johnlostcreek Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 (edited) Hi All, i whas working on my 1:35 A-Ford here some pictures please go for more details and pictures to my homepage http://translate.goo...de% 20a-ford.htm John Edited April 16, 2013 by johnlostcreek 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted April 16, 2013 Author Share Posted April 16, 2013 John, that is a beautiful job you are making of it! Quite the best! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlostcreek Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 (edited) Hi Giles, thanks, I have a question. the result of the servo can be arranged. or, can I set this up. This because of the rash of the wheels. John Edited April 16, 2013 by johnlostcreek Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlostcreek Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 (edited) Here some pictures of my 1:48 A-Ford Edited April 16, 2013 by johnlostcreek 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted April 16, 2013 Author Share Posted April 16, 2013 (edited) Hi Giles, thanks, I have a question. the result of the servo can be arranged. or, can I set this up. This because of the rash of the wheels. John I'm terrily sorry, John - I'm afraid I don't understand the question - it's a language thing..... The servo needs to be set up centred, obviously, and with quite a short operationg arm - probably around 8mm or thereabouts from the servo pivot to the steering drag link. Ideally the end of the sevo arm would be in line with steering arms on the wheel hubs. i don't know if this answers your question, though! (the wheels should be straight with the servo in this position - ideally) Edited April 16, 2013 by Giles 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlostcreek Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 (edited) Hi Giles, sorry, I try again. Can you set, how far the wheels rotate out. with te serfo or does that, with quite a short operationg arm. John Edited April 17, 2013 by johnlostcreek Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted April 17, 2013 Author Share Posted April 17, 2013 Ah, I understand! It is the shortness of the servo arm that controls how far the wheels turn (and also how short/long the steering horns on the stub axle are...). Hence servo arm around 8-9 mm. Check how much rotation the servo gives you (is it 90 degrees?) and if you draw that out, that will give you the side-to-side movement. Longer steering horns on stub axles and shorter servo arm = less steering Shorter steering horns on stub axles and longer servo arm = more steering Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlostcreek Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 Hi Giles, Thank you, I'll experiment with this, How`s it going with your project. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlostcreek Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 (edited) Small update of the 1: 48 Ford AA car John Edited April 23, 2013 by johnlostcreek 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlostcreek Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 A little progress with the car in 1: 48 Now I can work on installing the servo John 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted April 27, 2013 Author Share Posted April 27, 2013 John, that work is absolutely exquisite! Quite stunning! One observation - do you have any 'angle' on the steering arms? They look as if they might be parallel. It doesn't matter very much in these sizes, but full size, the arm pull in slightly to make the 'inner' wheel turn more than the 'outer'. But this is far, far better than my own stuff....! excellent.... I'm about to start on a little working gantry crane for loading.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlostcreek Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 Hi Giles , thanks. I am now going to experiment with steering . Thanks for the tip of the steering arm. When its better, now I can still change How nice that you start with a little working gantry crane for loading.please keep me informed about the construction, I am very curious John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlostcreek Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 Hi Giles, What you think about this It fits on a 20 euro cent John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LesG Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Hi Guys, I have been following this thread with interest as I want to use R/C for my locos, for my models as I work in 7mm the bodies will all be etched metal which may reduce the effective range at which I can work, Ideally I would need up to twenty feet operating range but could get by with ten feet. A question:- Are the body parts of the vehicles all metal & if so have you noticed any effect to the operating range is the ranged when testing without the body reduced when testing with the body fitted. Les. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted April 29, 2013 Author Share Posted April 29, 2013 Hi Les, Yes, the bodies are metal (die-cast) and I've certainly operated at ten feet... i dare say 20 wouldn't be any problem at all. I've never noticed any signal degredation.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LesG Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Hi Giles, Thank you for the info, I won't be able to have any road vehicles as my time period is pre 1900 and I don't fancy fitting radio control to an early traction engine. When I return from holiday I shall order the parts I need from the Deltang site and set it up with some ordinary AAA batteries in an LNER Smplex petrol shunter which looks like a garden shed on wheels. Then if successful I can then sort out rechargeable batteries. Thank you once again, Les. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted May 1, 2013 Author Share Posted May 1, 2013 A pleasure, Les. Also, to let people know - who don't want to trawl through 11 pages...... There's a ten page article on the RC trucks in Narrow Gauge and Industrial Railway Modelling Review issue 94, that's out at the moment. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TimC Posted May 1, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 1, 2013 Not much progress from me in the last month as illness, club business and boat jobs have taken precedence. Sailing for the next three months now so I'll get back on the case when I return later in the summer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted May 1, 2013 Author Share Posted May 1, 2013 Sorry about the illness - but lucky blighter for the next three months....... We just get the odd day or so on the Thames! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted May 3, 2013 Author Share Posted May 3, 2013 (edited) I've made a start on the crane - which will be for my next layout..... the idea is that it will load wagons (and invariably lorries too!) with a simple load (probably cable drums) from inside a factory, traversing over a siding, and lowering them onto the wagon. We'll see if it works........ The Gantry beam first - I wanted it out of brass (or similar) not plastic - and standard sections don't go up that large (and would probably be very expensive if they did......). The top and bottom chords of the beam were no problem, as I could get 7mm x 1mm brass off the shelf, but the thickest I could get 14mm (off the shelf) was 0.5mm - so I bought two of those, and sweated them together. That was accomplished very easily with just a pair of pliers to hold them together during the heating (having tinned both sides first). As always, on a job like this, I used a smallish torch, rather than an iron. Get plenty of heat in quick and do the job - rather than not enough and get in a mess....... I then stood the 14mm x 1mm web up centred on a cleaned up and fluxed 7 x 1 chord, with cut bits of solder placed to one side of the joint, and then ran the torch down the other, watching the solder melt and flow through (being careful not to over-heat it, and undo my good work on the 14 x 1 web!). This was repeated for the other chord - and in under 30 minutes - a nice finished beam emerged. A block of Gunmetal was then cut (I hadn't got any brass that size) and trued up on the lathe, then drilled for the four axles I used a slitting saw to make the 2mm slit to take the pulleys (Nigel Lawton 9mm Root Pulley) and milled out the top to take 2mm ID flanged bearings. The pulleys I bored out to take 1.5mm I.D. bearings Using silver steel for axles, the whole lot was assembled, and fortunately fits on the beam...... Hook to make next. Edited May 3, 2013 by Giles 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugsley Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 That's seriously cool Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 I agree with Pugsley. I'll be watching this with interest. From what we've seen so far I'm guessing that the travelling thing will be pulled by cables and fixed motors rather than be powered itself? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 nice work Giles.. I look forward to seeing further updates.. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted May 4, 2013 Author Share Posted May 4, 2013 I agree with Pugsley. I'll be watching this with interest. From what we've seen so far I'm guessing that the travelling thing will be pulled by cables and fixed motors rather than be powered itself? Absolutely - slower versions of the motor/gear units that I use on the lorries. A return pulley is fitted on the end of the gantry for the carriage travel, and the lifting cable is deaded off at the end of the gantry, drops down the first carriage pulley, round the hook pulley, back up and over the second carriage pulley! And across to the lifting motor. That way, when the carriage traverses, the load always stays level. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 I'll be watching closely too as this is something I would like to do. Of particular interest will be how you arrange the pick up of the waiting loads. I have some details from a 2mm layout that showed a gantry hoist that used I think only one motor to do the traversing and lifting. The hook would only lower/raise when the hoist stopped traversing. Can't think how now so I'll have to go and dig out the mag review to see. I can post the details here if of interest. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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