ozzyo Posted October 2, 2011 Author Share Posted October 2, 2011 Hello all, forgot to add that there are about 50 bits of wire in the above post. OzzyO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 Bloody lovely mate!!!!! You know how much I like my mechanical lubricators. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 2, 2011 Author Share Posted October 2, 2011 Ah, looking at all that pipework explains why you swear so much! Good days work though. kev. Me I never F@@i@g swear, when have you heard me Fu@@i@g Swear, not in a month of Bl@@dy Sundays. Thanks mate. See you on Mon. OzzyO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 6, 2011 Author Share Posted October 6, 2011 Hello all, after Steve did a lot of looking at photos he found out that the drain pipe from the lubricator box on 5099 ran under the footplate and down the rear outside of the cylinder. Not like on some of the other Castles where it goes through the hanging plate, or over the footplate. The drain pipe joined up to the drain pipe from the lubricator box This is where the fun begins as the pipe has to run from the body to the frames, you can see the cut in the pipe just below the hanging plate in this photo The A.T.C. conduit pipe in place along with the oil pot for the rear valve guide and the piston rod. getting the oil pipes for these could be a bit of fun With the cylinders in place, and the oil pot for the front valve guide in place. In this photo you can see how the drain from the mechanical lubricator box runs down the back of the cylinder, I've just got to work out how I'm going to get the oil pipes to run from the body to the frames? The A.T.C. conduit at the cab end, just waiting for some small bore tube to come from E.E. so I can connect all the pipes together OzzyO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 Blooming superb mate. Any one who thought every thing was standard on GW locos was mis lead m'e included. This is the level of detail that drew m'e to O gauge and this cannot be replicated by RTR locos what ever price or stable there from. As you all know the castles are my favourite locos ( I mean what else is there ) and looking closely at pictures like I have I don't think I would ever have two locos the same. You might not notice it straight away double chimneys aside but when you start to look up Close that's where all the differences are. Can't wait to see it now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 12, 2011 Author Share Posted October 12, 2011 Hello all, it's been a while since I last posted, helping set up the exhibition and then the exhibition and a day out as well, (you missed a good day Steve). The small bore tube arrived from E.E. it says that it's 0.6mm internal dia. and it is. I was expecting it to be about 0.65mm internal, but not a lot to drill out so that it would fit 0.6mm wire. This is what I wanted it for the joints on the A.T.C. conduit, the two joints between the cab and the cylinders The joint between the cylinders and the front junction box After we had looked at a lot of photos of the oil pipes, this is what we came up with. The first two pipes in place The third pipe took a bit of sorting out, in that it would have to run from the footplate to the cylinders. Not that much of a problem in 12":1' but in 7mm it could be due to us splitting the locos at the footplate. So I decided to use brass wire rather than copper wire for this and mount it to the cylinders, with a short stump to fit in the oil box union The next thing to decide on is do I finish the frames and then get them up and running (I think all that's left to do is clean and paint them), or go back to the body? I think that it'll be the frames as I can have them running in while I'm working on the body. OzzyO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 Brilliant Mate, I just cant wait to see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 17, 2011 Author Share Posted October 17, 2011 Hello all, back to big bits after pipe work etc. the inside motion bracket is a new casting to me so I had a bit of thinking to do as I had the front and rear reversing shafts in place along with the intermediate reversing rods The castings as supplied on the left, and after a bit of cleaning up on the right, you can see that I have fitted a length of brass rod between the bearings (not good) From below front From below rear From the side, modified to the bottom This was when I realised that my first idea would not work, the levers did not line up well enough for me The same with the running plate dropped in place So it was back to the drawing board. Heat 'no' white metal to much risk, so I thought I'll punch it out, not a chance, the brass punch just turned into a Z shape, so in to the acetone two days later not a chance. The 'glue' that I had used was Loctite 290. The shear strength is 10 Newton meters (not sure what that is in imperial for it's sheer strength). So I ended up drilling the rod ends so that I could fit some stub rods in the the ends, and this is what I ended up with Al I have to do now is fit the rear end to the weigh shaft, but that will be after painting the frames and the motion bracket. One of the next jobs will be moving the restraining rod for the motor and gearbox. OzzyO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 That bit looks complicated. This is when modelling becomes model engineering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 17, 2011 Author Share Posted October 17, 2011 If you want to down load any of these photos to keep the grand-kids or the kids away from the fire please do so. OzzyO. PS. don't take life to seriously as you'll never get out of it alive and always live today as it's you're last, because one day it will be!!!!!!!!! Hello all, I've just been going back through some of my posts And have noticed that some of you have downloaded some of these photos. I hope that they do keep the kids away from the fire. OzzyO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 That bit looks complicated. This is when modelling becomes model engineering. Sorry I don't think that this bit is complicated after all it's only eight bits of metal, but if I had thought about it I could have used six bits of metal. It may look complex but the parts don't move, all of these parts are just for the overall look of the loco. I could have left it like this and hoped that my client would not have noticed as it was behind the front splashes. I do not think that is right and you have to try and get the build right when you can. The difference is clear when you look at this photo, all I want to do is try to make my locos look like what they should. I don't believe that Mec. lub. box's should just be put on the running plate with the pipes running to nowhere, on the real thing all the pipes went to some thing, that's why I do go that little bit more to try and get that bit to look right. More so on Ex. G.W.R. locos when most of them didn't carry them before B.R. days. OzzyO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 I'm looking forward to seeing how much of that bracket casting is visible once the boiler is in place as it does look like a very nice bit of work. The pipe runs for the lubricators certainly make a difference to the look of a BR Castle though I may have difficulties putting the brackets in on a 4mm one! I'll have to find more photos of my 2800 actually to see if it had anything.. The vac pipe is going to be enough fun! Keep up the excellent and informative updates . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 That bit looks complicated. This is when modelling becomes model engineering. Your not wrong, with this amount of detail it is more like model engineering than just making a model of an engine. I just can't wait to get my hands on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 That bit looks complicated. This is when modelling becomes model engineering. Hello Jeff, if you mean the whole build I suppose that you could say that it is complex. Boarding on model engineering. Hello Craig, this is about what you can see with the boiler in place If the 4mm Castle is the Ex Mitchell kit I would expect the motion bracket to be etched on the footplate former like this This was standard practise on Malcolm's kits for the Stars, Castles and Kings, with a bit of work with some bits of wire to represent the bolts and bending the rear end down it should look OK in 4mm. OzzyO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 Hello all, the motion bracket with the intermediate reversing rods in place, this will be painted before it's fitted into the frames The boiler fixed to the footplate, to do this I use a 1/2" self tapper through the saddle in to the smoke box at the cab end I use two 3/16" self tappers. Along with the screws I also use epoxy on the saddle and boiler rear The steam pipes in place, they do obscure some of the oil pipes but that is how the real ones were The next jobs will be the ejector and it's pipe work then the hand rails. OzzyO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 Looking real good mate. 3 weeks to go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 25, 2011 Author Share Posted October 25, 2011 Hello all, I've put a question in questions hints and tips. Can any one help me with a set of instruction for the Finney 7mm curved frame Bulldog 4-4-0 kit No. L7/23. TIA OzzyO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 26, 2011 Author Share Posted October 26, 2011 Hello all, the end is now in sight on the body work, the ejector in place along with it's pipe work The front of the ejector pipe with the drain pipe in place The hand rail in place at the ejector end The hand rail and the superheater lubricator cover in place The fireman's side hand rail in place, as you can see I do the hand rails in three parts when the loco has an ejector exhaust pipe As above The smokebox door in place along with its fittings. The hole on the L/H side of the smokebox door ring is for the steam lance cock. The third part of the handrail I had to have about four go's at till I was happy with it So what's still to fit on the body, whistles and shield, the inspection covers in front of the top feed (going to make a punch / form tool for them), chimney (this will be fitted after gritblasting) and safety valve bonnet (this is fitted after painting). OzzyO. PS. I've had an offer for a set of the instruction for the Finney Bulldog, but thanks for any one who had a look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 29, 2011 Author Share Posted October 29, 2011 Hello all, in one of my last posts I said that I would have to make a form tool /punch for the boiler covers, well this is what it looks like in it's second form, it's made from silver steel. But I have not hardened it yet? This was the first one that I punched from .005" brass shim. It took the shape pretty will but it had spilt along the top curve and had a dip in the top surface as well So I tried some more, The four on the left were with the first tool, the first two were not annealed, the second two were. The last two the sheet was annealed and using the second tool. I think that it maybe better to use copper shim for this kind of job! The state of the lead sheet after I had punched them out, I also found that it was better to have another sheet of lead under the top one The two in place The front end about finished The blisters in place along with the safety valve bonnet, this is not fixed in place yet The cover for the union joint for the for the lubrication pipe to the superheater cover? The next lot of photos should be of finishing the frames. OzzzyO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted October 29, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 29, 2011 Smashing job Oz - I'm extremely glad that I'm not into 0 Gauge as I suspect you could bankrupt me in double-quick time with temptations like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 Paul Every thing looks spot on safety valve bonnet and all. This will probably be one of the most well detailed true to life models ever done, I know I'm biased but I think it's true. Really looking forward to getting my mits on it Two weeks today and counting Start chilling the Adnams Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 30, 2011 Author Share Posted October 30, 2011 This will probably be one of the most well detailed true to life models ever done, I know I'm biased but I think it's true. Start chilling the Adnams Hello Steve, I don't think that I would go quite that far, as we have not got the full inside valve gear, but from the outside I think that we have found most of the differences in the Castles. OzzyO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 True but from the outside you can't see this. All the detail you can see is there and accounted for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 31, 2011 Author Share Posted October 31, 2011 Hello Mike all, come up to 7mm and let me help you spend your kids inheritance. Well here she is just out of the grit blaster, getting the rear R/H side driver in place was a bit of a faff as I had not made the speedo removable, that will be a small job for to-day. One small fitting problem, the front drivers fouled the sanding leavers behind the front slashers, they don't now After I have this ready for delivery on 12/11/11 (12/12/12, next year is the last time this date will appear for 100 years). I have been thinking (that's bad for me) about doing a list of the differences that I have picked up during the build of this and other Castles in the past. Would any one be interested in me posting it on here? OzzyO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonesome_whistle Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 I have been thinking (that's bad for me) about doing a list of the differences that I have picked up during the build of this and other Castles in the past. Would any one be interested in me posting it on here? OzzyO. Absolutely! I've been impressed by the information posted on here with regards to the Castles and their myriad little differences. A summary would be very useful and most gratefully received. Interesting that for all the subject's perceived popularity, there isn't really that much published material on GW locomotives (aside from the RCTS series). It's a pity the Peto books only got as far as three small ( in numerical terms) classes. A fine looking Castle you have there by the way! Cheers, Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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