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Excellent Giles, it's looking good. The material you've used for the cable reacts well. It's not too stiff and hangs very much like the real thing, and the crane trolly (whatever it's called) moves well. I look forward to the progress of this project.

 

Rich

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Hi Giles,

 

Small progress in the process

 

create flanges for the wheels on the lathe

 

9335725719_46dda6b450_z.jpg
31 by johnlostcreek, on Flickr

 

9338517996_606cffa70c_z.jpg
33 by johnlostcreek, on Flickr
 

 

wheels and servo mounted

 

9335739455_6534aa31aa_z.jpg
37 by johnlostcreek, on Flickr
 
Have to connect  the servo to the steering rod
 
9344803432_aaa32e09f8_z.jpg
36 by johnlostcreek, on Flickr
 
 

 for the photo with the cab and the loading box mounted

9335741927_2210beed1d_z.jpg

39 by johnlostcreek, on Flickr

 

 

 

now start connecting: serfo receiver, motor and battery

then I hope driving the car

But all new for me

is there a plan to connect the wires.

 

 John 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

Edited by johnlostcreek
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The crane is basically finished, but I will now have to build a pair of powered sliding doors to sit behind the arch to 'reveal' the load ready to traverse out.

 

 

 

crane1_zps84d55cad.jpg

 

A view of the 'Zero Fleet winches' which keep the wire rope aligned at all times..... simple really!

 

IMG_0530_zps846f78e9.jpg

Edited by Giles
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Hi John,

 

If you mean 'charging' the Lipo, I used a 2.5mm mono audio jack plug, with a socket mounted in the cab floor - you can just make it out directly to the rear of the servo

 

 

 

IMG_6656-Copy.jpg

 

The advantage of this, is is you wire it according to the diagram (it is indicated as the horizontal black bars) when you plug the jack in, it disconnects power from the receiver, regardless of the position of the on/off switch.

However, there are lots of different plugs ou there to use - many smaller!

 

Mounting the Lipo itself, I simply used some epoxy resin, as I could easily cut it away and replace it it necessary.

 

Hope this helps!

Edited by Giles
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Hi Pete, yes - they do indeed. The motor/bolt assembly winds itself across at the same time as paying out or winding in the cable. The cable therefore always stays perpendicular to the drum, thereby making it a 'zero-fleet' winch, as opposed to a winch where the cable will naturally travel sideways as it winds on.

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Hi Giles, Thanks

 

What charger do you use 

 

John

 

I actually bought a Uniross charger from ebay but thre's quite a lot of choice - so long as you don't over-charge them

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GilesVery nice what limits the motor travel in either direction?Pete

I did buy micro switches (to mount at the end of the 'bolt' so it would cut out on over-travel) but it travels so slowly, and there is excess travel available anyway, that I didn't bother fitting cut-outs in the end.....

The motors are 12v, running on 1.5v andgiving me a lovely slow scale speed, and the switches are 'momentary' sprung to centre off, so there's not much danger in practice

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I don't know if this is any help, John......  The 'bolts' are drilled 3mm down the end to accept the motor shaft, which is then fixed in with milliput epoxy putty.  To prevent the motors rotating, there is a 'U' bracket of brass strip glued to the motor body which goes over the top of the motor, and over the face of the support bracket (on the other side), allowing the motor to travel sideways, but preventing rotation. Much simpler to do than to describe....

 

crane2_zpsc09fd7e7.jpg

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Small change in position of motor

He goes horizontal. so is not showing

 

9401498131_8c6d77a07f_z.jpg
42 by johnlostcreek, on Flickr
 
 
9404262002_8243d64d8c_z.jpg
40 by johnlostcreek, on Flickr

 

 

9401513269_ceff5d96bd_z.jpg
41 by johnlostcreek, on Flickr

 

 

I find one gearbox in my partbox. The gears I yoused.

Now i can make it for my car

 

9401517797_a903c8859c_z.jpg
43 by johnlostcreek, on Flickr
 
 
9404290340_3fc1933701_z.jpg
44 by johnlostcreek, on Flickr
 
 
this gearbox is 1:38 
 
later more
 
John 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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