Switcher102 Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 Hi John - that's a great sound, that engine. Love it …. I'd love be able to flick a switch on the dashboard of my 1:1 scale car and make it sound like that once in while, just for fun You've done a great job with that Ford. I mentioned about the quick changes of direction. Do you know what I mean? Like at time 0:50 in your video the Ford is reversing and suddenly changes direction and goes forward. Even modern gearboxes would have problems doing that but those old 1920s / 30s gearboxes didn't even have synchromesh on 2nd and 3rd gears, never mind 1st gear. The trouble is it's very easy to slip up and do that on controllers, especially controllers with a stick for movement. Is your controller like this?:- http://static.zigwheels.com/media/content/2012/Nov/remote-control-bentley-continental-supersports_560x420.jpg Those controllers are great for having fun with bigger model racing cars and airplanes etc but I think they need modifying when you're looking for realistic movement, and at small scales. When I eventually get around to doing this remote control stuff if I use a hand set like that I will make a 'gate' to fix around the stick that makes it impossible to move the stick quickly from forward to reverse. What I mean is a frame (or gate) that fixes over the stick and has vertical slots in it that allows the stick to move upwards and downwards for forward and reverse … BUT … those vertical slots are not in line. In order for the stick to move from forward to reverse it has to first move horizontally. Do you see what I mean? The stick wouldn't be able to move so quickly from forward to reverse then, it would have to zig-zag first (it would have to move horizontally first). According to the guy who was demonstrating that MCC Digital System, converting it to 1:43 scale wouldn't be as simple as just installing the equipment in 1:43 scale vehicles. It would require dealing with higher voltages, higher specification decoders. I would need help with that, and the group that deals with such things is MERG. Have you heard of them John? Here's their web site:- http://www.merg.org.uk/index.php Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlostcreek Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 Hi Rich. You are right it concerns steer and drive away. I still have to learn to drive well. Yes I have the controler on the picture. i have forward and reverse on one stick. But i can change it in forward and backward to arrange with other stick and throttle with other stick I'm going to see the homepage. thanks for the link John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 (edited) As an update, here's a video of the finished crane In operation on a 'test-bed@ with DCC sound... ... or with music Edited February 20, 2014 by Giles Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Young Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 As an update, here's a video of the finished crane In operation on a 'test-bed' Looks great Giles, up to your usual high standards :-) One query, would it be possible to put a longer coupling bar between the wagons to make it easier when picking up the first drum? Cheers, Andrew Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 Cheers mate! The problem is incompetent operation (and trying to do too many things at once...!) it's actually perfectly viable. I could fit long bars (as per prototype) but I'm worried about propelling, especially on curves..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Young Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Cheers mate! The problem is incompetent operation (and trying to do too many things at once...!) it's actually perfectly viable. I could fit long bars (as per prototype) but I'm worried about propelling, especially on curves..... That makes sense, though I wasn't critic ing your competence.... you'll be practicing until you're seeing cable drums in your sleep.... It's an unusual prototype which I look forward to seeing the progress :-) any plans for a Ruston? Cheers, Andrew Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Good stuff Giles. On mine when I get around to it I was going to have a single block hook for certain loads which will also pick up a double shackle like yours for those loads I can't terminate into a single loop for pick up. The double shackle I intend to be detachable and re-attachable as the loads demand. For this to work the block hook will have to remain in its square to the track position be that inline or at 90D to it, I've yet to decide which is best. Sorry for the terms I have used if they are incorrect. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 Good stuff Giles. On mine when I get around to it I was going to have a single block hook for certain loads which will also pick up a double shackle like yours for those loads I can't terminate into a single loop for pick up. The double shackle I intend to be detachable and re-attachable as the loads demand. For this to work the block hook will have to remain in its square to the track position be that inline or at 90D to it, I've yet to decide which is best. Sorry for the terms I have used if they are incorrect. Regards Hi Barnaby, The hook on my block is threaded in, so it can be rotated (and it was easier to make that way!). Do I understand you to say that you will have a single cable to the hook? In which case there will be a problem controlling the rotation of the hook, particularly as it raises and lowers. Best, Giles That makes sense, though I wasn't critic ing your competence.... you'll be practicing until you're seeing cable drums in your sleep.... It's an unusual prototype which I look forward to seeing the progress :-) any plans for a Ruston? Cheers, Andrew I should criticise my operating competence if I were you..... Fair game!! If you're talking narrow gauge Ruston, I do have a Wrightlines cabless Ruston kit salted away which is on the list - I lent Adrian S my B102 chassis kit from it, so he can package up a pile more (I need another for a different loco, anyway). The trouble is, I'm starting to get locos coming out of my ears..... The standard gauge Garratt is next for completion. Cheers, Giles 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 No sorry Giles my hook block will look like yours but I want to be able to shed the double shackle so I can pick up single hook-loop loads.............. if you know what I mean. Thinking over night the simple way could be, as I intend to take some loads inside the store doors to have the "hand of God" move the twin shackle off & on out of sight. I'm not sure I understand how you control rotation of the hook, I thought the mass of the block having the hook secured to it would keep it in the position as set? It would then always present in the same way on lift and lower and the slew across would have no effect. I'll probably discover all the nuances [problems] as I start to play. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 If your talking about the chain sling (sometimes called 'Brothers' - trade name) I'm using them in the form of a bridle with a spreader bar in order to do a simple pickup (which is quite legitimate). Slings can also be used singly, rather than in pairs. I've not got an actual shackle on mine - a shackle is a 'U' (or omega) shaped piece, with a bar through two eyes at the ends, and is used to join the chain to the hook (in this instance). I've been confused as to whether you are having your hook suspended on one cable, or on a cable round a pulley, like mine. One advantage of the hook/sheeve arrangement that I have is that it keeps the hook in the same alignment, whereas a single cable suspension encourages the hook to rotate as it ascends/descends. G. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Switcher102 Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Another excellent job Giles. I like the way the crane moves and the way the cables move aswell. The cable bends like it should between the pullies and of course the head moves along lovely and smoothly. Can rely on you for some good realistic action, although I'm not sure the Fowler would move quite that slowly in postioning itself, and that's coming from someone who is himself critised by most of his fellow modellers for driving too slowly. I'm sure you'll make quite a splash if you do exhibit with your lorries, locomotives and crane at the Gauge O Guild show at Telford in September (which I seem to remember you're booked down for). Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 Thanks Rich - absolutely! Far too slow.....! Yes, very much looking forward to Telford, though I'll probably leave the crane at home, as we'll have our hands full with The End of The Line! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 You must bring the crane for those special one of displays on the hour, go on, go on, go on please. Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlostcreek Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Hi Giles, beautiful work, . You can do a lot on small place John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TimC Posted November 21, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 21, 2014 Having agreed to buy the End of the Line off Giies I needed to get back to my RC lorry. I hadn't really looked at it for 15 odd months and I knew there were a few niggles I needed to get my head around and get straight. Of course, a string of other little projects came along (including starting a second lorry) and now in the last couple of weeks I've had to get my act together to get a vehicle running for Warley. Well I managed it just! I wouldn't have done it without some machining help from my good friend JimG so a big thanks to him. Here is the completed vehicle, once I get a few moments next week, I'll post some more details but essentially I followed what Giles has done before. After Warley it needs to go back on the bench so I can simplify the steering mechanism and do a host of other little minor jobs like tidying up the wiring and adding the cab interior (or whatever I can get to fit). I'm operating Clarendon at Warley which is fortunately just a short distance from End of the Line so you might see my Ford Thames having a trundle when I'm free. There is a Morris Commercial hot on the heals of the Thames as I'll need two vehicles for when I exhibit End of the Line at the Yate show on 31 January 2015. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 I have just returned to this topic to look at what you've been up to.... Quite outstanding work. I love the gantry crane and the way you have arranged things to avoid entirely the HoG! The video is captivating (despite the slight glitches - "The problem is incompetent operation (and trying to do too many things at once...!") The whole thing is beautifully detailed and utterly convincing. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted November 21, 2014 Author Share Posted November 21, 2014 Thank you very much, Chaz! A lovely complement....! The crane seems to work quite reliably, and be quite forgiving regarding positioning and its ability to 'pick up' - so we're on to a winner there. It's not going to please those who like to see trains running fast and frequently, though! The joy of it is that it is actually nice and simple...... Tim - loving the lorries!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NRS91 Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 (edited) Brilliant work folks! Keep it up!EDIT:Giles, after all the conversions youve done and the knowledge youve acquired is there a RC conversion set up you can recommend? Im looking at RC converting Corgi 1:50 and 00 gauge model trucks and possibly build a plastic kit as RC. I have some 2ch RC gear from my childhood so should have a Tx to work just want to know what motor, gearbox, servo, speed controller, receiver etc you would recommend to save me having to repeat your learning curve. Edited November 21, 2014 by NRS91 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted November 21, 2014 Author Share Posted November 21, 2014 Brilliant work folks! Keep it up! EDIT: Giles, after all the conversions youve done and the knowledge youve acquired is there a RC conversion set up you can recommend? Im looking at RC converting Corgi 1:50 and 00 gauge model trucks and possibly build a plastic kit as RC. I have some 2ch RC gear from my childhood so should have a Tx to work just want to know what motor, gearbox, servo, speed controller, receiver etc you would recommend to save me having to repeat your learning curve. Frankly, things have moved on so much in the last few years, and got so much cheaper, that I shouldn't use your old RC gear, as it will actually make life more difficult for you, and make the end result less effective. (I've been through that, and also have a pile of perfectly good, but 'unusable' transmitters, receivers etc. that I now have no viable use for, and am never likely to.....) The DelTang 2 GHz 2DSM system is the one to use - it is cheap (under £30 for a combined 4 channel receiver/speed controller) that is only 10mm square, and the appropriate Tx can be bought on eBay for about £15 usually (check on the DelTang website for details. The servos are the standard micro servos at about 2.7grammes or such, and the motor gear boxes are the micro-gear motors for places like Technobots (and EBay). I use the 6v 100:1 ratio. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NRS91 Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 (edited) Frankly, things have moved on so much in the last few years, and got so much cheaper, that I shouldn't use your old RC gear, as it will actually make life more difficult for you, and make the end result less effective. (I've been through that, and also have a pile of perfectly good, but 'unusable' transmitters, receivers etc. that I now have no viable use for, and am never likely to.....) The DelTang 2 GHz 2DSM system is the one to use - it is cheap (under £30 for a combined 4 channel receiver/speed controller) that is only 10mm square, and the appropriate Tx can be bought on eBay for about £15 usually (check on the DelTang website for details. The servos are the standard micro servos at about 2.7grammes or such, and the motor gear boxes are the micro-gear motors for places like Technobots (and EBay). I use the 6v 100:1 ratio. thanks GIles, I think i remember you wanting to try 260:1 combined motor, gearbox and axle, did you get round to trying that? Also did you try the 1.7gm 'worlds tiniest servo' i think you also found? I used to be into model railways and remote control models but these days i mainly work in 1:1 however im finishing my degree so im looking into something that i can tinker with on the kitchen table at Uni Im looking at a Scammell Highwayman to make as RC 00 Gauge so should be fun Edited November 22, 2014 by NRS91 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TimC Posted December 8, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 8, 2014 This post is in reply to NRS91 query on wiring a Deltang Rx which was posted on the End of the Line thread. There are a number of different versions of the Deltang Rx's that are suitable for driving a RC vehicle. I have used a Rx41d, the Rx43d and Rx45 can also be used, the latter two have greater functionality if you want to fit lights and other features. No doubt, there are probably others too. Here is a basic wiring diagram of what I have done. Whatever Rx is used the pin outs and specification can be found on the relevant instructions page on the Deltang website: http://www.deltang.co.uk/rx41d.htm http://www.deltang.co.uk/rx43d.htm http://www.deltang.co.uk/rx45-v5.htm Needless to say, make sure you look at the correct page for your version of the Rx, it may not be one of the three I've linked above. There is generally a power input +/- to the Rx, a motor output (normally 'H1' or 'ESC', to provide a reversible motor drive - on some Rxs the -ve maybe common to the motor drive too so check the instructions), and a servo control output - either called something like rudder/aileron/P1-8 (which provides the control signal for the servo). There are mini wiring diagrams in the instructions so you should be able to see what is necessary. The instructions also include a short video explaining how to bind a Rx to the Tx. I did a lash up and bench tested the wiring first so I could work out what the best arrangement was for using the 4 channels on the Tx. Most Rxs allow the drive and servo control to be assigned to different channels by 'programming'. There is an explanatory video on the Deltang website and while it looks a bit complicated, its not too bad in practice. You just need to work out exactly what you need to do first and then do it in a quiet moment so you don't loose your place or get distracted. Saying that, my Rx41d is quite simple so its not as involved as the Rxs with more functions. The Deltang Rxs are not protected from short circuits so ensure you understand what you are doing with the wiring before applying power. The solder pads are quite small and easily shorted to its neighbour if too much solder is used so again be careful. Once installed in a metal vehicle I suggest the receiver is protected with tape or sleeving. Good luck! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NRS91 Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 Thanks Tim, I have the RX45-5 and one that confuses me is the two 3-6v inputs? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TimC Posted December 8, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 8, 2014 Nick Oh, I agree, that does look confusing, there is only one +ve connection on the Rx41d. I've not used the Rx45-5 so I would e-mail Dave at Deltang for clarification. See http://www.deltang.co.uk/email.htm or call the supplier from where you purchased the Rx. A quick Google didn't provide an answer either. Sorry I can't be of more help but best be safe than sorry. I understand that Dave is very good at answering e-mails. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share Posted December 8, 2014 On the Rx45-5, One positive is an input from the battery - the one one the bottom right - also labeled 'lipo', and the other one on the left is a positive 'out-put', used in conjunction with the F1 (and F2, presumably) for a single direction motor. (Instead of the H1 terminals) I must say that I'm such a coward as far as soldering onto these teeny receivers, that I pay the two quiz extra for the wired versions to save me the trouble!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NRS91 Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 On the Rx45-5, One positive is an input from the battery - the one one the bottom right - also labeled 'lipo', and the other one on the left is a positive 'out-put', used in conjunction with the F1 (and F2, presumably) for a single direction motor. (Instead of the H1 terminals) I must say that I'm such a coward as far as soldering onto these teeny receivers, that I pay the two quiz extra for the wired versions to save me the trouble!! Hi Giles, i only discovered the pre-wired ones after buying mine, going to have to do it the hard way. Tim was right Dave was VERY helpful with almost instant reply, got an action plan in place now, just need to measure up for a tiny LiPo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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