Lancaster Green Ayre - The Barn Owls have returned.

[Jol Wilkinson]

38 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

https://www.nielsmachines.com/en/emco-sold-emco-unimat-3-vertical-fine-feed-attachm.html

 

There is available a worm / pinion fine feed attachment for the vertical drill / mill of the Unimat 3.

 

It feeds 1.0mm. per revolution and, in my experience, works extremely well; absolutely essential if you wish to do any milling or controlled depth drilling.

 

John Isherwood.

John beat me to it.

 

I also have that fine feed attachment on my Unimat milling unit and have found it is ideal for controlling vertical feed..

 

 

[jamie92208]

2 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

https://www.nielsmachines.com/en/emco-sold-emco-unimat-3-vertical-fine-feed-attachm.html

 

There is available a worm / pinion fine feed attachment for the vertical drill / mill of the Unimat 3.

 

It feeds 1.0mm. per revolution and, in my experience, works extremely well; absolutely essential if you wish to do any milling or controlled depth drilling.

 

John Isherwood.

Thanks very much for that John. I recognise that.  There is one in the toolbox that came with the lathe.  I think that may solve the problem.  I will have a look this afternoon. 

 

Jamie

[jamie92208]

I've just had a look through Laidlaw-Dickson and thankfully there is a photo showing how the attachment is mounted so I will have a go.  I will also try a short test run of the 2P chassis with  the new motor gearbox.  I hopefully won't need to do any more milling. 

 

Jamie

[cctransuk]

57 minutes ago, jamie92208 said:

Thanks very much for that John. I recognise that.  There is one in the toolbox that came with the lathe.  I think that may solve the problem.  I will have a look this afternoon. 

 

Jamie

 

Have you got the manual that comes with the Unimat 3? Absolutely invaluable!

 

Also,

https://onlineshop.oxfam.org.uk/the-book-of-the-unimat/product/HD_301246002?pscid=ps_ggl_OOS - Performance Max - ROAS (Books)_&crm_event_code=20REUWWS08&gad_source=4&gclsrc=ds&gclsrc=ds

is well worth having.

 

Using these two, and starting from zero machine knowledge, I scratchbuilt from brass and steel a 4mm. scale BR chassis for the Airfix Booth (Rodley) PW crane. The working stabilising beams are milled from steel, and have working brass / steel bottle-jacks at their ends.

 

It was a baptism of fire but, together with a scratchbuilt brass, double-motored DELTIC chassis, complete with cardan shafts and prototypical roar from the transmission, I quickly learned most of the machine skills that I still use for my model-building.

 

John Isherwood.

[jamie92208]

2 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

Have you got the manual that comes with the Unimat 3? Absolutely invaluable!

 

Also,

https://onlineshop.oxfam.org.uk/the-book-of-the-unimat/product/HD_301246002?pscid=ps_ggl_OOS - Performance Max - ROAS (Books)_&crm_event_code=20REUWWS08&gad_source=4&gclsrc=ds&gclsrc=ds

is well worth having.

 

Using these two, and starting from zero machine knowledge, I scratchbuilt from brass and steel a 4mm. scale BR chassis for the Airfix Booth (Rodley) PW crane. The working stabilising beams are milled from steel, and have working brass / steel bottle-jacks at their ends.

 

It was a baptism of fire but, together with a scratchbuilt brass, double-motored DELTIC chassis, complete with cardan shafts and prototypical roar from the transmission, I quickly learned most of the machine skills that I still use for my model-building.

 

John Isherwood.

Thanks again John,  yes I have that book and have found a photo that shows how to mount the attachment. 

 

Jamie

[JeffP]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234038554270?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=iSOPBDgNQPq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=SR2mx3FtSk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

Others are available.

[lezz01]

I've just had a proper look at photos of your unimat 3 and I'm amazed to see that it has no vertical stop on it even my Dremel workstation has a vertical limit stop on it, what were they thinking? Even the Unimat 1 has a better system than that. I was looking at buying one of those unimat 3s and didn't go with it as I thought I would try and save up for a better one I'm so glad that I didn't as there are better tools on the market than the unimat 3. If you have the attachment I suggest you fit it.

Regards Lez. 

[jamie92208]

57 minutes ago, JeffP said:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234038554270?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=iSOPBDgNQPq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=SR2mx3FtSk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

Others are available.

Thanks again, yes that was in the folder of documents that came with ticks on the parts list for the accessories that the original owner had bought.   Very helpful indeed.     Just out of interest here are three photos of the lathe as it is now set up and the tool box and contents.  I am amazed at what is there.

 

The vertical move mechanism is on the right with an Allan key in it.   I have thought about the lack of an end stop and this is what I've thunk.  There is actually only a few millimetres of vertical movement using the lever.  It seems that you set the height with the clamp in the pillar then I would now use the allan key.  One turn is 1mm and there are 20 sub divisions.   There is a worm gear that engages with a pinion cast into the lever mechanism so it is a robust stop.   I just need to find a way to make the divisions show up a little more clearly.

That's the top of the tool box and the first drawer.

 

And the bottom drawer with the dividing head at the front.   I thin I did well and over the coming years will learn more about it's capabilities.

 

Thanks again for all the help and advice.   

 

Jamie

[JeffP]

Got some good stuff there.

[jamie92208]

3 hours ago, JeffP said:

Got some good stuff there.

If I knew what it was all for it would be good.  However I've learned a lot in the last week. 

 

Jamie

[lezz01]

I would be looking for a local model engineering group Jamie. Even if you don't formally join it they will be able to help you sort out all those yummy extra attachments you have. There will be one somewhere near you using a schools metalworking shop. As far as I know the French are just as nutty and we are about steam. I would say you did very well with that lathe when you brought it it has just about everything you will ever need and a few things you'll never use. You could for instance build a 5" gauge loco or a larger scale traction engine with what you have there. Maybe you could find an evening class if you can't find a local ME group.

Regards Lez. 

[Dave Hunt]

I was about to comment on the vertical fine feed for the Unimat but I now see that it has already been discussed.

 

Dave 

Edited November 3, 2023 by Dave Hunt

[jamie92208]

Just now, Dave Hunt said:

I agree with John, the fine feed attachment for the Unimat vertical mill/drill adapter is a good investment. Taking small and even cuts is made easy.

 

Dave 

It's now fitted.  I just didn't know what it was. 

 

Jamie

[Dave Hunt]

Sorry Jamie, I have amended my earlier post.

 

Dave

[jamie92208]

52 minutes ago, Dave Hunt said:

Sorry Jamie, I have amended my earlier post.

 

Dave

Worry not Dave. 

 

Jamie

[jamie92208]

Good afternoon to one and all.pethaps I may tap into your vast collective store of wisdom.  I am having trouble getting my 2P to run smoothly p

  With just the motor gearbox and driving wheels installed the motor will power it still forwards but not backwards and is reluctant to start.  I''very tried it with both grubscrews slackened and it runs smoothly in both directions. However once I tighten the grubscrew on the worm the problem appears.  It is appreciably slower in reverse. The  chassis runs smoothly without binding.  I've tried putting the worm in different positions but no joy.  The photos show the set up from above and below.  It is just the same with or without the rods connected.  Any ideas would be appreciated.  I've used bushes to keep the gear wheel central.

[MrWolf]

Do you have any end float in the armature shaft? 

You may also have the meshing slightly too tight.

[lezz01]

Ok so to start with it looks like the grub screw is pushing the worm out of true it's a common problem with worms and worm wheels. The easiest answer it to remove the screws completely and fix them with loctite 601 or the modern equivalent as this will self centre the gearset on the motor shaft and axle. However this then brings in the issue of them not being easily removable should the need arise. The solution to this is to mark where the grub screws bare on the motor shaft and axle and then file a flat on both of them you then tighten the grub screws until they make contact and then back them off a bit and then fix them in place with the aforementioned loctite. The worm and worm gear should now run true and stop the binding. There will be a little back lash type movement in both directions but the gears will now run true on the motor shaft and axle and still be removable after touching a hot soldering iron to the grub screws thus braking the bond.

Regards Lez.          

Edited November 12, 2023 by lezz01

[jamie92208]

40 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

Do you have any end float in the armature shaft? 

You may also have the meshing slightly too tight.

By end float do you mean the amount that the armature can move backwards and forwards.  Ithe worm was initially tight against the gear vpbox so I moved it forward a bit and it came a bit freer. 

 

39 minutes ago, lezz01 said:

Ok so to start with it looks like the grub screw is pushing the worm out of true it's a common problem with worms and worm wheels. The easiest answer it to remove the screws completely and fix them with loctite 601 or the modern equivalent as this will self centre the gearset on the motor shaft and axle. However this then brings in the issue of them not being easily removable should the need arise. The solution to this is to mark where the grub screws bare on the motor shaft and axle and then file a flat on both of them you then tighten the grub screws until they make contact and then back them off a bit and then fix them in place with the aforementioned loctite. The worm and worm gear should now run true and stop the binding. There will be a little back lash type movement in both directions but the gears will now run true on the motor shaft and axle and still be removable after touching a hot soldering iron to the grub screws thus braking the bond.

Regards Lez.          

I think I have some loctite.  So may well give that a try.  However there is only one grub screw. So I could dril and tap a hole on the other side.  I think it's a BA thread and I have the ne essay taps up to 8BA.

 

I was thinking of taking the motor out of the frames tonight and trying different alignments till I get a sweet one.

Thanks very much for the advice. 

 

By the way Lezz I've got a Kirtley 2-4-0 that a late friend built for me.  I could photograph the cab are for you if you wish. 

Jamie

[lezz01]

16 minutes ago, jamie92208 said:

By end float do you mean the amount that the armature can move backwards and forwards.  Ithe worm was initially tight against the gear vpbox so I moved it forward a bit and it came a bit freer. 

 

I think I have some loctite.  So may well give that a try.  However there is only one grub screw. So I could dril and tap a hole on the other side.  I think it's a BA thread and I have the ne essay taps up to 8BA.

 

I was thinking of taking the motor out of the frames tonight and trying different alignments till I get a sweet one.

Thanks very much for the advice. 

 

By the way Lezz I've got a Kirtley 2-4-0 that a late friend built for me.  I could photograph the cab are for you if you wish. 

Jamie

By both grub screws I mean both the one in the worm and the one in the worm gear.

Yes mate the photos would be nice especially if you put a ruler in the shot across the top of the rear splasher.

Regards Lez.  

[jamie92208]

I went back over to the shed after tea and took the motor gearbox unit out.  It was still sticking so I removed the gear wheel and found that the motor was still reluctant to start when free.  I suspect that there is either a damaged coil or a commutator problem.  I'll have another search through the box of motors tomorrow.

 

Jamie

[jamie92208]

Well I have been back to the shed a couple of times today in between rodding out the kitchen drains and grease trap.   Rural life in France is full of interesting tasks.   I found a motor and gearbox that would fit and that ran sweetly.   One problem there was no grub screw for the main gear.  I discovered that it was tapped 6BA and all I had was a load of 3/4" cheese head bolts.    So this evening I went back over and hacksawed a bolt to length then cut a slot in the end with a junior hacksaw.   The slowly reassembled the loco chassis testing it at every stage using crocodile clips.   Eventually it ran sweetly so I got it on the rather short test track and this was the result

Yippee.  Much more to do but I'm a happy bunny now.   I also got chance to photograph my 2-4-0 for @lezz01

For some reason the flash wouldn't work on my camera.   I'll have to read the manual again.  I hope that these help.   If you need another area photographing no problem.

And another

And one more.

 

Jamie

 

[lezz01]

Thanks Jamie. Sadly that's a 156 class not an 800 class so it doesn't help me the 800 class has a square shaped rear splasher and bigger wheels. Never mind it's still a lovely looking loco and one of my favourite Kirtley locomotives. 

Regards Lez. 

[Dave Hunt]

The 4-4-0 chassis is looking good now Jamie.

 

Dave

[jamie92208]

I had a bit of spare time in the shed today and happened to glance at the shelf of shame that contains coach and NPCCS kits in various states.  That was a mistake   as I found a Lanky Kits kit for an L & Y family saloon.  this could very easily have gone through Green Ayre en route to Morecambe or Heysham so I had bought the kit.   This afternoon I unpacked it and spent a bit of time  working out where I had got to.

 

This is it after I had replaced a missing wheelset and soldered a bearing in.

And this is the interior.

 

Obviously it needs a bit of work but I found that I had accurately marked out the roof and I found various parts that need adding to the body.   I will progress it.   I need to work out how to attach the roof and to make it removable.   My idea is to put some scrap brass strips across where the lamps go, solder some 8BA bolts in them that protrude through the roof then drill and tap the Whitemetal lamp castings so that I can use them as nuts to hold the roof on.   The interior will need a floor and some seating.   I also need to check whether I've got the correct paints for the coach body. 

 

I did test run the chassis on the layout and it seemed to run OK once I had oiled a rather rusty centre axle.

 

I will have a play tonight.

 

Jamie

 

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