ffayolle Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 Hi all of you, I'm a new member but sorry I speak some English. I live in France and I built some layouts on different scales (go to my website if you want more information about them). Currently, I'm building an O scale locomotive (Southern Railway G6 Connoisseur Models). And I have one trouble with the slaters wheels. They rust. Please help me!!! Best regards, Fabrice Fayolle Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meple Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 I suggest a light coating of WD40. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
66C Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 Hi Fabrice The tyres on Slaters wheels are steel and so will rust! They will corrode remarkably quickly if they are exposed to fumes from the acid flux used when soldering up a chassis or body from brass or nickel silver. The best advice I can give you is to use blackening solution as soon as they are out of the packaging, burnish and then very lightly oil. You may get other suggestions or better advice if you post on the Gauge O Guild Forum. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwrman Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 I had the same problem when I assembled a etched brass and white metal lomac wagon kit, I think I clean them with a dremel mounted wire brush then oil them. Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ffayolle Posted September 14, 2010 Author Share Posted September 14, 2010 Hi all of you, Thanks for your advices. I try with WD40 and I'm blackening the wheels Regards, Fabrice Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pint of Adnams Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 The advice to blacken the wheels (using 'Perma Blue Liquid Gun Blue' from Birchwood Casey for example) is good. I would not use WD40 because with time it goes 'sticky' and you will then collect dirt on the wheels - worse than rust. WD40 is not recommended near locomotive mechanisms. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceejaydee Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 The advice to blacken the wheels (using 'Perma Blue Liquid Gun Blue' from Birchwood Casey for example) is good. I would not use WD40 because with time it goes 'sticky' and you will then collect dirt on the wheels - worse than rust. WD40 is not recommended near locomotive mechanisms. Ok so a 'thicky' question - I take it that the use of the blue on the wheels does not interfere with the electrical pick up then? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 Hi Chris, No it does not effect the electical pick up at all, but it certainly gives the wheels and the treads a prototype look about them. Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceejaydee Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 Hi Chris, No it does not effect the electical pick up at all, but it certainly gives the wheels and the treads a prototype look about them. Martyn. Thanks Martyn; I've seen it referred to before with regard to rolling stock wheels but didn't know about its suitability for loco wheels. G6 chassis is looking good so far Fabrice; is it your first time building in etched brass and if so how easy are you finding the Connoisseur kit? Also I see that you've chosen to use the Slaters plunger pick ups too, is the chassis rigid or compensated? So many questions Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 These wheels have been blued using 'Perma Blue Liquid Gun Blue' from Birchwood Casey It was the first thing I did then put them away in a zip loc with a couple of drop of motor oil, until I was ready for them. As a matter of interest I have fitted Slater's Plunger pickups they were the last thing I fitted after painting the chassis, I used the axles and 4 engineers V blocks to get the chassis square. I bought the model as an unfinished project from an RM Webber earlier this year. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ffayolle Posted September 15, 2010 Author Share Posted September 15, 2010 G6 chassis is looking good so far Fabrice; is it your first time building in etched brass and if so how easy are you finding the Connoisseur kit? Also I see that you've chosen to use the Slaters plunger pick ups too, is the chassis rigid or compensated? So many questions Thanks for your comments. Yes, this is my first time building in etcher brass but not my first step (my last exhibition layout (Koonunga Junction) will be at ExpoNG). I think that this Connoisseur kit is "easy" but I'm not finished yet!!! Yes, I use Slaters plunger pickups. The chassis is rigid. Fabrice Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 Jim's kits (Connoisseur) are well know for being of good quality and most of his kits, be it loco's or rolling stock are well suited for beginers. Plus he's a very approachable guy who's always got time for his customers, usual disclaimer, just a happy customer. Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceejaydee Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 These wheels have been blued using 'Perma Blue Liquid Gun Blue' from Birchwood Casey It was the first thing I did then put them away in a zip loc with a couple of drop of motor oil, until I was ready for them. As a matter of interest I have fitted Slater's Plunger pickups they were the last thing I fitted after painting the chassis, I used the axles and 4 engineers V blocks to get the chassis square. I bought the model as an unfinished project from an RM Webber earlier this year. Pete That is a fine looking loco Pete; how much 'finishing' did you have to do and did you build the cab interior yourself as I seem to remember it saying on the Connoisseur site that no cab interior is included with this kit? More questions eh Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 Chris The model came 40% built so I completely took it all apart removed the excess solder then cleaned up all the brass and Nickel Silver and started from scratch. It came with motor, g/box, wheels, full cab, buckets, spades even a driver and fireman so it was just a case of building it up. Since taking these I have wired and fitted a TCS M1 DCC Decoder and it runs very well it should be better once it has been run in. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ffayolle Posted September 16, 2010 Author Share Posted September 16, 2010 Great model !!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceejaydee Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 Lovely loco Pete. What motor and gears have you fitted? Is it the Mashima 1833 and 40:1 that Connoisseur supply? How do you find the Slater's plunger pick-ups; are they as good as they are rumoured to be? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 Chris Yes I fitted the Mashima 1833 and 40:1 that Connoisseur G/Box, yes the Slaters Plunger are very good if not a bit fiderly to wire but achievable. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_S Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 Just out of interest - I see people mention that the gun blue does not effect the pickup? I was under the impression that you had to clear up/not blacken the rear face (which the pickups contact) and the face which interfaces with the rail as i have done here (if you can tell): Is this not the case? Could i have blackened all steel faces on the tyre and still had an electrical contact? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 Just out of interest - I see people mention that the gun blue does not effect the pickup? I was under the impression that you had to clear up/not blacken the rear face (which the pickups contact) and the face which interfaces with the rail as i have done here (if you can tell): Is this not the case? Could i have blackened all steel faces on the tyre and still had an electrical contact? Yep. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 Well I have not done that and the J71 and the NR150 I built for John Humphries runs fine the only thing I did do in both cases was to polish the the rims with wire wool in-between each application of the Gun Blue using a mini drill, Brian Daniels explained to me how he blues hit wheels in the same way. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
renovater 1 Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 My last order from Slaters arrived two weeks ago, admittedly it has been raining outside, but two weeks for the wheels to go rusty is pushing it a bit !! I have other steel items around which have never gone rusty at all after years of being in the same room !! All that and not a drop of acid flux in sight ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Mine go black within minutes of taking them from the packet. ... but then I do brush them all over with Carrs Metal Black ... I would prefer it if Slaters would do that for me and save me the trouble of hiding those shiny bits that simply do not look real. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
renovater 1 Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 ......but on the other hand those looking for authentic rusty wheels should be happy, there's alway's a positive side !! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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