Screw link couplings

[Rowan]

I'm sure this has been covered somewhere by someone! I am about to fit functioning screw link couplings to some 4mm scale RTR coaches and loco. Can anyone kindly point me in the direction of an idiot's guide as to the easiest way to do it. From post I have read, the probability is I will be using Smiths ready assembled couplings.

Cheers,

Rowan.

[davknigh]

The only actual functioning  screw link couplings that I am aware of in 4mm scale are those that were made by Exactoscale. I suspect that they are as scarce as hen’s teeth but might be found at some shows at bring and buy tables. All the rest, AFAIK, are cosmetic representations. 

 

HTH

 

David

[darrel]

Smiths couplings don't actually screw up if that's what you were looking for but you can still use them to couple up. They do look the part. Only time I have used screw and 3 link couplings on a layout was on the clubs 0 gauge layout and while they looked good they were very fiddly especially on some locos with snowploughs. I can only imagine how fiddly they would be in 00 gauge. 

[brossard]

Screw links may be feasible for coupling the end coach to a loco, however I always used Kadees for that.  Trying to couple screw links between coaches with gangways might just fry your brain.  I use screw links in 7mm for coupling Mk1's to the loco and that is a challenge.  If you have coaches that used buckeye couplings in life* then Kadees are a good analogue although I found they have considerable to and fro slop making close coupling difficult.  I actually used 0 gauge Kadees for between my Gresley coaches and that works very well.  A really good alternative (and I wish I had found these before I made the switch to 7mm) are magnetic couplings from Hunt:

 

https://www.keymodelworld.com/article/hunts-magnetic-couplings-offer-easy-replacement

 

I have actually seen long rakes of coaches with these fitted running flawlessly around the club layout.  There are various types to suit most coaches.  "Game changer!" was my reaction.

 

All the wagons, locos and carriages on my 0 gauge layout have 3, Instanter or screw link couplings and coupling/uncoupling is generally quite feasible although it can be frustrating, especially when buffer beam pipes get in the way.

 

John

 

* I know of two coach types that used buckeyes; Mk1's and Gresley.  There may be others.

Edited July 8, 2023 by brossard

[BR traction instructor]

I've just assembled and fitted Ambis (etch CC4) cosmetic screw couplings to several tipplers...there are 3 lengths of coupling section which can be paired in numerous configurations to give a range of overall coupling lengths...

 

BeRTIe

Edited July 8, 2023 by BR traction instructor

[westernviscount]

Roxey do an etch you can assemble to make some nice looking, usable screw link. They supply long and short "chain" pieces and the screw piece so they can be made easier to use. 

https://www.roxeymouldings.co.uk/product/465/4a111-screw-link-couplings/

 

No connection with company. Happy customer. 

[PMP]

A how to using Masokits couplings. The principle can be adapted for other makes.
 

https://albionyard.com/2012/03/15/fifteen-minute-heroes/

[Captain Kernow]

In choosing which Screw couplings to use, I would say that it depends on the conditions that you are operating under - is this at an exhibition or in the more relaxed privacy of your own home?

 

The most scale-looking ones are probably the Masokits ones, which I have used for a number of locos. Properly made up, they look good and are definitely useable.

 

However, the larger (slightly overscale) hooks of the Smiths variety make this types use easier on the operator, if operating the layout under exhibition conditions. This is the type that I now fit as standard to all rolling stock and loco projects.

 

However, this is all very well, but if you are tired or have an unsteady hand (for whatever reason, even temporary) or if your layout is set at such a height that you keep having to put a strain on your lower back, then there is one factor that has proven a game changer for me in the last few years and this is magnetic lower links (applies to both screw link and 3-link/instanter couplings).

 

Bear in mind that the space between vehicles, where you have to poke your coupling hook, is usually quite dark and being able to see what you are doing is imperative under exhibition conditions.

 

This is why I always use a magnetic final link and a magnetic coupling pole, attached to a pencil torch.