21A Desperado Posted February 18 Author Share Posted February 18 13 minutes ago, F-UnitMad said: Feet, or metres? Feet. I wish it was metres!!😀 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 14 hours ago, 21A Desperado said: Feet. I wish it was metres!!😀 So 9ft x 6ft. You are not going to get a worthwhile standard gauge O scale roundy-roundy in that space. Even a shunting plank is going to be on the small side for modern era stuff. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
21A Desperado Posted February 19 Author Share Posted February 19 5 hours ago, F-UnitMad said: So 9ft x 6ft. You are not going to get a worthwhile standard gauge O scale roundy-roundy in that space. Even a shunting plank is going to be on the small side for modern era stuff. Well, thats the space I have available, so we will see what I can do. You never know, I may well do something worthwhile............ 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34006 Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 If not a Roundy,then maybe an "L" or a "U".If you used the diagonal you could get 10.8ft.Do what I did,draw out your desired boards on the floor,then put your track out on them,see how it goes.I used chalk on the patio............ Phil 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 3 hours ago, 21A Desperado said: Well, thats the space I have available, so we will see what I can do. You never know, I may well do something worthwhile............ Oh don't get me wrong, even small layouts are worthwhile in O Scale, I certainly didn't mean "don't bother", I apologise if that's how it came across. But just being realistic about what's possible. I have one of the smallest O scale layouts around just 4ft 8inches long including fiddlestick, but it's a pleasure to operate for half an hour or so of relaxing wagon shuffling! The size of O means it feels much more like being next to a real railway than the smaller scales.... 3 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
21A Desperado Posted February 19 Author Share Posted February 19 1 hour ago, 34006 said: If not a Roundy,then maybe an "L" or a "U".If you used the diagonal you could get 10.8ft.Do what I did,draw out your desired boards on the floor,then put your track out on them,see how it goes.I used chalk on the patio............ Phil Hi Phil, I did think of an L shape originally. Thats a really good idea, thank you. Trev 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
21A Desperado Posted February 19 Author Share Posted February 19 16 minutes ago, F-UnitMad said: Oh don't get me wrong, even small layouts are worthwhile in O Scale, I certainly didn't mean "don't bother", I apologise if that's how it came across. But just being realistic about what's possible. I have one of the smallest O scale layouts around just 4ft 8inches long including fiddlestick, but it's a pleasure to operate for half an hour or so of relaxing wagon shuffling! The size of O means it feels much more like being next to a real railway than the smaller scales.... Its OK, I didn't think you were being critical, just realistic. Its pointless me thinking I can get A scale version of Clapham Jn if in reality I can get one straight!! I am a tad concerned that my ideas are too grand! I really need to get planning! Trev Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
21A Desperado Posted February 19 Author Share Posted February 19 A little bit more painting of the Mullet tonight, concentrating on the decks and stanchions. Not sure if I am happy with the deck colour, maybe more work to do... I think tomorrow ill try and do the bogies, fit the instanters, air pipes and try and secure the final bits together once dry. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
21A Desperado Posted February 19 Author Share Posted February 19 I was trying to work to a picture from Flickr that was taken from the New Bank at Toton of DC967544, and I realised that the photo was one of mine! 🤪 Interesting to see the wealth of detail including faded 'Civil Link' branding, Carlisle Currock fox sticker, and a plethora of rust and wear. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ray H Posted February 20 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 20 (edited) Aside from a diagonal across the room to get the greatest length, I think you've either got to target a basically straight layout of around 9ft including the fiddle yard or a U shape with the curve being across the widest part to give you the best curve although. The L shape option has two variants: (a) using the longer room wall for the station/yard but with a fairly small fiddle yard, or, (b) the other way round with a longer fiddle yard but the station length will suffer albeit it could be partially built on a curve. Talking of curves you're unlikely to get much better than a 4ft radius and using either set track or home-made pointwork is probably your only option. I did once toy with the idea of a terminus with the buffer stop end largely "hidden" behind a building. Instead of the usual run round neck and point there would be a loco length sector plate to allow the loco to run round. The other end of the station could also be off scene again on a sector plate of traverser. Take a look at my garage based layout to see what I've managed to squeeze in without filling every space with track. Edited February 20 by Ray H To add the link 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted February 20 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 20 (edited) This is 10' 6" albeit built for small locos. Will give you an idea of what will fit though. Edited February 20 by Hal Nail 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
21A Desperado Posted February 20 Author Share Posted February 20 3 hours ago, Ray H said: Aside from a diagonal across the room to get the greatest length, I think you've either got to target a basically straight layout of around 9ft including the fiddle yard or a U shape with the curve being across the widest part to give you the best curve although. The L shape option has two variants: (a) using the longer room wall for the station/yard but with a fairly small fiddle yard, or, (b) the other way round with a longer fiddle yard but the station length will suffer albeit it could be partially built on a curve. Talking of curves you're unlikely to get much better than a 4ft radius and using either set track or home-made pointwork is probably your only option. I did once toy with the idea of a terminus with the buffer stop end largely "hidden" behind a building. Instead of the usual run round neck and point there would be a loco length sector plate to allow the loco to run round. The other end of the station could also be off scene again on a sector plate of traverser. Take a look at my garage based layout to see what I've managed to squeeze in without filling every space with track. Hi Ray Thank you for response - certainly food for thought there, and I think that I am going to have to downscale my initial thoughts on layout design! It does sound like an L or a U will be more sensible. I like that as I like shunting and to-ing and fro-ing, which is appealing. Thanks Trev Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
21A Desperado Posted February 20 Author Share Posted February 20 58 minutes ago, Hal Nail said: This is 10' 6" albeit built for small locos. Will give you an idea of what will fit though. Hi Alan, Thank you for dropping by. I will take a good look at your thread, and by the looks of it I need to stop and take a bit of a re think as I may have been a tad naive about size (Im sure my wife would confirm that or any of my fishing companions haha!) Best regards Trev Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerner Posted February 20 Share Posted February 20 To slightly correct Hal comment about my layout Blackney. The fiddleyard now sceiced is 3ft 6 and the main layout is 7ft 6. Sceniced fiddleyard Main layout Track plan 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted February 20 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 20 32 minutes ago, westerner said: To slightly correct Hal comment about my layout Blackney. The fiddleyard now sceiced is 3ft 6 and the main layout is 7ft 6. Sceniced fiddleyard Apologies - i picked up the length mentioned very early on. There are two big space saving ideas here: Firstly having one end of a run round loop "offstage" which obviously saves a point and the run in so somewhere around 2 feet. Plus the scenic fiddle yard concept which ive always liked since I saw it on Llangullo https://luggvalleyrailway.wordpress.com/llangunllo/ 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted February 20 Share Posted February 20 Just went through this thread. Pretty awesome wagon modelling. The micro layout suggestions are good. 0 gauge does require quite a bit of room and a roundy roundy is usually precluded. The G0G manual says that 4' radius is minimum (think 2' in 00) but, to me that is pretty unsatisfying. Mine is 21' long including a 5' fiddle yard and sits diagonally in my basement. No curves to speak of. Exhibited at Exporail last August. John 3 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
21A Desperado Posted February 20 Author Share Posted February 20 1 hour ago, brossard said: Just went through this thread. Pretty awesome wagon modelling. The micro layout suggestions are good. 0 gauge does require quite a bit of room and a roundy roundy is usually precluded. The G0G manual says that 4' radius is minimum (think 2' in 00) but, to me that is pretty unsatisfying. Mine is 21' long including a 5' fiddle yard and sits diagonally in my basement. No curves to speak of. Exhibited at Exporail last August. John Hi John, Wow thats an impressive layout, very nice indeed! Thanks for the kind comments about the wagons, Ive had a four or five year sabbatical and got into fishing again, now Im back getting glue and paint all over myself, hopefully getting better each time I build a new kit. Time to get the sharp pencil out, Im a traditional engineer, pencil and paper, no CAD for me! Thanks Trev 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted February 20 Share Posted February 20 54 minutes ago, 21A Desperado said: Hi John, Wow thats an impressive layout, very nice indeed! Thanks for the kind comments about the wagons, Ive had a four or five year sabbatical and got into fishing again, now Im back getting glue and paint all over myself, hopefully getting better each time I build a new kit. Time to get the sharp pencil out, Im a traditional engineer, pencil and paper, no CAD for me! Thanks Trev Lol, yes, me too. When I started, I built a lot of kits, Slaters and Parkside mostly. Even the few RTR I bought have been upgraded. Haven't done a kit in a while although I have a couple of friends kits on the shelf. I keep hoping he will fire me and take them on himself. John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
21A Desperado Posted February 20 Author Share Posted February 20 A bit of a stressful one tonight, trying not to bu**er the whole Mullet project up with a view to gluing it all together and fitting the bogies... A few other bits ticked off the to do list included: Fitting instanters Painting and fitting of air pipes fitting of bogies to chassis Also I found out to my sheer joy that I have mislaid four of my spring clamps, leaving me woefully short. It went OK, on a scale of one to ten, Id give myself five for effort..! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
21A Desperado Posted February 21 Author Share Posted February 21 Tonight I had a break from 'Project Mullet', and thought I would make a go on weathering another RTR wagon, this time one of my new Dapol TTA's. Nothing special, I did the usual, and took the wheels off and did them separately. Oh and Ive ordered another Brian (class 31!) - Brian the snail from the magic roundabout! - I know that was the nickname my friend (ex SY driver) gave them... Hopefully that will be here Friday. I need to get a Dutch one too, 5 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick G Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 Great weathering on the TTA. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
21A Desperado Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 8 hours ago, Nick G said: Great weathering on the TTA. Thank you Nick! Trev 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dan Randall Posted February 22 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 22 (edited) 12 hours ago, Nick G said: Great weathering on the TTA. Agreed, though it looks like it’s fitted with a vacuum pipe, rather than an air pipe? (The “A” in TTA stands for air brake). Air pipes are much thinner than vacuum pipes and have a red painted open/closed valve on the buffer beam (and a red painted connector at the free end). Edit: Like the ones in your Mullet build, above! It’s possible, I suppose, that these wagons were vacuum fitted when built and converted to air brake later (but perhaps leaving the vacuum pipe in place?). I would also expect the air pipe to be on the RHS of the buffer beam - that certainly seems to be the case on current wagons. Nonetheless, your weathering on this and your previous wagons is pretty impressive - keep up the good work please! Regards Dan Edited February 22 by Dan Randall Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
21A Desperado Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 4 hours ago, Dan Randall said: Agreed, though it looks like it’s fitted with a vacuum pipe, rather than an air pipe? (The “A” in TTA stands for air brake). Air pipes are much thinner than vacuum pipes and have a red painted open/closed valve on the buffer beam (and a red painted connector at the free end). Edit: Like the ones in your Mullet build, above! It’s possible, I suppose, that these wagons were vacuum fitted when built and converted to air brake later (but perhaps leaving the vacuum pipe in place?). I would also expect the air pipe to be on the RHS of the buffer beam - that certainly seems to be the case on current wagons. Nonetheless, your weathering on this and your previous wagons is pretty impressive - keep up the good work please! Regards Dan Hi Dan, I have noticed that the Dapol TTA's are fitted with an approximation of vac bags, and Im looking to cut them off and replace with air pipes, courtesy of my mate Antonio at West Coast Models. Thanks for the compliment about the weathering, its much appreciated. Cheers Trev 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
21A Desperado Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 A little weathering tonight with another Dogfish. Its not finished yet, more to do over the next few days. Trev 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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