DLT's SR Locos - Lord Nelson Craftsman Kit

[RAY NORWOOD]

Hi Dave

It looks like a good challange Dave, knowing you, you will enjoy building this kit. Waiting to see the progress.

[hayfield]

The etches look very Jidenco.....

 

 

Snap that was my initial impression

[Graham_Muz]

It's not Jidenco as far as I know but a company called  EJ Sharp at least that is what I built my K10 from below.


I have no doubt that Dave will make a better job of it than me. I am still trying to locate my copy of the instructions they must be somewhere as I know Dave said they were missing from his kit.

[bike2steam]

Long ago in the days when I was still modelling Southern, I had a Jidenco K10, but as it was about 20/25 years ago, and I wasn't such a confident soldering constructor I got an old friend, Kevin Trim of Dorset Kits to do the job, a lovely loco since sold on.   

[DLT]

I think there's a lot more to this kit than a Jidenco.  I was always told (though I've never handled one myself) that Jidenco were more "parts for the scratchbuilder" than they were "kits" as we think of them. 

Its the same kit that Graham built, but I have to admit I've never heard of EJ Sharp before. 

As for the instructions, I've got one double-sided sheet with a diagram of the loco etchings, and very basic instructions for loco and tender construction.  However there is no diagram of the tender etchings, so I'm convinced there's a bit missing.

Here's a scan of the box lid:

 

 

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[hayfield]

I think there's a lot more to this kit than a Jidenco.  I was always told (though I've never handled one myself) that Jidenco were more "parts for the scratchbuilder" than they were "kits" as we think of them. 

Its the same kit that Graham built, but I have to admit I've never heard of EJ Sharp before. 

As for the instructions, I've got one double-sided sheet with a diagram of the loco etchings, and very basic instructions for loco and tender construction.  However there is no diagram of the tender etchings, so I'm convinced there's a bit missing.

Here's a scan of the box lid:

 

K10 Box Scan small.jpg

 

Cheers, Dave.

 

DLT

 

The Jedinco kits were as full as most, requiring wheels, motor and gears + couplings of course, from memory not much in the way of slot and tab, but very nice brass turned parts, whitemetal castings were OK as well. They were just difficult to assemble, hence the word scratch aids were often used

[Horsetan]

You say:

 

.... Jidenco.  ....

  

 

He say:

 

... Jedinco ...

Let's call the whole thing off.

[DLT]

DLT

 

The Jedinco kits were as full as most, requiring wheels, motor and gears + couplings of course, from memory not much in the way of slot and tab, but very nice brass turned parts, whitemetal castings were OK as well. They were just difficult to assemble, hence the word scratch aids were often used

 

Thanks John, that clarified things.  I haven't actually had a Jidenco, I was only going on what I had been told.

Cheers, Dave.

[Pebbles]

E.J.Sharp and Falcon Brass were previous owners of the Jidenco range, certainly the box is typical of the packaging used by Falcon Brass.

[DLT]

E.J.Sharp and Falcon Brass were previous owners of the Jidenco range, certainly the box is typical of the packaging used by Falcon Brass.

 

Aha, very interesting.  So maybe this IS a Jidenco kit?  Looking at the Falcon Brass website, http://www.falconbrassworks.com/list.php?range=LSWR  they list a K10 kit, LK76, as "currently unavailable", although the etches are available.

Thanks for the info, Dave.

[N15class]

I think there's a lot more to this kit than a Jidenco.  I was always told (though I've never handled one myself) that Jidenco were more "parts for the scratchbuilder" than they were "kits" as we think of them. 

Its the same kit that Graham built, but I have to admit I've never heard of EJ Sharp before. 

As for the instructions, I've got one double-sided sheet with a diagram of the loco etchings, and very basic instructions for loco and tender construction.  However there is no diagram of the tender etchings, so I'm convinced there's a bit missing.

Here's a scan of the box lid:

 

K10 Box Scan small.jpg

 

Cheers, Dave.

There was a K10 from a company called LSWR who were located around Early or Lower Early. South of Reading.

[DLT]

The design of the kit appears to be based on the Skinley drawing, so marking out a set of frames should be fairly straightforward.  Comparing the drawing with the stated dimension in the Russell book and in the recent Railway Modeller article has helped with the critical dimensions, like position of axle holes etc.  Then the general shape can be taken from the drawing.

A strip of brass is cut from the end of the sheet and soldered to the sheet double thickness, and then marked out.

 

 

 

Next its out with then piercing saw and files.

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[Horsetan]

There was a K10 from a company called LSWR who were located around Early or Lower Early. South of Reading.

 

OT, but I seem to remember they also produced a whitemetal kit for the D15 4-4-0 and a couple of others.

[DLT]

OT, but I seem to remember they also produced a whitemetal kit for the D15 4-4-0 and a couple of others.

 

Me to.  I think they did an etched T9 as well.

[georgeT]

Hello Dave, l will be watching with lots of interest on how you go about the build, l found the drawing in some paperwork in the cupboard l was clearing out and l thought this looks like a project for 2018, good luck with the build Buddy keep the pictures coming...

[DLT]

After some hacking with a piercing saw, (and breaking several blades) filing to shape and drilling for axle holes, screwed spacers and brake hangers; it looks like this:

 

 

The coupling rods are Gibson 9foot, and one was soldered to the chassis as a drilling guide.

 

Separated and cleaned up, the axle holes still need carefully opening out to fit bearings.

 

 

Temporarily screwed together, just to see what it looks like!

 

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[PaulRhB]

Your patience with a fretsaw is as good as the results

[RAY NORWOOD]

Hi Dave.

I am surprised you are using screwed spacers. Or are only temporary.

[DLT]

Your patience with a fretsaw is as good as the results

 

Not a lot of patience I'm afraid, keep breaking blade as I'm in too much of a hurry.

 

Hi Dave.

I am surprised you are using screwed spacers. Or are only temporary.

 

The screwed spacers are temporary, to hold everything in place while the actual spacers are soldered in.  Those spacers have done several locos.

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited December 23, 2017 by DLT

[Tony Teague]

Excellent work Dave, I would not have known where to begin!

 

Tony

[RAY NORWOOD]

Hi Dave

I thought they would be

[timbowilts]

Hi Dave.

I am surprised you are using screwed spacers. Or are only temporary.

Please enlighten me as to why screwed spacers are disliked? Several manufacturers used them over the years, indeed Markits still make them.

 

Tim T

[DLT]

I have nothing against screwed spacers, and have used them on several occasions.   I guess I like a permanent soldered chassis, but at times I have soldered the screwed spacers in.

 

After the Christmas lay-off I am back onh the chassis.  Spacers are being soldered in, and the motor and gearbox are assembled.

 

Progress photos to follow.  Cheers, Dave.

[Horsetan]

Please enlighten me as to why screwed spacers are disliked? Several manufacturers used them over the years, indeed Markits still make them.

They don't always give a broad area of support in the way that a flat or L-shaped spacer can. Also, they can occasionally loosen over time.

[DLT]

Permanent L-shape spacers are now soldered in and the screwed spacers removed.

 

 

 

I have added some outline spring detail.  You just need enough to be able to see the shape through the wheel-spokes, so it doesn't need to be highly detailed. 

 

 

 

Springs are all made from left over etches.  The straight sections strips of nickel-silver are from the frame of the fret around the gearbox etches. 

The leaf-springs are actually etched balance weights left over from previous kits, like this one:

 

 

The reason I have these left-overs is that I prefer to make the wheel balance weights from black Plasticard, as its self-coloured.

 

Finally, speaking of the gearbox, its a Highlevel Roadrunner+, with a Mashima 1424 motor.

 

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT