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Tyneside Steel - revival of a stalled layout


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4 hours ago, luke the train spotter said:

Thank you! The loco shed is a kit from Stoneybridge Structures who attend a lot of exhibitions in the North East but also sell online through their website. I'd highly recommend their kits, they just go together like Lego. 

Thank you for the information. 

 

I may have to get one for a micro at some point. 

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On a similar subject Luke, do you wire the point blades and switch the frog, or do you leave it down to the point blades making good contact and not worry about the frog because they are dead end sidings? I’d like to use wired-blade electrofrog points with a switched frog, but manually controlled. The frog switching stuff I’ve seen seems to rely on a point motor to switch it. If you do wire the blades and switch the frog, what do you use to switch the frog (and where can I get one?!) I’m a DC dinosaur by the way :) 

Cheers,

Andrew

Edited by Andrew D
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20 hours ago, Andrew D said:

On a similar subject Luke, do you wire the point blades and switch the frog, or do you leave it down to the point blades making good contact and not worry about the frog because they are dead end sidings? I’d like to use wired-blade electrofrog points with a switched frog, but manually controlled. The frog switching stuff I’ve seen seems to rely on a point motor to switch it. If you do wire the blades and switch the frog, what do you use to switch the frog (and where can I get one?!) I’m a DC dinosaur by the way :) 

Cheers,

Andrew

 

So for the points I wire the blades and frog separately. The frog is wired to a simple SDPT switch which are widely available and very cheap. I think I purchased a bag of 200 for about £3 a couple years ago on eBay so that's plenty of layouts! I use switches like this one below. 1832648177_SDPTswitch.jpg.209050dacfaac3dbbc3c78ffd0667b8e.jpgThe switch has 3 contacts, the middle is wired to the frog and the 2 outer contacts are wired to the positive and negative rail. The contacts need to be the right way round for the frog to change to the right polarity if you're connecting these to the wire to pull the point blades across. 

 

In terms of modifying the point blade you might want to refer to the quick diagram I made below. Essentially you want to remove the presoldered wire between the point blades and frogs, I normally lever these off with a screwdriver. I then solder a thin piece of wire between the exposed point blade contact and the outside rail so the point blades are now always live and are not electrically connected to the frog. At this point I wire up the frog to the switch. Note that it is very important you use insulating fish plates on the outside of the frog otherwise you may get short circuits else where. 

 

wiring_diagram.png.ad8b8b0ec51f6f8b4485d579e64230cf.png

 

I hope this is of use. I find that this is the most robust way of wiring electrofrog points together and I've never had any failures. I do refer to this method in my YouTube video on wire in tube point control which you may find useful. 

 

 

 

 

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Been working a bit more on the layout this evening. My focus has been the other back corner of the layout with the rough hill shape created out of foamboard and plaster cloth. On top of that is a texture paste made up of paint, plaster and a dash of water. Then I started on the fence that runs against the backscene. This is just coffee stirrers glued and taped together from the rear but is removable for now so I can paint / weather it. The billboard is tactically angled to hide the corner in the backscene and I think it suits the space. IMG_20230128_213326232.jpg.19ead0b1782803d01cd3192d90ba7a39.jpgIMG_20230128_215645189.jpg.ec9ff11ab91ec0ff4212b905c10f35d3.jpg

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11 hours ago, luke the train spotter said:

Been working a bit more on the layout this evening. My focus has been the other back corner of the layout with the rough hill shape created out of foamboard and plaster cloth. On top of that is a texture paste made up of paint, plaster and a dash of water. Then I started on the fence that runs against the backscene. This is just coffee stirrers glued and taped together from the rear but is removable for now so I can paint / weather it. The billboard is tactically angled to hide the corner in the backscene and I think it suits the space. IMG_20230128_213326232.jpg.19ead0b1782803d01cd3192d90ba7a39.jpgIMG_20230128_215645189.jpg.ec9ff11ab91ec0ff4212b905c10f35d3.jpg

Great work, love the Metro poster

 

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1 hour ago, kevo said:

Hi  Luke  the build is really looking the part . can i ask  track plan wise is it a  right  hand and two  wye  points 

It is indeed a right hand and 2 Y points. Here's a picture though it's difficult to get a top down angle without the lighting blocking some of it out. There is a 30cm ruler for scale. IMG_20230130_232818083.jpg.c2d37aa0feb634c7b88fa8154801e78a.jpg

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6 hours ago, Oncomin5torm said:

What have you done for a fiddle yard luke? 

The fiddle yard is currently in a fairly primitive state. There is a small plywood toped baton frame that has been screwed and glued onto the original baseboard which supports the other side of the point that I added. Bolted onto that is a removable section which is very simple. Currently the trackwork is just a straight piece of spare flexi track taped on which I hope to replace with a longer piece and make it so the track comes apart when the fiddle yard extension board does. A 30cm ruler for scale. IMG_20230131_125623227.jpg.4539bd57ac86101d2236bcd86b4bb559.jpgIMG_20230131_125629060.jpg.5618eb63c217e046ee27a137522e8aab.jpg

 

Woodwork is definitely not my strong point but it works so I'm happy. With the fiddle yard and extension board the whole layout comes to about 3 1/2 ft long. 

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1 hour ago, luke the train spotter said:

The fiddle yard is currently in a fairly primitive state. There is a small plywood toped baton frame that has been screwed and glued onto the original baseboard which supports the other side of the point that I added. Bolted onto that is a removable section which is very simple. Currently the trackwork is just a straight piece of spare flexi track taped on which I hope to replace with a longer piece and make it so the track comes apart when the fiddle yard extension board does. A 30cm ruler for scale. IMG_20230131_125623227.jpg.4539bd57ac86101d2236bcd86b4bb559.jpgIMG_20230131_125629060.jpg.5618eb63c217e046ee27a137522e8aab.jpg

 

Woodwork is definitely not my strong point but it works so I'm happy. With the fiddle yard and extension board the whole layout comes to about 3 1/2 ft long. 

 

Superb Luke.

It doesnt need to be fancy if it works, it looks like it does the job. I find too many people (myself included) try to over complicate fiddle yards and want it to fit the biggest thing ever, and then it doesnt work all that well.
 

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1 hour ago, Oncomin5torm said:

 

Superb Luke.

It doesnt need to be fancy if it works, it looks like it does the job. I find too many people (myself included) try to over complicate fiddle yards and want it to fit the biggest thing ever, and then it doesnt work all that well.
 

As long as you're happy quickly popping wagons on and off the track by hand this solution works perfectly well. I will put down some pieces of thin foam (chopped up super cheap yoga mat) onto the plywood which just lets the wheels sit on something softer rather than having the flanges on a hard surface. Its the same foam that I use to line my stock boxes with so one yoga mat goes a pretty long way.

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