Building white metal kits in 00 scale

[Memories of Navenby]

Hello to everyone out there

I am very new to all of this in fact I have only just joined this site. I first of all want to know if there is any Tutorial's out there showing how to build a white metal/brass train kit's out there also is there anyone in the Lincolnshire/ Nottinghamshire area that will teach me how to construct these items " payment for this service will be given of course"  Failing that is there anyone to build  the items for me again for a fee.

Happy modeling to you all

Stephen

[AY Mod]

Welcome Stephen,

 

I noticed that @Tony Wright has mentioned the possibility of running a soldering course which may be of interest - there's no better tutor in this regard plus he won't be too far away from you.

 

 

 

Drop him a message here by clicking on the 'Message' button on his profile page to discuss further - https://www.rmweb.co.uk/profile/18225-tony-wright/?wr=eyJhcHAiOiJmb3J1bXMiLCJtb2R1bGUiOiJmb3J1bXMtY29tbWVudCIsImlkXzEiOjY0Mjk1LCJpZF8yIjo1MDk4ODU3fQ==  

 

Andy

[ianLMS]

Tony Wright also stars in the Right Track DVD series and one of them covers building loco kits. DVDs still out there on ebay now and again. Also look up loco building on You-tube. A couple of very good tutorials available.

 

https://youtu.be/wvv_HZn6yvg is one series i found useful. 

 

Failing that, keep an eye out for the Missenden modelling weekends at Missenden Abbey. I am going to attend the one for 4mm loco kitbuilding tomorrow so can give an update on how i get on next week. 

[Flying Pig]

Iain Rice's book on the subject is pretty good: https://wildswanbooks.co.uk/Books/Whitemetal-Locos.htm

[Jeff Smith]

Stephen, I'm sure someone will suggest cutting your teeth on simple cheap wagon kits first, before you spend a lot of money on locomotive kits.  It is unfortunately very easy to melt white metal items by accident.  Whilst you won't accidentally melt brass it does take a bit of practice to run a nice solder fillet without unsoldering earlier joints.  A variable temperature soldering station would be a good first purchase.

[uax6]

I'm no expert, but it might be worth you having a look at my loco bodging thread, it shows how I do things step by step, although you'll note I tend not to finish anything! (and yes I must update things too!)

 

Its not that difficult, but the light bulb moment for me was when Tony Wright recommended to me 9% phosphoric acid for the flux, life is easy knowing that trick!

 

Andy G

 

[roythebus1]

I'm refreshing my whitemetal soldering skills at the moment, having learnt them over 50 years ago when such things were commonplace. A variable temperature soldering iron is a must, I use an Antec iron, and a good supply of bits! Low melt solder of different temperatures are a must, as are fibre brushes and a small brass wire brush to clean parts before soldering. Use the right flux for the job as well. I've recently discovered Carr's low-melt flux is right for the job.

 

I still have my first whitemetal kit, a Wills Finecast P class, built in 1966 using Evo-stick. It didn't stay stuck for long and I leant how to use low-melt solder. It's been rebuilt a couple of times over the years and has a more modern etched chassis, but I might reinstate the original XT60 motor for originality. More recently I go their revised version and still haven't quite finished that!

 

I also produced a series of whitemetal bus kits in the 1970s so got quite adept at soldering those. Good luck.

[pete_mcfarlane]

Another option is to join a local club that caters for finescale modeling and pick up tips from the members. Probably on the wrong side of Nottingham for you (I assume that your near Lincoln from your username), but I'm an occasional member of the Scalefour Society's East Midlands Group.

 

https://www.scalefour.org/ag/emag/

 

13 hours ago, uax6 said:

Its not that difficult, but the light bulb moment for me was when Tony Wright recommended to me 9% phosphoric acid for the flux, life is easy knowing that trick!

Another vote for phosphoric acid - I use Carr's yellow label.