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  • RMweb Gold

So, a New Year, and time to plan how to build this layout in the next 90-odd days.

 

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I've decided to break away from my normal simple wiring method by running a bus and droppers to each rail. Even though I'm still using DC, the added reliability for an exhibition layout is reassuring.  Plus, the points will be tweaked to electrically join the stock rails to the blades,  leaving the frogs switched by a relay.

Ballast will be a fine earth powder, rather than stones, just for variety, with the quayside section inset in a brick or stone finish.

So much more to think about...

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  • RMweb Gold

The relay board for the point frogs has been installed & wired up.
The two loose wires ( orange & white) will be connected to the main bus wires ( green & brown), once the correct polarity of the relay switches is known.

 

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  • RMweb Gold

5 of the required 7 point servos have now been installed.

 

I've used modesty panel blocks, mounted above the baseboard, to give a solid connection between the horn and the tiebar.  This results in a controlled, slow movement. The 4mm mdf piece is to give an extra little bit of clearance for the cut-down horn. I'm also using the closest hole, to maximise the possible adjustment for what is a very small degree of movement to throw the point.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

And with all the switches added.

 

Red toggle are points, blue toggle are Isolation and yellow push button are uncouplers.

 

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Wiring tomorrow. 

Edited by Stubby47
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  • RMweb Gold

Wiring is now complete.

 

2 set of 8 wires, which connect to each side of the Modulus Input board, and 2 common return wires (pink) which connect to the GND terminals on the board.

 

Just need to power it up and configure it.

 

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  • RMweb Gold

Have just confirmed another exhibition outing for Newham.

 

• April 15/16 - Helston show ( at Pool Acadamy)

 

• April 23 - Taunton SWAG Member's Day

 

• May 13/14 - Hayle show 

 

I'd best get a wriggle on.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Premium

I've just walked back upstairs into my 'den' carrying the sets of doors and window for my kit having just sprayed them..... the first suitable spare can I'd put my hands on was.... dark green! Tamiya Olive drab I think it was...

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  • RMweb Premium
6 hours ago, TrevorP1 said:

I've just walked back upstairs into my 'den' carrying the sets of doors and window for my kit having just sprayed them..... the first suitable spare can I'd put my hands on was.... dark green! Tamiya Olive drab I think it was...

 

4 hours ago, Stubby47 said:

I used Humbrol Dark Green Matt Acrylic spray, but I've run out!

I generally use Humbrol 30 for this sort of thing.

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  • RMweb Gold

All the Modulus kit is now installed, just needs some of the servo angle values tweaked and correct orientation of the frog relay switching.

Next will be testing, followed by uncouplers, followed by ballasting.

Meanwhile progress is being made on the 3rd section of the warehouse.

Scenically I need a goods shed of some sort, plus finish the station building & platform, plus low relief cottages for the backscene.

Edited by Stubby47
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51 minutes ago, Stubby47 said:

All the Modulus kit is now installed, just needs some of the servo angle values tweaked and correct orientation of the frog relay switching.

Next will be testing, followed by uncouplers, followed by ballasting.

Meanwhile progress is being made on the 3rd section of the warehouse.

Scenically I need a goods shed of some sort, plus finish the station building & platform, plus low relief cottages for the backscene.

Please can you tell me a bit about your coupling/ uncoupling strategy?!

I am at the point where I need to decide what I will be doing.

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  • RMweb Gold
16 hours ago, Rob K said:

Please can you tell me a bit about your coupling/ uncoupling strategy?!

I am at the point where I need to decide what I will be doing.

 I think strategy is a strong concept for what I'm attempting.

 

I'm intending to use the standard Bachmann 009 couplings, although these do seem to be variable in operation, even between what should be compatible wagons. 

 

Uncoupling will be via a servo-operated raising plate between the rails, just enough to lift the side arms of the loop off the upstanding pin.

 

Coupling will be 'push 'em together', but I'm considering whether some wagons will need additional weight, so they join, instead of skittering off along the track.

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