49395 Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 Now showing on Parkside's website for pre order http://www.parksidedundas.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_LONDON___NORTH_EASTERN_RAILWAY.html#aPC83 Roll on end of March... Mike 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45568 Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 Lovely build and review PMP, one question, where did you source your s/s bufferheads please? thanks, Peter C. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nerron Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 Received my two this morning.Great service from Parkside Dundas-6 days to Oz.Will post pics when built. Ron. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest notascoobie Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 Lovely model of an interesting prototype. But, don't you just hate it when that happens..... Ah well Regards, Vernon 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 Just had one arrive. Looks ok, some minor flash, it comes with moulded handrails and door handles !! The same problem is on the Chivers Pigeon Van Why do they still do this ?? Does anyone know of a source for LNER White lettering " Return to Newmarket " decals ? I presume the Cambridge version is in Yellow ??? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted April 26, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 26, 2011 Just had one arrive. Looks ok, some minor flash, it comes with moulded handrails and door handles !! The same problem is on the Chivers Pigeon Van Why do they still do this ?? Those of you clever enough to fit separate handrails and door-handles are probably capable of removing the moulded on detail you dislike. On the other hand, when I get to the business end of the GWR horsebox from the same stable (sorry) I find I am expected to add individual steps which could easily have been moulded, and add wire bits. Will I bother to try, or will it just be another item that never reaches the layout? And how am I supposed to paint something that is already glazed? I want a piece of functional, sensible rolling-stock, which will resist and survive regular handling - not a museum-quality model to sit in a showcase. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 Its no real problem to remove the actual handrails . The result is of course, the potential damage to surrounding detail on the bodywork. The Horsebox isnt too bad the Pigeon Van was a real problem due to very long horizontal rails. It would be much easier for the bodies to have the handrail positions marked with a hole or dent . You can then fit a handrail or glue a piece of Plastic rod onto the marks. Simples Glazing will be added to mine after painting the body sans roof . The Roof will be added last Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 And how am I supposed to paint something that is already glazed? Maskol or indeed masking tape cut to size can be used for that but as Mick says its easier just to leave the roof off until the body is painted. Its easier to add detail than remove it for the reason Mick said and i'd agree to preferring dimples for handles on modern kits otherwise the things dont stand up against modern RTR. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuartp Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 I'm with Ian (Oldddudders) on this one, moulding them on just leaves all your options open. Personally I usually shave them off but I can see how a significant proprtion of Chivers and Parkside's markets would either not be worried that they were moulded or would see it as a bonus. They're guaranteed straight for a start. If the Cambrian SR brakevan had them moulded on I would probably have left them as they were a complete pain to do from wire; the ends are joggled rather than the normal staple shape, and even with a jig I threw away more than I fitted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poor Old Bruce Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 I'm with Ian (Oldddudders) on this one, moulding them on just leaves all your options open. Personally I usually shave them off but I can see how a significant proprtion of Chivers and Parkside's markets would either not be worried that they were moulded or would see it as a bonus. They're guaranteed straight for a start. If the Cambrian SR brakevan had them moulded on I would probably have left them as they were a complete pain to do from wire; the ends are joggled rather than the normal staple shape, and even with a jig I threw away more than I fitted. Me too!. The Parkside Midland/early LMS Brake Van needs lots of wire handrails. It is probably to ease production of the masters but I do wonder why their positions are marked with pimples rather than dimples. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted April 27, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 27, 2011 While my post was sincere, I did not expect much support, actually! For the avoidance of doubt, having just read a rather ugly thread about rivet-counters elsewhere on RMWeb which has rightly just been locked, I am all in favour of those who produce kits making them as authentic as possible - but wish they would consider the not-so-skilled to the extent that we can also end up with a model that looks "good enough" to pass muster with the currently rather good RTR stuff. A case in point. The GWR horsebox has two rather small windows either side, very close together. The inside of each window has been rebated (?) to allow near-flushglaze to be inserted from inside, and a generously-sized piece of glazing is supplied. But why not provide one rebate covering both windows, thus allowing much easier installation of one piece of glazing, as has been suggested after painting, but before the roof is added? I believe the finished result would be indistinguishable, but the success rate would be higher, leading to more orders.... EDIT As for the glazing installation, of course when I look again there is a partition inside which partly covers the rebate on one window. So one would have to leave that out until the painting was done, the glazing applied etc. Thus the order of construction in the kit instructions begins to need a bit of a re-think if you want your model painted. Traditionally, plastic kit advice has been to paint before construction. I spray-painted the chassis frets of about a dozen plastic wagon kits matt-black in a batch operation - only to find I spent twice as long scraping paint off to get the adhesive to work during assembly. Life is a learning process! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Max Stafford Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 Ian. I learned a long time ago to treat instructions as a useful adjunct to my own instincts rather than a rigid edict. You'll get the hang of this game eventually Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pennine MC Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 . I learned a long time ago to treat instructions as a useful adjunct to my own instincts rather than a rigid edict. A few years ago there was a series of 'real men don't...' T-shirts. One read 'real men don't ask directions', we obviously need one that says 'real men don't read instructions' Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 It would be much easier for the bodies to have the handrail positions marked with a hole or dent . You can then fit a handrail or glue a piece of Plastic rod onto the marks. Simples No not simples. This is a kit to produce a working model. If you wish to modify that kit and improve on the detail then that is up to you. Many would see that as messing with the kit as it is intended - and some would not see it as an improvement. Plastic kits like this are aimed at the average modeller who probably only wishes to run an example of the otherwise unobtainable wagon. Adding to or improving on a kit is starting to move into fine scale detailing. Not everyone has an interest in such things or feels capable. If Parkside start producing "scratch aids" I for one will stop buying from them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 No not simples. This is a kit to produce a working model. If you wish to modify that kit and improve on the detail then that is up to you. Many would see that as messing with the kit as it is intended - and some would not see it as an improvement. Plastic kits like this are aimed at the average modeller who probably only wishes to run an example of the otherwise unobtainable wagon. Adding to or improving on a kit is starting to move into fine scale detailing. Not everyone has an interest in such things or feels capable. If Parkside start producing "scratch aids" I for one will stop buying from them. Sorry the comment was about adding simple straight handrails not a total rebuild !! hardly finescale by any stretch of the imagination. As I said earlier if you dont want to add wire handrails, then just add a piece of plastic rod to cover the marks/dimples for the handrails , I wouldnt think many people would struggle with that and a lot easier/simpler than building the rest of any kit I know off. I cant imagine many "average" modeller would build one of these or similar kits , they are obviously more complicated than a simple Wagon or Van kit. I wasnt aware that Parkside kits were aimed at the "average" modeller ?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 Sorry the comment was about adding simple straight handrails not a total rebuild !! hardly finescale by any stretch of the imagination. As I said earlier if you dont want to add wire handrails, then just add a piece of plastic rod to cover the marks/dimples for the handrails , I wouldnt think many people would struggle with that and a lot easier/simpler than building the rest of any kit I know off. I cant imagine many "average" modeller would build one of these or similar kits , they are obviously more complicated than a simple Wagon or Van kit. I wasnt aware that Parkside kits were aimed at the "average" modeller ?? But I think that adding a piece of plastic is just as complicated and as an unnecessary addition to the basic kit as adding a metal handrail. As for being within the average ability I believe most (if not all) Parkside kits are easy builds if you like putting together bits of plastic. I think they are the equivalent of the Airfix kit but with the additional detail obtained by a modern design/moulding etc. Taking a perfectly good kit and degrading it just to please those who wish to add "that bit extra" should not be the course of action. On the contrary by setting an example of just how much better a kit looks with extra detailing we should be encouraging others to have a go. By example not by compulsion of those who are perfectly satisfied with the kit as a whole product. My same argument applies to RTR detailing - it doesn't have to be done - there are plenty who are very satisfied with RTR as it is - yes even Lima/Triang/old Hornby. That doesn't stop those who wish adding and refining their models if that is what brings pleasure to them but asking for a perfectly good kit to be reduced to something that is impracticable and incomplete for some would be like saying lets not supply RTR locos with motors or wheels just because some modellers out there would prefer to substitute their own choice. I understand your desire to make a kit "finer" in detail but you have that option, if the kit is supplied requiring me to make my own handrails then that kit is incomplete and next to useless to me (and I suspect a great number of other Parkside customers) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pennine MC Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 But I think that adding a piece of plastic is just as complicated and as an unnecessary addition to the basic kit as adding a metal handrail. 1. Cut plastic to length. Lay in position. Run solvent into join. 2. Drill holes for handrail (assuming they're only dimpled or whatever). Cut (over)length of wire. Make first bend neatly (easy). Make second bend neatly and in correct position (not so easy). Make sure it's not fouling anything at the back, and trim off if necessary. Slot into position and glue. Oh and if it's a handrail with 'T' junctions (as on a BR standard brakevan for instance), you can chuck soldering into the mix as well. Still no big deal, but I know which I think is more complicated ..., if the kit is supplied requiring me to make my own handrails then that kit is incomplete and next to useless to me (and I suspect a great number of other Parkside customers) Most kits dont include paint, or transfers, or couplings, or tiebars that will withstand more than ten minutes handling for that matter. Does that make them 'next to useless' as well? Dont get me wrong, I dont personally mind if handrails are moulded on or not, but I do think these comparisons are getting a tad silly now. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 My reworked one ready for Primer New Handrails, Door handles. MJT Vents and new Buffers which will be fitted after painting 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Max Stafford Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 "Make second bend neatly and in correct position (not so easy)." Cheers Ian, I'm glad it's not just me then! Mick, that's a nice job - I'll probably add handrails to my own in any case. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 Ready for varnish then glazing and done. Detail added to the underframe 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 Glazing was a bit of a pain. There is no inside top ledge for the bottom Toilet window to fit into . The Top Fanlight is a seperate moulding which is very thick , I presume the idea is to allow it to be modelled open ? It doesnt woek due to thicknes to allow a rebate for the glazing. It would be much better moulded as one complete window IMHO. Lightly weathered 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted July 15, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 15, 2011 I just thought I 'd let you all know that I've nearly finished mine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quite quick for me really! It needs a few details(inc. couplings) and lettering/weathering, bit of paint detail, but I'm quite pleased and would like to thank you all for the tips and inspiration. It's EM. It's also the first time I've put on roof strips. The vents are spare LNER ones from MJT I think. Afraid I was too lazy to do proper handrails on this one; maybe later? I also didn't put in the Groom's fittings Anyhow, with a bit of lead in the 'stable' instead of a couple of horses, it runs (excuse racing pun) quite well, but won't come first. I plan to fit a DCC decoder with Horsetan's new stable sound set up. It also includes a small aerosol supply function for appropriate smells. A straw poll of modellers has resulted in me having to rein in my ideas and not use a styrrup pump or include the nose-bag from Shawplan/Lazerglaze or an Ascot heater from Knightwing . You too should bridle your enthusiasm for such extra detail and not get saddled with extra expense for such trivial detail, unless you wish to jockey for position in the race for realism at the DERBY Show Cheers (and hoorahs) P @ 36E (Original Pic replaced after 'adjustment' to brake gear as kindly pointed out by David the big Cheese. (Thanks matey). 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisf Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 It shows what can be done when you get the bit between your teeth ... Seriously though, nice one! Chris 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bigcheeseplant Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 I just thought I 'd let you all know that I've nearly finished mine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You have the part of the brake linking the two v hangers the wrong way up it should be the same way as the photo above, if the brake lever is pulled down it would release the brakes rather than putting them on. David 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted July 15, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 15, 2011 Just whipped up some enthusiasm (technical term I'm told). It's taken so long I've put on weight around my girth and my grooming has gone to pot. At least I didn't kick the bucket or jump ahead of myself. However I did mange to graze my leg on the workbench. Schooling has also been neglected and I'm trying to remember how to dress(age) my self suitably to go outside. Jim Kana (sic) gave me some advice on the brake gear so I hoofed it down to the store and nosed around for some tack(s). Better stop now as I'm getting fet lock in my hands. Cheers, P @ Doncaster Racecourse (not 36E) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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