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Haxton Lane OO Western region BLT


jamest
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Hi,

 

This thread will be the story of my layout constructed during 2020/2021 when I attempted to use up my excess spare wood and code 100 track.

 

I’m not really one for variety as I already had a BLT and I’m currently doing a similar thing in 7mm. I have since sold on North Molton so I could then move this layout off the floor and continue with it.

 

I will use the first few posts to catch up to where I am with some construction photos….but looking back I’m disappointed to learn I was not always great at taking said pictures.

 

The basic original layout on a 6 foot by 18 inch board. I used softwood from one of my kids old beds for the board frame and bought some sheet material for the top.

Code 100 track…..insulfrog points.

Left to right…sidings off the single slip (run around)…..Platform road….Bay platform.

The track is pinned straight to the board and has been sprayed with sleeper grime.

I have tried to balance the head-shunt length, run around capacity, and the desire to have the entry point-work on scene so I can runaround in plain sight.

C9FDA90B-2600-445E-8F8E-B58AD1FF826D.jpeg.71d46d8253a17b175ffc9b1b04f38371.jpeg
 

I use kadees a lot in OO so I have buried magnets at strategic points for uncoupling……using rectangular and round magnets.

F0DD4A58-894B-4593-985F-49279EE1430F.jpeg.ed0cfad5477db523b9c1b42d239cff7b.jpeg

 

70786422-1039-4219-87CE-ED6F08DA70A8.jpeg.8953cd8d11c70d3b628138d269c9ac4e.jpeg
 

After some further thought, always a dangerous thing, I decided that I would like a little scenic run before the fiddle yard so I schemed out a 2 foot section with a canal crossing. I bought a wills viaduct kit to span the canal and I planned to have a road bridge behind to hide the canal hitting the backscene.

 

DB0B9BF8-9688-41E5-B2C2-F40ABB65A780.jpeg.11609d3727bef8afe9ba2a14c2a87263.jpeg

 

I used wills point rodding and got all that down prior to ballasting. These photos are taken after ballasting had started…..obviously!

 

I have also painted the rail sides a rusty colour.

 

673A75D0-B56D-44FB-BB8D-AE0401B0DDBF.jpeg.61f02523f1fb82ebb69a49512c7c2cd9.jpeg

 

B27D61CC-A4F1-4B81-9A24-283EAF8C9889.jpeg.569b9d129d2b88380570b0cd05d34362.jpeg

 

That’s it for now but I hope to keep updates flowing over the next few days.

 

Regards,

James

 

 

 

 

 

 

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6 minutes ago, cnw6847 said:

Looks great so far. Look forward to seeing progress.

 

I've not tried the magnets for KDs like you've used.

Do they work reliably like that and where did you buy them from please?

 

Hi Richard, 

 

I think I got them from amazon.... I'll check later. 

 

They do work perfectly well, you need to get the poles opposing one another on each rail side so there is a "magnetic flow" across the rail to pull the coupling. 

 

There is nothing wrong with the kadee undermagnet but it is more expensive and requires a relatively big hole. I think the round ones are easiest as you just need 4 drilled holes. 

 

Regards, 

James

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The track layout you have used is a very versatile one.   It's practically identical to an industrial scheme that Iain Rice drew up under the title of "The Other ICI", except that he used the long siding off the slip on the left of your photo as the entry road, Piano style.  In that guise, you need to shorten the loop to fit in long enough headshunts to get wagons around it. 

 

@Lambton58 built that one and is now on a second incarnation with a more conventional entrance, albeit with the crossed sidings laid with two points and a diamond rather than a slip.  The only niggle we found was wiring the diamond (and I guess you have the same issue with the slip) as you have a conflict if  both routes into the sidings are set.

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Hi Simon,

 

I did not consciously use the scheme you mention but I'm sure there are influences at the back of my mind. I wanted a bit of interest while using up points I had bought for other ideas that did not see the light of day.

 

Because I'm using insulfrog stuff and DCC - something i forgot to mention - the wiring is pretty easy. The points are controlled by seep point motors - but no need for frog switching.

 

Regards,

James

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Another quick update,

 

Here are some pictures of some finished ballasting. I've used woodland scenics grey on the main running lines and some Attwood aggregates grey road stone in the yard sidings to represent finer stuff. The yard sidings will have wood burner ash rubbed into them later - to make it look a little dirtier and non-uniform.

 

I was intending to use my peco platform edging as you can see, but as it is the concrete variety I planned to face it with brick plasticard. The views you see below are with it painted in a basic red brick colour. It is just pinned in place to enable ballasting to take place.

IMG_20210212_143542.jpg.a9f63f9ed465f9cab74ad8cc02b90c1e.jpg

 

IMG_20210212_143549.jpg.167f63cf22d39951e9ff043826de0786.jpg

 

 

 

After ballasting, and trying to paint a good varied brick colour, I decided to scrap that idea and revert to scalescenes printed sheets and card. See below - I've used aged brick and gone for a half paved, half tarmac platform surface. It was useful to ballast with the peco edging in place as the card platform would not have liked the PVA flood very much.

 

IMG_20210313_111005.jpg.5de64d37e69fb509c4b351abb9bb5411.jpg

 

IMG_20210313_110957.jpg.cad26ff12205f49ea5ec33d91f0df56f.jpg

 

You'll see I've also used my standard gaugemaster backscene as well!

 

Cheers,

James

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8 minutes ago, Peter Kazmierczak said:

James, I must say your brick platform edging looks really effective.

 

I was just about to say the same thing! Very impressive platform.

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Hi again,

 

Thanks for the kind comments.

 

Here is the progress on the scenic run over the canal.

 

Profiled front for the embankment 

693DF3F6-9882-47ED-BEA9-C64A95B9BCFA.jpeg.1b5cac5979fe5ad4e00218da64e72b16.jpeg

 

Road bridge behind against the backscene…..when I add it!

383E8CEB-02AC-4ADF-8292-AB91F71E7542.jpeg.4bf997ec37bc7c85ed5a91a41331b7ff.jpeg

 

Wills bridge primed first and then washed over with a dark mix and wiped off.

The canal sides are from scalescenes as well.

8D9E693A-4E32-45E7-903B-F0ECE557DDE2.jpeg.c95123f8b8621a22e8332d78735c2208.jpeg

 

Water surface is also scalescenes covered in several brushed coats of varnish.

F52F0791-6DBD-4E78-A5E5-83F89A96FD6C.jpeg.6b9088725401ac34792e5b353be52a16.jpeg

 

The rear road bridge is red brick and wills varigirder. The rail bridge is still removable at this stage.

3E87B98D-7979-4921-B1F0-80103E3B0EFC.jpeg.38ae25c9a2029b3bcdc8d8e8529c53a7.jpeg

 

C3BDE1A3-705B-4D77-A3F0-B8770644A931.jpeg.305df7aa9e584f897c9176a6f0548b1b.jpeg

 

8404DBB8-C942-468F-ABC7-117BAD09ABC7.jpeg.adcb42ca743d8352558c1b6617a8ac2c.jpeg
 

I then filled the embankments in and applied plaster bandage….sorry no photos of that….then out with the grass master and apply some grass. Also started to fit the back-scene here.

C22FB39F-850B-4831-82DD-A28FC2CA6045.jpeg.5fe5dd980fd79596f1315a074f91a4f2.jpeg
 

542AC286-D981-4B0B-9908-35CA1E93326F.jpeg.b91e1da2672f84d0758d273f8ac8e4c8.jpeg

 

Regards,

James

 

 

 

 

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8 hours ago, jamest said:

Attwood aggregates grey road stone in the yard sidings to represent finer stuff.

Where do you get your Atwood Aggregates ballast.  Does being ‘local’ help?

Paul.

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18 minutes ago, 5BarVT said:

Where do you get your Atwood Aggregates ballast.  Does being ‘local’ help?

Paul.

Hi Paul,

 

I’ve always bought from them at shows….I always find it better to see and ‘feel’ it to judge what grade to buy. I don’t know if they have an online shop?

 

Regards,

 James 

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23 hours ago, jamest said:

Hi Richard, 

 

I think I got them from amazon.... I'll check later. 

 

They do work perfectly well, you need to get the poles opposing one another on each rail side so there is a "magnetic flow" across the rail to pull the coupling. 

 

There is nothing wrong with the kadee undermagnet but it is more expensive and requires a relatively big hole. I think the round ones are easiest as you just need 4 drilled holes. 

 

Regards, 

James

Thank you James, think I might try some.

 

I do like the big undertrack ones as well.

 

Do this arrangement ease the issue of axles attracting on the magnets?

Fortunately I do have a good supply of the old plastic axle metal wheels but handy to know if I run out.

 

Links would be useful please?

 

Many thanks 


Richard

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1 hour ago, cnw6847 said:

Thank you James, think I might try some.

 

I do like the big undertrack ones as well.

 

Do this arrangement ease the issue of axles attracting on the magnets?

Fortunately I do have a good supply of the old plastic axle metal wheels but handy to know if I run out.

 

Links would be useful please?

 

Many thanks 


Richard

Hi,

 

Not great at links, etc, but here is my attempt....

Magenesis 52 Pieces Neodymium Magnets 10x2 mm Disc Magnets Extremely Strong Approx. 2 kg Adhesive Strength https://amzn.eu/d/2ZYyuiI

 

It was from amazon and looks to be about a tenner. 

 

Regarding the axle draw..... I've not done a lot of running and testing yet but you do still get some movement. I can't confidently say whether it is worse or better than the kadee magnet. 

 

Regards 

James 

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Hi again,

 

Here are a few more updates on the progress. This is still catching up - I don't work this fast normally!

 

Once the basics are bone - track laid - bridges and platform done - I started to plan the greenery.

 

First the road - it will merge with the backscene behind the signal box and some hedging.

IMG_20210404_170522.jpg.e193e6c421e5ecfaa1de81973daa4b20.jpg

 

IMG_20210404_170528.jpg.cddf6805185c1f9f0511babefc351a27.jpg

 

I have also formed the land and plaster bandaged behind the bay platform.

IMG_20210404_170537.jpg.8bcfe9eb4d5c3b799994ca6427490455.jpg

 

And added a wall and gate at the end.

IMG_20210404_170600.jpg.3295fe972c1512dc652e0f1d6c22ad6e.jpg

 

The station building is a gaugemaster (is it fordhampton?) effort and is covered with scalescenes paper to match the other structures. Although this building will change slightly later. The pagoda shelter is a Bachmann scenecraft item.

IMG_20210404_170551.jpg.05ae99345c312da83f10f7d3e906f36b.jpg

 

IMG_20210404_170545.jpg.2983fabbc8d9e9fef0fe1ebc049034b8.jpg

 

regards,

James

 

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Hi again,

 

Updates thick and fast!

 

I mentioned the station building above and how I coated the plastic Fordhampton building with brick paper. It didn’t really go that well so I decided to make the base structure in card using the windows and doors from the kit.

 

619DD9D5-3BAA-46DD-9769-6DDA28A65ED4.jpeg.80ca17d7434e2c58399e0589d850d23d.jpeg

 

1FE80D66-FC4B-465D-B883-F9A038DBBE2C.jpeg.ca4ace7732836debe5abfab68585d2a9.jpeg

 

I also decided to try and copy my Bachmann resin shed used on my North Molton layout. I shortened it very slightly to suit the wills corrugated sheet material. The inside will use printed sheets again…..you will see the finished shed in position later. I can’t show it in situ without jumping too far forward.

 

So new frame next to resin building

2CFA6CEE-C922-4C18-BFD3-D1395D761F1E.jpeg.c089a7ec80f70f5a5061b64e464dc549.jpeg

 

1E8BB038-59FC-43E1-BDFA-ECEBBBB731F8.jpeg.28fe3d59d3931bd22db854558a519f4f.jpeg

 

Clad in wills sheets

C014F2E6-1ECF-46DB-9D59-425A96CB2C89.jpeg.72dc865b3aa01af8c40ef72edf287ad8.jpeg

 

Inside paper surfaces

3FDEE4CB-1531-46D5-839C-5BAB42169F4A.jpeg.4aa52b1b75bed1b33547f7e7c6fd2cfd.jpeg

 

Roof clad and door runner added

A34E52DD-78DE-41A9-8A73-50AFC46D452B.jpeg.0f1e650de8a024dc1502d58df4613969.jpeg

 

Painted up next to the resin building again

22EF3856-89DE-461B-A45C-465025EA27CE.jpeg.d495b53afbe65babcf8208c7ae6a4cc0.jpeg

 

I will show it on its brick base with door and down pipes later.

 

Regards,

James

 

 

 

 

Edited by jamest
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1 hour ago, Peter Kazmierczak said:

Crkey, you work quick, James. I'd be just on my coffee and biscuits whilst still thinking about it...  I assume the Midland signalbox is just there as a placeholder for the moment.

Hi Peter,

 

I do look prolific here….but it is just an illusion!

 

What you’ve seen so far is a record of a good few months work.

 

The signal box will indeed change for a more appropriate one in the future.

 

cheers

James

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Have to say I'm enjoying this, James. 

 

A nice looking layout. 

 

Rob. 

 

 

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21 hours ago, jamest said:

Hi,

 

Not great at links, etc, but here is my attempt....

Magenesis 52 Pieces Neodymium Magnets 10x2 mm Disc Magnets Extremely Strong Approx. 2 kg Adhesive Strength https://amzn.eu/d/2ZYyuiI

 

It was from amazon and looks to be about a tenner. 

 

Regarding the axle draw..... I've not done a lot of running and testing yet but you do still get some movement. I can't confidently say whether it is worse or better than the kadee magnet. 

 

Regards 

James 

Many thanks for the info James.

 

I'll order some magnets to try.

 

The buildings and layout are looking excellent.

 

Cheers

 

Richard

 

 

Edited by cnw6847
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On 24/01/2023 at 13:44, jamest said:

The yard sidings will have wood burner ash rubbed into them later

Can you say a bit more about this process? Do you ballast first and then sprinkle on the ash or something different? My wood ash tends to be light grey!

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1 hour ago, ikcdab said:

Can you say a bit more about this process? Do you ballast first and then sprinkle on the ash or something different? My wood ash tends to be light grey!

Hi Ian,

 

I will try to explain it later when I show the result - the photos to date just show the road stone ballast laid in the yard via the PVA flood.

 

I have had varying results with wood burner ash over several layouts - I "lucked in" a bit on Bratton Lane with the yard surface. I first painted with textured paint and then applied neat PVA and rubbed the ash into the rough surface - perhaps fixing with hairspray or varnish later. I never have any luck with laying ash dry and then wetting and applying PVA like ballast. It always seems to behave badly, when applying said diluted PVA, and lack texture when drying as a grey lump.

 

So going forward I like to have a textured surface to apply the ash to - like textured paint or this fine ballast - then apply over neat PVA, perhaps with a sieve - then rub and re-apply as necessary after with hairspray/varnish.

 

Hope that helps - the pictures will follow soon.

 

PS - looking in your signature link I notice I was only looking at your thread with admiration the other day - first for the electrics (not my thing) - then a bit of shed envy - and of course the actual layout and buildings, etc - very nice!

 

Cheers,

James

 

 

Edited by jamest
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Really enjoying your build James - it’s nice to see a build from the very beginning. I love the scalescenes paper you’ve used by the side of your canal - could you please tell me which one you’ve used as the only one I can find on their website is ‘cobbled setts’ and it doesn’t seem to look like yours.

Many thanks.

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