DLT's SR Locos - Lord Nelson Craftsman Kit

[Daddyman]

I think they look ok, but you're probably not going to see much of them when on the loco.

 

Cheers, Dave.

You'll know they're there, and many others will be inspired, so well worth it. Well done! 

[gz3xzf]

Hi Dave, Bogie is looking good, are you going to do pickups?

[DLT]

Dave, whose wheels are those?

 

Tim T

 

Hi Tim, 

They are from Alan Gibson range, see here:  http://www.alangibsonworkshop.com/   

3'7" dia 10 spoke LSWR , ref 4843 to be precise.

 

You'll know they're there, and many others will be inspired, so well worth it. Well done! 

 

Thanks very much.

 

Hi Dave, Bogie is looking good, are you going to do pickups?

 

I'm not planning to fit pickups on the bogie, it can be more trouble than its worth!  The best place for extra pickups will be the tender.

 

All the best, Dave.

[DLT]

Working on getting the bogie mounted, but nothing to show at the moment.  Once that done I can complete the chassis.

Cheers, Dave.

[DLT]

I've just found another source of prototype information; 

Brassmasters have taken over the Martin Finney range of kits, one one of them is the Drummond L11 class. (effectively a K10 with a longer firebox and coupled wheelbase)  The kit instructions can be downloaded from the website, and contain all sorts of detailed prototype drawings and dimensions, answering a lot of questions.

I wish I had come across this before!  The page is:  http://www.brassmasters.co.uk/lswr_sr_drummond_l11_4-4-0.htm

Cheers, Dave.

[georgeT]

Thank for the info on the brassmasters drawings Dave they have answered a few questions on my k10 build...

[DLT]

This build seems to be taking an awfully long time, latest distraction is the Winter Olympics and the doings of Lizzie Yarnold, Eve Muirhead and co.  But at last I'm getting towards the stage where I can complete the K10 chassis and get it working!

 

I had to sort out the chassis fixing and removal method before I could go any further.  Due to the small diameter of the boiler, it was impractical to have a cutout underneath to drop the motor through, there would be nothing left!  So the motor has to slide out through the firebox.  This means that the chassis has to slide backwards for removal, with the gearbox coming into the cab, necessitating the cab interior being a removable sub-assembly. 

Cab in progress:

 

 

Slid into place:

 

 

Removed:

 

 

The cab splasher boxes are way too wide, but this of course is an 00 compromise.

 

And here is the whole thing as currently:

 

 

I will illustrate the bogie mounting arrangements later.

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[Horsetan]

....Brassmasters have taken over the Martin Finney range of kits, one one of them is the Drummond L11 class. (effectively a K10 with a longer firebox and coupled wheelbase) ....

 

Would you try to turn the L11 kit into a high-class K10? 

[PaulRhB]

Nice idea having the cab interior as a seperate unit for access, I'll file that idea in the grey matter for future reference thanks

[DLT]

Would you try to turn the L11 kit into a high-class K10? 

 

Hmmm, had that thought myself, but not lingered on it.  On paper it should be possible, just a matter of removing one scale foot from the firebox and the frames between the drivers. A "Cut & Shut".

However I very much doubt it would be that simple!

 

Nice idea having the cab interior as a seperate unit for access, I'll file that idea in the grey matter for future reference thanks

 

Thanks Paul, its not the first time I've adopted the method, but in this case its essential.

Cheers, Dave.

Edited February 20, 2018 by DLT

[DLT]

Bit more work done on the cab interior assembly.  Here is how it now looks, 

 

 

And the assembly upside down, showing the locating strips that align it on the frames.

 

 

At the other end, the front of the chassis slides under this retainer.  

 

 

The bogie as currently, with sliding strips each side of the slot:

 

 

And showing how it fits.  The vertical tube is soldered to the chassis, with a 10ba nut on the other end.  A screw fits through the tube to retain the bogie. (I will shorten the tube later)

The springy wire (22thou NS) sits loose in the square tube soldered to the chassis and keeps the alignment, preventing the bogie from rotating.

 

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[RAY NORWOOD]

Fantastic work Dave. Are going to put a spring between the Bogie top and the chassis.

[DLT]

Fantastic work Dave. Are going to put a spring between the Bogie top and the chassis.

 

No, as there won't be room.  I've arranged it so that the gap between chassis and bogie will be minimal, to prevent the bogie lifting.  There will be enough clearance to accommodate gradient changes if there are any.

 

Cheers, Dave..

[RAY NORWOOD]

No, as there won't be room.  I've arranged it so that the gap between chassis and bogie will be minimal, to prevent the bogie lifting.  There will be enough clearance to accommodate gradient changes if there are any.

 

Cheers, Dave..

I was thinking of weight on the front, the spring will balance that up. Im sure you have something in mind to solve that.

[DLT]

There's very little weight in the front end as it stands, and I will be packing as much lead around and above the driving wheels as possible.

So there shouldn't be any balancing issues, and I'm not foreseeing problems in the trackholding department (famous last words...) 

There's some room under the bogie for extra weight, which will help to keep it in line.

Cheers, Dave

[DLT]

Sorry, just testing

[DLT]

Last job before chassis assembly is the pickups.  Once again, my go-to solution is conventional wipers on a pcb plate, rubbing against the backs of the wheels.

The rather spidery appearance of this one is due to the general layout between the frames, and the need to get the wipers past the chassis springs.

The front wipers pass through a narrow slot between the brake assembly fixing point and the front axle, requiring the addition of insulating tubes to prevent any unwanted contact.

 

 

 

Next job is blackening and fitting the wheels.

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[DLT]

The three main chassis components chemically blackened, and waiting for a quick waft of Halfords Matt Black before having the wheels fitted.

 

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[DLT]

Wheels are on, but no further progress to report I'm afraid, its too ****** cold in the workshop!

Edited February 28, 2018 by DLT

[DLT]

 its too ****** cold in the workshop!

 

And there was a foot of snow against the door last time I looked.

[John M]

Hi Dave

 

I am thinking of using a similar bogie pivot design for an Irish broad gauge 4-4-0, any idea of the minimum radius your K10 is likely to traverse?

 

What chemical blacking agent have you used? I got an almost battleship grey finish on brass with Carrs Metal black on a 1:20.3 scale (45mm gauge)  loco pony truck

The three main chassis components chemically blackened, and waiting for a quick waft of Halfords Matt Black before having the wheels fitted.

 

IMG_2461 small.jpg

 

Cheers, Dave.

[DLT]

Hi Dave

 

I am thinking of using a similar bogie pivot design for an Irish broad gauge 4-4-0, any idea of the minimum radius your K10 is likely to traverse?

 

What chemical blacking agent have you used? I got an almost battleship grey finish on brass with Carrs Metal black on a 1:20.3 scale (45mm gauge)  loco pony truck

 

Hi John,

Not sure of minimum radius requirement yet, but it goes through my pointwork (pushed by hand) at 30inch radius with no problem.  If that's not enough I can simply file the slot a bit wider.

Blackening is by Carrs for brass.  I scrub it with old-fashioned scouring powder (Ajax, Vim) and an old toothbrush first, and then give it a bath in an ultrasonic cleaner before blackening.

 

My apologies for lack of updates; the snow has gone from here, but Mrs. DLT and I have both been struck down with a sickness bug, and haven't felt like doing anything!

 

Cheers, Dave.

[DLT]

I'm back at the workbench and, Dear Reader, it works!  The K10 has just run under "it's own steam" for the first time.

Dave.

[DLT]

K10 is progressing well, but no pictures to show.  Its running nicely and I'm adding various bits.  Need to get started on the tender, and thats another story...

I looked back to see how I did the 700 tender a while ago and realised the pictures had gone in the Photobucket debacle.  I don't remember using PB for RMweb, and can't think why I did. 

Anyway I've restored the photos by uploading them directly, and (if anyone's interested) the 700 starts on page 22 here:  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos-k10-from-a-very-old-kit/page-22

Cheers, Dave.

[DLT]

Another marathon photo session see all images now uploaded to the Forum instead of via Botophucket.  So that's W-class on page 1, U-class from about page 10 and the Adams Jubilee from about page 20.

I think that covers it.

Cheers, Dave.