ozzyo Posted August 18, 2012 Author Share Posted August 18, 2012 Hello all, thanks for the idea about latex gloves, but I don't think that they'd last me 5 minutes as I'd end up melting them on to my finger tips. Back on to the build, a few messages back I mentioned about the two centre girders being too short and having to remake them, The part on the right was what set the alarm bells ringing. The new ones marked out for cutting out. The first angle cut out, not to bad only one bust blade. The block finished to all sizes. You can see the small cut out to clear the bottom angle. The block split down into the eight individual parts. Doing them in the block should mean that all the brackets are identical. Four of the brackets in place. The same? brackets with the small bottom angles in place. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 Beautiful work OzzyO, How did you keep them all together to be able to cut them? Golden B@lls. ATB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 18, 2012 Author Share Posted August 18, 2012 Beautiful work OzzyO, How did you keep them all together to be able to cut them? Golden B@lls. ATB. Aha Grasshopper, you seek knowledge, it's the use of the silver metal and the magic hot stick that never burns down. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 You soldered them, Fantastic job Master would never have thought of that. I've learnt something today ATB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 19, 2012 Author Share Posted August 19, 2012 Hello all, not as much to report today. The starting point for this update is the jig for filing the angles on the ends of the girder extensions. At first I thought about making this in two parts, but when I got the fist half made I gave it a try and it worked OK so the second half never got made. The first one set up on the jig and held in the vice. The last one after filing to shape, still in the vice. All twelve (twenty four) extensions filed to shape, all that remains to do to them is the remove the top and bottom flanges from the rear of the extensions and to split them into their individual parts. To give you an idea of the size, the extensions are 6mm high by 15mm long. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 Great perseverance my Friend. Looking good. Seeing 1501 at the Valley today has made me want one even more!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 19, 2012 Author Share Posted August 19, 2012 Hello all, as you can see I've changed the title a bit, as when Steve and myself were talking about doing this we were told that it was impossible to do it. Now I'm this far on with the job I do (all ways have) thought that it's possible. OK it's a lot of work to do! In my last post I showed this photo of the twenty four extension pieces for the girders, you can see that I have cut the top and bottom of the beams for the part that will fit into the beams that are fitted to the table now. When I had cut them all out I thought that the part that would extend from the outside of the deck plates would be too short so I redid the top and bottom cuts, as you can see. On these ones I decided to cut off the top and bottom flanges with the piercing saw. This worked OK apart from when I bust the saw blades. Why is that some blades want to cut straight and others want to cut to the left or right. Maybe I should stop buying cheap blades? The first three in place, as you can see all of them are on the right hand side as I'm R/Handed and I was using a R.S.U. to fit these. The first twelve in place, some of them may need a bit of tweaking to get them just right. The next three in place. All twenty four now in place, a bit of work maybe needed on some of them but it's starting to look good. And from above. The underside of the top lap plate, a bit closer than the last ones. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 Super Smashing Great. Much better mate. Carefull with the picture texts apparently they can cost a fortune. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 Tis a thing of engineering beauty, Very nice work Ozzy O Master. Atb Grasshopper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 Hello Matey, It's certainly starting to look the part, structually it looks very sturdy. And once the rivet detail is added it will really come to life . ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 Hello Matey, It's certainly starting to look the part, structually it looks very sturdy. And once the rivet detail is added it will really come to life . ATB, Martyn. Could'nt agree more Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold farren Posted August 20, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 20, 2012 truly inspirational makes you want to go and build a turntable for ones self.!!! i have one question i take it you have already worked out how you will get it all to work and was wondering about the way it will stop and line up with the track ever time and was wondering if this will be shown on your blog in time Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 truly inspirational makes you want to go and build a turntable for ones self.!!! i have one question i take it you have already worked out how you will get it all to work and was wondering about the way it will stop and line up with the track ever time and was wondering if this will be shown on your blog in time Hi There This Turn table is for my Ranelagh Bridge project. I have used the turntable before in a small engine she layout I built for display in a museum. I had the motor linked up to a small Gaugemaster hand held controller, The motor is very responsive and has great slow speed control so I could drive the table and stop to align with the track. I have heard of and a freind is currently having something built which will automatically stop fully aligned with the track. Once this is complete it will be great to see it in operation and more to the point how much it costs. For the time being I will stick to driving the turn table my self either with the above gaugemaster or by linking the motor to a DCC chip & with my Gaugemaster Prodigy wire less controller. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 Why is that some blades want to cut straight and others want to cut to the left or right. Maybe I should stop buying cheap blades? I've assumed that this is quite usual to get the odd duff one? Maybe it was in the Guy Williams loco books that I read some blades won't go straight whatever you do and are best discarded? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 20, 2012 Author Share Posted August 20, 2012 I've assumed that this is quite usual to get the odd duff one? Maybe it was in the Guy Williams loco books that I read some blades won't go straight whatever you do and are best discarded? The ones that won't cut straight normal snap on me, due to me trying to drive them to cut straight!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 All I have is a junior hacksaw, try keeping that straight. You pro's dont even know you'r born, you'r cosseted in fancy tools i tells ya, now when i were a lad in pit, ect ect. Grasshopper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 All I have is a junior hacksaw, try keeping that straight. Something like that should cut straight unless you've gone at it like a mad man and bent the blade ;-) You pro's dont even know you'r born, you'r cosseted in fancy tools i tells ya, now when i were a lad in pit, ect ect. Can't claim to be pro (Ozzy might qualify?) but I am glad, being from Barnsley, tharra mist arton avina gudarn 'pit as a lad. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dan Randall Posted August 20, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 20, 2012 Seeing 1501 at the Valley today has made me want one even more!!! Steve - If you're refering to the Hawksworth pannier, I share your desire for one too! It also happens to be one of Dave Sharp's (Modern Outline Kits), favourite locos and I contacted him recently to suggest its future inclusion in his range of kits. There's a link here that shows some kits that are currently under consideration.... http://www.modernoutline.co.uk/modern_outline_004.htm Unfortunately, the 15xx isn't one of them (yet), but if enough people lean on Dave, you never know your luck. Regards Dan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 Hi Dan I have spoken to Dave about the 15xx as well. I know he's been up to the SVR to measure it. I would bite his arm off for one or two. Seeing it in lined black makes me want one even more. 1504 would be mine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dan Randall Posted August 20, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 20, 2012 Hi Dan I have spoken to Dave about the 15xx as well. I know he's been up to the SVR to measure it. I would bite his arm off for one or two. Seeing it in lined black makes me want one even more. 1504 would be mine. If Dave has been to the SVR with a tape measure, that's very encouraging news Steve - here's hoping! (Apologies to OzzyO for the thread hijack and looking forward to further progress on the JLTRT Hawksworth tender. I have one on the go myself, but have found the instructions a little vague. Seeing what you do with yours ought to be a great help I reckon). Regards Dan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 21, 2012 Author Share Posted August 21, 2012 Steve - If you're refering to the Hawksworth pannier, I share your desire for one too! It also happens to be one of Dave Sharp's (Modern Outline Kits), favourite locos and I contacted him recently to suggest its future inclusion in his range of kits. There's a link here that shows some kits that are currently under consideration.... http://www.modernout...outline_004.htm Unfortunately, the 15xx isn't one of them (yet), but if enough people lean on Dave, you never know your luck. Regards Dan Hello Dan, all, I noticed in the forthcoming kit list that David mentions B.R. standard class 6 (Dukes), now does me mean class 6 Clans, or class 8 as I have heard that he's thinking of the Duke (class 8P). Why is it when I put in 8 bracket I get this 8) ? confused of BiF OzzyO. PS. I also see he's now asking for a deposit on the 9F. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 21, 2012 Author Share Posted August 21, 2012 Hello all, I've been trying to work out the angles and positions for the out rigger beams for the carrying wheels. Using paint this is what I came up with. It looks like the apex of the outside of the inside beams will meet on the C/L of the TT. So that's a starting point. The next job will be to do a better drawing with the sizes on it to work to. I don't like scaling off drawing but some times you just have to. There is one thing though the angles will be the same no matter what the size of the drawing will be. So you may not see much progress while I get all this sorted out. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Hello Dan, all, I noticed in the forthcoming kit list that David mentions B.R. standard class 6 (Dukes), now does me mean class 6 Clans, or class 8 as I have heard that he's thinking of the Duke (class 8P). Why is it when I put in 8 bracket I get this 8) ? confused of BiF OzzyO. PS. I also see he's now asking for a deposit on the 9F. I spoke to Dave about the deposit and he is not accepting them at the moment. Due to the sad death of his father a few of the new projects have been delayed. I know the 9F is the next kit to come out ( cant wait ) and that the Duke or Brit will probably follow. Ive got my name down for a Duke, Not exactly accurate for Ranelagh Bridge but this is one loco you have to make an excuse for. 71000 from MOK should be something a bit special. Im sure Ozzy would relish the prospect of getting his hands on both the Duke and a 9F. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 21, 2012 Author Share Posted August 21, 2012 I spoke to Dave about the deposit and he is not accepting them at the moment. Due to the sad death of his father a few of the new projects have been delayed. I know the 9F is the next kit to come out ( cant wait ) and that the Duke or Brit will probably follow. Ive got my name down for a Duke, Not exactly accurate for Ranelagh Bridge but this is one loco you have to make an excuse for. 71000 from MOK should be something a bit special. Im sure Ozzy would relish the prospect of getting his hands on both the Duke and a 9F. You bet. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 I've been trying to work out the angles and positions for the out rigger beams for the carrying wheels... Presumably, the axis of the carrying wheels would be on a line passing through the centre of the table. Wouln't this make an easier starting point than hoping that the angle on the drawing is correct? Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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