Weathering Powder Recommendations Please

[Andrew D]

As a fairly new modeller, I’ve been using chalk pastels scraped with a knife to produced weathering powder. I’m fairly happy with the results, but I’m guessing I’d be right if I said that proper modeller’s Weathering Powder would adhere better? 
 

Is there a marked improvement using ‘proper’ powders over pastels? 
 

WWS looks to be the best value for 4 or 5 pots, but Humbrol seems to produce more relevant colours (like white to bleach bodywork). DCC concepts seem very reluctant to reveal how big their pots are, and they only seem to be available in sets.

 

Any advice and tips would be much appreciated before investing in a set. 
 

Many thanks. 

[Torper]

I've been using Abteilung 502 pigments and am very pleased with the results.  They were recommended to me by the late and greatly missed Mick Bonwick.  They don't require a fixer and are denser than chalk pastels - once you start using them I don't think you'll want to go back to chalk.  Also, a little goes a very long way - a small pot will last you for ages.  I got mine from AMS Accessories and Paints (https://www.ams-paints-and-accessories.co.uk/abteilung_502_pigments.html|) but they're generally available from many sources.  You won't need many - the ones I use most for general weathering are black smoke, track rust and standard rust, although I also use washes.  So far as these latter are concerned, if you have an airbrush and want to do some simple but very effective locomotive weathering, I suggest that you watch Mick Bonwick's video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3H3BWhQrRP8 - it's long, but you can snip parts and it's enabled me to achieve very good results with minimum materials.

 

 

DT

Edited November 13, 2022 by Torper

[Gilbert]

I'd agree with everyting Torper says - I think the Abteilung pigments are the latest in the MIG dynasty. My only additional bits of advice are:

• use very small Filbert brushes or micro-brushes to apply very small amounts of the powders.....
• don't rely on the product names - one of my favourite "rust" shades is MIG "Vietnam Earth" so...
• work from a photo!

Chris Hopper

[Andrew D]

Many thanks @Torper and @Gilbert . Sounds like they might be ideal. 

 

I’ve done a little bit of weathering (on an old model, of course) using brushed acrylic paint, chalk pastels, and wash made of thinned acrylic paint with a drop of washing up liquid. I’m reasonably happy with the result but the grilles are too black and the powders have not adhered very well to the bogies, so I need to go back and revisit. 

 

I’ve not had the confidence to crack open the box with the airbrush in it yet. And yes, I know there is only one way to get over that! 😉

 

Edited November 13, 2022 by Andrew D

[westernviscount]

Hi Andrew,

 

I use Carrs weathering powders. However, humbrol powders are also excellent. 

 

I experimented with pastels but they dont take very well. I assume even though they are scraped, the binding agent is still present. 

 

A quick rattle over with humbrol matt acrylic (literally shaking the can briefly over the whole model). 

 

Another nice method for fixing powders is to mix them with humbrol decalfix and either wash over areas or dab them for heavier areas. This can retain the powdery texture for rust. Worth a try on a non precious model first. 

Edited November 17, 2022 by westernviscount
Incorrect information

[Gilbert]

Basically its important you find something you're comfortable with and gives you the end result you're after.

Try stuff!

[Barry O]

Greenstone has worked for me.. but I also use other varieties if the colour is appropriate. 

 

Baz

[Vecchio]

Carrs for me. Thanks god I have a few bags. Didn't know that they stopped producing them!

[jwealleans]

I found that the Carrs powders rubbed off very quickly and disappeared if you tried to fix them under varnish.   MIG, on the other hand, or whatever brand name they're sold under now (AK something?) stick like the proverbial to a blanket and do a much better job.   There doesn't seem to be the range of colours that the Carrs ones had, but maybe that's just the retailers I've looked at. 

 

I only use them dry.  Others who apply them dilute or to tacky surfaces may have a different experience.

[Hal Nail]

I've tried a few tho mostly MiG and not noticed any real difference in use to be honest but getting the tone you want may take some experimenting. For example I tried about 5 blacks, all of which were actually quite tinted, before I found one suitable for loco tank tops etc.

[westernviscount]

A few posts ago I suggested Carr's weathering powders are no more but this is not correct. They are still available! 

[Gilbert]

On 15/11/2022 at 07:21, Hal Nail said:

I've tried a few tho mostly MiG and not noticed any real difference in use to be honest but getting the tone you want may take some experimenting. For example I tried about 5 blacks, all of which were actually quite tinted, before I found one suitable for loco tank tops etc.

and which one was it?

Chris

[Hal Nail]

14 hours ago, Gilbert said:

and which one was it?

Chris

Ah. It was the one on the very left, but they got moved... Will retest and advise.

 

[Gilbert]

10 minutes ago, Hal Nail said:

Ah. It was the one on the very left, but they got moved... Will retest and advise.

 

I sometimes keep notes when I weather....and sometimes I don't....ho hum..

Chris

[Hal Nail]

The two I use most are Vallejo Natural Iron Oxide 73.115 which has a slight brown tint and 73.116 Carbon Black which is pretty pure.