shortliner Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 http://cs.trains.com...52/2017770.aspx and http://www.modelairp...d-markings.html May help - Also http://www.modelrail...read.php?t=1156 http://www.redroomod...sing-decals.php http://www.powaystation.org/Article%20Applying%20Decals.html Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 Spocky - also found this = http://luthart.nl/contents/nl/d349.html Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted January 19, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 19, 2011 2 and a bit hours later and several coats - it looks no different. I can still clearly see the outline of the transfere. Does Micro Sol only work with certain types of transfere? Several coats? I often only use 1 and leave at least overnight. I only use more than one application, if I need the transfer to "mould" to anything underneath. Cheers, Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matador Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 This from a Pro, first apply the blue sol on the Model then slide the decal in place put the Model in a warm oven 100 degrees yes I know Degrees (I live in the USA) after 15 minutes apply the red solvent DO NOT TOUCH THE DECAL do not touch with any object or try to re arrange. Several coats may be necesary following the oven treatement each time unless your Decals are like cardboard this will work. Question what kind of decals are you using?. DC Snr A Brit in the USA This Model was decalled with this method. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roddy Angus Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Matador Do you mean 100 degrees centigrade or Fahrenheit? Roddy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
54Strat Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 2 and a bit hours later and several coats - it looks no different. I can still clearly see the outline of the transfere. Does Micro Sol only work with certain types of transfere? If you can still see the outline of the transfers, it may be that you've applied them to a matt surface and an effect known as slivering is occurring. Transfers on a glossy surface adhere much better and the carrier film looks almost invisible. I use a bit of gloss varnish just to the areas needed, then finish with a coat of matt varnish. Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Steven B Posted January 21, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 21, 2011 54strat & PMP thank you for your helpful replies. I feel it is the thickness of the water transfer material that is at fault. I am now trying to source a provider of 1 x sheet of Microscale 00 gauged scale 97304 numbering for the Bachmann 32-777Y Model Rail limited edition Network Rail if anyone can help me! The following works for me in N Gauge with transfers from Fox, Model Master and Microscale: The more gloss the paint finish the better the end result - either gloss paint/varnish or a coat of Johnsons Klear do the trick. Cut out the transfer (using sharp blade), using a paint brush dab some warm water onto the transfer and leave for a minute or three Using a paint brush, apply the microset (blue bottle) to the area the transfer will be applied to. Once the transfer has freed itself from the backing sheet take the transfer to the model whilst still on the backing sheet Push transfer off backing sheet and onto model. Position in correct place "paint" over the transfer with Microsol (red bottle). The more lumpy the model the more you should apply - ribs on N Gauge containers need a lot for example). Leave model over night - the Microsol will evaporate and the transfer should be left in place. If not, apply a bit more Microsol. If I'm in a bit of a rush (or just want to apply more transfers in a single session), then I'll hurry things along a bit by using a combination of brush, cocktail stick and cotton bud to push the softened transfer into the nooks & crannies. If you're leaft with a ghost around the edge of the transfer then the paintwork you applied it too wasn't shiny enough. I can't see you being able to get Microscale (US printed) transfers for a British model unless you commission them yourself... Happy modelling. Steven B. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 Hello Spocky, (Edit: I am presuming when you say you can still see the transfer, you mean the transparent carrier film around it). At the risk of repeating myself, as I have written this before on RMweb: You can remove the carrier film from transfers by carefully softening the film with white spirit applied with a fine paint brush*. The film will turn to a gel-like constistency and can be flicked off the painted surface with the fine paint brush.This method works on Modelmaster decals, though only if the transfer is on a gloss surface and has dried for 24 hours first. I would leave the carrier film on very small text - unless you are very brave! You can't use this method, as far as I know, with Fox transfers as the carrier film is, I believe, under the the lettering etc. It might be worth trying it out with you particular make of transfer. *The transfers need to be protected with varnish straight after the white spirit has vented off. All the Best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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