BACKSCENE BOARDS

[theunborn]

Hi id like to hear other members views on baseboard backscenes what is the best wood to use,and how best to fix them to the baseboard ive now got to this stage on my small 6ft x 2ft shunting layout any info/advice much appreciated.

 

cheers

[Karhedron]

I used 4mm plywood and simply screwed it to the wooden framing that supports the baseboard. Not exactly high tech but it seems to do the job and has survived my eldest son accidentally treading on it on one occasion.

[28XX]

Even the best grade ply will show some grain unless you spend a lot of effort filling and sanding before painting. Consider MDF or hardboard, attach to a softwood frame with gripfix / no more nails so you haven't got nail heads to hide.

 

On a bigger layout you will have a joint to hide every 8 feet. I am considering using ice-blue plain cotton fabric with a tensioning system to keep the wrinkles out. I confess this is untried and entirely a mental puzzle at the moment.

[shortliner]

3 mm MDF, painted white at the bottom and blue at the top, with the centre blended , and a very dry brush of white painted on the blue and stroked sideways to give the high cirrus (mares tails) cloud associated with nice summer days - attached to the back of the board with 6mm Tee-nuts and bolts at approx 24" spacing. I do it this way so that the backscene can be removed for transpot.

[marc smith]

I tend to agree with the above posters.

Ply has the problem of wood grain, which you won't solve unless you paper over it first.

 

MDF or hardboard are better in that respect, but it all depends on what you want to use.

The thicker the MDF, the heavier your resultant baseboard.

Hardboard is lighter in weight, but can warp easily.

 

I have tended to use hardboard, but usually add a further, narrower strip of hardboard.

This helps a bit in keeping it rigid when in place.

 

Also, to protect the ends of hardboard, look out for that 90 degree compressed cardboard which is found in packaging - it's useful stuff!

 

Beware if using a photo-backscene.

I found they expand when wet, and contract again when dry -

resulting in them peeling off the hardboard or MDF!

Stubby suggested using "Pritt" permanent glue stick.

Haven't tried this yet, but I will do it next time.

 

As regards painting - white, with the top of the sky blending into a pale blue is fine.

If you don't fancy doing that, painting the backscene flat white (undercoat) is a good starting point, and is preferable to nothing, as it takes the eye away from what is behind the layout, and focusses it on the model itself.

 

Cheers

 

Marc

[theunborn]

Hi thanxs for the info peeps ive got a sheet of hardboard but thought it my be too flimsey and warp i was thinking of putting some 2x1 uprights then fix the hardboard to this then bolt the uprights to the main frame would like some comments on this idea please weight isnt a real problem as its got a permanent site.

 

cheers

[Claude_Dreyfus]

Hi thanxs for the info peeps ive got a sheet of hardboard but thought it my be too flimsey and warp i was thinking of putting some 2x1 uprights then fix the hardboard to this then bolt the uprights to the main frame would like some comments on this idea please weight isnt a real problem as its got a permanent site.

 

 

 

Certainly regular uprights will help with the integrity. We use hardboard, mainly due to is flexibility, however it is well worth painting both sides for sealing purposes. In addition, we are also in the process of covering the viewing side with backing paper, used for wall coverings.

[Kris]

Hi thanxs for the info peeps ive got a sheet of hardboard but thought it my be too flimsey and warp i was thinking of putting some 2x1 uprights then fix the hardboard to this then bolt the uprights to the main frame would like some comments on this idea please weight isnt a real problem as its got a permanent site.

 

cheers

 

You will get away with some quite thin baton to support the hardboard rather than 2x1. Using wood of this size would be massively over engineering. 12mm x 12mm should be fine, but if you are worried about twisting from this then strips of ply would form an equally stiff support.

 

 

 

[theunborn]

Certainly regular uprights will help with the integrity. We use hardboard, mainly due to is flexibility, however it is well worth painting both sides for sealing purposes. In addition, we are also in the process of covering the viewing side with backing paper, used for wall coverings.

 

Hello backing paper sounds a good idea didnt think of that id like to curve the backscence round hardboard seems so springy does anyone have suggestions on this ive decided to use hardboard as ive got a few 6ft lenths to hand.

 

cheers

[theunborn]

You will get away with some quite thin baton to support the hardboard rather than 2x1. Using wood of this size would be massively over engineering. 12mm x 12mm should be fine, but if you are worried about twisting from this then strips of ply would form an equally stiff support.

 

 

 

 

Hello thanxs for the reply plywood sounds good as ive got a few 4inch wide strips laying about so its hardboard and ply supports;)

 

cheers

[darren01]

HI

Model rail had a whole bit on doing back scence it was in =147.

I put up my ones using spray mount , i lined the 4mm Ply with thin linning paper first.

Then put up my backscene on to this, using wall paper paste i ruined one of my ID backscene:angry:

All the best

Darren

[Ron Ron Ron]

..... I'd like to curve the backscence round, hardboard seems so springy. Does anyone have suggestions on this? I've decided to use hardboard as I've got a few 6ft lengths to hand.

You could use that "bendy" MDF Flexi-Board.

It's 6mm MDF with parallel grooves cut across one side, leaving the other side smooth. It's designed to be used as a curved surface and although a little bit springy, it won't try to force itself back to straight like hardboard.

It's also sturdier than hardboard and will require very little framing or strengthening.

 

 

 

 

[jamie92208]

I would avoid hardboard for an exhibition layout. I used it on my current layout and over the years the corners of the backscenes have sufferred when the layout is being put away/stored a well as at shows. The upper edges of the boards have warped and the exposed corners have got damaged and gone what i call 'furry'. I used exterior grade plywood for some others and that is much better and doesn't warp. With some sanding down and a good coat of thickish paint as preparation the grain isn't a problem. However my colleague has painted a proper backscene in acrylics on top of the base coat. I will be using 3mm ply for my nbew layout as it will bend easioy around the corners. It is also less susceptible to damp conditions (Garden shed storage) than MDF.

 

Jamie