Simpleton's Guide to Wiring DCC Point Motors Required

[WIMorrison]

19 minutes ago, KingEdwardII said:

I use MTB MP1 motors, which are slow action stall motors, but these use 3 wire connections. These are DC operated, to switch them with DCC as I do requires using an accessory decoder with a 3 wire output - I use Digikeijs DR4018.

MP1 motors are not stall motors. Their motion is stopped by a cam acting upon a micro switch and they draw zero current when stationary (unlike stall motors)

[melmerby]

MP1 as Iain says.

 

The motor always rotates in the same direction.

They have a changeover microswitch which changes state every 180 degree rotation.

To continue the rotation another 180 you change which input is live

 

There is an eccentrically placed peg which moves the slide back and forth to correspond to each 180 degree rotation.

 

IIRC there is also a bridge rectifier so they can be used with 15v AC as well.

 

EDIT

It's something like this:

 

 

 

Edited July 27, 2022 by melmerby

[MyRule1]

Having now spent the weekend experimenting with various options, all around standard solenoid point motors of three types I have these observations to add;

Back to the OP and the retailers suggestions.

 

This weekend as part of my layout build I tried four types of point motors, all above board as the pre-laid track and my baseboard design  means beneath the point installation is too difficult:

 

Peco PL-12 Motor Adaptor Base + standard throw - fine bur too close to the track to fit a realistic building over it.

Peco +se with extension throw, this allows for a building to cover the motor, and the the throw can be covered as well.

Hornby side mounted motor, seems find but fiddly to mount and does not fix Peco points. Not realistic.

Gaugemaster side mounted - easier to locate than the Hornby, but my example jammed after a few throws. 

 

Of the these the Peco seems the most reliable and easiest to install, My layout has space for these as it is a single line with sidings, but might be difficult on a more complicated layout.

 

As to operation - I tried both PC based software and controller. Finally decided that although DCC was nice to have, as my layout is bases in 1944, I want to have the look and feel of a signal box rather than press buttons. I have a couple of Peco  PL-26R Passing Contact Switch Red Lever's in stock and these worked fine. However at around £10 each these are not a cheap option. Therefore I have gone old school and ordered some  old Triang black point levers of the internet at £3 each (free postage for a bulk order). 

 

As to wiring - two wires from my power supply to the switches and three wires from the lever frame onwards to the point motors.

 

When they arrive I will poot some pictures of the installation in my build thread and a link in this thread.

[melmerby]

So you didn't consider the much superior MP1 point motors?

A straightforward changeover switch and a simple supply is all you need to operate them.

Overall cost can't be much more than using Pecos etc.

 

[latestarter]

13 hours ago, MyRule1 said:

Having now spent the weekend experimenting with various options, all around standard solenoid point motors of three types I have these observations to add;

Back to the OP and the retailers suggestions.

 

This weekend as part of my layout build I tried four types of point motors, all above board as the pre-laid track and my baseboard design  means beneath the point installation is too difficult:

 

Peco PL-12 Motor Adaptor Base + standard throw - fine bur too close to the track to fit a realistic building over it.

Peco +se with extension throw, this allows for a building to cover the motor, and the the throw can be covered as well.

Hornby side mounted motor, seems find but fiddly to mount and does not fix Peco points. Not realistic.

Gaugemaster side mounted - easier to locate than the Hornby, but my example jammed after a few throws. 

 

Of the these the Peco seems the most reliable and easiest to install, My layout has space for these as it is a single line with sidings, but might be difficult on a more complicated layout.

 

As to operation - I tried both PC based software and controller. Finally decided that although DCC was nice to have, as my layout is bases in 1944, I want to have the look and feel of a signal box rather than press buttons. I have a couple of Peco  PL-26R Passing Contact Switch Red Lever's in stock and these worked fine. However at around £10 each these are not a cheap option. Therefore I have gone old school and ordered some  old Triang black point levers of the internet at £3 each (free postage for a bulk order). 

 

As to wiring - two wires from my power supply to the switches and three wires from the lever frame onwards to the point motors.

 

When they arrive I will poot some pictures of the installation in my build thread and a link in this thread.

Very helpful, thank you. Which peco's did you opt for - the PL-12's or the +SE's?