.JPG

The base for the levers is simply a strip of 0.020" plasticard which has a series of parallel scrawked grooves across it at 0.8mm centres.  Because I had made one of the grooves a little deep the base separated so has been backed with a piece of 0.005".  The edges of the strip have been scraped with a razor blade to give a bit of a domed profile to the strip. The levers themselves are even simpler, being cut from a 0.010"x0.020" strip of plastic.  I have made them 6mm long, a cut being made in one end and one side of the split cut short and splayed out to represent the catch handle.

 

The next job will be to assemble this little lot and paint the levers.  However, before I can do that I needed to establish what colours each of the levers needed to be.  Luckily, Laurie's research had provided me with the signalling diagram for Yeovil Pen Mill's South Box (this one).  He also has the same for the North Box, but that is out of scope for his model.

 

PenMillSignalDiagram.jpg.46991d7b2edb378e62bd94dfb8f30338.jpg

Yeovil Pen Mill South Box signalling diagram.  Now I'm no signalling guru, so have absolutely no idea what "FPL's 11 & 13 stand normally 'Out'" means but I assume that the levers lean forward (i.e. towards the signalman) when Normal.  Similarly, "Points 19 fitted with Langley & Prince's 'Economic' lock and stand bolted" indicates to me that there was no separate Facing Point Lock Lever for Points 19.  Also, "Discs 5 & 23 mechanically selected" means nothing to me, but I assume that the states of those ground signals is determined mechanically depending on points 10 and 12.  Finally, "Spagnoletti Block on Main Lines" is also a mystery to me and may have something to do the with the dotted lines A-B, C-D and T.C.

 

Signalling engineers should probably stop reading this entry NOW!!

 

However, armed with what little I do know about signalling I decided I would try to determine the lever colours from the above diagram, so produced a little spreadsheet :

PenMillLevers.jpg.0e3c29e672b7c37360f5d76595aaa581.jpg

I have written a little formula in the "Colour" column that "calculates" the colour based on the text in "Type".  The "Action" column is simply my description based on reading the signalling diagram above.  I have called the platform roads by the A-B or C-D shown on the signalling diagram merely so that I can provide a sensible (to me) link between my description and the diagram.  I have no idea what 26 is on the signalling diagram as it seems to relate to the two little 'O's and +'s adjacent.  As the levers at the left and right hand ends of the frame generally relate to signals I will paint lever 26 red.

 

That's it for this instalment, if anyone can enlighten me further with regards to the signalling diagram it will be much appreciated, even though for my purposes I probably don't need to know.

 

Thanks for looking

Ian

 

 

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Hi Ian,

 

I would guess that TC = track circuit, possibly operated by a treadle which would be depressed by the flanges.  Likewise the dotted line A-B and C-D could also indicated detection treadles, though I may be wrong.  The little pairs of O+s indicate detonator placers.  That on the line to Clifton Maybank Jn. has 'worked by small lever' beside it, possibly indicating that there was a short lever in the frame for it.  26 is for the placer on the line from CMJ and both would be painted in black and white chevrons, pointing up the way for whichever is the up line and down for the down line.  FPL levers were normally towards he front of the frame, i.e. 'pulled', so that the points were always locked in the 'normal' position.  They had to be returned in the frame to release the lock, the points changed and then the lock pulled to lock them in their new position.  The road over the turnout, in either direction, could only be cleared when the turnout was locked.

 

HTH

 

Jim

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Spagnoletti was an electrical engineer. He designed the block instruments for the GWR. The GWR liked to insist that their instruments were used. At Dolgelley in pregroup days the west box was Cambrian and the East box was GWR. The GWR insisted Spagnoletti instruments were used between the two and charged the Cambrian for the priveledge.

According to Stationmaster Mike there is one at Didcot. He also has one somewhere as was going to supply a photo if he ever found it. For your purposes it is a block instrument and just a box is probably sufficient but I would put it past you to add the needle and tapper. Good work on the signal box. 

Jim has given details on the levers. Electric train staff is mentioned so there may a been a Webb-Thompson machine  imagine a parking meter sort of shape with a slot in the post holding train staffs see here https://www.warwickshirerailways.com/misc/misc_equip250.htm#:~:text=The Webb and Thompson Train Staff instrument was,heavier%2C weighing approximately three and a half pounds.

 

Don

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Steady progress on the Signal Box ...

 

Firstly, the bank of levers have been assembled and painted :

16.JPG.7bda439fe0b9b61db9cc131faf066b6a.JPG

The left hand one is for the detonators, so really needs white chevrons on it - rather than trying to paint these on I may firstly try just scratching off the black paint to reveal the white plastic below!

 

Secondly, the steps have been constructed and attached - well actually, they were built up in situ :

17.JPG.82585ccb0bdd515978c830660c35646c.JPG

First, the two side rails (stringers) were cut to shape (from 0.020") and attached, ensuring that they were vertical and parallel.  Once these had fully dried, the treads were added from strips of 0.015" - to ensure that they were at a consistent spacing, short lengths of 0.040" square strip were used as spacers (as can be seen in the photo).  Once the step was pretty dry, the next one up was cut and fitted.  Needless to say this took a few hours overall as I wanted to make sure that the step below was secure before the next one up was added.

 

18.JPG.051514f762cd821c25cb4f7187fae733.JPG

Once all of the treads were in place and fully dry, the railings were added, firstly, the top and bottom newel posts were fixed in place (the bottom ones having had their tops cut diagonally at the same angle as the staircase), these and the handrail being formed from Evergreen 0.030" square strip.  Once the posts were fully dry, the handrails were added, then the central posts were cut and fitted (again with their tops cut at the angle of the staircase).  Finally, strips of 0.010" were fitted half way up the newel posts.

 

The final bit of progress is the start that I've made on the roof.  Firstly, a rectangle of 0.030" was cut to represent the soffits around the roof and also to provide a flat base plate to build the rest of the structure upon.  Once happy that all of the edges were perpendicular, some little noggins of 0.040" square plastic were fitted to the underside which engage within the "ring beam" of woodwork forming the top framing of the windows.  The guttering was then added using my normal method of gouging a 0.8mm round groove in the edge of some 0.030" plastic sheet.  This is done with the non-fluted end of a 0.8mm drill in a pin chuck.  Once the groove has been made, the sheet is turned over and a razor blade scraped along the edge of the sheet (where the groove is on the other side!) to form the underside of the guttering.  Once happy, the guttering is cut from the sheet with a bit of land to allow fixing in place on the base plate.

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The roof "base plate" showing the pieces of 0.040" which engage snuggly within the "ring beam" of the main structure.  Also evident is the underside of the guttering.

 

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The top side of the roof "base plate" showing the guttering in place.

 

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The roof base fitted in place on the main structure.

 

The next task was to form the hip roof.  This was cut from 0.030", and was surprisingly simple to execute (although I did mock it up in thin card first to make sure that my calculations of angles gave me the shape and size I wanted.

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Although I ended up with a hip roof of the correct height, when it was tested against the guttering on the base I discovered that it was very slightly too short (the guttering stuck out a bit too much on one end).  Rather than re-making the guttering, I elected instead to lengthen the roof!  This was accomplished by simply welding on a sheet of 0.015" onto the triangle at one end of the roof, and once dry cutting and sanding it flush.

 

The next task will be to unite the hip roof to the roof base and guttering.  Then I will cut some slate strips from sticky label and get those fitted.  Then it will be painting the woodwork before finally making and fitting the doors and windows.

 

Thanks for looking

Ian 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've only just discovered this thread and I have to say everything I see here is fantastic! And very inspirational, as I have a similar project in the planning stages; similar, in that it's focussing on Pen Mill, though at a later point in time (I'm focussing on 1965-to-1968-ish), and I'll be doing it in 1:120. I've a lot to learn though, as this is my first venture into British modelling.

 

I'm very keen on seeing your project as it develops further!

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